The causes and rejuvenation methods of autumn bulb flowers

In general gardening, bulb flowers are divided into spring planting and autumn planting in terms of planting time. Before planting bulbs, you must first distinguish their temperature requirements, that is, you must know whether you are planting bulbs in spring or autumn. Plant bulbs in spring, such as amaryllis and Tangchangbo, which require high temperatures during the growth period, so plant them in spring and bloom in spring and summer. As the temperature drops in winter, the above-ground parts turn yellow and gradually enter dormancy. For northern my country, the cold winter temperatures are often minus 5 degrees or even lower. The underground bulbs cannot withstand such low temperatures and need to be dug out and stored to protect them through the winter. Plant bulb flowers in autumn, such as tulips, hyacinths, etc., which are resistant to cold and heat. Plant in autumn, when the temperature rises in early spring of the following year, it will grow rapidly and bloom in spring. When the temperature is high in summer, the above-ground parts wilt, and the underground bulbs go dormant in summer. If the planting time of the two is wrong, it will inevitably lead to cultivation failure. Common bulbs planted in autumn include tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, snowflakes, iris, freesia, dieffenbachia, saffron, hyacinth grapes, etc. Some lilies are special. Although they are also autumn bulb lilies, their origins are too complicated. They mainly include: Asiatic lily, musk lily, musk Asia hybrid lily, and oriental lily. These different lilies are also very different in their habits. Many lily varieties only bloom in summer under natural conditions. They are too different from other autumn bulbs to be discussed together. In home planting, bulbs often degenerate due to various reasons, causing the bulbs to fail to bloom the next year, or the bulbs become smaller year by year, thus losing their planting value. To rejuvenate the bulbs, we must first understand the various causes of bulb degradation, and start from this aspect to find ways and means to solve the problem. Below, we will analyze these common problems and causes one by one, and find solutions accordingly. 1. When planting potted plants closely, in order to pursue beauty, the balls are often planted in small containers or planted densely. We know that before harvesting, commercial bulbs were originally cultivated in the field. Their roots are deep and long, especially the daffodils of the Amaryllidaceae family and the hyacinths of the Liliaceae family, which have long and developed roots. Forcing them to be artificially planted in smaller containers, the bulbs can produce good flowers by consuming their own nutrients as long as they are large enough. In this case, if you plan to do a one-time culture from the beginning, you can discard the bulbs after flowering. However, many flower lovers want their flowers to bloom year after year. If this is the latter option, choose a roomy and comfortable container for your bulbs to allow their roots to spread out. However, the individual bulbs planted in large deep pots are disproportionate, so it is best to choose large pots for group planting. For example, 4-5 narcissus balls with a ball circumference of about 14 minutes can be planted in a pot with a diameter of 25 cm and a depth of no less than 20 cm. Soil temperature changes are less in large containers than in small containers. For some bulb plants whose root systems are particularly sensitive to temperature, such as tulips, saffron, etc., small changes in soil temperature can extend the growth period of the bulbs and provide necessary time for the accumulation of more nutrients. When the volume of the container reaches a certain level, it can approach the effect of planting on the ground. Generally speaking, planting in large containers is more conducive to rejuvenation than planting in small containers. Planting in groups of large containers is more conducive to rejuvenation than planting single plants in small containers. Planting on the ground is more conducive to rejuvenation than planting in pots. 2. Hydroponics is purely a one-time culture from the beginning, and there should be no thoughts of rejuvenation. If you really can’t bear to throw them away after flowering, then find a piece of land to plant them! 3. Time and temperature We know that bulbs planted in autumn generally have a vernalization process. That is, the time process of rooting at low temperature and breaking dormancy. This process usually lasts 2-4 months. However, the habits of planting bulbs in autumn are different, and the corresponding weather temperature should be selected to determine the planting time. In the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, during the Mid-Autumn Festival in September

At the autumnal equinox in late September, the temperature drops to 18-20 degrees, and the roots of narcissus, lilac, and bulbil iris also wake up, so it must be done in early October. Plant in mid-season. In mid-to-late October, when the temperature is below 18 degrees, plant hyacinth, Dieffenbachia, and saffron. Plant tulips in early November when the temperature is below 15 degrees. What needs special attention here is that due to the great climate difference between the north and the south of my country, the planting time should pay attention to the local weather forecast and determine the corresponding time based on the temperature, rather than following a dogmatic script. 4. Root system and cultivation depth When planting bulbs in autumn, the root system is one-time for one generation and cannot be repaired once damaged. Therefore, during planting, be sure to plant once and avoid transplanting. In addition, in terms of planting depth, potted plants cannot be planted too deep due to limited conditions. Generally, depending on the size of the ball, hyacinths, daffodils, and snowflowers can be covered with soil to the top buds of the ball, with the top buds slightly exposed above the soil. Dieffenbachia, saffron and hyacinth grape bulbs are relatively small and should be covered with 2-3cm of soil. Bulb iris, tulips, freesia and other plants are tall and thin and should be covered with 5cm of soil. If planted in the ground, hyacinths, daffodils and snowdrops will be covered by 5 cm of soil, and bulbil iris, tulips and freesias by 10 cm. 5. Natural bulbs and foster cultivation. Because bulbs planted in autumn have the characteristic of breaking dormancy at low temperatures, they can be artificially refrigerated for a period of time and can germinate and bloom quickly after planting without the need for natural low temperature accumulation. This method is forced cultivation. On the contrary, the bulbs that have broken dormancy have not been artificially refrigerated, but have been accumulated at natural seasonal low temperatures and are called natural bulbs. Promote artificial simulation of natural low-temperature cultivation. Professional cultivation, put into planting immediately after refrigeration, and provide suitable temperature on a large scale. These ordinary gardeners can't do it.

Moreover, from cold storage to retail and then to consumers, bulbs have to undergo a temperature change and are likely to encounter high temperatures. At this time, some types of balls have begun to take root and sprout, so they will inevitably be damaged. So we'd better try to buy natural balls, which are safer. In addition, low temperatures have a number of other effects on bulbs: daffodils, snowdrops, hyacinths and saffron. Cold treatment will cause their plants to become shorter and more compact. 6. Water and soil. Bulbs planted in autumn prefer soil that is loose, breathable, well-drained, low in salt, and neutral in acid and alkali. It is recommended to plant in humus soil. Be sure to prevent water accumulation when planting bulbs, especially if you like to use trays for potting. The tray should be kept dry and no water should accumulate inside. This will not only make the pot too wet and airtight, but also breed diseases. The choice of pots is also breathable purple clay pots and clay pots. The hole in the bottom of the plastic basin should be large enough; porcelain basins are generally not used. 7. Light and Humidity Bulbs planted in autumn tend to grow in the sparse shade of tall deciduous trees. Simulating the light changes and humidity of this state is our direction. When autumn and winter come, the leaves of the trees are falling, and the open spaces in the forest are sunny. Therefore, at this stage, the bulbs planted in autumn should be given sufficient sunlight. The fallen leaves at this stage will keep you warm and moisturized. Come spring, the bulbs growing underground will sprout and bloom before the leaves sprout. In April, when the trees are growing in the shade, the flowers of the bulbs have begun to fade, and the shade provides a cooler environment for the bulbs. At this stage, artificial cultivation should also provide a cool environment for the bulbs, with bright light but no direct sunlight.

8. Fertilizers and nutrients