Drunk, Beautiful and Colorful Guizhou (4)-Longli Ancient City (1)

It is inconvenient to go to Longli ancient city from town. Take the bus as far as Sansui first. Out of Zhenyuan city is the Panshan Highway. This road is bumpy. Last night, I don't know when it rained lightly. The potholes are full of water, and the places where there is no water are all mud. The road conditions are quite poor, which gives me a general understanding of the road conditions in southeastern Guizhou. It takes two hours to walk 47 kilometers. When the bus arrived at Sansui, it was said that the bus to Tianzhu was leaving at once. After unloading the luggage, it will go to Tianzhu by bus. The road from Sansui to Tianzhu is slightly better and faster than before. After more than two hours, I arrived at Tianzhu County at noon 12:30.

There is no bus to Jinping at the station where Tianzhu County got off. I took the 1 bus to the joint venture bus station, bought a ticket and went straight to the waiting room. Less than five minutes after getting on the bus, the bus left. It took more than two hours from Tianzhu to Jinping. At 3 pm, we arrived in Jinping County.

The bus from Jinping to Longli was not the place where we got off. The three of them walked to the old station with another fellow passenger carrying a big bag. After buying the tickets, because the 3:30 train was just full, we were transferred to the next train, and the train to Longli didn't leave the station until 4: 10. From Jinping to Longli, the road was bumpy. At 5: 50 pm, we finally arrived at Longli Ancient City.

From 6: 00 a.m. to 5: 50 p.m., I strolled all day and took four shuttle buses, and finally arrived in Longli from Zhenyuan. This is really not easy!

When you arrive in Longli, you should quickly implement your residence. It is said that there is an inn in the ancient city. We inquired about the ancient city all the way. Passers-by told us there was one at the south gate of the ancient city, so we went directly to his house. When I arrived at the inn, I looked at the guest room. It was clean, but there was no triple room. We asked for a standard room for three people, but the old man and the old lady refused to live in it anyway, saying that there was a rule in his family that three people could not live in a standard room.

After walking out of the inn of the two old people, we continued to inquire. Finally, the village team leader recommended Longxi Family Hotel, with double standard rooms, independent bathrooms, no air conditioning and electric blankets. After a long day, we finally settled down.

Settle down the day after tomorrow, it is completely dark. The ancient city in Longli is not comparable to the town far away. The whole city was dark, but there was no bright lights, and there was no place to eat in the restaurant. The three of them wandered around the ancient city with only a little light, and at the moment they didn't know how to send us this meal.

There are three streets in Longli ancient city. I walked around but couldn't find a hotel. There were only a few small shops, most of which were closed.

When I was walking in the street, I met several little girls, each with a bowl of food. I hurried forward to ask. It turns out that there are rice tofu sellers on this street. Great, just have rice tofu. Besides, I haven't eaten it yet. Let's eat "rice tofu" tonight. So, find a rice tofu maker quickly. It turns out that rice tofu is made under the plastic shed in this street.

Find a shed and ask the proprietress to make us three bowls of rice tofu. Although Liu Xiaoqing has made rice tofu a household name in furong town, it is the first time for me to eat it.

Eating rice tofu, two beautiful women came in to eat fried stinky tofu and bean jelly. This is the first time I have seen such a way to eat. After the two beautiful women left, we also asked the proprietress to get us a taste. This time in Guizhou, snacks will become the "main course" of our meals. Delicious, economical and with local characteristics. Why not?

Have you ever seen bean jelly fried? Three people bought one first, tasted it, bought it if it was delicious, and didn't eat it if it was not delicious.

Everyone has a bowl of rice bean curd, a fried bean jelly, a fried bean curd and a fried potato. You can continue walking on the street when you are full. The ancient town of Longli at night is very deserted, and only a few children are gathered around a cotton candy stall.

The alley was even quieter, except for the light at the door. Compared with the bright lights in Zhenyuan, it is surprisingly quiet and the contrast is great.

Looking up at the sky, a bright moon hangs high in the sky. Will it be sunny tomorrow? expect ......

In fact, there was no Longli ancient city in the previous plan, because there was no mention of Longli ancient city in several books I bought about my trip to Guizhou. When I revised the road book, I read a travel note of Guizhou written by Mu Xiaozi on the 8264 forum, and was immediately attracted by the ancient city of Longli he walked through. I checked the map and found that Li Zhilong is near Jinping, where we passed. So this time Guizhou must make a special trip to Longli.

The ancient city of Longli attracted me because of its original ecology and preservation, and because it was the product of Zhu Yuanzhang's stationing troops and guarding the border 600 years ago, just like Zhenyuan, which we just passed. What are the similarities and differences between them? It is this kind of inquiry and curiosity that makes me look forward to Longli's visit.

Actually, I was sucked in by the photo of Woodenhead in Longli, Guizhou. When my backpack entered the towering tower and the deep door last night, I knew that I would cross a time tunnel today.

Last night's dark search didn't see what it was like in Longli. Today, when we leave Longxi's home, we will visit it carefully.

From Longxi to the east, we came to the inner ring road of the city wall, and today's tour began here.

Longli greeted me in Aming. The first East Gate (Qingyang Gate) is a landmark building of the Ming Dynasty. Although this building in the early Ming Dynasty has experienced more than 600 years of wind, frost, rain and snow, it is still so amazing.

The appearance of Longli, like Zhenyuan, is entirely due to military reasons. During the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty (18), in order to eliminate the remnants of the Yuan army entrenched in the southwest, Zhu Yuanzhang sent six sons, Zhu Zhen, to lead the army back to Yuanjiang and enter Yunnan-Guizhou. The army marched along the way, wiped out a place and stationed troops in important places. Thus, Zhenyuan and Longli became two barracks guarding Hunan and Guizhou.

After Zhu Zhen, the king of Chu, led an army to suppress the local Miao and Dong peasant uprising, he established a local military organization here-Longli Garrison Thousand Houses, which belonged to Wukaiwei, the capital of Huguang. Since then, the descendants of soldiers who settled in the frontier have persisted and served as soldiers for generations. After more than 600 years of evolution, an ancient town with military defense and villages as the main body has been formed.

The existing ancient cities, from design to construction, strictly follow the operational requirements at that time. It is a military castle that can fight and defend, and its defense system is very accurate. Longli Ancient City is the product of the military system of Ming Dynasty, the product of the central government's strengthening the rule of remote areas and the infiltration of Central Plains culture into minority cultures since Ming Dynasty, and it is an important border town in Guizhou Province in Ming and Qing Dynasties.

The Ming government adopted the political policy of "high wall and wide grain accumulation", which triggered the third large-scale local city construction climax after Han and Tang Dynasties. Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the defensive ability and the ability to resist wind and rain erosion have been greatly improved compared with the previous rammed earth city walls. The present Longli ancient city wall was born under such historical conditions. It is a relic built in the Ming Dynasty and expanded in the Qing Dynasty.

Longli City Wall was built in the 18th year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty (1385), restored in the 2nd year of Yongle (1404) and rammed earth and laid pebbles in the 1st year of Tianshun (1457), forming the existing landscape.

The city gate is still there, and the city wall is still there. Today's Longli ancient city is no longer a famous ancient military camp and battlefield. This imperial city, this castle, is now in the silence of the mountains in southeastern Guizhou. It is like an ancient flute, telling the story of more than 600 years ago to future generations.

What has fallen into the arms of this mountain for more than 600 years is history. Everything in this ancient city is a chapter of this historical masterpiece. Every word, every paragraph, even every symbol requires us to savor it carefully with some thoughts before we can understand it.

By the early Ming Dynasty, the great unification in China's history was mature, and the looseness and weakness of the chieftain system could no longer be allowed to continue. After Zhu Yuanzhang ascended the throne, he left this important sum in southeastern Guizhou and southwestern Guizhou: there are command and envoy departments in the border area, with thousands of households; With the implementation of the military camp, farmers are also stationed in the army, "planting crops to support themselves", and there is no need to transport food in case of war. Military camps are located in the east of Guizhou, which can not only be used as the source of fighting against barbarian fires, but also be a fortress to safeguard one side's peace and national unity.

Because of this, the pattern of Longli is somewhat different from other ancient cities. It is said that the pattern of Longli was a microcosm of Nanjing, the capital of Daming at that time, but the master who built Longli gave up the stone slabs that could be seen everywhere in the local area and inlaid pebbles on the ground, making his sergeant jump fast all day. The pebbles are hard, and the vertebrae are tied to the pedals, so that you can take your time and not stand out. The truth of being born with worry and dying with happiness is expressed through the details of architecture. He can't be said to be a clever man.

There is another street in Longli that is different from other places. The crossing streets are all T-shaped. The local people said that because "ten" and "loss" are homophonic, they abandoned Cross Street and built T Street. In fact, this is still a military need.

Longli ancient city is divided into four gates, southeast and northwest, all of which have towers. The streets in the city are paved with pebbles and inlaid with patterns, and the south gate "centipede street" and "ancient coins" are the most typical examples.

Streets and alleys crisscross here, and buildings are neat and harmonious. Longli city is divided into four parts: east, south, west and north. The setting of the city gate is illusory, which makes people feel "clear and dark." The architectural style of Longli ancient city has realized the unity of heaven and man, and its advanced and reasonable planning and layout has left modern people behind.

Although Longli ancient city has experienced hundreds of years of wind and frost erosion and fire, the overall appearance of the city remains intact, and it is one of the best preserved ancient cities in the southern plateau of China. After a long time and relentless wind and rain erosion, it still stands, and its vicissitudes are a portrayal of the whole ancient city. People in the city still live in the same way. This is a "living" ancient city.

Longli ancient city has more than 20 streets, with obvious east-west axis and central intersection. The former site of Qianhusuo Yamen is the center of the city, with three main streets in the east, west and south, forming a structure with T-shaped street as the main axis. Important yamen and other buildings face south, and are closely related to the construction of the city defense system, with strong security (such as the north gate is not open, and the standby is safe). From the perspective of Feng Shui thought and military defense, the staggered connection of streets has the significance of "keeping calm", "avoiding disasters" and favorable defense. As a military castle, the word "ten" is forbidden in the city, but the word "ding" means "the population is prosperous and the city is always solid".

The three main streets in the city are divided into residential areas with six lanes and nine courtyards, which is exactly what the local people call the pattern of "three streets, six lanes and nine courtyards".

The local residents in Longli are mostly from the provinces in the south of the Yangtze River, mostly from Anhui, Jiangxi and other places, and their architectural forms and artistic techniques have obvious Huizhou architectural characteristics. The basic unit of a residential building is generally a two-story wooden building with a width of10m (three rooms) and a depth of about 8m. The building structure is a beautifully carved fireplace made of small blue tiles, surrounded by brick walls or mud walls and paved with courtyard bluestone. The bottom is based on local bluestone, the top is overlapped, and the end is made into a horse's head, commonly known as the "horse's head wall", which is beautifully decorated and full of vitality. The eaves are 30 cm above the water surface and adopt the form of "double ridge eaves". This is basically consistent with the architectural style of Zhenyuan. The difference is that Zhenyuan is a water city and Longli is a dry city.