Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Weather inquiry - Why did my Oprina lose her leaves?

Why did my Oprina lose her leaves?

How did the normally maintained Oprina lose her leaves?

Opalina is a very classic succulent variety, because it can grow very big and domineering in the case of stocking, and it can become very fat and cute in the case of controlled feeding. At the same time, it is easy to get out of shape. In autumn and winter, its leaves will slowly turn pink when the sun shines slightly. More importantly, it is strong and easy to raise. Usually, as long as we maintain it normally, there will be basically no problems, so many people who love meat like it.

Since Oprina is strong, what is the reason for her falling leaves in winter? Personally, I think there may be the following reasons: First, low temperature freezing. In winter, some meat lovers measured that Oplina can withstand the low temperature of about MINUS 5℃, but that's when the basin soil is dry. If the soil in the basin is wet or the low temperature weather makes it wet, Oplina will suffer from frostbite and defoliation. Treatment: As long as the stems are not frozen and soft, we will move Opalina to room temperature in time, and it will recover slowly in about 2-3 days, and then we will move to a higher temperature for maintenance.

Second, the root is suffocating. In winter, as long as the temperature of the environment is not lower than 5℃, we can water Opalina normally. If there is heating in the room, there is no need to deliberately control the water, but it is necessary to strengthen the ventilation after watering, otherwise Opalina may be bored with leaves. Treatment: move Opalina to a well-ventilated place for maintenance, and don't water it for a short time. After that, as long as you don't continue to lose leaves, you will be fine. And if this trick doesn't work, you must take it out of the pot, dry the roots, and then you can change it into dry soil and replant it.

Third, rotten roots are black rot. Opalina has thick leaves, so she is very drought-tolerant. When watering, we should strictly follow the principle of "do not water, but water thoroughly". Water must be strictly controlled in winter and watered once a month/kloc-0. Too frequent watering is prone to root rot and black rot. Treatment method: immediately take Opalina out of the pot, clean all the rotten roots (if it is black rot, it should be beheaded and cut into pieces), then soak them in bactericide for disinfection, then dry the roots for about 3-5 days, and then change the soil for replanting.

Fourth, infected with germs. I have a lot to say about this: in summer, my Opalina was infected with bituminous coal disease, and her leaves fell off as soon as she touched them. If you look closely, you will find that there are black coal ash spots on her petiole. Treatment method: isolate in time, and spray the leaves of Opalina alternately with various fungicides, especially on the back and petiole of the leaves, to inhibit germs and prevent them from falling off the leaves.