How to Plant Apple Seedlings Related Technologies: How to Plant Apple Seedlings

Apples have good nutritional value and are loved by many people. How to plant apple saplings? The following is the apple sapling planting method I carefully arranged for you. Let's have a look.

Planting methods of apple saplings. Seedling raising technology;

All new orchards adopt new rootstocks and new varieties. It is recommended that apple seedlings have high wild degree, strong soil adaptability, disease resistance, drought and flood resistance and long service life. In order to improve the quality of newly-built orchards, soil preparation and special fertilizer should be strictly applied. Before planting, a fixed pit should be dug according to the required density, with the specification of 0.6mx0.6m and the depth of 0.6m. The subsoil and topsoil should be separated, and base fertilizer (organic fertilizer)1500kg should be applied per mu. According to the local soil conditions, more fine sand organic fertilizer (a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer (0. 1kg potash fertilizer per plant, 0.2kg compound fertilizer) can be applied, mixed with topsoil and backfilled to 15cm above the ground, and compacted, so that land resources can be fully utilized. The plant spacing can be 2m×2m, or planting ditch (0.6mx0.6m) can be dug, and water should be poured 3-4 days before planting, with 70438+05 cm before planting.

Soak in ketobuzin or 500 times carbendazim solution for one day and night to make it fully absorb water and disinfect the seedlings. After soaking, the roots of the seedlings are soaked in the soil with rooting powder for planting. Water in time after planting, cover with plastic film to keep moisture, and drain water in time to prevent yellowing of seedlings and loss of feces.

2. Seedling shaping and pruning

Mainly advocate spinning. Spinning has long been fruitful, and it is a tree shape advocated at present. Spinning: the height of the tree is 2.5? 3.m, crown width 1.8m, stem height 70cm, evenly planted in the central stem 10? 15 main branch, regardless of hierarchy, main branch spacing 15? 20 cm, evenly distributed around, and the opening angle of main branches reaches 60? 90 degrees, small crown, easy management, flowering in the same year, bearing fruit in two years, and greatly increasing the yield in three to four years. Seedling pruning is mainly plastic, usually in early spring. No skirt branches are left below 70cm, and one branch is left every 20cm above 90cm. To choose the right direction, you won't cut off all the branches when you grow to 80cm. All of them are leveled and germinated, and 50-30cm is cut off to promote new branches. The central trunk will not be cut short, but cut every 20cm to promote the uniform growth of branches. In May and June, it is necessary to twist the tip in time, control the core, cut the trunk of the tree and promote the differentiation of flower buds. If the branches are too thick, paclobutrazol can be used to control the growth of branches and promote the increase and fullness of flower buds.

Matters needing attention in planting apple saplings (1). Types of freezing damage The freezing damage in late autumn and early winter is from the end of 654381October to the beginning of February +065438+65438. Before the apple leaves fell, the tree was not completely dormant, and the weather was unusually warm. The average daily temperature reached about 65438 05℃, which induced the physiology of cambium and bark at the base and root of the main branch. Low cold resistance, sudden strong wind cooling or cold current, the temperature dropped to -3℃-5℃, and after several hours, the cambium and deep bark of these parts froze and became light brown. During the germination period of the following spring, the branches or trees above the frozen parts could not germinate for a long time. After normal fruit trees shed flowers, the branches or the whole tree still can't germinate, and the cambium and deep bark in the frozen parts turn dark brown and eventually die. But the shallow bark is still white and green. After flowering, about 1 month, the frozen part of bark drooped and dried up. A large area or severely frozen bark cracked and fell off, and the xylem under the skin was dark brown. The trunk and branches of winter fruit trees with low temperature and freezing injury in winter have strong frost resistance after entering dormancy period. However, when the temperature is unusually low in winter, the twigs with relatively thin bark often suffer from low temperature freezing injury, and the pith browns and dies, and the xylem and bark edges browns and dies. At the same time, the flower buds are also frozen to brown. In winter, sometimes the temperature drops below -25℃, and the bark of the big branches is frostbitten, turning brown and dying. Before and after the Spring Festival, the soil began to thaw, the temperature rose rapidly, the air was dry and windy, and the evaporation of water from branches was large. However, the soil under the tree is wet or the root system is deep, and the soil where the root layer is located is still in a frozen state, which can not fully absorb water and supply it to the branches that begin to move above the ground, resulting in serious dehydration and contraction of the thin and tender bark of the tree, which turns purple or dark purple, and the phloem and xylem turn white and dry, and die later. Late frost freezing injury The freezing injury of apple flower buds from the expansion stage to the flowering stage is generally manifested as the style, stigma and anther changing from green to brown in the early stage, and then wilting and drying up. When the pistils and stamens are frozen, the flowers can develop, but they can't bear fruit. When the frost damage is serious, the petals will wither and fall off when they are waterlogged. Two-ring freezing injury in young fruit stage Generally, the young fruit stage of apple is about 7- 10 days after flowering. When encountering low temperature below 3℃ or late frost, annular shrinkage appears above sepals, and crescent-shaped pits are quickly formed, which continue to develop into purple-red pits around the top of the fruit, and the superficial pulp under the skin becomes brown, necrotic and cork-shaped. With the growth of fruits, a large number of damaged fruits fall off. When the fallen fruits reach maturity, there are still annular or discontinuous annular dark brown dents around the calyx. Generally, this kind of low-temperature freezing injury is light on the slope, heavy under the slope, heavy on young trees in concave land and light on big trees in flat land. Qin Guan and Fuji varieties are seriously ill, while Jinguan varieties are slightly ill.

(2), prevention and control methods

1, orchards prone to freezing injury in late autumn and early winter should control the application of nitrogen fertilizer after July, and at the same time spray phosphorus and potassium fertilizer on trees to control vigorous growth and promote branch maturity and nutrient reflux. Orchards with irrigation conditions should be filled with frozen water in time. In late autumn, the middle and lower parts of trunks and branches should be painted white. Young trees should be cultivated on the surface before winter. In areas where the roots are easily damaged by freezing, you can turn over the root soil in late autumn, and then air-dry it for half a month before filling in the soil.

2. Orchards with frequent late frost in spring and autumn should be watered before germination of fruit trees in spring, and watered after germination and before flowering. Irrigation with water for 2-3 times. This can delay the phenology of fruit trees by 2-3 days to reduce the degree of freezing injury. According to the weather forecast, early irrigation after germination can improve the heat capacity of the orchard and has obvious anti-freezing effect on the short-term cooling of about -3℃.

3. Spraying 80- 100% Guokangbao film 80- 100 times before flower bud germination in spring has a certain effect on preventing flower bud freezing injury above -3℃, which can reduce the rate of flower bud freezing injury by about 30%.

4. According to the weather forecast, a bunch of weeds are planted in the orchard every 20-30 meters to prevent the late frost injury at flowering stage, and when the temperature drops below 0℃, smoke will start to ignite. You can also spray water on trees to increase heat capacity and reduce freezing damage.

Apple tree planting method 1. Use surface irrigation:

Generally speaking, surface irrigation is flood irrigation and long border irrigation, but surface irrigation is a waste of water, especially in the case of grass growing in the orchard, the water flow is blocked by grass, and the irrigation amount varies greatly in different areas near the water source. Therefore, it is best not to use flood irrigation and long border irrigation in apple orchards, and implement the following water-saving ground irrigation methods.

1. Small border irrigation: one fruit tree can be planted in one border, and two or four fruit trees can be planted in one border. The smaller the boundary, the more water will be saved. Small border irrigation needs to build main canals, branch canals and capillaries, which affects the mechanized operation of orchards and is suitable for small orchards contracted by families. Flexible plastic pipes can also be used to replace branch canals and capillary canals, and the original canals can be slightly raised, so that the mobile machinery can overcome the shortcomings of too many ridges and ditches and save water, which is worth popularizing. However, the hose should be connected to a faucet with a certain pressure, and some orchards and pipes use the same water supply system, which is also very convenient.

2. Trickle furrow irrigation: that is, when irrigation is temporarily carried out between rows, multiple ditches are mechanically opened for irrigation. With ditching, irrigation will be carried out and the soil will be covered in time to keep moisture.

Method 2, drip irrigation:

The so-called drip irrigation is short for drip irrigation. Water is filtered and pressurized at the water source and transported to the crown of each fruit tree through the pipeline system. Several drippers drip water evenly and slowly into the soil. After the water source is turned on, all drippers drip water at the same time for irrigation. This way of water supply makes the soil around the roots of fruit trees moist, while rows of fruit trees remain relatively dry.

Drip irrigation has many advantages: it saves water, which is 1/2 of the amount of sprinkler irrigation and 1/3 of the amount of ground flooding or even less; No need for soil preparation; Fruit trees have good growth and fruiting, high yield and excellent quality; Labor-saving management and high efficiency. Drip irrigation has high investment in materials and strict requirements on water quality, which is the limiting factor for the large-scale popularization of drip irrigation at present.

Method 3, using sprinkler irrigation:

Generally speaking, sprinkler irrigation is sprinkler irrigation. Water is sprayed into the air through a sprinkler under a certain pressure by using a water pump and a pipeline system, dispersed into tiny water droplets, and irrigated like rain.

The advantages of sprinkler irrigation are water saving, no soil preparation, high fruit yield, excellent quality and high irrigation efficiency; Sprinkler irrigation is also beneficial to improve the microclimate of orchard. Sprinkler irrigation also needs a lot of material resources, which affects the irrigation efficiency in windy areas.

Sprinkler irrigation can be divided into three forms according to the height of the sprinkler on the riser: one is that the sprinkler is higher than the tree crown, and the irrigation area controlled by each sprinkler is large, using high-pressure sprinkler; One is that the sprinkler is located in the middle of the tree crown, and each sprinkler only controls a part of the irrigation area of four adjacent trees, using medium pressure sprinkler; The other is that the sprinkler is under the canopy, and a tree needs multiple small sprinklers, and each sprinkler controls a small irrigation area. This kind of low-pressure sprinkler irrigation is also called micro-sprinkler irrigation, and only low-pressure nozzles are used. Micro-spraying is generally not affected by wind power and saves water than medium-high sprinkler irrigation.

Method 4, applying irrigation and fertilization:

General irrigation fertilization refers to a method of fertilizing orchards through irrigation systems (sprinkler irrigation, micro-irrigation and drip irrigation).

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