Photography skills in different weather conditions

Photographers like dramatic weather. Rain, snow, fog, stormy sky-using the weather can add color to photos and help you convey a mood or emotion. Wet streets reflect neon lights, which look very different from abandoned houses in the sun. Fog will have more atmosphere than sunny days. Try to photograph the scenery near your home in different weather conditions and compare the mood conveyed by each picture. The following are the photography skills shared in different weather conditions for your reference. Welcome to browse!

rain

When shooting in the rain, find a sheltered place (such as a porch). Simply wrap your camera with an umbrella or plastic bag and leave a hole for the lens, because water may damage your equipment. Pay attention to the raindrops that fall on your lens or filter, and always wipe them clean.

Cure it or blur it.

To freeze raindrops in mid-air, use a shutter speed of1125 or higher. 1/60 seconds, the raindrops will lengthen, especially when you slow down the shutter speed. It is best to highlight raindrops in a dim background, but if it is impossible, try to include another clear object in the picture to show that it is raining-for example, an umbrella holder or water dripping in a puddle.

Tip:

If it's raining or just starting to rain when you shoot the city, go out-sparkling streets will add a lot of color to your photos.

The influence of rain

Find out how rain affects your photos. The leaves will shine, and the windward trunk will become dim because of the humidity, making the forest more dramatic. A farmer can stand in the field and watch the timely rain with a smile, while a businessman who is in a hurry may look unhappy.

snow

Ice and snow, like a beach, can deceive the exposure meter: bright white will lead to underexposure-because-don't forget-the exposure meter gets readings from 18% gray scale. The easiest way to compensate is to get a reading from a gray card or a landscape that you know is in the middle tone. Make sure it is in the same light as your subject, and the exposure meter will not read data in a bright background. If it's an important shot, use surround exposure.

If you have taken many photos of the same scenery, and you have determined the underexposure of the exposure meter, you can set the exposure compensation dial to automatic compensation. If your camera doesn't have such a dial, you can change the ISO value to "cheat" the exposure meter. For example, if you use ISO 200 film, the exposure meter reads F/ 16 at 1/250 seconds. From the grey card, the reading you get is F/ 1 1, at 1/250 seconds. Change the ISO value to 100 to compensate for the first gear. Remember, halving the ISO value doubles the amount of light needed to reach the film. Don't forget to switch back to the original settings after shooting.

If the weather is fine, come out in the early morning or at dusk. Low-angle sunlight makes snow show more details and textures than during the day. Avoid shooting when the sun is shining directly from behind you. Light reflected directly from the snow to your lens usually gives you a white effect.

If you film sports-skiers or sledders-look at the details of sports chapters and learn how to freeze or capture sports.

In very cold conditions, we should try to keep the camera battery at an effective working temperature. I usually put my camera in my coat, take it out when shooting, and put it back when I go to a place. Also remember that skin will stick to extremely cold metal, so tape all contact surfaces in advance. Don't forget the point where your nose touches the camera. )

On very cold days, don't forget the condensation phenomenon when you go back indoors. When you are still in a cold environment, seal the camera with a plastic bag, then heat the camera when you return to the room with heating equipment, and then open the plastic bag.

Look for the details that really explain "cold": a bird curled up in feathers, a child who just showed his eyes from a bright down jacket, the suspended breath in the air when two people talk, and the ice on his beard.

Tip:

Be extra careful when shooting falling snow with a flash. The flash will only illuminate the latest snowflake, but not the rest.

doubt

A ship suspended in fog, the smoke-water vapor floating on the lotus pond can produce a very impressive picture. Like snow, fog can deceive your exposure meter and flash. Some fog may be a perfect medium gray tone or its thinness is irrelevant, while others may be close to white. To ensure the correct exposure, get exposure readings from the subject, or, if you have a way, from a gray card. In dense fog, your flash may be reflected by water particles and cannot reach your main body, just as car headlights sometimes can only illuminate the fog but not the road.

If the fog is too thick, wrap your camera in a clean plastic bag. Pay attention to the fog and steam condensed on the lens.

When there is fog outside, don't be scared away by its dim light-diffuse light is very suitable for taking some emotional photos.

A stormy sky

When I saw the dramatic stormy sky, I ran around trying to find some interesting points in its foreground. The dramatic sky creates a feeling that you can't get from other scenes, just like classical painters do.

If you shoot sunlight through the clouds several times, be careful not to get the exposure meter reading from the light column, because you want it to be bright. The same applies when the white foam of generate hits the rock. Remember, if the sky is too dark, the exposure meter will be overexposed.