What are the causes and elements of waves?

Fluctuation refers to the phenomenon that local particles of liquid with free surface leave the original equilibrium position after being disturbed and fluctuate periodically, and spread around. Are you curious about the formation of waves? The following is my answer to how waves are formed. I hope it will help you!

The reason of wave formation is that seawater is influenced by sea breeze and pressure change, which makes it leave its original equilibrium position and move upward, downward, forward and backward. This formed waves at sea. Wave is a kind of regular periodic fluctuation.

When the waves rush to the shore, the up-and-down movement of the lower water is hindered because the depth of the sea is getting shallower and shallower. Due to the inertia of objects, the waves of seawater are layered and more and more, and each wave is higher than the other. At the same time, as the water depth becomes shallow, the movement resistance of the lower water is getting bigger and bigger, so that in the end, its movement speed is slower than that of the upper water. Due to inertia, the highest part of the wave falls forward and falls on the beach, becoming a splashing wave.

Storm surges are particularly important. Wind and waves are the product of special strong winds with a considerable blowing range; Their impact on the coastline in one day may be more obvious than that of ordinary prevailing waves in relatively calm weather for several weeks. Most of these storms have devastating consequences. Because they appear at a high frequency, wave after wave, the frequency is about 1 minute 12- 14 times, because when the waves are broken, the water is almost vertically impacted (so there are? Impact breaking waves? In a word), so the backflow is much worse than climbing. Therefore, these destructive waves tend to? Comb? Leave the beach and transport the materials to the sea. For gentle waves that fluctuate about 6-8 times per minute, the forward power of climbing waves is strong, and the return force is weak due to friction resistance; Therefore, they tend to move coarse gravel to the beach. These waves are constructive waves, namely? Collapse? Or? Excited? Broken waves.

The average pressure of Atlantic ocean waves on the west coast of Ireland in winter is almost 65,438+065,438+0,000 kg per square meter, and the pressure can be as high as three times during the big storm. At high tide, storm surges have a significant impact on the coastline, because their forces act on the high beach or cliff surface.

When the wave approaches the coast and the water becomes shallow, its speed will decrease. If the coast consists of alternating headlands, the water in front of the headlands will be shallower than that in the deep waters of the bay. Therefore, the waves bend or refract from the bay to the headland side, which strengthens the erosion process here. If waves travel in an oblique direction, they may also be refracted on a straight coast, and as a result, they will eventually break in a direction almost parallel to the coast.

Wave elements The size and shape of waves are explained by wave elements. The basic elements of waves are: wave crest, wave crest, wave trough, wave bottom, wave height, wavelength, period, wave velocity, wave direction line, wave crest line and so on.

Wave peak and wave peak: The wave peak is the high point of the periodic motion of waves, and its highest point is called the wave peak.

Wave trough and wave bottom: the wave trough is the lower part of the periodic motion of waves, and its lowest point is called wave bottom.

Wave height: Wave height is the vertical distance between the wave crest and the wave trough.

Wavelength: Wavelength is the horizontal distance between two peaks.

Classification of waves There are many standards for the classification of waves, and the most common one is the following classification according to the causes.

(1) Wind waves and swells. Waves formed under the direct action of wind power are called wind waves; When the wind stops, but the waves leave the wind area, the waves at this time are called swells.

(2) Internal waves. The fluctuation phenomenon in seawater is caused by the relative action of two kinds of seawater with different densities.

(3) Tidal waves. Waves generated by tidal gravity of seawater.

(4) Tsunami. Huge waves caused by volcanoes, earthquakes or storms.

(5) barometric waves. Fluctuations caused by sudden changes in air pressure.

(6) Ship traveling waves. Waves generated by ship motion.

(7) the aftermath. Waves caused by the gradual weakening of sea surface fluctuations.

Waves in the open ocean are formed by the vibration of water quality points. When the waves pass by, the water quality point will draw a circle. On the peak, each particle moves forward slightly, and then almost returns to their original position in the trough. A piece of driftwood or cork will hardly change its position unless it is actually blown by wind or current. The vibration of particles is caused by the friction of wind on the water. The result of strong wind is a huge wave, which may be as high as 12 vertically between the peak and the trough. 15m (40？ 50 feet) circular swell spread thousands of kilometers in the open ocean. The wavelength (horizontal distance between adjacent peaks) of the longest surge observed so far is 1 130m (3700ft), and the wave height is 2 1m (70ft), that is, 196 1 year? Betsy. During the hurricane, an automatic wave recorder was observed in the western Atlantic.

However, when the wave propagates to the shallow water area, its peak becomes steep and curly, and then it is broken (called broken wave at this time). As a result, a large number of broken waves become climbing waves (that is, sending them) and rush to the beach as a whole. Then, the water flows back along the beach slope. On the one hand, water accumulates against the coast, on the other hand, it is offset by an underflow called underflow, which flows back from the coast near the seabed, or partially becomes a crack.

Waves are pushed to the shore by the wind, and their height and energy depend on the strength of the wind and the distance the wind blows in the open water, which is called the blowing range. Therefore, in the evolution of the coastline, the most important thing is the position and orientation of the coastline relative to the wind direction and the open sea, especially the position and orientation of the coastline relative to the maximum blowing direction and the maximum wave direction, that is, the dominant wave (the wave that can play the greatest role).

Interpretation of waves: (1). The undulating surface of rivers, lakes and oceans.

Jin Shu? Zhang Huachuan:? After a while, the water was sparkling and rough, and my sword was lost. ? Tang Li Shen's poem "Tracing the Xijiang River": Looking at the waves from a distance is safer than clouds. ? Liang Bin's Playing with Fire XIX:? His mood is like the surging waves in a big river. ?

Interpretation: (2) Metaphor is ups and downs.

"altar sutra? Problem product:? No worries, no waves. ? Yang Shuo's "Three Thousand Jiang Lishan" paragraph 4:? In a peaceful environment, there may be some small waves in my heart, which is not satisfactory; Once on the battlefield, everything is forgotten, and there is only one thing-victory. ?

Interpretation: (3). Point to the face.

"Whistle Gao Yuanan Road? "The Courtyard of Weak Sound" Suite:? Old Bao Er clung to his body tightly, and frost and snow piled up on the waves he was driving. ? Zhu Ming discounted Qujiang Pool for the fourth time: gentle and gentle, making waves, how to teach people not to use their brains. ?

Interpretation: (4). Romantic.

Dai Yuan Fu Shan's Beautiful Scenery got the second discount:? I'm crazy, I'm crazy, I'm crazy, I'm crazy, I'm crazy, I'm crazy, I'm crazy.

Interpretation: (5) Diligence. Refers to the love between men and women.

Yongxi Yuefu? Pink? Sixty-seven poems about the West Chamber:? Find a matchmaker, talk about his heart one by one, give an opinion, spread some waves and teach you to match. ?

Interpretation: (6). Refers to concentration; Help!

Yuan Wuhan Chen's "Jade Pot Spring" is the second fold: I am a romantic general in the village. He is good at reciting, knowing waves and writing new movements in the pear garden. ?

Interpretation: (7). It is a metaphor for the twists and turns in the development of things.