Sun Xinsheng: Travel Notes of Central Vietnam (18) Dalai, a summer resort.

The essence of Daxie City lies in Chunxiang Lake. This banana-shaped lake appeared with the completion of a dam in 19 19, and its name is to commemorate Chunxiang, a Vietnamese poetess who resisted tyranny in 17 century. The lake is located at the lowest altitude in the whole city, and many streams flow in. The lake is clear, the forest path on the shore is quiet, and flowers and plants are everywhere.

On the east side of the lake is a low hill with a snail-shell-shaped and pink museum on the hillside. There is a 7-kilometer-long asphalt road around the lake, which has become a part of the main road of the city, passing through squares, hotels and golf courses along the way. There is a wide isolation belt between the main city and the lake, extending from northeast to southwest. The urban area is small and slightly undulating, dotted with many elegant villas during the French colonial period. The main buildings are newly built in recent years, and most of them pay attention to maintaining the same style as before. Of course, there is still a clear gap between exquisiteness and aesthetics.

The Catholic church is small and exquisite, which is very suitable for the green old post office and foreign small foreign buildings. The "Palace" of the last Vietnamese emperor Baoda is hidden behind this group of buildings. Obviously, the building is old and needs to be repaired, but the imperial seal, military seal, imperial flag and military flag are all placed in the room where it was in charge of state affairs, which is impressive without losing the majesty of the last Vietnamese dynasty.

There is an elegant villa area in the northwest of the city, where shrubs and grasslands have been trimmed and it is a good place for leisure. I spent 65,438+0 hours visiting two Zen temples in Han Dynasty, one is Chikulin Temple, and the other is Fu Ling Temple, both of which are near the lake and back to the mountain. There are few pilgrims at night, so it is lonely and quiet, full of Zen.

More than a hundred years ago, hirson, a French scholar, explored the southern section of the Changshan Mountains in the hinterland of zhina, "looking for him in the crowd", and finally chose Date Town, a blessed place on the plateau, as his base for studying geography and biology, and then attracted similar people for commercial development. It became a summer resort, not only because the wilderness here is flat, but also because there are many beautiful peaks, gullies, running water and waterfalls not far away, with a moderate location.

But more important is the climate. Tropical climate is a sad barrier for westerners to colonize tropical areas, and it is also a direct incentive to develop these summer cities. For example, Britain developed Darjeeling in Kolkata and Simla in New Delhi. Rhodes Murphy, an American historian, said: "The government that manages all India was located in Kolkata until 19 12 years ago, but in the hottest months of summer, it moved to the cool foothills of the Himalayas." "

The tropical environment is a test for them, which is seriously harmful to their health, especially because the upper class requires them to wear a full set of woolen clothes as at home, overeat and drink a lot of wine and whisky. "West Renye Fang was not immune from endemic diseases, and their amazing deaths continued into the 20th century." "About half of them can return to China alive." Yersin discovered Dayu in the geographical sense, but the survival needs of westerners brought the power of Dayu's commercial development. Daxie has given low latitude and lowland Vietnam another face, another world: the tropical heat is no longer hot, but it is warm as spring and the autumn night is cool.

A city is like a flower embracing a lake, and half of the city is covered with green hills. It is rare to find such a cool world at such a low latitude. After the overlapping mountains, it is still a plateau in a tropical climate. Although this place is so "pocket-sized", it is called "Xiyuan", but there is a flash between the high and long mountains and the narrow coastal plain. The Creator gave Vietnam a fairly wide platform to look at the mountains and the sea, and let the central part of Vietnam look down at the downstream in the shape of a pole when the Mekong River is coming to an end, which makes people shine. Tens of thousands of square kilometers of "stunners" were born, which undoubtedly increased.

The successive dynasties of Annan, which gained independence, invaded and conquered Bova all the way to the south. At the same time, they also claimed to be the leaders of the "sub-cultural circle" and developed westward under the banner of "changing China for foreign countries", reaching the southern end of Changshan, a "wild" place where dozens of small and weak ethnic groups live together, taking Xiyuan as the bag. This inevitable process of the evolution of ancient civilization greatly increased the depth and hinterland of Vietnam, and easily divided five provinces in Xiyuan.

Daxie, known as the "Pearl of the Plateau", is the capital of Linnai Province, located in the southeast of Xiyuan area. This summer resort developed by the French has not been eclipsed by the withdrawal of westerners from the rule. On the contrary, it has become the favorite of Vietnamese tourists because Vietnam, especially its southern region, has emerged from the crisis in the past decade and has been developing continuously.

In the early morning, we strolled by the sparkling spring lake. The air is fresh and the scenery is pleasant. I met four or five groups of young men and women in glamorous wedding dresses in succession, and the photographer was leaving beautiful pictures and smiles for them. This unforgettable moment will be the starting point for young people to enter the marriage hall. No wonder the shopkeeper told us that Daxie's nickname is "honeymoon capital". Dayu in March is far from entering the tourist season and will usher in the climax of passenger flow in midsummer. Foreign tourists may prefer to spend their time in the soft beaches and scenic spots in Vietnam, but the numerous lakes, waterfalls, evergreen forests and Yuan Ye around Daat still attract the attention of some people who like outdoor activities. Xiao Qin said that Dalai often becomes the first choice for white-collar workers of foreign-funded enterprises in Saigon during holidays.

There is also a densely populated area of ethnic minorities around Datuk, Vietnam. Most of the aborigines speak the Mon-Khmer or Malay languages, and many of them are of the same race and language as the aborigines of Laos and Cambodia on the west side of Changshan Mountain. For example, Sting, Ma and Ma all speak the tribal dialects of the Mon-Khmer family, with their own unique customs and languages, and some still retain the characteristics and traces of matriarchal society.

Later, Miao, Yao, Dai, Zhuang (called Dai and Nong in Vietnam) and other ethnic minorities who originally lived in the south of China or in the border areas between China and Vietnam moved south to Xiyuan along the east side of Changshan Mountain, and maintained a interdependent and harmonious relationship with indigenous peoples and ethnic groups. After entering the market around the lake, we went to a rice noodle shop for breakfast. Many old men and women are sitting on benches drinking tea and chatting, just like the old people in the Pearl River Delta region went to a small shop to have morning tea in the 1950s and 1960s. I'm all too familiar with this situation.

The translator is from Guangxi and knows Zhuang language. He told me quietly that many of these old people speak Zhuang language. I asked him to talk to them in Zhuang language. It turns out that these old people are all Nong people in Vietnam. Their ancestors went to Vietnam with Liu Yongfu's Black Flag Army to participate in the Anti-French War. After Liu Yongfu was ordered by the Qing court to lead the main force of the Black Flag Army into Taiwan Province Province, many foot soldiers and their families stayed behind, huddled with the Nong people who originally lived on the Sino-Vietnamese border, and became Vietnamese residents. Most of them originally lived in Xuanguang, Ampere and other provinces, and moved to Xiyuan in the 20th century because of water storage and other reasons.

The Nong and Dai ethnic groups in Vietnam are the same ethnic group as the Zhuang ethnic group in China, but they are separated in China and Vietnam. The difference between Nong people and Dai people depends on the length of time they have lived in Vietnam. Dai people who have lived in Vietnam in history have migrated to Vietnam in the past 200 years. Dai and Nong have now developed into the two largest ethnic minorities in Vietnam, with a population of 16263926 and 968800 respectively according to statistics in 2009. The Laki and Shanzhai ethnic groups in Viet Nam are also a branch of Zhuang nationality in China.

In the Tang Dynasty, in the 6th and 7th centuries, the ancestors of Zhuang nationality were called "Xiyuan people" in history books. At that time, they lived and moved in the rivers on the left and right. At this time, they were still counties in China. After Vietnam's independence, there has been no demarcation for hundreds of years, or the demarcation is unclear. The activity scope of "Xiyuan people" is the border area between China and Vietnam after demarcation.

I asked the old man, do you still worship agricultural wisdom? They said, of course, he is our ancestor. In the Northern Song Dynasty, the leader of Zhuang ancestors, Nong, who was anti-toe and anti-Song, still had an unshakable position in the minds of Zhuang people.

In Dalai City

The first demarcation of the Sino-Vietnamese border was in 1078- 1084. The Collection of Transcripts of the Song Dynasty reads: "On the 9th day of the first month of Yuanfeng (1078), Li Gande, the toe-crossing king, said: Fu Mengci Chen wrote a letter and was reinstated from now on, which made the officials of the appeasement department draw a clear line, so there was no infringement ... On the 12th day of the first month, the Minister of Communications said in Guangnan Road: ... Yesterday, I sent people back ..." "Jia nine years is 1028.

Although the border has been demarcated, border people can still travel freely, mainly because the demarcation was rough at that time and many border lines were blurred. People on the Sino-Vietnamese border have freedom of communication because neither side set up checkpoints at that time, and the new Annan dynasty was just established, which did not form effective jurisdiction over the border.

At present, there are 54 ethnic groups in Vietnam. Jing ethnic group, also known as Yue ethnic group, is the main ethnic group in Vietnam, accounting for 86.2% of the population. The other 53 ethnic groups are all ethnic minorities. Among them, 26 ethnic groups in China and 13 ethnic groups are cross-border ethnic groups, such as the Yi people in China, which are called Luoluo, Pula and Bubiao ethnic groups in Viet Nam. Dai in China, Thai and Lu in Vietnam; Yao people in China are called Miao, Batian and Shanyou in Vietnam.

There are many reasons for the formation of cross-border ethnic groups in the two countries, including aborigines who were divided into two countries after the national boundaries were divided, and some who migrated from China, or from China to Laos and other third countries, and then to Vietnam, and some who migrated from Vietnam to China, such as the Jing ethnic group in Fangcheng and the Hui ethnic group in Sanya, Hainan.

At 1 1, I left Dade City for the airport.

Near noon, the sun is warm and the coolness of the morning disappears. People take off their thick windbreakers and dress themselves up with beautiful shirts as if they were welcoming early summer. The temperature difference between morning and evening in the plateau is great, which makes people excited about the change, and at the same time, it is changing the plant varieties on the Xiping plain. The French introduced varieties of flowers from western Europe, mostly orchids, and also cultivated a wide variety of anchovies, which were particularly pleasing to the eye. Now they are becoming the masters of Hua Dan's local flower export, and only one or two hundred years later, they have changed the local people's planting habits. In an instant, the thick soil layer suitable for planting far away from the city is occupied by open-air gardens and greenhouses in white plastic greenhouses.

The car goes all the way down, except the hills, which are basins, sparse pine forests, wormwood on the plateau, patches of tea gardens, countless streams and ever-changing scenery. It's hard to imagine that this is the area of north latitude 12 degrees, which is quite different from the tropical scenery with dense trees and misty clouds, just like being in a temperate zone with spring all the year round.

About 30 kilometers away, we came to a large plain. Except for a few hills in the central uplift, all places are wilderness plains, which is a good place to build an airport.