The climbing route of Haizi Mountain

Base camp: Tianhaizishan base camp is located at the end of the simple road, close to the mixed sea or a slightly higher pass. The camp is a local pasture, and there is a river near the flat grassland, which is convenient for camping. The altitude is 4 100-4200m.

Base camp-ABC: After the river from the base camp reaches the pass, it begins to walk up the gravel slope to the left. After the gravel slope reaches the top, you can see a ridge. Walking along the ridge, you can see two snow-capped mountains in front, Tianhaizi Mountain on the right and Baihaizi Mountain on the left. At the end of the ridge, you start to cross the gravel slope and camp near the glacier under Tianhaizi Mountain at an altitude of 4,700 meters. Due to the broken mountain, hard route and high physical consumption, the journey is about 6 hours or more (consider hiring porters in Old Yulin to help transport materials).

ABC-C 1: You can see the avalanche trough between Tianhaizi and Baihaizi Mountain from ABC. ABC began to climb along the C-shaped glacier on the left side of the avalanche trough, which is also a snow trough or an ice avalanche trough. When climbing a mountain, don't get too close to Baihaizi Mountain. There are often avalanches on the mountain, which is very dangerous. This route has two ice crack areas to pass through. The positions of C 1 are Tianhaizi and Baihaizi. Because this camp is located in the tuyere, you must take windproof measures when camping!

C 1-C2: This route is the difficulty of climbing! Starting from C 1, crossing to the lower part of the southeast of the glacier, starting to climb a vertical ice wall, and then reaching the starting point of the ice-rock mixing zone. The ice-rock mixed route has ropes and protection points left by Koreans. The rope has decayed and can't be used. It can only be used as a basis for finding a route. The protection point can only be used after inspection and reinforcement (Cao fixed it when climbing in May, but we found it loose after a summer in September! )。 This route is about 60 degrees and the total length is about 300 meters. Below is the avalanche trough, where you can see the ABC camp and the C 1 camp, which are extremely exposed. The end point of the ice rock route is an ice slope of about 50 degrees (Nine In the snow Slope). It is recommended to use street signs here to avoid getting lost when descending. After climbing five lengths of rope, you can find Camp C2. This terrain is a mixed slope of ice and rock, and there is no flat place, so the terrain is narrow. I had to dig out the camp myself. It is about 5400M above sea level (you can choose to climb the ice wall here, build C2 camp in C3, and reduce one camp).

C2-C3: C2 has an ice wall with a height of 50 meters and an inclination of 50 degrees. After climbing the ice wall, it is a slow snow slope. Here, we can choose to dig C3 camp on the snowy slope according to physical fitness and weather conditions, with an altitude of about 5600M m..

C3-Rushing to the peak: The route from C3 to the peak needs to be exposed on a steep snow and ice slope, about 50 degrees. There are two 60-degree ice and snow walls on the route, a small ice crack and a big ice pit covered with icicles near the top of the mountain. You can choose to climb from the ice slope on the south side, and you must protect it in groups. It is suggested to use road signs in this section to avoid getting lost when descending. The peak is the ice platform.

Tip: Teams with good physical strength and skills can consider partially repairing the ice-rock mixed route after arriving at C 1, and then get up as early as possible when starting from C 1, build C2 above the ice wall at an altitude of 5,400 according to their physical condition, and start from C2 early to directly rush to the top. Equipment condition:

In addition to personal equipment, you should also carry small ice cones, rock cones, snow cones, ice cones (you should bring more ice cones when climbing in May and more snow cones when climbing in September), road flags, connecting ropes and road ropes.