Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Weather forecast - The specific events of Qu.
The specific events of Qu.
According to the original plan, there should be 10 oxygen cylinders with a volume of 4 liters and a pressure of 170 when starting from the 8500m assault battalion. However, due to problems in transportation, two cylinders were found empty at the end of the inspection.
They estimated that either the transport team accidentally opened the valve switch on the road or accidentally carried the empty oxygen bottle back. Song's original task was to shoot a film from "Assault Camp" to "Step Two". Due to the lack of oxygen, it was temporarily decided that his task would be completed by Wang Fuzhou, and Qu would no longer act with the commandos. They spent the night by taking turns inhaling several oxygen bottles used during the day, which still had some pressure.
At 9 o'clock on May 24th, Xu Jing, Wang Fuzhou, Liu Lianman and Kampot climbed out of the tent in turn and set off with nylon ropes. Unexpectedly, just after going out, Xu Jing, the vice captain of the mountaineering team and the captain of the commando team, suddenly collapsed. It's a pity that we have lost the opportunity to hit the peak at such a height. Qu joined the commando team, and according to the established plan, Wang Fuzhou served as the captain of the commando team.
The commandos continued along the ridge. Give each of them two bottles of oxygen, which are wrapped in sleeping bags. One of the gas cylinders with regulator and mask was stuffed into the backpack together, leaving only the mask outside and stuffed in a small pocket next to the backpack for later use. In addition, each person has a pair of crampons and several steel cones. Wang Fuzhou also brought a movie camera, and Kampot brought a bust of Chairman Mao wrapped in a red flag and some film. Liu Lianman has an extra hammer in his backpack. The average negative weight of the four of them is about 14 kg.
At noon 12, they reached the split foot of the "second step". Two hours later, they came to a big stone at the end of the crack. This is where Shi Zhanchun and Wang Fengxiang dug the snow hole for the night.
On their right, stands a straight rock wall more than 4 meters high. They saw that there were no supporting points on the surface of the rock wall, only some small edges and corners, which could not be used for climbing. Although there are several cracks in the rock wall, they are only as wide as the thumb, and the distance between them is about 1.5 meters, which is not conducive to climbing.
Under the protection of Wang Fuzhou, Liu Lianman made two steel cones on the rock wall. Who knows that he fell down three times in a row while climbing. Kampot and Qu tried to climb twice and failed. Finally, Liu Lianman became the base of the ladder. Qu Yinhua took off his mountain boots, stepped on his shoulders and made several steel cones on the rock wall. After more than an hour, Qu climbed to the top of the "second step", which is the top of this rock wall. Kampot, Wang Fuzhou and Liu Lianman all boarded. It's already five o'clock in the afternoon. It took them seven hours to reach the top of the "second step" from the assault camp, three of which were spent on this rock wall more than 4 meters high.
After a short rest, they teamed up to move on. After walking through the gravel slope above the "second step", they set foot on a snow slope. At this time, Liu Lianman, who had been in the front for a long time, became more and more ill, and the mountain reaction became more and more serious. He fell down several times in a row. At an altitude of 8700 meters, he fell down again and could never get up again. Wang Fuzhou, Qu and Kampot placed Liu Lianman in an arc-shaped depression beside a big stone that was sheltered from the wind and would not be in danger of falling rocks, and prepared to take it away on the return trip.
At this time, there is not much oxygen left on them. They once wrote in their self-reports: "When starting from 8,500 meters and reaching the steep wall of the second step of 8,600 meters, everyone's oxygen bottle has only 40 to 50 pressures left. Because it takes too much effort to climb the two cylinders on the back, we still need to suck them when we return, so we decided to put the oxygen cylinder we used under the second step and suck the other cylinder forward. At about 8,700 meters (24th 19), everyone's oxygen pressure was only 40-50 (160 liters -200 liters), so Liu Lianman decided to stay and give him the rest of the oxygen, and the other three people moved on. "
At that time, it was about 19 o'clock. Moving on meant marching in the dark, which was unprecedented in mountaineering in China at that time. We can see why they made this decision:' When we held a meeting on May 24th 19 to discuss what action should be taken according to the situation at that time, everyone thought that although the weather would be late, considering that the original weather forecast was that the weather would get worse on the 25th, everyone's physical strength and the amount of oxygen left by everyone could not be delayed for too long, and the whole group did not carry camping equipment, and considering that the wind force at the peak time was generally smaller than during the day. More importantly, I thought of the party's instructions and the hopes of 600 million people, so I decided to go forward bravely, not to retreat, not to miss the opportunity, not to look back until I won the peak. "
When they reached the height of about 8750 meters, the afterglow of the sun had all disappeared, so they had to grope forward under the short starlight and snow light on the horizon according to the general route measured below and previous mountaineering experience. It goes without saying that marching at night is more difficult, and it is not easy to choose the good or bad route, so we have to climb again and again. If the road is blocked, find another place to climb. When climbing a steep rock slope, you can't see the support point, so you can only climb with your hands and feet and feel at any time. On the one hand, it is not easy to find a firm fixed point when carrying out up-and-down protection, on the other hand, it is difficult to see the specific movements and routes of the protected person, so it is easy to slip and be dangerous, and the rolling stones on it are invisible and hard to prevent, and it is not easy to find sliding tools and lost equipment.
When they reached an altitude of about 8800 meters, their oxygen was basically used up. Due to excessive fatigue, everyone has too little or no oxygen in the oxygen tank, so it doesn't work when used, and it doesn't work at all. At this height, we have to fight against the cold and complex and dangerous terrain, and we can only rely on the weak content of oxygen in the air to maintain our life activities. At this critical moment, they have to stand the test of life and death. They began an unprecedented arduous human climbing journey. They have the same belief: "only forward, not backward!" "
In the last journey, they didn't have any physical strength at all, and they just crawled forward. The three of them headed for the main peak, with Gong in the front and Wang and Qu in the back. As they approached the top of the mountain, they found a small peak. When Gong went up, they thought it was here. When the king went up the mountain, he saw another mountain nearby and went on.
The main peak is on the west side of the rock pile they climbed. They climbed this distance. At 4: 20 on May 25th, Beijing time, 1960, Wang Fuzhou, Qu and Gongbu climbed the summit of Mount Everest.
Their activities at the top of the mountain are recorded in many articles and materials. They climbed the main peak and looked up at their heads. There is no other way to climb except the night sky and shining stars. Kampot took out a five-star red flag and a bust of Mao Zedong from his backpack, wrapped them in flags and put them on the top of the mountain. Although Wang Fuzhou, Qu and Kampot brought cameras, because it was night, they couldn't photograph the world's highest peak and its activities. They stayed at the peak for about 15 minutes, and then began to descend.
When they reached the peak, they examined the oxygen cylinders in detail and found that two of them had no pressure at all, so they put them down at the peak, and the other one had only six pressures (24 liters to 28 liters). In order to prevent accidents on the way back, they carried the oxygen bottles that were running out on their backs. When they returned to about 8800 meters (6 o'clock on the 25th), all three people felt too tired and it was too difficult to breathe. So they divided a little oxygen in this tank and threw it away.
At this time, it was getting light, and they looked back and saw their footprints left by climbing the peak. Qu took out his portable movie camera and photographed this heroic feat and unforgettable moment.
They meet Liu Lianman at 8700 meters.
After Wang Fuzhou and other three people left, Liu Lianman slept behind Yan Li. At that time, according to his physical condition, he estimated that there was no possibility of survival. So he spent more than half an hour laboriously writing a short message to Wang Fuzhou in his diary with a red pencil:
Wang Fuzhou:
..... I know I can't. I think there is still some oxygen in the oxygen tank. It might be useful for you three to come back. Farewell! Comrades. Your Comrade Liu Lianman. 5.24。
After writing the letter, Liu Lianman fell asleep. Good quality training has created his strong physique, gradual adaptation to altitude hypoxia, strong willpower and the sleeping bag, which finally freed him from the clutches of death. When he woke up, he stood up again. Later, when he met Wang Fuzhou, Qu and Gong Bu, the first sentence was to let them suck the bottle of oxygen he left behind, and all three of them were moved to tears. Three people share the oxygen left by Liu Lianman.
When four people returned to the bottom of the rock wall at the top of the "second step", the weather changed, and there was heavy snow in the sky, so the visibility was very low and it was more difficult to walk. They found the remaining four unused oxygen cylinders before going up the mountain and took a deep breath. At that time, they emptied two cylinders and carried two cylinders, leaving little oxygen, just in case. At about 9 o'clock that night, they returned to the 8500-meter assault camp. Before the break, everyone used up the only dozens of liters of oxygen left in this mountaineering.
At the 8500-meter assault camp, they decided to go down the mountain in batches after deliberation. Kampot and Liu Lianman, who have good physical strength, hurried down the mountain in one day. On the one hand, they asked for help, on the other hand, there was news of victory. Kampot and Liu Lianman only ate a little food in the 8100m camp on the way, and then they arrived in Bei Le.
Wang Fuzhou and Qu arrived at the 6400-meter camp on the 27th and 28th.
On May 30th, Beijing time 13: 30, all members of the China mountaineering team who once lived on Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, returned to the base camp. Wang Fuzhou, Kampot and Qu walked at the front of the team.
They were warmly welcomed.
On June 1 day, a celebration party was held at the base camp. Xu Jing made a preliminary summary of this mountaineering activity at the meeting. On behalf of the mountaineering team, Xu Jing officially announced that in this mountaineering activity, * * * 53 members broke the highest record of 7556 meters for men's mountaineering in China, among which 28 members reached the height of 8 100 meters, accounting for 42.2% of the 69 members of mountaineering teams from all over the world who reached this height in the past 178. So many people reached this height in a mountaineering activity, which is unprecedented in the history of mountaineering in the world.
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