Explore Yunlong and visit Tusi New Town.

The dawn in western Hubei is at least 1 hour later than that in the northeast. It's half past five, and the genius begins to shine. In the mountains in the early morning, birds are singing and insects are singing, flowers are rolling and clouds are shu, and water is gurgling. Walking in such a quiet environment and breathing clean and dust-free air is really intoxicating.

The last day of Enshi's trip was Yunlong Rift Valley and Tusi City. Yunlong Ground Fissure Scenic Area is very close to our hotel, which takes more than 20 minutes by car.

Ground fissures are very similar to canyons in shape, but the causes are different. The former is cut by water flow, and the latter is obtained by geological changes. The formation of ground fissures in Yunlong is quite special, with some characteristics of canyons and ground fissures. According to geological and archaeological data, the Yunlong Rift was formed at least 50 million years ago, but at that time the ground was seamless, that is, it was a hidden seam. As a section of Yunlong River, this hidden seam has been quietly flowing underground for 20 to 30 million years. Later, due to the intense erosion of groundwater and the continuous erosion of the surface, the top of the underground river gradually collapsed, and the hidden cracks became open cracks, showing today's state.

Yunlong ground fissure is about 3.6km long, 75m deep and15m wide. There are seven four-season waterfalls and 1 seasonal intermittent waterfalls, which are known as "the most beautiful scars on earth". China is rich in ground fissures and sinkholes, mainly distributed in Chongqing, Guizhou, Hubei, Yunnan and other provinces and cities.

It was sultry that day, and it was only a short distance from the ticket gate of the scenic spot to the entrance of the ground fissure. Everyone was already sweating. However, when we walked down the stone steps and approached the bottom of the ground fissure, cold air came and the temperature dropped rapidly. Those tourists who just complained about wearing too many clothes all praised them as "far-sighted"

The temperature in the ground fissure is not only low, but also the humidity is almost saturated, and the rock wall and air are wet. According to the tour guide, Yunlong ground fissure is the only ground fissure in the world with different geological ages on both sides. Its right bank is Triassic strata formed 65.438+0.8 billion to 230 million years ago, and its left bank is Permian strata formed 250 million to 280 million years ago. In other words, the stone walls on both sides of the strait are hundreds of millions of years old!

Compared with the human history of only a few hundred thousand years, what a long history these rocks have experienced! Apart from rocks, waterfalls are the biggest scenery in the ground fissures. The special geological environment determines that the waterfalls here are mostly of the same shape, with little personality, more turbulence and less charm.

At present, only 1.6 km of the 3.6 km Yunlong ground fissure has been developed, and the remaining 2 km are under development as the second phase project. On the way to the scenic spot, the tour guide repeatedly reminded everyone that after the first 1.6 km, the tour ended and everyone returned to the parking lot by themselves. After walking 1.6 km, I found that the tour guide had been waiting in front to remind the group members who came one after another to turn back. I am the most disciplined person. Although I saw some scenery ahead, I did not hesitate to call my wife and daughter back to the parking lot.

Ten minutes after the assembly time, seven or eight people in the group didn't come back. The tour guide kept calling them, but the feedback on the other end of the phone seemed to say that they were still in the scenic spot. How can it take so long to swim a little over two kilometers? Moreover, it is in a scenic spot like Yunlong Sewing, and there is nothing to see. An hour and a half later, the waiting continued, and some tourists who had to catch the train in the afternoon began to show anger, accusing these people of having a good time and ignoring others' waiting. The guide finally got angry, too. He told the tourists that the bus would not wait for them, and they would find a car to go back to Enshi.

At lunch, my daughter found that several members of the left-behind group also quietly leaned in for dinner. Later, I learned that these people belonged to a big family, and they deliberately stayed to see the last 2 kilometers of Yunlong Rift Valley. Those who ignore the basic rules of group tours and like to go their own way suggest not to participate in group tours, but to organize their own free travel.

These people's delay of one and a half hours directly led to a visit to Tusi City in the afternoon.

Enshi tusi castle, located in Enshi City, covers an area of about 300 mu, mainly including the gatehouse, Moon Lake, Yufeng Bridge, Lin Jun Temple, school yard, Tujia folk houses, Jin Jiu Hall of Tusi Palace, city wall, bell tower, drum tower, Baihua Garden, white tiger statue, Crouching Tiger Iron Bridge, Tingtao Teahouse, national art garden and other landscapes. Tusi City is a new antique, not a historical site. Planned and prepared by Enshi Ethnic Affairs Committee 1998, it was completed to receive tourists in 2002.

The main gate building of Tusi City is 25 meters high and seven rooms wide, with four floors and four cornices, and the top floor is a cross ridge. The whole building is made of wood, with Liang Shi Gate on the ground floor and Shiyue Gate on the second floor. The "enshi tusi castle" plaque on the lintel of the Ming Dynasty was inscribed by the famous sociologist Mr. Fei Xiaotong; There is a link on the door: the scenery of a westward journey; The first city in Central China; Two red painted doors are embedded with deep relief painted door gods.

door-god

Queti with Tujia characteristics

Entering the door, on the left wall is a bas-relief "The Tusi of Shizhou in the Spring and Autumn Period", which depicts that in history, the Ming Emperor gave the word Tusi of Shizhou and the Tusi of Tangya built the city; The soldiers fought against Japan, and Spyker and his son made outstanding achievements; Ancient talents entered the mountains, and the ancient Taoyuan became famous in China. Poems are collected into books, and Tian poets leave treasures; Out of the mountain, traveling west for thousands of miles to worship Emei; The five banners were judged by the gods, and the toast laws were strict; Shunnian went to Beijing to make the toast respect Kangxi and other important events. Among them, the anti-Japanese historical fact, which is known as "the first meritorious service in Southeast China", is a glorious page in Tujia history. Rongmei Tusi is a hereditary member of the Tian family, occupying a dominant position in Enshi in history, which makes the court dare not underestimate. Even at the end of the gradual decline of the chieftain system, Yong Zhengdi still thought: "Among all the chieftains in Chu and Shu, Rong Mei is the most prosperous." .

On the back of the gatehouse, there is a plaque "Mo Chong Lou" hanging on the lintel of the Ming room. In Tujia language, "ink" means "heaven" and "rush" means "connection", so "ink rush" means connection with heaven. In many articles about tourism in enshi tusi castle, the traditional Chinese character "Chong" is recognized as the traditional Chinese character "Wei".

Go on, you can see the sculpture of "Tiger Button". "Tiger Button" is a military musical instrument used by the Ba people of Tujia ancestors. Ba people are still tigers, so they decorate their fun with tiger buckles.

After the "Tiger Buckle" sculpture, the Moon Lake is in the shape of a curved ruler. There is a double pavilion covered bridge on the Moon Lake, which is called "Wind and Rain Bridge". The emergence of Dong-style covered bridges in places where Tujia people live in compact communities stems from the plundering of Dong population in neighboring Hunan, Guizhou and Guizhou by Tujia people at that time. The forced migration of Dong people brought Dong architecture including covered bridges into Tujia life.

After the "Tiger Buckle" sculpture, the Moon Lake is in the shape of a curved ruler. There is a double pavilion covered bridge on the Moon Lake, which is called "Wind and Rain Bridge". The emergence of Dong-style covered bridges in places where Tujia people live in compact communities stems from the plundering of Dong population in neighboring Hunan, Guizhou and Guizhou by Tujia people at that time. The forced migration of Dong people brought Dong architecture including covered bridges into Tujia life. Southbound along the shore of the lake, there is a quadrangular pyramid-shaped roof pavilion on the stone platform on the other side, the amount of which is "Zizhi Pavilion". Pavilion couplet "mountains and mountains can be painted, sitting on the piano for three lanes;" Tian Shunnian, son of Rongmei Tusi Tian Ganlin, wrote the fifth poem "Mountain Residence". Historically, from the 18th year of Qing Emperor Kangxi (1689), Tian Shunnian compiled the poems of nine poets in the five dynasties from Jiajing of Ming Dynasty to Kangxi of Qing Dynasty, including Zi Zhi Ting Poem by Tian Jiuling, Chu Sao Ting Poem by Tian and Xiubitang Poem by Tian Xuan.

The "Clear Water Pavilion" next to Zizhi Pavilion has evolved into a small shop selling tourist souvenirs. I didn't want to go in, so I turned to see Lin Jun Temple.

"Lin Jun Temple" is located on the hillside on the left side of the tourist road, where Tujia people worship their ancestors "Lin Jun". Lin Jun Temple has three entrances, which are built on the mountain. The first entrance is also the hall, with three rooms wide and double eaves and gray tiles. The forehead of the hall is "Lin Jun Hall", and there is even a "white tiger showing its glory to future generations; The reason of Salt god's beautiful rhyme enlightenment ". The "White Tiger" here refers to "Lin Jun" and "Salt god" refers to his wife, the goddess of salt water. There is a stone tablet with a round forehead in the hall, which is engraved with the official script "Lin Jun's Sacrifice". The wall behind the stone tablet is inlaid with white tiger relief.

The second hall is also three rooms, hanging on the top of the mountain. The forehead of the temple is "cautiously pursuing the distance", and the temple is connected with "the five surnames form an alliance to cut thorns and cut through thorns and thorns in Ye Wei; Century * * * Yang Li's masterpiece "Romantic New Beginnings". There are murals painted on the four walls of the temple, which vividly reproduce the great achievements of Lin Jun's life.

On the left side of the second courtyard, there is a temple named "Deji Hall", which is dedicated to the goddess of salt water. Temple lotus "Ze and mountains and rivers chase the temple far away today;" When will Lian Sang Zi come back? "The Tujia people deeply miss the great woman, the goddess of salt water.

The third entrance is the main hall of the whole temple, with three rooms wide and double eaves and cross ridges. Plaques of "Zude Zhao Chang" and "Lin Jun Temple" are hung under the eaves, and the temple is connected with the "Iron Sword" to show the year of Yuan Kun; Earth ships ride huge waves and build mountains and rivers. "There is a gilded statue in the main wall of the temple, and there are portraits of Xiang, Qin, Fan and Zheng leaders allied with Lin Jun on both sides. There is a" Thousand Peaks Fighting for Life "in the temple; The white tiger mountain is thousands of years old. "

On the left side of the main hall, there is a plaque of "Fo Dao Tang" dedicated to many gods, which shows the ideological influence of Buddhism and Taoism, two non-Tujia native religions, on Tujia people. When I came out of Linjun Temple, I thought there was something wrong with its plaque. I should replace the plaque of Lin Jun Temple in the main hall with the plaque of Lin Jun Temple in the gatehouse.

After walking 100 meters in the scorching sun and hot air, I finally came to the most important and worth seeing landscape "Golden Nine Halls" in Tusi City today. Jiujin Hall is the common name of toast Wang Fu, with a building area of more than 4,300 square meters. It is a vertical platform progressive layout, and it is the stilt architectural style of Tujia nationality, named after the front and back nine courtyards. Most of the main buildings of Jiujintang are new works, but all carved doors and windows are taken from the people, which can be called "new works of historic sites".

Tusi system is a political management system implemented by the Central Plains Dynasty in the history of China in ethnic minority areas. Tusi paid tribute to the Central Plains Dynasty and Tusi areas enjoyed a high degree of autonomy. The Tusi system in Tujia areas began in Yuan Dynasty and ended in the 13th year of Yongzheng in Qing Dynasty (1735). It lasted for more than 450 years in Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties.

The first entrance of Jiujintang was built on the stone abutment, which is a typical Tujia style, with red walls and gray tiles, white ornamentation and magnificent momentum. The main entrance, also known as "Humen", is the wall door of Shifang, on which there is a couplet: "Qingjiang nine schools are connected, and the white tiger lives for thousands of years." The "Ganmen" and "Kunmen" on both sides, also known as "Crying Gate" and "Laughing Gate", were used for weddings and funerals respectively, expressing Tujia people's open-minded view of life and death. Before Baoxia came out of Humen, two golden dragons were placed on the eaves of Baoxia. There is a book-like relief on the upper wall of Baoxia, and the patterns are swords and plows, which embodies the Tujia people's thought of attaching importance to literature, martial arts and intensive cultivation.

On the single stone step, there is a "Dragon and Phoenix" relief pattern. Two white tiger statues stood in front of the steps, grinning horribly. Despite the strong Tujia style, China cultural elements such as dragons and phoenixes are still popular in the Central Plains, reflecting the integration of national cultures. On both sides of the gate are the four Tujia gods carved on the cliff, which are lifelike and imposing.

On the west side of the gate, there is a place called "Lu Lu badminton". I didn't know until I read the instructions that this is the family study of the toast, which is where the children of the toast study. This school reserved a hole for the statue of Old Master Q.

The second entrance and the third entrance are two-story pavilions on the high floor, which are used as theaters and stands. There will be Tujia song and dance performances at regular intervals every day. We have no time to wait, so we have to get there quickly.

The fourth entrance is the "Use Hall", which is the place where Tusi and his subordinates discuss military and political affairs, and it is also the core part of the whole Jin Jiu Hall. This temple has built-in console tables and rituals.

Above the "White Tiger Mountain Map" on the wall of Taishi, there is a plaque of "People love things", and there is a couplet on the column: "Brainstorm ideas and elaborate fantastic ideas; Enlighten and plan well. "

On the walls of the two mountains, portraits of chiefs of past dynasties are hung.

4. Entering the "Wave Hall" with a 50-fold cornice at the round bottom coincides with the natural concept of Tujia people's round place and the national character of being soft outside and rigid inside. Handcranking Hall is a place where Tujia people worship their ancestors from the first day of the first month to the fifteenth day of the first month every year. Statues and stone tablets of ancestors are enshrined in the hall.

The fifth step is to enter the gatehouse of Houmanor, also called "Slotted Gate".

Through the "slot door" is the sixth entrance of the front hall. At the entrance of the platform, there is a plaque of "Kissing the Sage", on which there is a couplet: "Accumulate jade and pile up gold hall; Not extravagant, frugal, and glowing in my heart. " This is where the host welcomes the guests. The seventh and eighth steps are nave, which is connected with the sixth step. Master is mainly used to deal with clan affairs.

The ninth entrance is the backyard, also called "White Tiger Hall" and "Jabba Building", which is the residence of the toast couple, similar to the harem of the emperor of the Central Plains. Jabba means "noble" in Tujia dialect. Jabba Tower is four stories high, with a regular triangle as a whole, which is the highest point in Jin Jiu.

The "Jingsi Hall" at the bottom is dedicated to three ancestors.

There are four words on the wall: forbearance, modesty, diligence and sincerity.

On the second floor is the "Ningxin Palace", which is the bedroom of the toast couple. The "Wu Ceju" on the third floor is the "office" of the toaster. The fourth floor, the highest place, is the place where toasts think and deal with top-secret government affairs.

Around the whole Jin Jiu Hall, there are walls and enemy towers to protect the safety of the toast and his family.

The trip to Tusi City was carried out in tense and hot weather. The high temperature weather caused by too dense buildings and the air in the Golden Nine Halls made me sweat, and my whole body was like water washing.

Although it is a newly-built "historic site", the relevant parties in Enshi are still very serious about the construction of Tusi City, and have indeed made a lot of efforts in design, construction and decoration. After more than ten years of wind and rain, this new Tusi city has shown a certain sense of vicissitudes and history, which is "enough" to confuse the truth to some extent.

Enshi is a beautiful place, and its isolation and underdevelopment may be the most important reason why it still maintains its original landscape today. The people of Enshi have taken the first successful step on the road of turning green mountains and green hills into Jinshan Yinshan, and sincerely wish Enshi a better tomorrow.