Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Weather inquiry - In ancient times, how did people dress when they encountered sandstorms and smog?

In ancient times, how did people dress when they encountered sandstorms and smog?

In the cold season with frequent sandstorms and smog, modern people invariably choose to wear masks to travel. There were no masks in ancient times. What should I do if I encounter sandstorms and smog? As early as the pre-Qin period, the ancients had designed a female "face mask" with shielding function, and later invented more fashionable "parting" and "hanging a hat". Besides, the sleeves and towels of the ancients can also come in handy. ...

In the pre-Qin period, people began to wear "face clothes"

The Book of Rites records: "When a woman goes out, she must be covered."

The ancient people's preferred "equipment" to deal with sandstorms and smog probably depended on a few clothes. In the article "In Beijing with Friends" written by Tu Long in the Ming Dynasty, he said: "Yanshi rode Huang Ma in a fur coat, and the dust was everywhere. When I got off the horse, my nostrils were as black as smoke. "

According to Tu Long's memory, the climate in Beijing in the Ming Dynasty was very bad, and the dirty weather such as dust and smog was serious: all the riders on the streets of Beijing wore face clothes, and the dust blown up by the strong wind was flying all over the sky. After returning to dismount, I found two nostrils as black as chimneys.

Face clothing is a kind of clothing that was first invented by China people to protect the face. Early facial clothing was specially designed for women. The custom of wearing face clothes appeared in the pre-Qin period. There is a saying in the Book of Rites: "Women must cover their faces when they go out." When women go out, they should cover their faces. Although this requirement of "covering face" is based on the consideration of "courtesy" advocated by Confucianism, it unexpectedly plays the role of wind, sand and fog, and can also keep out the cold and keep warm.

Having a face-changing dress has become a necessity for women with status in Qin and Han dynasties, and it is essential to travel far away. It is believed that "Miscellanies of Xijing" records that Emperor Gaozu doted on Zhao Hede. After his sister Zhao became the queen, one of the high-end luxury items was a "brocade and purple cotton sweater".

Jinhua purple cotton-padded clothes, purple embroidered golden flowers. Such a veil is naturally very appropriate as a gift for the queen's sister. The face clothes used by folk women are relatively simple, generally made of ordinary cloth and yarn. Considering the needs of the package, the cloth width of the face coat is relatively wide, so it is also called "big towel" and "giant towel".

This kind of face-shaped clothes is very big, which can cover the knees when worn on the chest, so it is also called "covering the knees". Yang Xiong's Dialect No.4 in the Western Han Dynasty said: "Covering the knee, it is called" Qi "between Jianghuai, or" Qi ". Wei, Song, Nan and Chu are called' big towels', and collecting things by themselves is called' covering knees', and the suburbs of Qilu are called' cockroaches'. "

After Wei and Jin Dynasties, the "big towel" became popular.

"Interpretation of Names" records: "Tian Nv came from the field to cover her head."

A face coat is actually a big square towel. When you use it, cover it on your head and tie it with a belt. The use of face clothes can be seen from the explanation of Ming Fu Shi by Liu Xi in the Eastern Han Dynasty: "The cymbals cover the knees, so the women cover the knees. Qi people call it a' giant towel', and Tianjia women cover their heads from the fields and think they are famous. "

Xiao er ya guang fu says, "a big towel is strength." What is power? It is the "cover" of the ancients.

The usage of "covering the head" gave the veil another name, and later the bride's "red hijab" in marriage customs was also derived from it.

Face clothes are women's clothes. After Wei and Jin Dynasties, men can also use face clothes when traveling in winter. Jin Hui Di Ji records that in the first year of Jianwu (AD 304), Jin Huidi Emperor Sima Zhong was robbed to Chang 'an by general Zhang Fang. "During the trip to Xin 'an, it was freezing. The emperor fell off his horse and hurt his foot, and the ministers held high lights on their faces. "Sima Zhong got this shelter from the wind and cold, and he was so happy that he also enjoyed the highlights.

Compared with before, in Wei and Jin Dynasties, the role of back clothing in covering dust was more prominent, but its cold-proof performance was weakened. At this time, the face clothes are often cut with thin leno. Because it is thin and transparent, the face is easy to be seen by outsiders, and the fabric is black gauze, which has good shielding effect.

There is such a fairy couple in Gan Bao's "Searching for the Gods". Their wives are very beautiful: "Elegant, if you are eighteen or nineteen years old, soap covers your waist, no makeup, shiny and watery, beautiful." The "soap head" here is to cover your face with black gauze.

Face clothes were also called "face hats" in the Song Dynasty. Song Gaocheng's Tale, Volume 3, Crown Jewelry Curtain Hat, says: "There are also face clothes, with purple Luo hanging on the front and back and four different colors hanging on the back, which are used for women to ride horses on long trips, also known as' face hats'."

In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the face clothes paid more attention to design, practicality and ingenuity. Judging from the pictures in Wang Qi's Three Stories in Ming Dynasty, the face clothes in Ming Dynasty were mostly made of thick cloth and satin, and the middle opening was decorated with black gauze.

Dressing was popular in the early Tang Dynasty (press to leave a message)

"Old Tang Book" records: "The whole body is blocked and I don't want to see it."

In ancient times, an ornament called "Li Jian" was better than ordinary face clothes in shielding sandstorms. It was very long, and it could cover both the face and the body, which served multiple purposes.

Li Fen (Li Fen) is the earliest equipment invented and widely used by ethnic minorities in the northwest and north with windy and dusty weather. It must be used when riding horses in cold weather. According to "Biography of Sui Shu Tuguhun", Li is still a noble costume with status, Tuguhun "princes and nobles wear more Li".

It was probably introduced to the mainland after Wei and Jin Dynasties, and it became a routine for women to wear it in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. Wu Jun's poem "Xiao Xi" in the Southern Dynasties (5) says: "The calendar hangs a phoenix and shakes a white ball. Who can watch this for a long time and hate it? "

"Ber Ber" in the poem means "Ber Ber". At the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, riding a horse and traveling in clothes became popular clothes for fashionistas in the Central Plains. The old Tang Dynasty book Yu Fu Zhi recorded this fashion: "During the period of martial arts and Zhenguan, imperial officials rode horses according to the old system of Qi and Sui Dynasties, and many of them were enfeoffed." Although it originated in Yi Rong, but the whole body is blocked, I don't want to see it on the road. "This record shows that the basic function of" force "is the need of" whole body shielding ",but in the long journey, the role of" force "is very obvious, so it is popular.

In the early Tang Dynasty, the word "Li" was reserved for women, and this feature was also used in the war. "Biography of Li Mi in Old Tang Dynasty" records that Li Mi used the custom of women dressing to make soldiers dress up and pretend to be women to cheat each other.

But it was popular in the early Tang dynasty, and it was replaced by a curtain hat that was more convenient to wear. Since Li Zhi (Tang Gaozong) became Emperor Yonghui, women will choose to wear a veil when they travel. When Empress Wu Zetian of Li Zhi changed dynasties, wearing curtain hats disappeared and became popular.

Song dynasty likes to wear "curtain hat"

Ji Yuan's matter: "Take dust as clothes and walk Wan Li Road."

What's the curtain cap like? It should be inspired by separation (separation from the bottom) and evolved from a mature hat. This hat is made of rattan mats, and the brim is inlaid with a circle of tulle. When women go out, wearing it can play a shielding role, which is more convenient, fashionable and beautiful than wearing it.

Song Gaocheng's Tale, Volume III, Curtain Cap of Crown Jewelry, said: "In this world, people often use soap gauze as green, and the whole picture is attached to the oil cap or hat to cover it."

As the curtain cap becomes thinner, it can be worn not only in winter but also in summer, which can prevent sun, rain and mosquitoes. Curtain caps appeared in the Sui Dynasty. Yan, a famous painter in the early Tang Dynasty, probably added a curtain hat to Wang Zhaojun in consideration of the windy and dusty weather in the north when he created the map of Zhao Jun's departure from the fortress. As a result, many people pointed out that this was a failure because there was no curtain cap in the Western Han Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, Zhang Yanyuan's Record of Famous Paintings in Past Dynasties said: "Yan painted Zhao Jun and wore a hat. I don't know that wood blade was founded in the Jin Dynasty, and hats are popular all over the country. "

The difference between the curtain cap and the slit (slit under the cover) is that the gauze hanging from the curtain cap is shorter, only reaching the neck, and not as big as the slit (slit under the cover). Therefore, compared with the tight package, the curtain cap is "skirt to neck, quite exposed", which is a very sexy design in modern times.

However, the conservative ancients thought that it was inappropriate for women to wear curtain caps and bare necks, so curtain caps were once ignored. However, because the fashion queen Wu Zetian did not object, the curtain hat quickly became popular after she proclaimed herself emperor, and was welcomed by "public and private" at that time. This is the so-called Book of the Old Tang Dynasty: Yu Fuzhi: "As the day goes by, the curtain becomes bigger, and the separation fades away."

Curtain caps were popular again in Song Dynasty, which emphasized ethics and morality, because of their good function of covering face. Sima Guang's "Notes on Shui Jing Jia Xu" reiterated the requirements of the pre-Qin people: "A woman who has a reason to go out must be covered. The footman doesn't enter the middle door unless it is repaired, which makes sense. When you enter the middle door, women will avoid it. You can't avoid it, you must cover your face with sleeves. "

Flexible use of "towel handkerchief" in Yuan Dynasty.

The Travels of Marco Polo records: "People who offer food cover their mouths and noses with scarves."

Sima Guang's requirement of "covering his face with sleeves" means covering his face with sleeves and not looking at what he shouldn't. This kind of "covering your face with sleeves" is actually another way for the ancients to stop sandstorms and smog, and it is also the simplest and most commonly used by the ancients.

The sleeves of the ancients are exquisite, wide and long, which can be used as pockets, covers, wind and dust, and even as rags under special circumstances. In the article "Su Qin said that everything was obedient" in The Warring States Policy, Qi Ce I, there is a saying that "sleeves are connected together to form a curtain", which shows that the ancients began to play the shielding role of sleeves in the pre-Qin period.

The sleeves of the ancients were not only exquisite, but also secret. There is a bag to hide things, and things like towels and handkerchiefs that women often use are stuffed in the bag. When encountering severe weather such as sandstorm and smog, you can take out towels and handkerchiefs to temporarily cover your face and cover your nose and mouth to replace the basic functions of face clothes.

Towel handkerchief is a kind of textiles such as handkerchiefs and towels. A small towel is powerful and versatile. Besides covering your face, wiping your eyes, wiping your nose and wiping your mouth, you can also express your feelings and make promises. So after Qin and Han Dynasties, handkerchiefs became the common private property of men and women. In the ancient poem Peacock Flying Southeast, Liu Lanzhi, who was rejected by her mother-in-law, had a handkerchief: "A Nv was silent, and the handkerchief covered her mouth."

When a towel handkerchief is used to cover, it is often operated with one hand, which is inconvenient. For example, when carrying a plate, tie it directly to your head and cover the lower part of your nose and mouth. /kloc-in the 3rd century, Kyle Poirot, an Italian who came to China, saw this scene in the Yuan Dynasty (now Beijing). Feng's translation of Marco Polo's Travels said: "In the palaces of the Yuan Dynasty, people who offered food covered their mouths and noses with scarves to let them breathe and not touch food." "Scarf" is a kind of towel and handkerchief. This civilized custom of "stressing hygiene" opened Kyle Poirot's eyes, so it was written as a novelty in his Travels to the East.

According to this, all scholars of Chinese studies have come to the conclusion that this is the proof that China people invented masks and took the lead in wearing them, but it is not the same thing. The phenomenon of "covering your nose and mouth with a silk scarf" was not unique to the Yuan Dynasty, but existed after the invention of the flexible towel handkerchief. If you have to associate it with wearing a mask, you can take this "silk scarf" as the prototype of a modern mask!