Pierre Cardin, Valentino, Playboy ... those genuine products that were "killed" by the shanzhai.

"'Kadan' is everywhere, and' foxes' are walking all over the mountain; The' master' was stolen and the' crocodile' traveled all over the country; Goldlion, sad! Worried! Hey! "

Wen | Zhou Qu

Edit | Jintang

Operation | Yifan

At the end of 2020, the head anchors have overturned. First, Simba, the "first brother" of Awu Express, was defeated by the fake bird's nest incident. Later, Luo Yonghao, the "first brother" of Tik Tok, set off another storm of selling fake sweaters.

Luo Yonghao said in the video that fakes have nothing to do with brands. Figure/video screenshot

From "One Hole" to the Overflow of Fakes

"Is that Pierre? Cardin. "

1994 in Zhao Benshan and Fan Wei's essay "My son is old", Fan Wei, who plays his son, mentioned this clothing brand founded in Paris, which received rave reviews. Zhao Benshan lifted his trousers, lowered his head, and picked his eyes to answer. "I can't get stuck."

Screenshot of picture/video data

Pierre? Kadan is walking in the streets of China. Figure/"Beijing Memory" screenshot

Become a root word between "testing the water twice"

Another common name is Valentino, which was originally a clothing brand founded by 1960 in Rome, Italy. Nowadays, the average unit price of high-end ready-to-wear in the world is higher than that of luxury goods such as Dior and Chanel. Valentino GARAVANI (Valentino? Glavani), Valentino is one of its transliteration.

In the late 1990s, Pierre? After Karting led the trend, more and more brands came to China to test the water. 1993, Valentino, founder of Valentino brand? Glavani held a large exhibition in Beijing with his haute couture and ready-made clothes, but he didn't enter China immediately.

1993, Valentino? Glavani took a photo at the Great Wall. Figure /cfp

In the early days, due to trade and tax restrictions, the sales channels of luxury brands were extremely complicated. Most brands adopt the mixed mode of direct sales in first-tier cities and development by agents in second-and third-tier cities, which also makes luxury retail extremely chaotic, with price gaps and easy counterfeiting to some extent.

Until 2004, foreign brands were no longer restricted by opening chain stores, and luxury brands gave up trading companies and trust companies that brought them to Chinese mainland and began to expand independently. This year, the Shanghai municipal government even asked all floors along Nanjing Road to be replaced by brand stores, and shopping malls had to hand over their venues to luxury brands.

But the damage already exists. Dai Chunhua, chief consultant of Guangzhou Baichuandao Consulting, once analyzed in an interview that during the ten years of the development of China's fashion industry, the agent's behavior of releasing water has been very low, even killing many international brands. Agents always choose to maximize their interests and do not maintain their own brands, so many brands have been made into rural brands.

"'Kadan' is everywhere, and' foxes' are walking all over the mountain; The' master' was stolen and the' crocodile' traveled all over the country; Goldlion, sad! Worried! Hey! "At that time, there was a jingle describing the plagiarism of internationally renowned brands in China.

But there is one brand that is not afraid of shanzhai, and that is Hugh? Hefner's Playboy.

Although Hugh has expanded products such as Playboy's clothes outside the media, when it comes to Playboy, the most famous is the photos in his magazines. However, this does not affect China Merchants' preference for Playboy brand. According to The New York Times 20 13, a year ago, China contributed 40% of the sales of Playboy. But instead of selling magazines, I was authorized by Playboy to print bunny's logo on T-shirts, handbags, clothes, shoes and accessories.

Playboy has been trying to get rid of the vulgar image and transform the company into a brand management company. However, Rabbit Ear logo is still one of the top 20 brands in the world, which is also the reason why businesses in China frequently want to be authorized. Current CEO Scott? In an interview with the South China Morning Post, Flanders once said: "Even though we haven't published a magazine in China, people still know what a rabbit is, but in the eyes of Asian consumers, our image has little to do with pornography."

Playboy's rabbit ear logo is highly recognizable. Figure /cfp

Huahua Company may not care whether the brand is damaged in China, but for Valentino, the damage is really unexpected.

In 2004, Michelle, then the global CEO of Valentino? Norsa announced "China Development Strategy" and officially landed in China market for the first time.

When Michelle. Norsa didn't understand that Valentino had been completely copied and turned into a universal root, and many small manufacturers began to scratch their edges. At that time, with the "xxx? Valentino and Valentino? Xxx "form, can be derived from more than 200 combinations, such as Valentino? Binu, valentino? Jordan and valentino? Louis, dear Carter? Valentino, Alliance? Valentino, even someone pieced together Valentino? Jordan.

These brands can appear in Xiushui Street in Beijing, Xiangyang Road in Shanghai, Baima Clothing City in Guangzhou and Yiwu Clothing Wholesale Market by adding prefixes and suffixes at will, and become an internationally renowned brand.

So Valentino's first test in China was not smooth. In the eyes of many people at that time, the brand was like Pierre? Like Kadan, it was flooded. In addition, there is another reason. In addition to VALENTINO GARAVANI, there are two foreign brands, MRAIO VALENTINO and GIOVANNI VALENTINO. The three brands signed a "gentleman's agreement" on brand use, which made it impossible for the brands at that time to register in China under the name of "Valentino", and also gave counterfeiters an opportunity. Finally, Valentino was defeated by various shanzhai in China and had to leave after three years.

Valentino, always sweeping the streets, always got a discount. Figure/video screenshot

Later, due to Valentino's internal difficulties, I was too busy to take care of the legitimate rights and interests of the brand in China. Until 2009, the new CEO and fashion brand director Stifano? Sasi announced that Asia and emerging markets will become Valentino's new targets.

On June 5438+065438+ 10, 2009, Valentino opened a new store in hang lung plaza, Shanghai, tested the water for the second time and returned to China. This time, it was a direct operation, deliberately keeping a distance from the "domestic Valentino", and even changing the transliteration directly, called Valentino.

Three shanzhai, defeated China

"Generally, customers who buy our things will not say Valentino, but they will not buy Valentino." A few years ago, a Valentino clerk said in an interview that she had been working there for almost a year, and from time to time, consumers would feel: "What did Valentino do now?"

When people lament how Valentino went from a mall sale to a luxury brand, Playboy and Pierre? However, Cardin fell down step by step.

Today, there are as many as 350 registered trademarks of Playboy in China, including the trademarks of Playboy, Playboy and Rabbit. During these 20 years, the general agent of Playboy in China changed frequently, which also caused many trademark disputes.

20 19, 1 In June, American Playboy sent a letter of authorization to its original authorized party, China general agent Shanghai Morphy Enterprise Management Co., Ltd., and the original contract should expire in June, 2025. Therefore, Shanghai Morphy Company sued Playboy Company and claimed 200 million yuan. Before the dispute was settled, Huahua Company authorized the brand to another Shanghai company.

The impact of this series of operations is that there are more and more "playboys" in the market, and it is difficult to distinguish between true and false.

Where's Pierre? As far as Cardin is concerned, it is not only difficult to distinguish between true and false, but also a dilemma. When the rich freshness of the early years faded, the market became more open and commercialized, and the dividends brought by the times were quickly taken away by the times. Because of the wrong business strategy, the brand was surrounded by shanzhai and almost killed itself.

Pierre? Kadan likes to call himself the first socialist in fashion. He realized the popularization of business mode, and the core of business strategy is brand transfer agent.

Pierre? 20 13, chief representative of cardan company in China, said Pierre? Kadan will "grant the management right to a local company, which will produce and sell." We will provide technical support, mainly design. Designers will communicate with agents and provide design drawings twice a year. "

In its heyday, Pierre? Cardin has 800 franchisees around the world. Authorization also leads to the diversification of products. In China market, there were 24 agents in 2009 alone, including more than 800 kinds of products such as men's wear, jeans, children's wear, bags, ties, umbrellas and towels.

However, considering the profit and return on investment, domestic merchants drastically cut prices and lowered quality standards, which also led to Pierre? Cardin has long since retired from luxury goods in China. Pierre Cardin, who said "clearance sale", is no longer the French "Pierre Cardin".

In addition to agents, there are endless shanzhai. If the fake Valentino took advantage of the "bonus period" when the brand tried to retreat twice, what about the fake Pierre? Kadan, the timeline is longer, from the late 1980s to today.

It is because of the proliferation of agents and shanzhai, Pierre? Cardan is getting cheaper and cheaper in the China market, and there is a 20% discount sign for 200 yuan in the supermarket. You can search for clothes at various prices online. Pierre? Kadan himself has no room for redemption. In 2009, he packaged some products from Chinese mainland and sold them to Wenzhou Jackie Chan Co., Ltd. composed of Wenzhou businessmen Pan Changhai, Sun Xiaofei and Chen Xiaofei for 37 million euros (about 370 million yuan at that time).

Perhaps no one is familiar with the name and boss of this Wenzhou company, but they have almost all the "trump cards" of the third-and fourth-tier town clothing, including "Goldlion", "Cardin Road", Italian DuPont clothing and "Cartier crocodile".

So, Pierre? Kadan's letting go also made it fall faster. For several years in a row, because of cashmere content, dyeing fastness, filler quality and other problems, Pierre? Kadan was named by China Consumers Association.

The quality deviation rate of Pierre Cardin silk quilt filler does not meet the standard. Figure/Consumer Association Information

20 18, Pierre? Kadan held a fashion show on the Great Wall to commemorate his 40-year love affair with China, but the response was not as good as before.

There used to be only rumors about luxury goods in the market, and consumers were interested in Pierre? Cardin's straight suit has a dim memory, and many people will only choose Pierre? Cardin's thermal underwear and thick socks, as well as the cuff marks that will be exposed in those years, have been printed on the edge of underwear and covered by many people wearing long pants.