How to raise a chameleon

Specific species have different breeding methods. I'll give you an identification website. Go and see BBS. PTX.com/topic-208528.aspx (you can't send the link, please delete the space).

This chapter is the professional reptile forum in China. You can ask many experts what you don't understand.

Did you catch your dragon in the wild? It means that your outdoor environment is similar to the breeding environment of chameleon. Don't think too much about temperature and humidity. Get a bigger cage, put more green plants, make sure there are more branches and leaves, and make sure he has room to escape and move. Find a small box to hang on the edge of the cage and put some bugs in it. Spray more water on the leaves every day and let the chameleon drink the water dripping from the leaves. These are all relatively basic.

Let me show you a post about chameleon breeding on the Internet.

Basic knowledge of raising chameleon

1. Suitable temperature

The most suitable temperature range for raising a high crown is 25~32 degrees. Many friends only think that the "hot spot" is 32~35 degrees, and always think that the chameleon will find a suitable position to regulate the body temperature, regardless of the temperature in other parts of the feeding box. In fact, when the "hot spot" is quite different from the room temperature, the temperature drops rapidly from the spotlight to the bottom of the box. For example, when the room temperature is lower than ~ 15 degrees, it may be very high under the spotlight, but the spotlight cannot raise the temperature of the whole feeding box to a suitable temperature (25~28 degrees), and the temperature at the bottom of the box or other positions may still be very low. Chameleons never stay in hot spots for 24 hours. When it leaves the hot spot, it is equivalent to living in a low temperature, which is why many friends think that the temperature is high enough and still find that the chameleon has symptoms such as cold, indigestion and loss of appetite! This problem is particularly obvious in a well-ventilated and large-scale feeding box, so everyone must know the temperature anywhere in the feeding box to ensure that the temperature in the whole feeding box is not lower than 25 degrees.

There is no standard for wattage of spotlights, mainly depending on the size of the feed box and room temperature. Thermometers are used to measure temperature to determine how many watts of light bulbs to use. Also remember, under any circumstances, the spotlight and the chameleon must keep a certain distance, otherwise it will burn.

Symptoms or problems of hypothermia: dark color, loss of appetite, indigestion, respiratory infection (cold), etc.

2. Proper humidity

Many people think that raising a high crown must have high humidity. Generally, ultrasonic atomization is used to improve the humidity, but you must remember to control it with a timing switch. Long-term use of atomization will make the feeding box too wet and easy to breed bacteria. In fact, the humidity required for a high crown is not high, about 50% during the day and about 70% at night. In the south, there is no need to atomize except to take a dry bath in winter (in fact, just spray more water).

Note that larvae need high humidity (about 70~90%), and the feeding box must use moisture-retaining substrates such as soil and grass moss (not bark). Various plants and water spraying can also increase humidity, but we must pay attention to avoid bacterial growth.

Too high or too low humidity can also cause the problem of chameleon peeling. Old skin is easy to breed fungi and easily cause skin diseases (cocoon or inflammation). Nails or tail tips will fall off because of old skin constraints that hinder nutrient delivery. After the nail or tail tip falls off, it will be damaged, and if it is not treated, it will easily become inflamed.

Also note that the humidity will drop after using the heating lamp. In winter, due to the low temperature and humidity, most people will use heating lamps, the humidity becomes extremely low, and the eyes and trachea are dry, which is easy to cause eye diseases or colds. Therefore, in addition to considering the temperature in winter, we should also pay attention to maintaining proper humidity.

Symptoms or problems: poor peeling, respiratory diseases, eye diseases, bacteria growing in the box, etc.

3 Suitable light source

I think we all know that natural sunlight is the best light source, but ordinary people may not be able to keep it outdoors, so we need to use special lamps to meet the needs of chameleons. Chameleon is a diurnal reptile, which usually needs to bask in the sun to absorb UVB light. UVB can make the body produce vitamin D3(D3 can help the body absorb calcium). Nowadays, reptile products are more common. Most people can buy UVB lamps for reptiles, but some people want to change them into other lamps to save money, such as ordinary white lamps, aquarium lamps and sterilization lamps. But these lamps are not suitable for use at all, and sterilization lamps are more harmful to chameleon! Unless you can provide 1~3 hours of natural sunlight every day, you must spend money on a special tube for reptiles.

Generally, UVB lamps are divided into 2.0, 5.0, 8.0 and the latest 10.0. The numerical value indicates the percentage of UVB output to the total output of the lamp (for example, 8.0 indicates that 8% of the total output of the lamp is UVB). The higher the value of the same brand means the higher the UVB output, but remember that the total output of different brands of lamps is different, so the 8.0UVB output of different brands is different. Generally, you can choose more than 5.0.

Many people will ask how many watts of lights are suitable. The bigger the feed box, the greater the wattage of the lamp. Theoretically, it is enough to choose a lamp with the same length as the feeding box. However, if the feed box is higher or wider, it may be necessary to add one or more lights. If necessary, a reflector can also be installed. Using reflector is 30~ 100% more efficient than not using reflector!

The light output of UVB tube is blue, while the light output of heating bulb is yellow. If only one UVB tube and one bulb can't provide white light like natural light, you need to add another tube that outputs pure white light (such as UVB2.0 or full-spectrum superlight). After use, you will find that the whole feeding box is full of vitality. Sufficient light can not only make the color of the chameleon more vivid, but also help it catch its head. /P & gt；

Chameleons need UVB and UVA, which helps chameleons to hunt and reproduce. Some light bulbs on the market say that they can output UVA. Many people misunderstand that these bulbs are UVA lights. In fact, the UVA output of these bulbs is very small, which is not enough for chameleons. But don't be afraid. In fact, UVB lamps will also output UVA, such as an 8.0 lamp, and the UVA output is generally 30%. So light bulbs don't need to be specially used for reptiles, because these light bulbs are mainly used for heating, and cheaper ordinary "spotlight" light bulbs are enough.

There is also a mercury vapor lamp. The output of UVA/UVB is much higher than that of ordinary UVA/UVB lamps. The light is pure white like natural light. After use, the color of chameleon is obviously bright, and it can also be used as a heating lamp, but the price is more expensive.

The sunshine duration is about 12~ 14 hours in summer and about 8~ 10 hours in winter. Finally, remember that the distance between the light source and the chameleon should be appropriate. Too far away from the lamp will reduce the effect, generally not more than 30 cm, but too close to the UVB tube is harmful to the chameleon's eyes. Many people put the heating lamp in the breeding box, and the chameleon can easily touch the light bulb, which is very dangerous. Heating the light bulb too close will burn the chameleon, and the hot light bulb is more likely to explode when it comes into contact with water! Therefore, the location of the bulb installation must be carefully considered.

Symptoms or problems: affect appetite, dull complexion, sleep during the day, etc.

4 Suitable water source

Water is very important to chameleons. A chameleon may get by without eating for 2~3 weeks, but it will become very bad without drinking water for 2~3 days! Many people say that they have never seen chameleons drink water, and they doubt whether they will drink water after all, but I can tell you that I often see chameleons drink water, and they drink it almost every day! If you haven't seen it, there may be something wrong with the way you provide water.

Many people know that chameleons can't drink water from a basin or still water. Although I have raised several chameleons who can only drink a basin of water before, they need long-term training to adapt, and there are only a few examples. Most people choose to pump air from the basin with an air pump or pump water from the upstream (rockery running water) to create "active" water to attract chameleons to drink. These methods are more convenient and do not need manual operation at all. However, most of these water sources are placed at the bottom of the box, which is ok if the feeding box is small. However, when it is large/high, the chameleon moves at a high place for a long time, so the chances of climbing to the bottom of the box to drink water are naturally less. But I don't think it's natural. The water source should always be clean.

In the wild, chameleons usually drink dew from leaves in the morning, or drink rain directly when it rains, so these two aspects should also be considered when providing water. I think the best way is to spray water. Generally speaking, you can use a sprinkler system or a watering can. Sprinkler system is the best method, which can simulate rainfall for a long time and can also be used to cool down in hot weather. It is fully automatic, but it is more expensive. Although manual water spraying is time-consuming and laborious, it is also the cheapest equipment, and its effect is better than rockery.

Spray at least twice a day for at least 3 minutes each time. It is best to use warm water. When spraying water, try to avoid spraying directly at chameleon (especially eyes). The sun only comes out in the morning and once at night. Spraying water in the morning is the most important thing. Chameleons like to drink water in the morning. Spraying water at night is to replenish the water lost in the sun at noon, and it can increase humidity and cool down at night. Spray it once or twice more in hot weather and winter when taking a dry bath.

If the chameleon is short of water, spraying water is the best way to replenish water! The water-deficient chameleon has sunken eyes and wrinkled skin. We can also know whether the chameleon is short of water by checking its feces. The feces discharged just normally should be soft, and the feces discharged by adults will be covered with a transparent liquid like protein. Short-term water shortage has little effect on chameleon. As long as it can be replenished in time, it can recover quickly, but long-term water shortage will cause irreparable harm to the body.

Symptoms or problems: affect appetite, sunken eyes, poor defecation, kidney disease and even death.

5. Food and nutrition

Crickets, cockroaches and Cao Meng can be selected as staple foods, while other species such as breadworms, corn worms, silkworms and suckling rats can only be used as supplementary foods, and suckling rats are only suitable for feeding adults, and should not exceed/kloc-0 per rat per month.

Some friends still find it difficult to find chameleon food. Many friends can't even find crickets, only bread bugs. If the breadworm is regarded as the main food of the chameleon, it is equivalent to letting it die slowly! Breadform is not suitable as a staple food because of its low nutritional value, indigestion, high fat and low water content. The possible problems of breadworms after long-term feeding include indigestion, various nutritional diseases and refusal to eat.

Adults can be fed once a day, each time is equivalent to 8~ 10 adults (it can be reduced to 5~7 in winter), and feeding is stopped every week for 1~2 days (it can be fed every other day in winter). Larvae can be fed 2~3 times a day, each time is limited to 15 minutes, and feeding is stopped once a week or reduced to 1 or 2 days. The actual amount can be adjusted according to the individual, and it is best to feed it to 7 ~ 80% full, which can greatly reduce the chance of indigestion or anorexia to a single food.

Feeding time is best at noon. Normal chameleons defecate within 1 hour after absorbing calories every day, and their appetite will naturally increase after defecation. Avoid feeding at night, because the temperature is low at night, which is easy to cause indigestion. Observe the feces of chameleons and understand their digestion. If you find that there is a lot of food in chameleon's feces that has not been digested, you should immediately reduce or stop feeding. Rula's loose stool indicates that the stomach and intestines can't work normally. All feeding must be stopped immediately and water should be replenished.

The chameleon's refusal to eat is the biggest headache for all friends, but this problem is not easy to solve for many reasons (including physical and psychological). The most common causes include indigestion, water shortage and various diseases. Psychologically, it is mostly because of feeding a single food for a long time, and the amount is too much. Never "force feed" until you know the reason. If the chameleon refuses to eat because of intestinal infection, "forced feeding" will only make the problem worse. This method is only suitable for those individuals who can't prey normally due to long-term hunger, eye or tongue injury, and other diseases or psychological factors are not suitable.

Because there are not many kinds of feed we can find, and most of them are artificially propagated, the nutrition of feed will be biased towards one aspect, lacking some trace elements needed by chameleon, so it must be supplemented with nutrients. General nutrients include calcium powder, comprehensive vitamins, bacteria and so on. There are two kinds of calcium powder on the market, one containing vitamin D3 and the other not. If the chameleon can be exposed to natural sunlight frequently, the chameleon can make D3 by itself, and pure calcium powder can also be used. Needless to say, comprehensive vitamins have different effects. Probiotics can increase beneficial bacteria in the intestine and help digestion, especially after indigestion, insect repellent or antibiotics.

Normal calcium powder once a week, comprehensive vitamins and probiotics once every two weeks, pregnant females can increase the number of uses, and larvae should be "a small number of times." But the above is for reference only, because it is difficult to know exactly how much is actually used. Please remember that the dosage of all nutritional powder should not be too high, otherwise it will be harmful.