It's very cold. How do turtles spend the winter?

For the overwintering management of family-raised soft-shelled turtle, soft-shelled turtle can be placed in an indoor water container and kept above 0℃. The stocking density can also be increased by more than 1 times than usual, which is conducive to raising a certain temperature. For example, it is a very safe way to cover the pond with plastic film without freezing the water. Appropriately deepening the water level also has the function of heat preservation. The simplest way is to put some foam plastic plates in the small pool, and cover them with straw, so that turtles can spend the winter safely.

"Artificial hibernation:

If you want to breed red-eared turtle successfully, the first step is to let him hibernate safely. First of all, you must make correct preparations.

First of all, the digestive tract of the red-eared turtle must be emptied, because the food left in the body will ferment, which will rupture the stomach wall and intestinal wall and lead to death.

The following methods can effectively empty food for red-eared turtles. First, stop feeding at least one week (preferably two weeks) before the temperature drops, and soak him in warm water for the last three to four days to help him clean up his feces.

It should be noted that if the tortoise is malnourished, haggard, weak and emaciated, don't let it hibernate. Usually, such a turtle will not store the necessary fat to maintain this period of inactivity. When the "fuel" is exhausted, it will die unfortunately. Therefore, breeders should try their best to ensure that their turtles are healthy and eat enough nutrition during the vigorous and active period.

Similarly, the newborn turtle should not be allowed to hibernate in the first winter, but should be kept warm and fed constantly. Young turtles are usually too fragile to survive even in a properly controlled environment. It is said that the mortality rate of newborn turtles in the first year is as high as 85%. Because he has no reproductive ability before he is two years old, it is best to keep him warm, continue feeding and keep him active for two years until he has strong physical strength to cope with the cold during hibernation.

After doing the above, the second step is to provide a place to hibernate. You can choose one of the following ways.

The first method may be close to the natural environment, but it is difficult for breeders to provide it. It is necessary to fill a large container with water and then put it into a mud bottom of about 6 to 8 inches (ws note: about 15-20 cm). The most ideal container used by the author is a plastic manger, because several turtles can hibernate at the same time (a container with a volume of 50 gallons seems to be the best) (ws note: a container with a volume of about 190 liters). Maybe you can use some plastic clothes.

The reason for using mud is obvious. Red-eared turtles will hide themselves like in the wild, but this way is dirty and may bring trouble to the breeder, but it can give the turtle a feeling of home, especially if your turtle is wild.

The second method, which means a little terrestrial, is to hibernate several turtles in a large container at the same time, or to put a thin layer of potting mud (about 1 inch) for each turtle or pair of turtles in a small container, then put the turtles in the container, and finally mix them with loosely mixed hay and water moss, and perhaps add some potting mud. This is a simulation of some turtles hibernating on land. Although this method is usually designed for box turtles (that is, box turtles or closed turtles) and tortoises, it is also suitable for some ze turtles. This method is more convenient for ordinary breeders and allows them to closely monitor turtles during hibernation.

When you settle your turtle, you must give it the right temperature. If it is too low, it will freeze him to death. If it is too high, it will make him hibernate in and out, turn on and off his metabolism, and accelerate the consumption of body fat, so that the turtle really can't sleep. In addition, the temperature that makes them hibernate should not suddenly drop, but gradually drop in two or three days. Usually, turtles of the genus Tortoise move around 80 degrees Fahrenheit (ws note: about 26-27 degrees Celsius), and the suitable hibernation temperature is about 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit (ws note: about 10- 13 degrees Celsius). This temperature seems to be suitable for the southernmost species, but it is even more dangerous below this temperature. The reason why the temperature can't drop too fast is that even the most bitter-tolerant tortoise is likely to die because it can't stand such drastic changes.

There are several ways to provide a suitable hibernation temperature, but if you live in tropical or subtropical areas, it may cost you. If the breeder lives in a mild climate like the author, it is easy to provide suitable hibernation temperature, and the winter temperature is the suitable hibernation temperature. Put your red-eared turtle in a room that is not easily affected by the heat in the house. Cellars and attics are ideal places. If the room you choose is not cold enough, you can open the window a little. If you are worried that the room will be too cold, you can use a small heater with a built-in thermostat. The author used to do this, and suggested it.

However, if the room temperature in your area doesn't drop to a temperature suitable for hibernation, it may be a bit expensive, and you may want to consider using those refrigeration equipment (the kind used by restaurants to refrigerate champagne is the best). The advantage of using this device is that you can create a suitable hibernation environment for your turtle at any time.

Things to consider after hibernation:

Just as you won't put your turtle into hibernation because of the sudden drop in temperature, you shouldn't take them out too quickly, don't take them out directly from the container, but warm the room first. If you can't warm the room, you can take the whole container out of the room and put it in another suitable room (note that such a large container filled with water is extremely heavy).

Let the temperature rise in a day or two, then take the turtles out by hand and let them return to their original residence. Usually, it takes them a day or two to readjust, so don't try to feed them before the fourth or fifth day. When they really start eating, make sure you give them more than they used to eat, so that they can recover to their best health and weight as soon as possible and the breeding process can go smoothly. "(End)

(This paragraph is about how to take care of the mother turtle after mating, the production process, how to handle the eggs, how to hatch the eggs, and how to take care of the young turtles, so I won't translate it; Also, I can't write fluently because I haven't studied translation. Please forgive me!

Because the Brazilian tortoise originally lived in the south-central part of the United States, the original text above may be very different from the temperature in the area where the turtle friend lives. The chapter is selected from the aquaculture article. The author expresses that hibernation is the first step to reproduce, so some articles talk about how to reduce the temperature to a suitable level. Perhaps the difficulty that turtle friends are facing now is that the temperature is too low. I have no experience of sea turtles hibernating, because it is not very cold here. Moreover, I used thermostats in the past two winters and this winter to keep the appetite and activity of my two Brazilian tortoises in the water, so please comment, supplement and share with my turtle friends, so that new turtle friends can get guidance and have a safe winter. )