20 19-02-22 Pianma Town, western Yunnan

Starting from Nujiang Grand Canyon in western Yunnan and winding along Gaoligong Mountain, the altitude rises and the temperature drops sharply. After passing through Zhang Lu Town, Lushui County, it traveled about 30 kilometers to the northwest. Fog lock, cold wind and rain. In the dense fog, a majestic pass looms-"Snow Gate" stands proudly. Standing in the snow, the weather changes rapidly, which often makes people foggy. In the past, people who tried their best to go to the yamen had only one destination in mind-Pianma Town.

The fog in Gaoligong Mountain hangs over Pianma all the year round, making this town like an island floating on the clouds. Pianma borders Myanmar on three sides, only 200 kilometers away from Myitkyina, the capital of Kachin State in Myanmar, so the border trade has been very prosperous. As the main road of business communication, Pianma Port, the only provincial port open to the outside world in Nujiang Prefecture, Yunnan Province, is one of the important land passages open to Southeast Asia and South Asia in southwest China.

Border town mutual market is "a horse has never stopped since ancient times"

The word "Pianma" comes from Jingpo language, which means "a place where timber is piled up". Because Pianma is extremely rich in forest resources, it has been called Pianma Mountain since ancient times, especially famous for producing precious Chinese fir plates. "Wood is to a horse what blood is to the human body and air is to life". Pianma is an ordinary town in the southwest border, but it is a large timber distribution center. People use wood for trading, building houses, making furniture and heating, but sometimes, good wood is also used to level the foundation of houses, from the bottom of the valley to the roadside. No wonder there is a saying that the most valuable thing and the least valuable thing of a horse are wood.

The border trade of Pianma has a long history and has begun to take shape as early as 1648. At that time, local villagers cut down Taiwania flousiana, an ancient tree species with straight wood and gorgeous texture, and made it into fir boards or coffin boards.

Gaoligong Mountain is the westernmost mountain of Hengduan Mountains, which connects Qinghai-Tibet Plateau in the north and China-India Peninsula in the south. There are many kinds of animals and plants in the mountains all year round, which is known as the "world species gene bank" and the "world natural museum". Pianma is located in the hinterland of Nujiang Grand Canyon and Gaoligongshan Nature Reserve. Then walk for five or six days, cross the pass of Gaoligong Mountain, and transport it to Zhang Lu and Liuku in the Nujiang River Basin for sale. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, in order to further develop the wood resources of Pianma, the Tusi in Nujiang area organized migrant workers to renovate the ancient post road from Liuku to Pianma, and sent people to Pianma to collect cedar tax and land tax. From 19 10, mainland businessmen came one after another, set up plate purchasing stations in Pianma, bought them at low prices, and then hired porters to transport them to Liuku, Tengchong, Baoshan and Dali for high prices. 1911/In June, the British army illegally occupied the Pianma area, which once interrupted the operation of Chinese fir boards. War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression1May, 942, Japanese invaders invaded Pianma from Myanmar, and the management of old Chinese fir in this area ended.

However, because Pianma is located on the important channel leading to the outside world in Enmeikai River Basin, there is still some border trade in this area after 1949. 199 1, Pianma was designated as a provincial second-class open port by Yunnan Province. At the same time, Myanmar began to sell the local natural resources-virgin forests and mineral resources to China businessmen, and the Pianma economy flourished.

Since then, timber trade has gradually formed an industrial chain. At the top of this chain are bosses from all over China. They spent hundreds of thousands or even millions to buy the mining right of a virgin forest in Myanmar-locals call it "buying mountains", and then recruited loggers from Piama to mine in Myanmar. Every day, a wagon log is transported from Myanmar to Pianma, part of it is directly transported to the mainland from Pianma, and the other part enters various processing plants in Pianma to be processed into boards, squares or synthetic boards.

With the growing popularity of fir boards, the local transportation industry has also grown, and the garages that followed have mushroomed along expressway, which is very spectacular. In fact, these so-called repair shops are only workshops at best, but they dare to take almost any job-in their own words, "they can even modify a truck for you with used car parts." Even so, business is good.

At the end of the industrial chain are the transportation, catering and hotel industries that provide services for the floating population of more than 30 thousand people in Malaysia. When you come to Piama, newcomers will feel disorganized. Some of them are similar to the remote towns in the western United States in the movie, as if covered with a mysterious veil. When you enter the social life of Pianma, you will find that everything is so orderly under the maintenance of such an economic chain. A boss who has been engaged in local timber business for many years once described the prosperity of Pianma in the middle and late 1990s as follows: at the busiest time, the daily import and export volume of the bank reached 27 million yuan, which was called "Pianma Little Hong Kong". The accuracy of this figure can't be verified, but now walking on the streets that are biased towards horses, wood can still be seen everywhere, and thick logs are piled up on the roadside.

From the anti-British struggle to the hump crash, witness the bonfire years of Gaoligong Mountain.

Although Pianma is located in a remote place, it has experienced the years when China people fought against foreign aggression. 19111On October 4th, more than 2,000 British troops invaded Myanmar, creating the "Horse Incident". They invaded Pianma, built fortifications at the mouth of the snowstorm, and set up the "Great Qing Border" privately in an attempt to separate Pianma and its surrounding ancient waves and mountain houses from the Chinese territory.

In the face of the British invasion, the local ethnic minorities rose up and rebelled. Headed by Lisu Lemodopa, dressed in hemp fiber and armed with crossbows, poison swords and long knives, they formed a "hemp fiber soldier" and a "crossbow team". Coupled with the local toast in Nujiang, the soldiers were divided into three ways to ambush the invaders in the virgin forest. They are familiar with the local environment, set an ambush in advance, lead the enemy into the jungle, and shoot them from all directions with crossbows. On the front line of resisting horses, postal services and snowstorms, people had to fight to the death with the British army, with heavy casualties. At this time, the domestic people angrily denounced the aggressor's behavior, which eventually forced the British army to withdraw some soldiers. In order to commemorate this event, 1986, Pianma erected the Monument to the Victory of Pianma People's Anti-British War and established the Memorial Hall of Pianma People's Anti-British War.

Another incident happened in Pima, which was related to the hump route. 1996, a World War II hump crashed in C-53 of Piama primeval forest, causing a sensation. According to historical records, one morning in March of 1943, 1 1, the C-53 transport plane encountered a strong airflow while flying in a snowstorm. Unfortunately, it crashed in the vast forest of Changbai Mountain, and all the people on board were missing, including American pilot Jamie Foxx, China pilot Tan Xuan and Wang Guoliang. 1One day in June, 1996, a Burmese hunter was hunting in the no-man's land of the virgin forest and accidentally found the wreckage of a transport plane. It is officially confirmed that the plane crashed at the 98- 10 boundary pillar 137 meters (on the Chinese side) on the China-Myanmar border, which is the wreckage of the C-53 transport plane that has been missing for 53 years.

Because it is located at the border, the situation and environment are extremely complicated. In order to prevent the wreckage from being destroyed, the Lushui county government organized military and civilian guards day and night, which lasted 540 days. In Piama, we met Li who was involved in carrying the wreckage of the plane at that time. According to his memory, before the plan to carry the wreckage of the plane was determined, Qu Tiancheng, a young Nu, and a middle-aged man of about 40 years old were stationed in the mountains to guard. 1998 in winter, the snow seems to be heavier than in previous years. Before the snow closed the mountain, the middle-aged man went down to buy food. When he came back, the heavy snow had blocked the road and he couldn't get into the mountain. Qu Tiancheng, who was short of clothes and food, stood by the wreckage of the plane for more than two months and eventually died of hunger and cold at the age of 24. This era is also the era when Captain Jamie Foxx crashed.

Li said: "At that time, Piama sent more than 80 people up the mountain to carry the wreckage of the plane. In order to prevent it from being damaged, the handling team had to cut down all the trees along the way, pave the road with trees, and then use two pieces of wood as "rollers" Everyone pulled and lifted it, and moved it out of the mountain step by step. It's so hard! " In order to better protect the wreckage of the C-53 plane and commemorate this incident, in June, 2005, 165438+ 10, the only exhibition hall in China was completed, and the restoration of the wrecked site was also completed.

Today, the "AVIC C-53 Crash Site Monument" stands at the crash site of the C-53, with a height of 53 cm, representing that the C-53 plane has been buried at the top of Gaoligong Mountain for 53 years, with a bottom width of 46 cm, representing 460,000 people of all ethnic groups in Nujiang Prefecture, in order to commemorate the Chinese and American pilots who died heroically on the hump route.

The custom "Munao Zongge" of Jingpo people in Chashan and the New Rice Festival.

Pianma is a multi-ethnic town, where there are eight major ethnic groups, including Jingpo, Lisu, Han and Bai. The Chashan people here are the ancient indigenous people of Pianma and belong to a branch of Jingpo nationality. They have their own national language and unique customs, and don't use Jingpo language. There is no natural barrier between Pianma and the Myanmar border. It can be said that it is village to village, and the voice of chickens and dogs is endless. The two sides have been in contact for a long time and get along well. Historically, the transnational marriage of border people has never stopped. It is understood that among the 557 households in Pianma Town, 107 households are foreign-related marriages between China and Myanmar. Although they come from two different countries, both husband and wife are from Chashan, with the same language and living habits.

Chashan people have a special ceremony of building houses and entering new houses. Whenever someone builds a house in the village, the whole village will take the initiative to help. Building a house usually breaks ground in the morning, completes the roof truss in the morning, builds the roof at noon and decorates it in the afternoon. In the evening, the new house was completed. After the new house was built, the owner took out a gunpowder gun and shot it in the air. When the villagers heard the gunshots, they came to congratulate them. The host led the whole family to line up in front of the new house to meet the guests who arrived slowly. The host respects the guests with grass smoke, and the hostess respects the guests with a golden bamboo tube. The singer in the hut, with drums on his back and gongs in his hand, is dancing an ancient dance. Hunters lined up at the edge of the new house, holding high powder guns and firing into the air. After that, the guests walked into the new house accompanied by the host, sat around the fireplace, singing and dancing until late at night.

More lively than building a new house is the biggest traditional festival of Jingpo people-Munao Zongge Festival. "Munao" is Jingpo, "Zongge" is in Wa, and "Munao Zongge" means "Let's dance together". Every year around the fifteenth day of the first month, Jingpo ethnic villages, men, women and children, dressed in gorgeous national costumes, flock together, beating gongs and drums, and happily gather in the vertical singing field. They formed two big dance teams, one with thousands of people and the other with tens of thousands of people, so "Munao Zongge" is also called "Dance of Ten Thousand People".

On the day of the festival, people beat gongs and drums and stepped onto the dance floor, facing the east in tune with ancient songs. A man holds a long knife with the blade facing left and the knife facing forward, but the knife can't shake; Women flapped around with branches, flowers or fans in their hands, and the dancers were completely immersed in a kind of intoxication and ecstasy, and could not help singing cheers like "Oh ~ Run, Oh Run, Oh Run ~". The dance route of "Munao Zongge" follows a specific pattern. In the process of dancing, according to the width of the venue, from time to time interspersed with encirclement, advance and retreat orderly, uniform, the team must not be scattered, chaotic. The melody of Munao Zongge is powerful and the beat is clear. Some people say, "When you hear the drums and music of Munao's chant, you itch to rub the ground if you don't jump."

October 15th of the lunar calendar is the New Rice Festival of Pianmacha Mountain people every year. After the autumn harvest comes home every year, the new grain will not be officially enjoyed until after the New Rice Festival. On the day of the festival, every household in Chashan slaughtered pigs and sheep, cooked new rice, served wine and rice, and offered sacrifices to gods, ancestors and iron triangles (utensils for cooking, stewing and burning tea on the fireplace). During the sacrifice, gunpowder was set off outside the house to celebrate. From this day on, for five or six consecutive days, relatives and friends took turns to treat people to drink, taste new rice and share the fruits of a year's labor. During the dinner, the host and guest exchanged production techniques, and the elders told their traditional customs to the younger generation. In case of poor harvest, relatives and friends will give them 10 ~ 15 Jin of new grain or other grain during the New Rice Festival to share the warmth and happiness of the festival.