M56 "White Bone Road" Crossing (5)-Ba

Due to some unexpected things, I can't go back as planned, so I have to fly back. There is no direct flight ticket yet, so we can only buy tickets for August 1. The next main task is to repair the vehicle and look around again!

Goodbye, Magadan, we will meet again! The road is under your feet!

Foreign articles:

Towns and villages that this road passes through: Yakutsk, Handega, Oymyakon, Ustinara, Susuman and Magadan.

Yakutsk: (Russian: якутск) is the capital of Sakha * * * in Russia, located on the west bank of the Lena River, with a population of less than 300,000.

Yakutsk was founded in 1632, when it was just a frontier fortress built by Cossacks. However, with the discovery of a large number of gold mines and other veins between 1880s and 1890s, the population of Yakutsk increased greatly with the mining population.

Yakutsk is one of the coldest cities in the world, with a sub-frigid coniferous forest climate. It's very cold in winter. In 65438+ 10, the monthly average temperature is close to -40℃, the lowest temperature can be reduced below -60℃, and the extreme lowest temperature is-64.4℃. In summer, the weather is generally cool, and the maximum temperature generally does not exceed 30℃, but sometimes the temperature can be as high as 35-38℃, the extreme maximum temperature is 38.4℃, and the annual absolute temperature is 102.8℃. It is the city with the largest annual range in the world and the climate is quite extreme. Mammoths were dug up here.

Handega: (Russian: хандыга) is 450km away from Yakutsk, on the right bank of Aldan (алдан) with a population of less than 7,000.

Oymyakon: (Russian: оймякон), a village in the northeast of Siberia, Russia, belongs to the Republic of Sakha. Oymyakon is located in the mountainous area of eastern Siberia, in the middle of the basin of the same name on the upper reaches of the Indigilka River, with an altitude of about 750 meters. It is famous for the lowest temperature in human settlements. Saha has about 500 residents, mainly raising cows and reindeer. Oymyakon comes from Yakutia, which means "unfrozen water" and refers to the hot springs near the village. North latitude 63 27' 00 east longitude142 47' 00, the latitude is not very high, but because it is surrounded by mountains on three sides, it is horseshoe-shaped, and the only opening faces north, so cold air cannot enter, so the temperature in winter is extremely low. It gradually developed into a village in the 1920s and 1930s.

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The "world cold pole" once set a limit temperature of minus 7 1 degree. The coldest human settlement on earth.

1926 65438+1On October 26th, the lowest temperature measured in Oymyakon, Siberia was -7 1.2, so Oymyakon was awarded the title of "World Cold Pole". The villagers here live in ice and snow all the year round.

Because the environment is extremely cold, if you don't take any protective measures outdoors, your face may be frostbitten or even blown up by the wind in a few seconds. Breathing outdoors, people can hear the sound of their exhaled air turning into ice slag; Only when the temperature dropped to MINUS 52 degrees did the only school in the village start to close.

Such a low temperature has brought many inconveniences to daily life, such as pen ink freezing, glass lens freezing and cracking, and rapid battery power loss. Local people say that car engines must work all day and may not be restarted after a short period of flameout. Although there is a mobile phone network here, it is impossible to use mobile phones in extremely cold weather.

Despite all kinds of harsh conditions, many people say that they like this climate and long for the severe winter.

During the Soviet period, Oymyakon was famous all over the world, because there were many long-lived old people living here. People mainly raise, hunt and fish reindeer. Strangely, the local people are not malnourished. The doctor said that the secret lies in that local people not only pick wild berries to supplement nutrition, but also consume animal milk containing various trace elements. Traditional factors such as clean air and water, active lifestyle and healthy diet are likely to play an important role in this regard.

Disappearing Nuzhen Ancient Tribe

Its name comes from Oymyakon River, which means "unfrozen river", but some data show that this is a misunderstanding in Tungusic language, and its original meaning should be "frozen river".

Legend has it that a long time ago, there was a Tungusic tribe, and they thrived here. For them, this is a summer hunting ground and their hometown.

This group of people is called Ewenki in China. They used to pay tribute to the Qing emperor every year, but Russia occupied this land in the17th century, so they had to live under the rule of other nationalities.

The residents here are related to Manchu, Xibe, Hezhe and Oroqen in China. The Oroqi, Nanai, Udege, Urzi, Yakutia, Auroch, Nejidar and Evan living in Russia today are also descendants of Tunguska. They are the Jurchen tribes that were not included in Manchu (Manchuria) in history and eventually disappeared.

Oymyakon is no longer a town. In 1930s, the Soviet Union gathered nomadic people around it and established Oymyakon.

During World War II, it was once an air base of the Soviet Union. Troops flying from Alaska will take off and land here, and then supply the Soviet air force for the Soviet-German battlefield.

In September, the temperature here dropped to below zero. 10 year 10 on 24th, the temperature here has dropped to -22, and it will get colder and colder in the future. From June to February in 5438, the sunshine time here will be reduced to 3 hours every day, and ice and snow will often come here.

The ice and snow will not completely melt until May of the following year. In June, the sunshine time here will become 2 1 hour. The hottest day in Oymyakon's history appeared on July 28th, 20 10, and the highest temperature on that day was 34.6℃! It's a miracle that the temperature difference between the coldest and hottest here has reached 105.8℃!

The food, clothing, housing and transportation of Oymyakon

Lifestyle: there is no one to talk to in the street. It's not that there is no one, but I really can't stand standing and chatting. Stand for a while, and you will freeze hard. Everyone is trotting, either coming out of a warm room or going to the next warm room. In addition, people are afraid to answer the phone outdoors, because as soon as they take out their mobile phones, the electricity is gone. If you want to chat, go to a bar. Yes, Russians love vodka, which is the most lively place.

Here, people smoke very long cigarette filters, because short filters will burn gloves, so the cigarettes sold here are all specially made.

Here, leather clothes, leather pants and boots are necessities of life, and down jackets from China are also very popular.

Here, construction can only take place in June, July and August. After this village, there are no shops, because at other times the land will be as hard as stone. If there are dead people to be buried in winter, family members will burn bonfires in the cemetery for several days to thaw the frozen soil and dig graves.

Diet: Because the land is frozen all the year round, the residents here are mainly pasta, supplemented by iced tofu made of reindeer meat, horse meat, fish and horse blood. Macaroni is a local delicacy, but vegetables are not self-sufficient.

Although the diet here is monotonous, God is great. According to local doctors, people here are rarely malnourished, because eating a lot of dairy products will supplement the trace elements needed by the human body.

Vegetables here are mainly supplied by the largest and only local supermarket, and vegetables and daily necessities are shipped from Yakutsk, a big city 927 kilometers away.

Housing: There are buildings and running water pipes here, but people still like to live in houses where firewood can be burned. Because the building is too cold, the water pipes are often frozen, and the most important thing is that the waterworks are often frozen.

Surprisingly, the toilets here are very similar to those in the northeast countryside, both of which are outdoor toilets. It's just that Oymyakon people go to the toilet faster, otherwise they will freeze hard.

There is a coal-fired power plant in the local area, but the problem is that coal is often "cut off". Once the road is blocked by heavy snow, people can only stuff wood into the furnace of the power plant, which is very exhausting.

However, the worst will happen. Even if the power is cut off for 5 hours, all the pipelines will freeze and crack, including the wire skin, which is not good.

Travel: people with cars must park their cars in a heated garage, otherwise the engine will freeze; Rich people who often drive don't turn off their engines for 24 hours, probably because Russian gasoline is cheap and the Far East has subsidies.

There is a university and several primary and secondary schools, and schools under 52 are closed. There is also a post office, a bank and a summer airport (no flying in winter), several theaters and several museums. Speaking of how many people there are, the population here has been relatively stable, staying at around 500 people, mainly making a living by domesticating reindeer and fishing and hunting.

Go to oymyakon.

Russian Deputy Prime Minister discusses cooperation with China to develop the Far East. Among them, tourism is a big project. To tell the truth, many explorers have been here to make documentaries.

Since there is so much inconvenience, why do people still live here?

This is a good question. Why do people still live here?

The most accurate answer is that in order to better control these nomadic people and prevent them from wandering around and making trouble, the Soviet government has known some people they should not know. As a result, the Soviet government forced them to settle here and assimilated them with Russian culture until today. This is the origin of the settlement of Oymyakon.

Another important reason is that this is their hometown. Where else can they go?

The Russians have occupied all the best places in the Far East, leaving only this place for the Tunguska people.

If you are not satisfied, what can you do except to travel here?

Ustiniera: (Russian: усть-нера), a city with a population of 5,500.

Susuman: (Russian: сусуман) used to be the largest labor camp in the former Soviet Union, and many prisoners were exiled here. At present, the city's population has dropped sharply, and it is believed that it will soon become a "dead city". Population 5000.

Magadan: (Russian: магадан) A port city in the Russian Far East, the capital of Magadan, was founded in 1929, with a population of less than 65,438+10,000, and is called "forgotten city".

ATA' foreign self-driving customs clearance documents

It's hard to get there by car, go on road trip's "world cold pole" Oymyakon (1)-Ba Kiriko.

M56 "The Road of Bones" Crossing (4)-Ba Kiriko

M56 "White Bone Road" Crossing (5)-Ba

Ba Kiriko

Doctor of Russian Academy of Sciences, university teacher.

Extreme gamers, go on road trip enthusiasts.

Russia drives more than10.5 million kilometers; Crossing the world's top ten dangerous highways "M56" twice;

Driving to Oymyakon in winter, the coldest town where human beings live; 20 19 Asia-Europe self-driving 100 days.

Full of experience and knowledge, I look forward to sharing with you.

Life is still in front of you, but you have to rush to poetry and the distance!