30-day weather forecast in Nepal

Among the five highest peaks in the world, Mount Qomolangma is 8848.86 meters above sea level, Jogory is 86 1 1 meter above sea level, Gancheng Zhangjia is 8586 meters above sea level, Lodz is 85 16 meters above sea level, and Makaru is 8463 meters above sea level. The other four mountains belong to the Himalayas, except for the main peak of the Karakorum Mountains. In addition, he has a more famous name K2, where K refers to the Karakorum Mountain and 2 refers to the second mountain in the Karakorum Mountain.

1In July, 954, two explorers from Italy climbed the top of Mount Everest for the first time, one year later than the first one. According to statistics, the death rate of climbers climbing Mount Everest is 4%, while the death rate of climbers climbing Mount Nikolai Gogol is as high as 29%. Therefore, Nikolai Gogol Peak is considered by the international mountaineering community to be the most difficult to climb among the peaks above 8000 meters above sea level. For such a dangerous and challenging mountain peak, it naturally attracts many mountaineering challengers from all over the world.

In 2008, mountaineers from all over the world went to the second highest mountain in the world with great interest, ready to challenge it. The best time to climb Mount Chogory is from May to early June. Generally speaking, in order to wait for summer, climbers will stay at the base camp for about two months. Can this group of people reach the summit, and what will happen in the meantime?

There are several camps from the base camp to the summit, among which Camp One is located at an altitude of 5,800 meters, Camp Two is located at an altitude of 6,700 meters, Camp Three is located at an altitude of 7,400 meters, and Camp Four is located at an altitude of 7,800 meters. The average slope of Chogory Peak is more than 45 degrees, which is a great challenge for climbers, but only those who can reach Camp 4 are qualified to challenge the summit of Chogory Peak.

In May 2008, hundreds of climbers set out from the base camp and headed for Camp 1 at an altitude of 5,800 meters. Soon they arrived at camp 1. There is a steep snow slope between Camp 1 and Camp 2. Experienced Sherpas need to climb the heights with ropes first, fix the ropes in the rocks with ice cones, and climbers climb along the ropes.

When the climber climbed to Camp 2 with ropes step by step, he saw a towering rock wall, which was called "chimney" here. There are rocks on three sides, and the gap in the middle is only enough for one person to go up and down.

From camp 3 to camp 4, you need to climb over the ridge edge of the southeast ridge. This section of mountain road is mixed with snow and rocks, with thick snow around it and bad road environment. Because of the strong wind on the mountain, the tent is easily blown away by the wind, so Camp 4 is also the last camp on the mountain climbing road.

On August 1 day, 2008, people had arrived at Camp 4 for many days. The weather forecast shows that the temperature will rise and the wind speed will be very low the next day, which is a rare opportunity to attack the top.

Just after zero, the Sherpa guide in the camp set out in the dark. They sat in the snow carefully, fixed the climbing rope, and prepared for the climbers to attack the top after dawn. At three o'clock in the morning, because there were not enough ropes, I had to go back to Camp 4 to get more ropes. As a result, the summit process has slowed down. Knowing this news, some climbers think that this day may not be suitable for the summit, so they choose to give up, but many climbers still insist on continuing to climb the summit on this day.

At eight o'clock in the morning, the climber slowly climbed to the top along the safety rope. Being in an anoxic environment for a long time makes it difficult to breathe with a little exercise, and it doesn't take long to start panting. Some people decided to give up after a long walk and go back to Camp 4.

At an altitude of 8,200 meters, a Serbian climber named Mandik unlocked his safety lock in order to speed up his progress. He accidentally stepped on the empty 100 meters and lay on the snow below. When rescuers arrived, Mandic had no pulse.

When rescuers tried to transport Mandik's body back to the camp together, a Pakistani porter named Berg looked wobbly and walked from side to side, which was a typical symptom of altitude sickness. Just then, Bigger slipped and fell off the mountain. After that, everyone gave up the idea of sending Mantici back to Camp 4. A climber from Serbia covered his body with a national flag and left sadly.

The climber who continued to attack the top moved upward and came to one of the most famous places in Chogory Peak-"bottleneck". This is the most dangerous section of Chogory Peak, with a slope of about 80 degrees. Not only that, there are huge ice cubes above the bottleneck, which are in danger of ice collapse at any time. Most of the accidents that happened in the Chogory Peak happened here. When the climbers moved forward carefully, they passed here without accident.

Through the "bottleneck", the highest point of Chogory Peak is close at hand. The peaks are pyramid-shaped, covered with dense fog all year round, and the steep slopes are covered with traces left by avalanches. At 4: 30 p.m., the first climber climbed to the top of Chogory Peak at an altitude of 86 1 1 m, and at 7: 30 p.m., the last climber climbed to the top. According to statistics, 18 people made it to the top on the first day. After the photo break, people began to evacuate downwards.

At this time, it seems that the good luck of the summit has been exhausted, and a terrible disaster is quietly coming to the climbers.

When the evacuation team passed the "bottleneck" again, the sudden ice collapse knocked two Pakistani guides and a Norwegian climber named Bay into the valley, and Bay's wife was behind him. The violent ice collapse destroyed the road rope laid by the mountaineering team at the bottleneck. After the descent route was cut off, the captain of the Italian mountaineering team and another climber began to descend for rescue without rope, and the rest of the climbers stayed where they were waiting for rescue.

Due to the delay of the rescue team, some climbers began to take risks blindly. In the early morning of August 2, there were still 8 people in the "bottleneck". Roy, a Dutch climber, found that his vision seemed not as clear as before. He knew that he was going to suffer from snow blindness, so he accelerated the decline. On the way, he saw three Korean climbers entangled in ropes, and some of them were hung upside down. The situation is very urgent, but Roy knows that his physical strength is exhausted. If he risks his life to save them, he may die.

Another Irish climber, MacDonald, also saw three trapped Korean climbers and rescued them immediately. Suddenly, MacDonald hallucinated from altitude sickness and began to climb to the top of the mountain. Another ice collapse at the "bottleneck" hit McDonald and the Pakistani Mehban standing next to him.

After Roy returned to Camp 4, he immediately turned to Sherpa for help, hoping that they could rescue three Korean climbers trapped in the bottleneck. Two Sherpas from Nepal, Zumikbert and Pashbert, decided to go to the rescue. When they came to the bottleneck, they found that one person was seriously injured. Even if we send him back to camp 4, there is little hope of living. In order to bring the remaining two people back, the injured climber can only stay here.

As we all know, as long as we leave, what does it mean to the teammates left behind? Their hearts were filled with despair, and the four of them walked down the hill with tears in their eyes. The climbers in Camp 4 watched them from a distance. There was another loud noise, and the ice brought by the ice collapse fell from above and hit four people hard. ...

This incident * * * has 1 1 climbers buried in the Chogory Peak, making it the deadliest disaster in the mountaineering history of the peak. The rest of the climbers returned to the base camp according to the original route and sent a distress signal to the outside world. On August 4th, Pakistan sent two helicopters to treat the injured, and transferred two injured people in urgent need of treatment from the base camp.

Today, Koguryo Peak still attracts countless climbers. At the foot of the mountain, there is a monument that everyone who comes here can see. Metal plaques are hung on the monument, and each plaque is engraved with the name of the dead climber. Their courage to challenge and climb has always inspired and warned later climbers. In the face of difficulties, we should dare to challenge, but we should also do what we can.