Lanzhou people, do you still remember those terrible beef noodle restaurants that were popular in those years?

At school, I don't cook breakfast at home. My father gives me 70 cents a day. I have to eat the size of an ox before I go to school. There is a beef noodle restaurant at the gate of the yard. It was opened by Dayuan people in Linxia without a name. Because there is a 18-storey high-rise building next to it, everyone calls him a high-grade beef noodle restaurant. At that time, the beef noodle restaurant was not as high as it is now, with dim light bulbs, painted square tables and square stools. It contains the aroma of fluffy gray, and also contains the flavor of coriander (called coriander rock spike in old Lanzhou) and garlic seedlings. (Now the coriander and garlic seedlings are only for the visual effect in the bowl, and there was no taste at that time. ) Want a capillary, put less pepper, pour a little balsamic vinegar, and eat it later. Go to school, go to work, and the life of the day begins. ...

In the history of Lanzhou Beef Noodle Restaurant (this article mainly refers to the sixties and seventies), there is no such thing as red or not. When the noodle restaurant serves workers, peasants and soldiers, the lower the profile, the better. This beef noodle restaurant belongs to the state-owned system and is run by the government. Quality, standards and service standards are exactly the same. Eating in a store is the same as eating in a store, and the quality assurance and service standards are the same. Customers don't have to worry about spending money on bad meals, but all restaurants treat every customer seriously, treating customers as gods and children as innocent. For example, eating a bowl of ordinary beef noodles in a beef noodle restaurant may make you linger for life.

Beef noodles is a social custom in Lanzhou, which has a deep origin and has been popular for a hundred years. It is also one of the representative scenes of Lanzhou food culture. Nowadays, beef noodles can become a famous business card in Lanzhou. Objectively speaking, the sixties and seventies played a turning point in connecting the preceding with the following. As an authentic old Lanzhou native, I can't help but recall the dribs and drabs of Lanzhou Beef Noodle Restaurant in the 1960s and 1970s. Lanzhou beef noodles, which originated in the Qing Dynasty, were originally created by a group of poor craftsmen who made a living on the streets, represented by Ma Baozi. As a kind of halal snack, it has been tepid in Lanzhou from the Qing Dynasty to the early days of liberation, and it has not caused much waves, and even made a big splash in the country. People want to taste a bowl, which should be quickly dug up in the late 1980 s after the reform and opening up.

In the early 1950s, in the public-private partnership movement in Lanzhou, some private Muslim beef noodle shops and mobile beef noodle vendors on the street were centralized under the jurisdiction of Lanzhou Catering Service Company. Most of these public-private beef noodle shops are concentrated in Zhangye Road, Old Central Square, Qingyang Road and Jiuquan Road in Chengguan District, and they are the most prosperous commercial streets in Lanzhou. I recall that it should be two in Zhangye Road, two in Nanguan and one in the north and south of Jiuquan Road in Chengguan District. In the 1960s, these public-private beef noodle restaurants were completely transformed into public beef noodle restaurants, and the restaurants were named after the neighborhood names, such as Lanzhou Catering Service Company. Nanguan Cross Muslim Beef Noodle Restaurant, Xinqiao Muslim Beef Noodle Restaurant and so on.

There is a beef noodle restaurant that has a deep influence on my memory, and that is Xuanjiaxiang Muslim beef noodle restaurant. The north gate of Xuanjia Lane is opposite to the famous Yuebin Building Hotel on Qingyang Road. There is a fork road to the south of Xuanjia Lane, a road leading to San 'aitang Hospital, a road leading to Xiaogoutou to Lanzhou No.1 Middle School, and an intersection leading to Changjia Lane in the middle. Xuanjiaxiang beef noodle restaurant is located on the west side of the middle street, opposite to a sugar and liquor grocery store, next to a Muslim butcher shop and a wrought iron shop. This shop seems to be one of the few in Lanzhou that provides halal meat for a few people. Xuanjiaxiang Beef Noodle Restaurant is a street-facing building with no eaves. The shop is not too big. The front hall and the back kitchen are about three rooms, with a depth of eight or nine meters. There are more than a dozen square tables in the shop. These square tables have been soaked in oil soup and pickled water for a long time. You can't see the original wood, but it looks like a patina.

There was a long queue for noodles at the beef noodle restaurant. First, we have to queue up to buy a small ticket. I remember that the big bowl asked for three or two food stamps at that time, RMB 20 cents. The small bowl is two food stamps, 18 cents. Open the receipt and wait in line again. At that time, the traditional Lanzhou beef noodles were not like this at all. First of all, noodles are naturally pulled out after fluffy water and good noodles. Noodles are dark and buttery, not dry and white now. Noodles are chewy, but they taste like wheat and are easy to digest. The beef soup is turbid and light brown. Obviously, the ingredients of the original soup are thick, and a small amount of seasoning is used to make it, which is good for the original flavor of the ingredients. Xuanjiaxiang Beef Noodle Restaurant pays special attention to the mixing of soup and juice in cook the meat. I study in Lanzhou No.1 Middle School and pass the noodle restaurant several times a day. I was far away and smelled the smell of boiled beef. Unlike the current beef noodles, you can't smell any boiled beef except Chili.

Now I will introduce Lanzhou beef noodles. I like to describe them as "one clear, two white, three yellow and four green". In fact, the traditional Lanzhou beef noodles, at least, are not entirely this image, which is more vulgar and simpler than this description. These over-packaging are all over-description, which is somewhat exaggerated. In the sixties and seventies of last century, Lanzhou beef noodles fully reflected the characteristics of large noodles, less soup, more meat and delicious taste. They look neither clear nor white, but their colors are not bright, but they taste good. Although they are rough, they are far from being comparable to the current beef noodles in terms of affordable taste and quality. In the past, the beef noodle restaurant in Xuanjiaxiang only served a single beef noodle all day, and it was also true that there were no side dishes and egg cakes. The types of beef noodles are basically limited to two thin strips. In my impression, the customer didn't have what kind of noodles declare in advance wanted, but left it to Master Lamian Noodles to choose the recipe. And even if there were many people eating noodles at that time, they waited patiently for others to make room after eating, and rarely squatted on the side of the road to eat beef noodles.

At that time, Xuanjiaxiang Beef Noodle Restaurant was very popular and had a good reputation. Eating a bowl of delicious beef noodles in the shop is really a pleasant enjoyment. Although I am good at this, I can't do whatever I want. Of course, this has a lot to do with pocket economy, not to mention the limited supply of food stamps is so tight. It's just that 20 cents is the food cost of an ordinary family. A student in school can eat two or three times a month, and parents are enlightened enough. About one spring in the early 1970s, Lanzhou Catering Service Company organized employees of its beef noodle restaurant to go to Gaolan Mountain for afforestation and greening. Unfortunately, something happened. On the way down the mountain, these people rolled down from the top of the mountain in a car accident. It is said that most of the deceased were employees of Xuanjiaxiang Beef Noodle Restaurant. Perhaps it is too grief and remorse, or perhaps it is because there are no familiar craftsmen to support the normal operation of a beef noodle shop. In short, after this sad unfortunate incident happened and was reported by the news, Xuanjiaxiang Beef Noodle Restaurant, a subsidiary of Lanzhou Catering Service Company, quickly closed down, and people who liked this kind of beef noodles nearby lost a place to eat their fill, which was a great pity for those who liked Lanzhou beef noodles at that time.

In the late 1990s, on the west side of Qilihe Traffic Police Force, there was a Muslim Peng Hui Beef Noodle Restaurant named Haggaim Beef Noodle Restaurant, and the owner named Haggaim. That's a fragrant bowl. There were many people waiting in line in those days, and business was quite good. Especially in the morning, a bowl of noodles with a big cake is called pimping and pulling stones. As the name implies, I ate very hard and my back was hungry. Generally, poor people eat this set meal.

In the early 1990s, I went to Mazilu Beef Noodle Restaurant on the west side of the intersection of Jiuquan Road and Wudu Road. At that time, Mazilu Beef Noodle Restaurant had a small door facing north, with five or six tables and long benches. The entrance to the rice is on the east side, and the soup is thick and fragrant, but only thin, two thin and three thin. If you want a thin and wide noodle, I won't ask you again. At that time, people were very embarrassed, so they were very careful [covering their faces] [covering their faces] when eating. At that time, this store was very famous, and the diners were full. There were two long queues in the early morning. At that time, there was a very rare activity at Mazilu Beef Noodle Restaurant. Every morning, Mr. Mazilu is neatly dressed and sits at the door. The beard under the chin, looking ahead, I don't know: I thought the old man was meditating, but the knower: I know this is a celebrity effect, a living sign. That was the only one in Lanzhou that year! It's a pity that I'm stupid, I don't know about idolization, and I don't know that I should take a group photo together. It will be a blow if I put it aside. The honor of taking photos with Mr. Ma in those years is better than eating beef noodles for decades! !

There used to be a lot of beef noodles that were very popular. At that time, the network was underdeveloped, unlike there are so many online celebrities now. Fame can only be passed on by word of mouth, but unfortunately I have a bad memory and basically forgot it. I only remember these families.

Master Huang at the north entrance of Yongchang Road seems to be near Nanbinhe Road. At that time, Master Huang called it fire. I remember that the door was full of tables (at that time, the urban management was not strict) and there were people outside the store. When passing by by by bus, I often see a long queue at their door.

Ma Xueyou in Guangwumen, it seems that before 2009, Ma Xueyou next to the original Hollywood pie in Guangwumen also queued up every day, and the business was so good. Their family opened a shop at the other end of Jingning Road Qin 'an Road, which is also very popular.

Saddam Erre, this store was very famous in Erre area at first, and gradually Lanzhou people basically knew it. Rows of people squatting at the door with bowls are very spectacular.

The old Guoan, if it is now, must be a veritable online celebrity store. The store is not big, so there are many people and there is no place to waste. There are rows of cars parked at the door, and the scene is extremely hot. The shops in the middle of the road are also crowded, and the team at the end of the road has already lined up on the road.

Now there are more and more shops, and people who eat noodles are scattered. It is rare to see long queues in any store, and people have no time to queue up. If your family has a large population, it won't taste much worse if you eat next to it.

I ate beef noodles for the first time in the winter of' 79, 0. 18 yuan/two food stamps (big bowl), 0. 15 yuan/two food stamps (small bowl). It's delicious, and it's memorable after eating the soup.

The old man of the horse left, and the horse gradually turned sour. Now it's just like this.

Banpo beef noodles were finished when the old man left.

Saddam's beef noodles have not been eaten since 2000.

Malan beef noodles in Qiju stopped eating after 95 years.

Nowadays, beef noodles are just for fooling themselves and foreigners. They don't have the real taste of beef noodles. They are all seasoned. In 2005, I showed the beef noodle king several packets of seasoning and a pot of boiling water in Dazhong Lane, and mixed a pot of beef noodle soup. The boss and the person who scolded him on the spot didn't say a word, alas ... what a pity.

In the 1960s and 1970s, all the beef noodle restaurants in Lanzhou were state-owned and belonged to Lanzhou Catering Service Company. At that time, beef noodle restaurants were much less than now. You have to queue up for beef noodles in the morning. The more famous ones (all named after streets) are counted from the Cultural Palace to the east. There were big bowls (three pairs of clean noodles) and small bowls (two pairs of clean noodles) at Qiaotou (Tanleihe Xinqiao next to the Cultural Palace), Qiaomen, Mutaxiang, Xiuheyan, Central Square, Lanzhou Restaurant, Mass Market, Dacaishi and Shuangchengmen beef noodle restaurants, and the price was1. Later, the price rose slowly. At that time, the alkali was erigeron breviscapus ash (the erigeron breviscapus ash made by burning erigeron breviscapus was mashed into small particles, put into an enlarged pot and boiled with water for three times, and then the three decoctions were mixed together). Beef noodles have a unique taste.

Let me talk about the Heping beef noodle restaurant in Harbin's early years. In the 1980s and 1990s, there was a "famous Jincheng Marucang Beef Noodle Restaurant" near Shilidian Bridge (Peili Square). In those years, many people ate it, and then they stopped eating for some reason.

Then there were two companies, Feijiaying and Tao Hai Market. I can't remember their names, but they were very popular at that time. There is also the "Jinhua Beef Noodles" at the bridgehead of Shuiguazhuang, which has been around for some years, but with the development of society and the changes of the times, most of these old restaurants are gone. At present, the shuffling speed of the beef noodle restaurant in Anning is too fast. Every year, new restaurants open, close and change doors. The environment of the newly opened shop is indeed much better than in the past, spacious, bright, clean and hygienic, but the overall taste of noodles is also very different from the past. Many restaurants use machines to knead dough, and fluffy ash has also been replaced by Lamian Noodles. As for the original soup, in order to save trouble, it is mostly blended with monosodium glutamate and chicken essence, and it is difficult to find the previous taste.

It has been almost two months since I came back from the northeast for the Spring Festival. To my surprise, I didn't eat a bowl of beef noodles these days after I came back. I don't want to be greedy. Oh, my God! Am I still from Lanzhou? This was unthinkable before. Think about going to school in other places before, and the first thing to do after returning to Lanzhou is to get off and find a place to eat a bowl of beef noodles. That smell, that greed, really haunts me. But now, times have changed and everything has changed. I'm afraid the taste of beef noodles can only be left in the fragments of memory!

In the past, the beef noodles in Xiaogoutou 54 Grain Station were quite popular.

What impressed me the most was the Lanqingge beef noodle restaurant in the former central square, with a food stamp of 28 points ... It turned out that Mazilu tasted good when it opened on Wudu Road [chuckle], there was a state-run noodle restaurant in Jiandao Lane on Binhe Road, and there was a beef noodle restaurant in the north exit of Huang Jiayuan ... These are all my childhood memories, and now I can only stay in the deepest memory.

If the earliest beef noodle restaurant was the "dense" noodle restaurant that went to the park at Wuquanshan No.8 Road Station in the 1980s, then the beef noodle restaurant transformed from a simple room was nearby. The only difference was that there was a waterwheel transformed from an oil drum at the door of each noodle restaurant. That guy pulls his car to the entrance of Wuquanshan Park every day to pick up spring water for the noodle restaurant, and the noodle restaurant looks almost the same. Entering the noodle restaurant is divided into two parts, the kitchen and the dining area. The windows facing the street are all iron frames, and the wooden cabinets are used to put sundries against the wall. The long table in the middle can accommodate three people. During the day, guests eat, and at night, this is the buddy's bed. Mattresses and quilts are stored in wooden cabinets. The ground is paved with red bricks or blue bricks. The table is very high and the stool is very long. Each bowl of noodles costs about two or three cents. People nearby can carry a bowl of noodles with five or six 50-cent steel spatulas. Because they are all coal fires, the environmental sanitation dare not compliment the taste. Lamian Noodles's master grasped the temperature at any time while adding coal in the second half, wiped his hands with an apron and immediately picked up the flour agent. Everyone had no opinion ().

When it comes to delicious beef noodles, we should count the beef noodles in front of the old Lanzhou cigarette factory, because the beef noodle shop in the south of Lanzhou cigarette factory is called the big beef noodle shop, and the one in the north is called the small beef noodle shop. Let's focus on the big beef noodle shop, which is the one in the south. Exterior walls are painted with white lime and doors and windows are painted with green paint. It feels weird now. At that time, everyone used to write "Jiuquan Road Beef Noodle Restaurant" in red paint at the front door. The dining area is large and rectangular, with a square table for four on both sides and a passage in the middle. At that time, it belonged to Jiuquan Road Catering Company and was also a well-known "state-owned enterprise". The taste at that time was one of the best in today's hot words, that is "

There is also a "Lanqingge" beef noodle restaurant opposite the post office at the entrance of the provincial government. Every day, customers are crowded with diners. At that time, there was a cartoon "Niu Lamian Noodles" sculpture at the entrance of Lanqingge Beef Noodle Restaurant, so that people who ate on weekends could row out of the window to the road outside the noodle restaurant. ...