What is the concept of wave height in ocean forecast?

1, the wave height in ocean forecasting refers to the effective wave height, that is, the maximum wave height of 1/3 is averaged, and the wave height is defined as1l.

2. When the waves rush to the shore, on the one hand, energy is concentrated due to the shallower water depth, and on the other hand, energy is dissipated due to bottom friction. On shore, dissipation is generally greater than concentration; Moreover, most beaches are in the bay, and the refraction caused by the bay topography will further disperse the wave energy. In fact, the wave height seen by the naked eye is smaller than predicted.