Crossing Hoh Xil and being attacked by wild yaks, what else can you see besides Tibetan antelope?

"Hoh Xil" is Mongolian, which means "beautiful girl". It is a well-known but extremely mysterious and strange place. The geological movement hundreds of millions of years ago raised a brand-new highland to the top of the world, which is called the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the roof of the earth world. Because it is located in the alpine region, the climate is harsh, fresh water is scarce and vegetation is sparse, which is often called the forbidden area of human life. But for her aborigines-wild animals, this is their home, paradise and promised land.

Where is Hoh Xil?

For many years, the world only knows her name, legend and an epic heroic story, but few people know where she is. Hoh Xil belongs to Zhiduo County, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province. Connected with Qiangtang in Tibet and Altun Mountain in Xinjiang, it is one of the largest no-man's land in China. 1September, 1999, it was renamed as "Hoh Xil National Nature Reserve in Qinghai", with a total area of 45,000 square kilometers, with an average elevation of over 4,600 meters and the highest point of 6,860 meters. Hoh Xil Nature Reserve is one of the national nature reserves with the largest area, the highest altitude and the richest wildlife resources established in China. 201On July 7th, 7, Hoh Xil was approved to be included in the World Heritage List and became the 5th1World Heritage Site in China.

How to get to Hoh Xil?

Since1July 1992, Sonam Dajie organized the first armed anti-poaching team in China, the ecological situation of Hoh Xil has been gradually improved, and relevant departments at all levels have gradually promulgated laws and regulations to protect the ecological environment of Hoh Xil. Since 20 15, the Forest Public Security Bureau of the Hoh Xil Management Office has issued the Announcement on Prohibiting Illegal Crossing Activities in Hoh Xil Area, prohibiting all illegal crossing activities. In other words, not everyone can go to Hoh Xil, and illegal entry and crossing is absolutely forbidden. Any activity in Hoh Xil needs the approval of relevant departments. For the mysterious Hoh Xil, in fact, we will pass through the Hoh Xil buffer zone and some core areas to varying degrees on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway and Qinghai-Tibet Railway. On the way, we can enjoy the beautiful scenery and wildlife in Hoh Xil. It should be noted that you can't leave the highway and have any contact with wild animals when driving on the highway. If you are allowed to enter the hinterland of Hoh Xil for scientific investigation and ecological experience, you must not miss this very rare opportunity. If you can't get the approval, I'll show you what the real Hoh Xil looks like.

Be aware of something

To this end, I consulted a lot of information about Hoh Xil. Among the feature films, documentaries, articles and photos about this land, there is a film called Balance that deeply shocked me. There is no lyrical narration, no beautiful pictures, no exquisite special effects, and no movie stars to join. There are only records of what happened in this land, fearless soldiers, innocent creatures and rampant bandits. Let me stop this land and light the fire of defense.

People pay more and more attention to the importance of ecological stability in Hoh Xil. According to incomplete statistics, there are about 150 species of cushion plants in the world, including 50 species in Hoh Xil. There are 265,438+04 species of seed plants in Hoh Xil, of which 84 species are endemic to the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. It can be said that Hoh Xil is the last Eden of the plant family on earth. Apart from the plant family that grows here, she is not the last habitat of plateau animals. In this unique natural environment, there are many wild animals represented by Tibetan antelope, a plateau elf. 30 species of mammals, 54 species of birds and 6 species of fish thrive under the protection of snow-capped mountains and grasslands. In the natural law of "natural selection, survival of the fittest", Hoh Xil chose Tibetan antelope, which is the most representative species in Hoh Xil and has unique physiological habits and structure. Every Tibetan antelope embodies the survival code screened, tempered and condensed from the harsh land of Hoh Xil.

It's not just the animals and plants here that are precious. Hoh Xil has a typical and complete alpine ecosystem, including alpine meadow, alpine grassland, alpine swamp meadow, alpine sparse vegetation, alpine desert, alpine desert and other vegetation types. The vast swamp developed in permafrost and island permafrost is the highest and largest wetland in the world. Birds are soaring, horseshoes are galloping, and thousands of creatures have written the most thrilling life movement on earth in this ancient and wild land of Hoh Xil. It is precisely because of this that Hoh Xil has won the reputation of the gene bank of rare wild animals on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. This is an important area of biodiversity protection in China.

Arrive in Yushu

20 16. 12.6, I flew from Beijing to Yushu. I can't remember how many times I flew more than 2,500 kilometers. I have been deeply rooted in this place since 20 15. Many friends gave me a nickname "Yushu Little Prince". Although funny, it does confirm my deep feelings for this second hometown. When you breathe the thin but pure air from the plateau for the first time, when you are given the white Hada for the first time, when you hear the beautiful Kangba songs for the first time, when you taste the intoxicating highland barley wine for the first time, when you see the enthusiastic Kangba dance for the first time, you will definitely fall in love with Yushu, a plateau town with a brand-new look.

Besides the earthquake, Yushu has many places worth knowing. It is the first ethnic autonomous prefecture in Qinghai Province and the second in China. Yushu is the location of China No.51World Heritage Hoh Xil. Yushu is the location of the Yangtze River, the Yellow River and the Lancang River. Yushu is the birthplace of Kangba culture; Yushu is the location of Jade Everest, the highest peak in the east of Kunlun Mountain. Besides, numerous mountains and rivers, beautiful scenery and people, and long history and culture all make Yushu one of the most potential tourist destinations in the world.

Familiar streets, familiar cities, because I stopped in Xining and flew for a whole day. After dressing briefly, I attended the "Hoh Xil Scientific Research" work conference. For the first time, I personally listened to the experienced experts telling about Hoh Xil. Compared with consulting materials, such information is more stereoscopic and comprehensive. After explaining the current situation of Hoh Xil in detail, each group had a clear division of labor and knew the precautions, the first job of entering Hoh Xil was completed, and everyone returned to the hotel with incomparable enthusiasm and uncontrollable excitement. That kind of excitement that can't be calm for a long time actually made me lose sleep for the first time in this familiar plateau town.

Heroes' Square

20 16. 12.7. In the early morning, before the sun climbed the top of Yushu, people here came to King Gelsall Square early. The team includes staff of Yushu Tourism Bureau, experts from Chinese Academy of Sciences, scientists from Hengduan Mountain, patrol guards from Hoh Xil, documentary film crew, plateau emergency doctors, and logistics support team. , has also been assembled. The pilot car, pilot car, bus, security car and medical rescue car in the motorcade are also ready to go, and a solemn and simple ceremony is going on. After taking the solemn oath, with the attention of people in Yushu Prefecture and environmentalists, this expedition started from Yushu, passing through Zhiduo County, Qumalai County, Budongquan, Kunlun Mountain Emerald Everest, Sonandajie Protection Station, Xinsheng Lake, Kusai Lake, Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation Tibetan Antelope Gathering Lake and Sun Lake, and finally reached Bukadaban Peak, with a journey of 1000 kilometers.

There is a story about Hoh Xil, and perhaps the most well-known story is that Sonam triumphed in defending Hoh Xil and protecting Tibetan antelopes. It may take millions of years for Tibetan antelopes to evolve into unparalleled fur, which is the ultimate fur, the treasure of Tibetan antelopes' survival, but it has also become their death clothes. Under the gun of poachers, even though millions of years of natural deduction, evolutionary crystallization and interlocking survival rules are firm and clinking, they are pierced by cold bullets, leaving a taste of greed in the bullet hole, and the gun is heading for a bloody dusk. Only those who are selfish and profitable rush to prosperity, leaving behind this pool of disappearing humanity. The fate of every Tibetan antelope and other wild animals in Hoh Xil is closely related to the fate of this blue planet on which human beings depend, and also closely related to the fate of human beings themselves, but those poachers who are driven by interests don't care.

In Sonam's hometown-Zhiduo County, Yushu, Qinghai, there is a square called Hero Square. Here, the leaders of Zhiduo County personally told the story of Sonam Street. This is not only a hero's story, but also a microcosm of thousands of people in Qian Qian, Hoh Xil. Standing here, there is only awe. The promenade behind the sculpture of Heroes Square introduces the life story of Sister Sonam in detail.

His sacrifice shocked all walks of life at that time, and in this way, the protection and anti-poaching action of Hoh Xil got more help from manpower, material resources and financial resources. Today's Hoh Xil is more peaceful and peaceful. No more bloodthirsty killing by poachers, no more crazy digging by poachers for profiteering, no more diffuse smoke and heroes falling in a pool of blood.

Suonanda street protection station

20 16. 12.9, in the early morning of winter, Qumalai county was so cold that people shivered. After a day's rest, the players got up early to pack their bags. Hoh Xil is a no-man's land, and even at the corresponding protection station, there is still a shortage of materials. In order not to add extra burden to the patrol, all supplies for the next few days should be prepared here. The daily necessities such as vegetables, meat and drinking water purchased in advance, as well as oxygen, first-aid drugs and vehicle emergency tools, are filled with three logistics support vehicles. Going deep into Hoh Xil, you have to rely on yourself for food, clothing, housing and transportation, and tents and sleeping bags are also full of cars.

On the way to the first stop-Jade Everest and Kunlun Mountain, we passed the Sonam Victory Heroes Monument. The team members bowed in front of the portrait of the hero and presented Hada, which symbolizes auspiciousness, peace and sacredness. Teacher Han Mei is a team doctor and a classmate of the hero Sonam. Every time she comes here, she can't help crying. Sonam Dajie once 12 entered the no-man's land of Hoh Xil to investigate wildlife resources and protect Tibetan antelopes, and was praised as the first person to protect wildlife in Hoh Xil.

1994 65438+1October 18, 40-year-old sister Sonam and four team members were attacked by gangsters while escorting them to Sun Lake. When people found him in no man's land in Hoh Xil, he was still changing bullets. After the sacrifice of Sonam's elder sister, in August 1997, the memorial to the martyr of Sonam's elder sister was built at the expense of non-governmental environmentalists. The monument stands beside the Qinghai-Tibet Highway at Kunlun Mountain Pass in Hoh Xil Nature Reserve. The monument is 5.8 meters high, with a portrait of a martyr embedded in the front, and the life story of the martyr Sonam Dajie is described in Tibetan and Chinese on the back. 10 for more than 0 years, due to the change of frozen soil layer and earthquake, the monument tilted about 25 degrees to the south and sank about 20 cm, and the marble veneer on the guardrail fell off in many places. The new monument was completed in August 20 13, which is bigger and more magnificent. Passing cars either stop to pay tribute or honk their horns to pay tribute to the hero in their own way.

East of here 10 km is the highest peak in the east of Kunlun Mountain-Jade Everest. The vast area of Kunlun Shan Zhinan is the famous Hoh Xil. Arriving at the foot of Emerald Everest, I felt the smallness of people. The majestic Kunlun Mountain has always been a place with magical stories in the book, and now it stands in front of me, which makes people sigh! Sigh is the majestic figure of 6 178 meters, sigh is the great beauty of white snow, sigh is the spectacular glacier accumulated over the years, sigh is the obvious rising snow line and the traces left by the melting of this glacier. Looking back at Hoh Xil from the foot of Mount Qomolangma in Kunlun Mountain, it is a vast land, a brown land, revealing a mysterious land and a land full of unknowns.

At the eastern edge of Hoh Xil, 2952 kilometers south of Kunlun Mountain Pass, the Qinghai-Tibet Highway was originally just a place without a place name. It is located between the unfrozen spring and Wudaoliang on the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, near the Chuma River. Now, a new place name has been clearly marked on the map: Sonam Street Station.

From a distance, a light steel trailer similar to red and white, like a fairy tale, stands on the wasteland by the Chumar River. It is like a post on the plateau, announcing to the world the oath to defend the Hoh Xil Nature Reserve. On the roof, a row of Chinese characters "Sonam Dajie Protection Station" stands on the boundless wilderness like a martyr before his death, watching with deep affection and vigilance, without giving any lucky elements any chance. In recent years, with the efforts and help from all sides, Sonam Dajie Protection Station has been gradually expanded from a simple light steel structure mobile house to a brick house with relatively complete equipment, which can meet the daily work and life of patrol members.

That night, our team members worked and ate together, and there were not enough beds in the protection station, so we made a berth with some mats. Eating and living with teammates, although the conditions are slightly difficult, can better integrate into it and experience this different life.

The starry sky in Hoh Xil is bright. I've always been obsessed with shooting the stars. I refused to miss such a special night, but I was also told not to leave the gate of the protection station because there are often large wild animals here. It has become a good prospect for solar panels to be used for power generation in protection stations. When the night is deeper, the wolf howls in the distance and flies away in the vicinity. Crashing into the building, this night not only harvested a starry sky in Hoh Xil, but also made me more and more fascinated by it.

Meet the Tibetan antelope for the first time

2016.12.10, the team members got up very early, and everyone was full of energy. Although the altitude of Sonam Dajie Protection Station was nearly 4,500m, the train on the Qinghai-Tibet Railway passed through the Chaoyang in Ran Ran. The motorcade set foot on the real road of Hoh Xil from a fork in the road next to the protection station. When I first arrived in Hoh Xil, I had an inherent impression on it, and then I swept it away. Although it is winter and the meadow is yellow, this Cangshan Grand Garden is connected with towering snow-capped mountains, next to the purple-blue green lake, and there are beautiful scenery I have never seen before.

Hoh Xil, a beautiful girl, like her mother, has a broad mind and silently nurtures every living thing in her arms. As for me, I think he is a man, like a Kangba man with bare shoulders and unkempt hair. He is lofty and cold, with firm eyes. One arm holds up the world here. Every elf who walks quietly with plateau breath is in his solid mind, sheltering from the wind and rain.

Due to the unique geographical climate, it has become the largest no-man's land on earth except the polar regions. With the change of years and geology, hundreds of quiet lakes are scattered on her boundless skin like broken jade beads. In addition to the sound of wind and rain and snow falling, plateau elves such as wild yak, wild donkey, white-lipped deer and Tibetan antelope are her perennial companions. Since September, 2009, due to the change of ecological environment, the Tibetan antelope gathering lake in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation has continuously overflowed, flowing nearly 300 kilometers to the southeast, forming a river with a width of 30 meters to 50 meters and a depth of 20 meters to 30 meters, connecting the Tibetan antelope gathering in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation with Kusai Lake and Haiding Nuoer Lake in series. The overflowing lake has flooded nearly 100 small lakes, and now it has formed a newborn lake with an area of about 200 square kilometers.

On the way to the new lake, I saw the running Tibetan antelope for the first time, with an elf-like figure and beautiful flying posture, coming out of the long dust behind me. It was a free appearance, a natural appearance. If you have witnessed all this like me, you will believe that it can survive in this land for tens of millions of years because it belongs here. I picked up the camera, and the lens of 150-600mm was particularly heavy in front of the vigorous Tibetan antelope, as if the air had condensed at that moment, leaving only its trotting figure, my silent breathing and flashing shutter sound. Finally, I caught its intoxicating gesture.

The weather in Hoh Xil is complicated and changeable. Unexpectedly, we met with dusty weather, and there was no way out in the sand. For safety, we turned to Wudaoliang Protection Station for maintenance. The layout of Wudaoliang Protection Station and Sonanda Street Protection Station is almost the same. According to the staff of the protection station, it was later unified.

Sudden sandstorm

2016.12.11,Wudaoliang has another road leading to the gathering of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation, which is not so much a road as a rut mark left by the patrol line on the mountain beam. It seems that Hoh Xil in Ma Pingchuan is actually a dangerous place. At this time, winter is fine, where there is no desertification is frozen soil, and the traces left by cars in summer are still clearly visible. Most rivers have been frozen or exposed in the dry season, and only a few salt lakes are sparkling. Driving in Hoh Xil, it is easy to get lost without the guidance of experienced patrolmen. The safest way is to follow the rut marks.

The farther you go to the hinterland of Hoh Xil, the more you can meet groups of wild animals. Tibetan antelope is undoubtedly the owner here. From the initial three or two, four or five, up to now there are more than a dozen or twenty big teams running in front of us. Usually at this time, the Tibetan antelope team is often led by a ram, which is one of the signals of their reproduction.

June 5438+065438+ 10 is the mating season of Tibetan antelopes every year. At this time, you can see the male Tibetan antelope chasing the female Tibetan antelope. In April of the following year, pregnant Tibetan antelopes gathered from every corner of Sanjiangyuan, Qiangtang and Altun Mountain to Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation Tibetan Antelope Gathering Area in the hinterland of Hoh Xil Nature Reserve. This is a migration full of hope, a migration that cherishes life, and a tribute to this fertile land. At that time, the gathering place of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation became the big delivery room of Tibetan antelopes, where the climate was mild and the water plants were abundant.

Weak life seems to have tenacious power from the beginning. The migration journey is long, especially when crossing the Qinghai-Tibet Railway and Qinghai-Tibet Highway. Be alert, they are particularly sensitive to the roar of trains and full of fear of passing vehicles. Nowadays, whenever Tibetan antelopes cross the highway, there will be "life traffic lights" organized by volunteers, and passing vehicles are more and more actively cooperating with this action, so that Tibetan antelopes can safely migrate back to the gathering place of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation.

When we were about to arrive at the gathering place of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation, we encountered the worst weather during our trip. A chilling sandstorm blew towards the gathering direction of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation, which was the second time this trip encountered dusty weather. People can hardly stand outside the car, and the yellow sand is approaching them step by step. In a short time, the motorcade was swallowed up in the sandstorm, and the visibility was almost zero. The whistling wind outside the car body rolled up dust and slapped the window, and the instantaneous wind force made the stationary off-road vehicle shake the car body. Everyone fell silent, anxiously waiting for the guidance of the pilot car, and it was almost time to get to the destination. No one wanted to give up or look back.

Looking out of the window, I felt uneasy, watching the sand and stones flying out of the window pile up a small "sand dune" along the lower edge of the window glass. Finally, instructions came from the intercom. According to the expert's judgment, this sandstorm is directly related to the breach of the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation, so I decided to slow down and move on, so as to get ready for finding out the cause of this sandstorm as soon as possible. This time, as soon as the voice fell, I saw that the door of the pilot car was difficult to open in the strong wind and called us all to get off. We can see that when everyone is at a loss, the banner of this scientific research trip has been launched in the wind. Everyone knows that it is necessary to leave a photo of Zhang Zhengui in this rare sandstorm.

The sky is getting dark, and the motorcade that was originally blocked in the sandstorm will face difficulties again. After driving in a straight line for a long time, the pilot car suddenly turned 90 degrees and headed for the hillside, followed by the team. The sandstorm gradually became smaller and the sky gradually became clear. We successfully broke through the encirclement of sandstorm before sunset. Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation Tibetan Antelope Gathering Protection Station has a high terrain, from which you can clearly observe the gathering of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation, and it is in the gathering area of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation that a continuous sandstorm has formed.

The silver moonlight lit up Hoh Xil, and the wind stopped. After a hard day's work, the players unloaded their supplies and prepared dinner. Experts are analyzing the specific causes of sandstorms and the direction and route of inspection the next day. Limited conditions and lack of materials. No one cares about food and taste, and no one cares about whether the place where we live is comfortable. For our first visit to Hoh Xil, this is already very good, but we are not qualified to be picky in the face of patrols rooted here all the year round.

Fragile ecology

2016.12.12. In the days of nationwide online shopping, we were in Hoh Xil, a place without internet, with only this fragile ecology and many rare wild animals. Early in the morning, the expedition packed up and set off for the gathering place of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation. In winter, the surface of the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation has been covered with a thick layer of ice. Seen from the distance of the protection station, the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation is shining like a silver mirror.

Not far from the protection station, the motorcade stopped. Originally, it was the lakeside of the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation, but now it has become a bare sandy land because of the breach of the levee in the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation, which is also one of the main reasons for the formation of sandstorms in the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation. Moving on to the gathering place of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation, we can clearly see the traces of the land originally covered by lake water after being exposed to the air.

20 1 1 In the middle and late August and early September, the water level in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation Tibetan antelope gathering area in the hinterland of Hoh Xil rose rapidly, so that it burst on the east bank of the lake, and the overflowing flood rushed out of a deep and wide spillway ditch on the plateau and flowed into Kasai Lake. As a result, the area of Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation Tibetan antelope concentrated area has been reduced from 280 square kilometers to 168 square kilometers. From September 20th to 30th of that year, Lake Kousai overflowed and connected with Lake Haidingnole in the east. On the east side of Lake Haidingnole, there is also a small lake called "Salt Lake". Later, Lake Haidingnole flooded into the salt lake. The expanded salt lake shore is less than 8 kilometers away from the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, which is now the new lake.

The smoke rising in the distance caught our attention. At this time, Zhuonaihu Tibetan antelope gathering does not have the conditions to form sandstorms. It turned out that several male Tibetan antelopes were flying. In order to capture this wonderful picture, the camera had to follow them, and I had to admire the speed of the Tibetan antelope, which almost made people dizzy. 600mm lens, leaving their figure like a machine gun shutter.

Looking at the gathering of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation from a height, near 2 pm 10, the gathering lake of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation began to blow dust, and then dispersed eastward. As time goes on, the dust will get bigger and bigger, until sandstorms of different scales are formed and swept to the east of the Tibetan antelope gathering place in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation. The pilot team immediately decided to go down the mountain as soon as possible to investigate the breach of the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation.

After going down the mountain, there is a road to travel on the ice in the gathering place of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation. Only when I am above the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation can I feel how serious the breach of the dam has damaged the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation. The water level line on the shore was clearly visible, and the delivery room, which used to be rich in water and grass, is now devastated, which is regrettable. How to govern is a big problem. If the gathering of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation continues like this, we may never find the gathering of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation again, leaving only a "Zhuonai River". However, in Hoh Xil, any human intervention (digging a pit, repairing a dam and harnessing a river) is unnatural, and the result of such unnatural intervention is often uncontrollable.

In front of an east-west ravine with obvious scour marks, we saw the breach of the Tibetan antelope gathering area in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation. There is still a continuous outflow of lake water. Although it is winter, the lake flows down with the current, and under the action of extremely cold temperature, an ice waterfall with a drop of about two meters is formed, which is only the first level. A small lake is formed under the ice waterfall, which is also covered with uneven ice, and then a small waterfall with a higher drop flows down the new lake along the river channel that was hit by a huge amount of lake water when the dam broke.

As night fell, the Tibetan brothers in the room were humming songs from their hometown while cooking dinner, and the whole room hummed along. There is almost no sound outside the protection station. The vast Hoh Xil seems to be asleep. Unlike the quiet earth, the starry sky above is boiling. Although the moonlight is working, it is still as charming as an upside-down star bowl.

A thrilling scene

2016.12.13. The gathering survey of Tibetan antelopes in Zhuonaihu Tibetan Antelope Aggregation came to an end after obtaining sufficient samples and data information. The original planned trip to Sun Lake and Bukadaban Peak was also cancelled because the road was blocked when the pilot car explored the road. All the members are a little depressed, which means that the trip to explore Hoh Xil will end early. However, the camping plan that failed to be implemented earlier decided to be implemented tonight. Some people agree, others choose to quit. Naturally, I belong to the batch camp.

It is said that the return trip will appear faster than when you go, but this time it is particularly long. When the sandstorm comes, the rut is covered, and the leading car can only identify the direction through the traditional positioning method. Even after countless times, I still went the wrong way. I only saw herds of Tibetan antelopes when I came, and I was pleasantly surprised to harvest wild yaks, Tibetan donkeys and antelopes on my way back. Tibetan wild donkeys are probably the best wild animals in the whole Tibetan area. Because natural enemies are rarely killed, their numbers have been at a relatively high baseline. Gray fur is particularly beautiful against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains, grasslands and lakes. Just as I was leisurely shooting the scenery outside the window, a thrilling scene happened.

Maybe our motorcade accidentally invaded the territory of wild yak while looking for the route. Shortly after three escaped wild yaks disappeared from the horizon, the largest wild yak rushed straight for our motorcade. All vehicles immediately take emergency plans to avoid danger urgently. However, the tail car was stared at, and the patrolman commanded the action of the tail car, but the arrogant wild yak was adamant. After some wits and wits, I finally escaped the extremely lethal attack of wild yak.

Wild yaks are different from yaks raised by herders. They are cautious but fearless. Even if they are injured, they will not fall down. The patrolman said it was a special case, but it happened from time to time. Try to avoid it on the premise of protecting wild animals. If there is danger, you can take necessary measures. Fortunately, we escaped this angry wild yak, which also made us more cautious in the subsequent driving.

On 15 of the lunar calendar, the moon is the biggest and roundest day in every month. Today, the moon rises early and is bright. When the motorcade arrived near Wudaoliang, it found a good place to camp tonight in the lee. Tents are dotted with Hoh Xil in the moonlight. The green multifunctional tent has taken on the important task of the kitchen. At an altitude of more than 4,000 meters, it is MINUS 20 degrees, and the drinking water has been frozen together and thrown into the pot. Brown sugar, fermented grains and jiaozi are all slurping, sweet and waxy dinners.

This kind of experience may not be experienced by many people for a lifetime. When I lived in a tent, the temperature was as low as MINUS 30 degrees. The extremely cold weather has frosted the inside and outside of the tent. When I opened the thermos cup, even the inside of the bottle mouth was frozen. Fortunately, there are plenty of warm measures and the sleeping bag is warm. I closed my eyes but couldn't sleep. On my last night in Hoh Xil, I lost sleep, just like before I came.

Out of the tent, Yue Hui is flashing on the full moon night, and the starlight is like every night here. In just a few days, what I can write is only a small part of my experience. Those scenes and experiences that shocked me will accompany me for a lifetime.

From then on, Hoh Xil is not only a name, a place, but also a brand, an attachment, a shock and a rebirth for me. People in Vanity Fair pursue illusory success, and the prodigal son who travels all over the world just wants to be captured by beautiful scenery. But when you come to Hoh Xil, the greatness of life and the fragility of ecology are not far away from us, and are closely related to us. All irresponsible waste of resources and imbalance will be counterproductive and cause irreversible adverse effects on ourselves.