Is it rainy or sunny in Nanxun?

The poet Wang Xinjian once wrote: "I dreamed of Jiangnan several times, but I am familiar with the small bridge. Bamboo on the white wall is gentle and graceful, and Dai Wayan whispers. Tea loves wine, and clear water moistens strings. Looking for apricot flowers in the rain lane, I met the awning boat. " In everyone's heart, there is an ancient town dream. For me, the ancient town has almost paranoid feelings. Although I grew up in Hunan, a land of plenty, and never left, the small bridges and flowing water in Jiangsu and Zhejiang are always my yearning place. I also really like the old buildings and solid wood carvings hidden in them. I am willing to explore the beauty and culture of the ancient town, and I will never leave. Like a place, sometimes it is not only because of its beauty, but because it is quiet enough for you to face your soul directly and let your mind stretch and relax like running water.

A misty rain met Taihu Lake.

There are many water towns in the south of the Yangtze River, crossing all ancient towns. My first impression of Jiangnan is either Dai Wangshu's poem Rain Lane, or a gentle and feminine cheongsam, or an ink painting in Jiangnan. About ten years ago, that summer, I met Nanxun from a local pictorial on the train from Hangzhou to Wuzhen. The snow-white tile-roofed house, small bridges and flowing water, deep alleys with stone slabs and quiet leisure have kept me from dreaming for a long time. This time it coincided with the fireworks in March, and my husband and I came to Jiangnan to do business together. On the way back, because I had to pass by Nanxun, I finally couldn't restrain my yearning for it, and I took a trip that I said I would go. In March, the grass grows and the warbler flies in the south of the Yangtze River. We have already felt the rainy season coming, and the sudden "cold spring" makes the trip a little difficult. Although there is not enough cold protection equipment, there is no reservation for accommodation, and the time schedule is very tight. Coupled with the impact of the epidemic, it seemed a bit hasty, but my husband and I decided to take advantage of our rare leisure time to take part in this trip to Nanxun. On the way to Nanxun, besides the driver, it was just my husband and me. I don't know if it's so cold that everyone doesn't want to go out, or because Nanxun, where we are going, is too low-key, which seems to be more suitable for visiting ancient towns, less noisy and crowded, and more comfortable and quiet. The car drove all the way along the coastline of South Taihu Lake. I saw the foggy Taihu Lake through the window smashed by rain. The water surface is extremely open and soothing, and the sails in the distance are comparable to the vastness of the sea. Passing by a few egrets occasionally makes me feel a kind of vastness. The original difficult journey seems to have vitality. The sight in front of me made me forget the cold for a while. I long for time to slow down and let me. When we got off the bus, it was several miles away from Nanxun Town. When we changed to a taxi, the taxi driver was very enthusiastic. He told us all the way about past lives in Nanxun. He said that we really should come to Nanxun at this time. At this time of last year, there were many tourists and it was crowded. Moreover, he told us that Nanxun Town has long been included in the government's transformation plan, and most of the original residents have moved away, but the transformation has not been implemented for some reasons. Maybe in a few years, it will be another scene. This reminds me of Wuzhen, which I visited ten years ago. On the one hand, it is the ancient and quaint East Gate, and on the other hand, it is the prosperous and modern West Gate transformed by the government. The sense of gap is like a lifetime ago. The thought that Nanxun or Zhaxi in Wuzhen will be full of commercial atmosphere in a few years, makes me sigh a little, and I think you are really glad to come to Nanxun this time. When we arrived in Nanxun Town, it was nearly noon. My husband and I can't resist the biting cold wind. We are going to find a coffee shop outside the scenic spot first, and order hot drinks and desserts to warm our bodies first. We visited the nearby inn while drinking hot drinks. Fortunately, we soon found a waterfront inn located in the scenic area-"Seeking for Living by the River". By contacting the store, we navigated to see the inn next to the entrance of the ancient town, only walking distance from the coffee shop. Walking out of the coffee shop, the fatigue and cold of the body eased a lot. Finally, I came to this place I always wanted to come to, but I have never been there. I can't restrain my inner joy and excitement, and I long for a Nanxun dream. ?

(B) Water dream, quiet and beautiful Nanxun

Different from the famous Wuzhen, Xitang and Zhouzhuang, Nanxun Town is introverted and low-key, like a lotus quietly blooming in time, with dark fragrance sleeves. If the word "Nanxun Town" hadn't suddenly appeared on a big stone slab at the entrance of the scenic spot, my husband and I really didn't react and had already arrived in the ancient town. Except for tourists and locals passing by in twos and threes, everything is so quiet and simple, without noise, only the quiet old marks left in time and space. When I really walked in here, I found that Nanxun Town was one of the six ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River and the first ancient town in China to be listed on the World Heritage List, but it was so low-key that people forgot its existence again and again. This low-key has aroused my preference and long-lost touch. The moment I stepped into Nanxun Town, I walked on the path paved with blue bricks, as if I had stepped into the old days. White walls and black tiles, mottled stone bridges, patchwork old shacks, and images of the old times are hidden in the attic from time to time. When standing, I seem to be able to hear Wu Nong's soft-spoken oratorios in the old days and stories that happened during the Republic of China ... this is a place where people can forget time. Even though I have been to many ancient towns, I still think they are ancient towns. It is only because of their different connotations that they have unusual charm. Hidden in the boudoir, unknown. Compared with other ancient towns, Nanxun is still a pure land. Although it used to be prosperous, it may not be the most lively and prosperous ancient town, but it seems to be a "beautiful family" hidden in the hinterland of the Yangtze River Delta, watching the changes of the years, living in a boudoir, but there are still many people interested in finding incense. Nanxun is not big, but it is as exquisite and charming as Jiangnan women. The combination of Chinese and western architecture is the unique feature that distinguishes it from other ancient towns. Although it has experienced wind and rain, it still has a unique flavor today. It can be said that every scenery in the ancient town is worth savoring. Nanxun used to be the richest town in the south of the Yangtze River. There is the former residence of Nanxun's rich mansion, and Past Lives. There are Husi and Hushu Brush in the series ... Now, history has faded away. It is like a lotus flower in bud, which lives a simple and comfortable life every day, but the amorous feelings occasionally inadvertently reveal are enough to make you fall into it like a soft wave of poetry. Even on ordinary days, it coincides with misty rain, walking on the ancient bluestone road with an umbrella of tarpaulin, and a picture of a water town in the south of the Yangtze River slowly unfolds.

(3) Prosperity, fireworks.

The beauty of Nanxun lies not in the famous scenic spots, not in the houses of celebrities, but in the streets, in the early morning and at sunset. For hundreds of years, the fireworks people here are still the same, the ancient folk customs are still the same, and the ancient Jiangnan customs have never changed. Its grass and trees are carefree, but it is not contaminated with a trace of philistinism and femininity. The rain in Jiangnan can make people think a lot, not to mention the rain in Nanxun Town, which adds a bit of confusion and charm. In the afternoon, after putting down our luggage, my husband and I walked out of the inn and walked on both sides of the Xunhe River in the face of such rain. The Jiangnan complex, which was shelved in our hearts, was opened by a spring rain and slowly fell along the blue tiles on the eaves. The ancient town is very quiet. I don't know if it's because of the rain or Nanxun. No tourists jostle each other, and occasionally I meet residents who take a leisurely walk, or old people standing by the bridge, which makes me forget that I am just a tourist. Standing on the stone bridge, I am in ink and wash. Everything here looks without any fancy and decoration, but it makes people feel simple and beautiful. Nanxun is special. Under its beautiful and refined appearance, it has unspeakable warmth and inexhaustible local flavor. Its charm is not only the apricot blossom-like style hidden under a white wall, but also the fireworks life day after day for thousands of years. The life of Nanxun people, like the river in front of the door, flows quietly and slowly. There is no bar street, no loud hawking, no standard of Yiwu handmade products in the ancient town, no so-called mutton skewers ... The double-poured noodles, dried bamboo shoots, thousands of vermicelli soup and wonton hidden in the alley all seem to smell the taste of childhood. Bluestone road full of years, red lanterns hanging in front of hundreds of buildings and at the bridge head, this is what the ancient town should look like. Only by walking in the bridge lane can you feel the real Nanxun, hidden in the century-old fireworks and the vitality of this late spring. You only need to look at it for a long time. One water port and a half dike willow, people on both sides of the strait are full of autumn. People can get what they want in Nanxun. If you just come to play, you can enjoy the ancient town style leisurely and wash away the lead in leisure; If you want to explore culture, you can meditate in historical sites and read Jiangnan epic in Shiqiao Lane. If it is for the feelings of the ancient town in your heart, you can gently lift the oil-paper umbrella, turn around the alley, cross the alley, and feel a different kind of tenderness in Wu Nong's soft language.

? (d) Hometown of poetry and books, a journey to find the heart.

Nanxun is the most beautiful place, but I still want to take you to see the Fu Zhai compound where I lived in my previous life. Before I came to Nanxun, I probably learned a lot of related keywords, such as Baijialou, Xiaolianzhuang, Library, Former Residence, Liu Tiehao, Former Residence and so on. These should be savored carefully. However, due to the special period, some scenic spots are not open to the public, so my husband and I can only choose a few of them to visit. Although we have some regrets, we also left some thoughts for ourselves. Don't look at the 100-storey building, waste your time visiting Nanxun. Hundreds of buildings meander along a river about 400 meters long. We walked out of the back door of the inn, along the river bank and through several bluestone alleys. We didn't have to look for them deliberately, we just met them by chance. Today, local residents in Nanxun still live in Baijian Building. The most beautiful scenery of baijianlou is that the residential buildings along the coast are set off by the clear river, because there are no more ships in the river, and the reflection on the river makes baijianlou seem unusually silent. This is also the most original ecology I have seen in many ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River. Behind the 100-storey building, there is also a story full of human feelings. Baijian Building was built for 100 handmaids when Shangshu, the etiquette department of Ming Dynasty, retired to Nanxun in winter and winter, but if it is built normally, it will block the way of ordinary people. In order to facilitate the people's travel, Lao Shangshu made way for the land, leaving Gai Lou above and the road below for the people to go, which reflected a conscious goodwill. No matter how big the battle is, no matter how high the status is, we all have a ruler in our hearts, and we have a reverence for personnel. This reverence is full of temperature, which makes us feel the "human touch" behind the hundred buildings. This Shangshu is from Nanxun. What he didn't expect was that today, more than 400 years later, the 100 th floor has become a tourist card of Nanxun Town. Xiaolianzhuang? Xiaolianzhuang, the private garden of Liu Yong, the head of the "Four Elephants" in Nanxun in the late Qing Dynasty, has been built for 40 years. We know from the population of the innkeeper that Xiaolianzhuang is also the ace attraction of Nanxun Town. Entering from a seemingly inconspicuous doorway, I never thought there was a big world hidden inside. The ten-acre lotus pond in Xiaolianzhuang, although only broken branches are left, is still charming and has a sense of meditation. Presumably, when Xia Zhishi is filled, the beautiful scenery of the pond and the blue lotus reflected in the sky will be more charming. Bypassing the lotus pond and approaching a small garden, the word "winding path leading to a secluded place" is engraved on the outside of the circular arch. I'm thinking that the so-called "secluded place" should be not far away ... walking inside, my husband and I can't help but marvel. It's really a "pit in the sky". Pavilions and pavilions in the garden are beautifully designed, and rockeries are made use of topography and corridors to make them unique. There is a small pavilion on the rockery. It is not difficult to imagine that the owner of the garden will talk about the past and present with the literati here and have a few drinks. Looking around, the surrounding scenery is unobstructed. Looking back, I found that the word "You" was written on the back of the archway that just came in. What a wonderful thing! The Liu Temple, the stele gallery and the memorial archway in Xiaolianzhuang all indicate that period of heavy history, which is thought-provoking. Nowadays, even if the garden is maintained, it looks old and decadent. However, considering that living in it more than 100 years ago is indeed better than the mansion worth over 100 million today, it can still be seen that it is closely related to the spiritual taste of those literati who pursued leisure in those years. Jiayetang Library, which faces Xiaolianzhuang across the river, is one of the three private libraries in China. It was built by Liu Chenggan, the grandson of Liu Yong, and there were 600,000 precious books here. Walking into Jiayetang Library, I looked at the layers of bookshelves, remembered Liu Cheng Gan's favorite collection of ancient books, and listened to the sound of turning pages. Many years later, he made great contributions to the preservation of human culture. Born in a wealthy family, he cherishes books and loves reading. He is also a strange man. How many literati Nanxun has nurtured? Years have changed, and after several storms, Nanxun still exudes a strong scholarly atmosphere, silently waiting for her heavy cultural accumulation, waiting for tourists who really understand it, not surprised and not disturbed. One stone, one bridge, one brick and one tile here are getting heavier and heavier under the influence of historical clouds. The traditional culture and the philosophy of being kind to others can make people feel a kind of human life in a fast-paced environment. ?

? (5) Stay in Nanxun overnight and listen to the rain.

If you want to have a good look at this ancient town full of life, the best choice is to stay in Nanxun for one night. As night fell, we walked slowly back to the stone road. Our inn is located by the river in the ancient town scenic spot. It was a two-story attic built near the water, and there were not many rooms. In this off-season, only my husband and I stay. The hostess of the inn is warm and exquisite, the room is clean and chic, and the uniqueness can be seen in the details. Opening the antique wooden lattice window, the Xunhe River flowing outside the window and the stone bridge not far away all make me feel really excited. At night, Nanxun is as quiet as other ancient towns. Just staying here for a few days, drinking tea, listening to the sound of rain and looking at the flowing water of small bridges will be very happy. Even just sitting on the balcony of the attic, blowing the wind, staring blankly, chatting with your lover, is extremely comfortable. As night falls, Nanxun is covered with gauze and there is a slight chill in the air. In this foggy and rainy season, the cool rain and the tenderness of Nanxun also complement each other. The ancient town after the rain is full of the smell of rain and dew. Standing on the windowsill of the attic, I can see the red lights on by the river through the hazy fog gauze, and the reflection of the red lights in the water is long, showing a different kind of gentleness and tranquility; The wind is blowing the willow branches and swaying the posture, which makes the quiet night a little more clever. At this time, this scene reminds me of Bian's poem "Broken Chapter": "You are standing on the bridge watching the scenery, and the people watching the scenery are watching you upstairs. The bright moon decorated your window, and you decorated other people's dreams. " "Life is a blooming tree, quiet or warm, lonely or bright. The days are getting thicker and thicker in the rings of the years. Those innocent, jumping or meditating souls are engraved with deep and shallow impressions in the bustling and hustle and bustle. " ? Listening to the sound of wind and rain outside the window, Mr. Wang pondered for a while, as if talking to himself, or saying to me: "We stand now and think about the changes of history, there will be a sense of unreality, just like walking in the roadway on the bank of Xunhe River and thinking of the person who wrote the poem" Little Bridges Flowing, Old Roads Flowing ".What kind of situation will you sigh for? However, have you ever thought that in a few decades or even hundreds of years, we will be the people who write history. Maybe one evening, someone will stand in the same place, explore the road under our feet and recall our present. " I smiled silently. Nanxun Town is really a place where people can forget the time. It flows away the years and leaves behind the history. It doesn't matter who you are or who I am. Even after thousands of years, the inner soul can have a dialogue that spans time and space. A misty rain, half a curtain dream. The years are quiet and accompany you, the years are flowing with you, and the prosperity is with you. If a place can still have purity, old moonlight and recall things in our past memories, I think this place is an ancient town. Wake up in the middle of the night, the sound of paddles floats by, and the tenderness in time is within reach. Nanxun, perhaps not suitable for meeting, is more suitable for precipitation. All your expectations and longings for the ancient town can be properly met. Want to feel its beauty, only slow down and listen attentively. ......