The dishes of ancient restaurants.

How did the people in the Song Dynasty eat out?

In Qin, Han, Sui and Tang Dynasties, many banquets always seemed to be family banquets. Moreover, even in the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, our nation also had a curfew, and the Lantern Festival occasionally lasted for three nights [in the period of Yang Di the Great, it lasted for half a month, which was a much-told story]. What do agricultural societies usually do when they have activities at night? Just spend it on eating, drinking and watching lights.

The curfew was not completely lifted until the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty. Therefore, the catering industry has undergone structural changes.

1) Two meals become three meals.

In ancient times, people in China basically had only two meals: one at noon and one at night; It basically corresponds to the time when farming begins and ends. If soldiers March, they will do it in one breath for six or seven hours between meals. So you can often walk a long way and arrange the sentry to rest after sunset. But in the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, with the lifting of the curfew, the nightlife of urban residents suddenly became a topic. So many people get into the habit of having another meal at night.

Note that the time for three meals at that time was still different from today. The 9: 00 to 5: 00 we are studying now is the earliest standard set by Britain after the industrial revolution, and it has gradually influenced all over the world. There are exceptions.

2) The emergence of restaurants

People in the Tang Dynasty were faced with the arrangement that they had to spend the night outside if they traveled at night. People in the Song Dynasty can go home calmly after dinner at night and don't need to spend the night outside. The catering industry is very prosperous at night.

"Tokyo Meng Liangzhi" records that Kaifeng is full of restaurants, and there is a ring building in front of the door. The corridor in the building is where prostitutes wait to be summoned. Usually they wear heavy makeup and wait to perform songs and dances for the guests at dinner anytime and anywhere. Hundreds of years of private banquets have given restaurants a theme. Look at how those bureaucratic chefs came to society. Unfortunately, records of this are rarely kept. The source of the chef can't be verified, and it won't be Ai Qing of New Oriental.

3) the business model of the restaurant

Comparing the restaurant at that time with the restaurant now, we will find many inconsistencies. First of all, there is no such thing as not eating foreign food. In fact, the owner of a big restaurant may just be the landlord of this restaurant. Like compassion, Jiang Menshen. There are countless bartenders, tea doctors and brokers interspersed among them, selling their own snacks and side dishes.

Fan Lou is a family very close to the market. Appeared in Water Margin and Meng Lianglu. In a few words, there is no shortage of its figure: there is a story about a man and a woman who love themselves, an ordinary citizen. This male citizen is a bartender in Fan Lou, who sells wine with his brother in Fan Lou.

Meng Lianglu records that in the Song Dynasty, the petty bourgeoisie in the city almost stopped burning warehouses. Eating is basically done outside. And the snacks outside are really delicious, and there are many kinds.

4) Catering industry

The restaurant is a luxurious place, and they compete to use luxurious appliances. Generally, after sitting down, you will take out chopsticks and vegetables. These utensils are basically silverware. Order some more dishes, which are also in silver pots. Would you like some wine? The silver pot is warm.

You know, we haven't started to popularize liquor in the Song Dynasty, and people are basically still drinking yellow wine. Song people like to drink hot wine. What if the wine gets cold? Nothing, there are several sisters-in-law who open a charcoal stove there to keep the wine warm. This charcoal stove is similar to the pattern of Xinjiang mutton skewers on the road. The sister-in-law who scalds wine has a special name? One is bad. "Is one of the 360 lines at that time.

Those silver plates are expensive. However, the restaurant is very comfortable with customers and gives enough face. Even if you don't want to eat out, you still want to treat at home and order food and drinks from the restaurant. They will also deliver silverware and plates to your door. It was not until the next day that the buddy came to get it back. Speaking of which, it suddenly occurred to me that my family still has a big basin, which was given by my boss's wife when I ordered the stamped pepper fish head for takeaway in the store. I haven't urged it for several weeks, and I said I would pick it up next time. Quite antique.

5) plates with wine

With wine, what is the appetizer? There are too many recipes in Song cuisine to copy. Usually, a person will have the opportunity to eat more than forty dishes at a banquet. There are several books, such as Meng Lianglu, including the banquet menu of Emperor Gaozong and Qin Gui. The names of Yuanyang and Wuzhen in The Legend of the Condor Heroes are also impressive. It seems that Jin Yong probably didn't know what it was, so Hong Qigong, who borrowed the sculpture, secretly went to the Southern Song Dynasty Palace to steal food to satisfy his craving.

What do people drink with? Let's open a novel. You can find a lot, such as oil dealers monopolizing Huaji, Qin selling oil to Huajifu's house and waiting for Mrs. Huaji to come back, and pimps treating each other with wine.

First, I ate a fruit and pressed the wine. Note that fruit is not fruit. This word is still used in Japan, just a series of snacks. For example, Shao He's gong. Then at night, I drink the wine in the thermos. Warm pot is hot pot. It's probably just a small casserole Heat it with some charcoal, put some meat dishes, or press the wine.

Here comes the extreme example. Yu Mou, the son of Sichuan, rushed to Hangzhou to take the exam, but he didn't get the first place. There is no money to go back to Sichuan at all, so I am going to eat a good meal and commit suicide by jumping in the West Lake. So I asked Xiao Er to take care of it. As a result, the bartender just brought all kinds of fresh fruits and seafood and ate them from noon until evening. It takes five taels of silver to settle the bill, which is equivalent to one person eating nearly two thousand dollars! Admire.

6) people who eat wine

People there generally don't turn on the stove at home. -Meng Lianglu.

As a citizen of the capital of song dynasty, you will have a nickname: the proud son of cage sleeves. This is a term used in the Song Dynasty, but its meaning is obvious even now. Becoming an urban resident in the Song Dynasty is simply a great blessing on earth. It was windy and rainy, and the government distributed relief supplies. Often at the end of the year, the court will suddenly waive your rent. There is also a story in the history of the Song Dynasty: Kaifeng's palace was to be expanded, so it negotiated with the residents in the north of the palace. But the residents there were unwilling to move away, so Kaifeng in the Northern Song Dynasty had the smallest palace in history. It is equivalent to the government of our time.

Happy ordinary citizens have been immersed in their happiness for centuries. So, on the other hand, when the Song Dynasty perished, there were a lot of oral folk literature. There seems to be no ordinary citizen ratio comparable to that of the Song Dynasty in all previous dynasties, so there were also the most refugee uprisings before the end of other dynasties. A poor society does not seem to feel the pain of regime change. Not in the Song Dynasty.

That is beside the point. Happy ordinary citizens don't fire. Both meals will be settled outside at three o'clock. There are also court administrators and national factories in the city (no one has recorded that the front of Kaifeng Palace is a banknote printing factory, right? There can be hundreds of employees, monks and businessmen. At the same time, ordinary citizens are loitering. Look at the Qingming Riverside Map. In the bustling market, there are always some people who are leisurely and stop to watch. They are ordinary citizens of this city, watching new things at their doorsteps.

7) A day in Tokyo's petty bourgeoisie-morning

At the fifth watch, you will hear someone knocking at the iron plate or wooden fish outside the door. This is the early monk in the city who wakes up the sleeping city door to door. There were a large number of them, and everyone had his own piece of land, so the city soon woke up.

Instead of stars, candles and torches are used. Many shops have opened. There is an early stall that provides 20 pieces of lung tonic, fried lung, porridge, rice and snacks. There are also shops selling facial wash soup? If you are not in the mood to light your own stove and boil water, you can go to these stalls to do cleaning work.

Booths for frying tea soup and medicine also appeared. Then there are slaughter stalls (our family was lucky enough to see these stalls in Henan, Shanxi last year, and their scale and schedule have a tradition of thousands of years) to slaughter and sell animals in the street. At this time, fruit and flour are still bundled into bags. They are all bought as raw materials and become delicious food at lunch and table. Finally, there will be a leisurely midnight snack.

Monks who wake up in Tokyo will also sit down in the market and start begging. It's morning. One noisy morning a thousand years ago. Dawn broke in a busy atmosphere and ushered in a new day.

7) A day in Tokyo's petty bourgeoisie-daytime

Tomorrow is the Bath Buddha Festival, and colleagues in Hong Kong can actually enjoy their holidays. Envy. Japan gave up the lunar calendar and now uses the solar calendar, just after April 8 of the solar calendar. This day is of great significance to Buddhists, but colleagues in Chinese mainland can't enjoy it. But you, the petty bourgeoisie of the Song Dynasty, even if you are not a Buddhist, you still have a lot to do.

First, you go to the Big Buddha Temple to watch the Buddha bath, and you get the "Buddha bath water" prepared by the temple for you-not the clear water for washing the stone Buddha, but actually the sugar water fried with spices. 1April 8, 998, Zanga received some sweets from Buddhists on the streets of Tokyo, Japan, and its ancient style still exists today.

The weather is Xia Meng, with a clear air sequence and willow flowers. Everything makes you happy. You know, there is another kind of fun waiting for you. Is it time to try new wine? Because today, it is the day when seventy-two restaurants in Tokyo start selling boiled wine.

Try green apricots and cherries [my wife just bought them today and just tasted new ones]. The fruits are peach, plum, apricot and forest (that is, apple, which is still used in Japanese). Is this an era with "floating melons and sinking plums"? Watermelon is also on the market now. But at that time, watermelon had just spread from the western regions to the territory of Liao, but not to the territory of Song. The apple has not been improved, it should be very small, which is the kind of little thing we call Huahongguo today.

However, the new market is just fashion: eggplant. This thing is interpreted as a gourd. Cuckoo doesn't know if it is. All I know is that this thing is very popular in Donghuamen Royal Exclusive Market, and it has been fired at a high price. Right? ] is worth 30,000 to 50,000. This is several thousand dollars.

9) A petty bourgeoisie eats out during the day.

The hot and dry day is finally coming to an end. You've already eaten at three or four, the traditional second meal. According to the rules of the first dynasty-that's what you called the Tang Dynasty-you should wait until curfew. But now you don't have such a memory, of course you know there are interesting projects in the evening. So your bath water smells better. In the evening, you washed away the glitz of the day and powdered it-yes, the A Bing brothers in the Song Dynasty will get incense as part of his salary.

Impatience has begun to stroll in the streets in the evening. The originally clear street fell apart in the twilight, and the scene slowly melted into one light after another. You and your friends look for your favorite restaurant together.

Fan Lou's article has already mentioned this point. Its reputation has been circulated in the Water Margin. As a local, you must know more:

Renhe Store and Ginger Store in the Eastern Song Dynasty, Yicheng Building, Zhang Yao No.4 Store and Banlou in the Western Zhou Dynasty, Liuxia Building in the Bridge, Barbarian Wang Zhai in Caomen, Zhang Family in Zhizhong, Eight Immortals Building in the Northern Zhou Dynasty, Zhailomen Zhangbajiayuan Zhaizheng Store, Zhengmenhe Store, Liqijiazheng Store and Changqing Building in the east wall of Jingling Palace. There are 72 stores in Zheng Jing, and the rest are called "foot stores", except those that cannot be counted repeatedly.

But you will probably go to your favorite Fengle Building.

This century-old shop is located in Xingjie Ma, the largest street in Tokyo, and it faces the Imperial Palace in the east. During the reign of Xuanhe (it is said that when the water margin began to make an insurrection, it was just the peak of the Northern Song Dynasty culture), three floors were built to form a hotel group. The fifth floor is opposite, "each has a flying bridge sill, light and shadow are connected, bead curtains are embroidered, and lights and candles are illuminated."

A few days after the renovation and reopening, the guests who came first gave a gift certificate, which was a gold flag. On the Mid-Autumn Festival, a lotus lantern was put in every tile house in the building.

Just because it was too close to the palace, the West Building was later banned. It turned out that their building was built higher than the palace wall, and they could directly see what the emperor's family had done.

Only in this intimate environment can you understand that Song people would call the emperor a housekeeper. Such a familiar and kind name.

10) A day of petty bourgeoisie-eating out (2)

When you meet friends and enter Fengle Building, you will meet many people you can't see today. First of all, someone will come up and express their willingness to be at your disposal, take the initiative to help you lead the way and help you choose the box. When you sit down, he starts to help you plan and keeps asking if you want to call Geji.

This man is called "Xian Han". He is not an employee in the restaurant, but he is familiar with all kinds of people in the restaurant. If the guests need him, he can help summon them. As a senior three boy, you are used to it. Listen to him. Of course, you can call others yourself if you want. But if he walks around, he won't miss drinking.

Dishes and wine vessels first appeared:

Generally speaking, people are extravagant in manners and customs, and their measure should be wider. No matter who is in the hotel, two people sit and drink, they also need to use a pair of bowls, two sets of dishes, five fruits and vegetables, and three or five water bowls, which is nearly a hundred taels of silver. Although one person drinks alone, the bowl is also made of silver spoons and the like.

Then a younger brother came and asked the guests what they were doing here. "Everyone is extravagant, and everyone calls it, no matter how hot or cold it is, no matter how warm it is, no matter how cold it is, fine pouring, and so on. Everyone's appeal is different. " After the younger brother wrote it down, he sang the name of the dish at the door of the box and reported it to the kitchen. This little brother is called "cooking", and the one in the kitchen is called "writing a case". My younger brothers are all smart people. Why? Just look below.

"In a short time, the gardener's left hand forked into three bowls, and his right arm folded about 20 bowls from hand to shoulder. Everyone shouted and beat, and there was no room for any mistakes. If something goes wrong, the host of the guest will be scolded, fined or even driven away. "

It turns out that the catering culture in Song Dynasty has reached such a high stage. Of course, my younger brother is a cudgel, and cooking is a skilled worker, which is not as good as those absent-minded brothers and sisters in restaurants now.

China ancient food

In ancient China, there were strict regulations on the consumption of rice and vegetables, and the difference in grades was reflected in the food etiquette. For example, princes and nobles pay attention to "cows should be ranked, sheep should be millet, elephants should be straight, dogs should be beam, geese should be straight, fish should rise, and gentlemen should eat constantly." The poor people's daily diet is mainly beans, rice and Tang Huo. "People mainly eat bean rice and Tang Huo." There are more than twenty kinds of dishes. "Every Wang Cili can eat 600, eat six animals, drink six clear foods, be ashamed of twenty products, use eight things as treasures, and use twenty jars as sauce." This tells us that the diet provided to the king should conform to certain moral norms. Book of rites? The Book of Rites says: "There are people who value most. The son of heaven has six beans, six princes, two princes, eight doctors and six doctors. " The food ceremony of the common people is "the gift of drinking in the countryside, with three beans for sixty people, four beans for seventy people, five beans for eighty people and six beans for ninety people, so it is also clear to support the elderly." Drinking in the countryside is a ceremony for villagers to get together and drink at the right time. In this celebration, elders are the most respected. about

Gifts come from diet, and at the same time, dietary activities are strictly restricted. Not only pay attention to dietary norms, but also have rules for the placement of dishes. Qu Li said: "When eating, the food is left, the quilt is right, the food is left and the soup is right. Outside the cooking place, in the sauce-dredging place, onion slices are right, and wine paste is right. Those who set customs will be left and right. " Translated into modern words, that is to say, all dishes with bones are placed on the left and pure meat is placed on the right. Dry food and vegetables are on people's left hand side and soup is on their right hand side. Fine-cut barbecue should be placed in the distance, and vinegar and sauce should be placed nearby. Steamed onions and other condiments are placed next to them, and drinks such as wine pulp and soup are also placed in the same direction. If you want to divide dried meat, breast meat, etc. It is curved on the left and straight on the right. This rule is in the Book of Rites? It is also recorded in detail in Shao Yi. When serving, take it with your right hand and your left hand; When serving fish dishes, if you cook fish, face the guests with the tail of the fish; In winter, the fish belly faces the right side of the guest, and in summer, the fish ridge faces the right side of the guest. In the process of eating, there is also a set of red tape. Book of rites? "Quli" contains: "* * * don't have enough to eat, * * * don't choose your hands when eating, don't fight for food, don't let go of food, don't stream songs, don't eat, don't bite bones. No fishing, no throwing dog bones. No real harvest, no rice, no rice, no soup, no teeth. Guest flocculant soup, the owner can't cook. The guest apologized and the host resigned from the basket. It's better to submit to humiliation than to submit to humiliation inside. Don't worry. If you eat, the guests kneel down from the front, take a group photo after the meal is over, the host will say goodbye to the guests, and then the guests will sit down. "The general idea of this passage is: let's eat together, not just for ourselves. If you eat with others, check whether your hands are clean. Don't rub rice balls with your hands, don't put extra rice in the pot, don't get your mouth wet, don't eat loudly, don't chew bones, don't put bitten fish back on plates and bowls, and don't throw meat bones to dogs. Don't stick to food, don't fan hot rice, eat rice with your hands instead of chopsticks, don't gulp soup, and don't mix vegetable soup in front of your host. Don't pick your teeth in public and don't drink dirty meat sauce. about

If a guest is mixing soup, the host will apologize and say that this dish is not good to cook; If the guest drinks pickles, the host should also apologize and say that the prepared dishes are not enough. Wet and soft meat can be bitten off with your teeth and shared with your hands. When you eat barbecue, you should knead it into a handful. After eating, the guests should get up and clean up the popular dishes on the table and give them to the host waiting next to them. The host will get up and tell the guests not to work, and then the guests will sit down.