Is there a big difference in people's clothing between Han Dynasty and Warring States Period?

Most of the crown service systems in the Han Dynasty were inherited from the Qin system. It was not until the second year of Yongping in the Eastern Han Dynasty that there were formal and complete regulations.

The main costumes of the Han dynasty are robes, straight single clothes, short clothes and skirts. In the Han dynasty, because the textile and embroidery industries were very developed, the rich could wear beautiful clothes of silk and satin. Ordinary people wear shorts and trousers, and the poor wear short brown (coarse cloth) shorts. Women in the Han dynasty wore two-piece dresses and robes, and there were many styles of skirts, the most famous of which was the fairy skirt. The rank of costumes in the Han Dynasty is mainly reflected by crowns, hats and ribbons. Different official positions have different crowns and hats. Therefore, the crown system is particularly complex, as many as 16 species. There were also strict regulations on shoes in the Han Dynasty: all sacrificial clothes should be worn, the wearing rate of court clothes was high, and shoes should be worn when going out. Women should wear clogs when they get married, and they should draw colorful pictures and tie colorful ribbons on them.

After the strict politics of the Qin Dynasty, Liu Bang won the world with civilians, trying to give the people a breathing space. The general system has not changed much, and the crown service system is mostly inherited from the Qin system. It was not until the second year of Yongping in the Eastern Han Dynasty that there were formal and complete regulations.

The main costumes of the Han dynasty are robes, straight single clothes, short clothes and skirts. In the Han dynasty, because the textile and embroidery industries were very developed, the rich could wear beautiful clothes of silk and satin. Ordinary people wear shorts and trousers, and the poor wear short brown (coarse cloth) shorts. Women in the Han dynasty wore two-piece dresses and robes, and there were many styles of skirts, the most famous of which was the fairy skirt.

Men's wear:

Costumes: The sacrificial costumes of the Han Dynasty inherited the practice of abolishing the "six crowns" in the Qin Dynasty, and adopted coronation as the costume for offering sacrifices to heaven and earth.

Coronation costume: the most noble ceremonial costume, which is worn by the Emperor of Heaven, the Third Prince and the Doctor of Qing Dynasty when they worship heaven and earth.

Long crown clothing: for teachers and apprentices, used to worship ancestral temples and various small sacrifices, such as five mountains, four crossings, mountains and rivers, country and other ceremonies.

Grooming crown: equivalent to the crown of the Zhou Dynasty. When you salute the prince and doctors, wear it.

Leather crown clothing: This kind of crown clothing is worn by deacons during the big shooting ceremony. The clothes are linen, soap head and plain clothes.

Li: From the Qin Dynasty, official uniforms were used as courtiers, and in the Han Dynasty, from emperors to humble officials, official uniforms were also used as courtiers and were also the main uniforms. That is, robes made of deep clothes have different names just because people of different identities wear different crowns. The colors of court costumes in Han Dynasty follow five colors, namely, Chun Lv, Xia Zhu, Xia Huang, Qiu Bai and Dong Hei. The royal robes are lined with the Hanfu of the commanding leader.

Women's wear:

Temple costume: equivalent to the Yi costume of the Zhou Dynasty, it is the most distinguished kind of women's costume. The clothes of the Empress Dowager and the Empress Dowager entered the temple, and the clothes of the Empress visited the temple. Their clothes were under the soap.

Silkworm clothing: equivalent to the clothes of the Zhou Dynasty. Every March, the queen leads her husband and wife to wear it when they kiss silkworms.

Li: From Mrs. Shi in 2000 to the empress, silkworm clothes are all royal clothes.

Chunqiu warring States clothing

Clothing Style in Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period

The clothes discovered by archaeology are the most direct materials, but it is difficult for clothes to be preserved for a long time. Therefore, the study of clothing styles in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period depends on indirect materials such as sculpture and painting, in addition to the unearthed clothing objects.

1. Clothes unearthed from the Chu Tomb of the Warring States Period in Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei;

(1) There are two ways to cut robes: straight cutting and oblique cutting.

Orthographic cutting method: the robe is divided into two parts: the top is cut 8 pieces, the front is cut 2 pieces, the width is 32 cm, and the sleeves are cut 3 pieces, the width is 42 cm, 43 cm and 45 cm. After assembling the above 8 pieces, sew from the bottom. A rectangle with a length of 37 cm and a width of 24 cm is placed under the armpit where the sleeve is connected with the body, which is convenient for the arm to move up and down. The collar is made of tapestry with raised weft, cut straight and extended down to a large part by 44 cm. * * * Cut 5 pieces of the lower skirt, two pieces in front of the lapels are 45cm wide, and the other three pieces are 4 1cm wide. Purlin hem is cut straight and stitched separately.

Oblique cutting method: the whole coat and double sleeves are cut obliquely, with 8 pieces, the width is 23cm, 26cm, 17cm, and the sleeve edge and collar edge are also cut obliquely. The lower garment is cut into 8 pieces, each piece is 20 cm to 37 cm wide.

There are three types of robes.

The first one has a concave back collar and a triangular front collar. The sleeves are inclined outward, and the widest sleeve is under the armpit and at the small cuff. This model is smaller and more practical.

The second type has straight sleeves, wide sleeves and short sleeves. The back collar is straight and the front collar is crossed (triangle). Loose body is a robe to cover your face.

The third kind of long sleeve is curved under the sleeve (the arc under the sleeve is called "Hu", which is designed to imitate the shape of the beard hanging under the cow's neck according to the Book of the Later Han Dynasty). Clothes are loose and luxurious. This style continued to be popular in the Western Han Dynasty.

The above three types are cross lap, right lap and straight lap, and the top and bottom skirt are connected as a whole. In addition, the silk figures and wooden figurines unearthed from the Chu Tomb of the Warring States Period in Changsha were observed, and there was also a curved robe with the right side of the skirt extending backward in a triangle, which was found in the Western Han Dynasty tomb No.1 Mawangdui in Changsha, Hunan.

(2) Zen collars are crossed, right and straight, the top is connected with the lower skirt, and the sleeves are Hu-shaped.

(3) The coat is knee-length, with collar, right hem and straight hem, and the coat is connected with the hem.

(4) The 〓〓 (qi \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \ u \\ u \\ The original is very small, specially made for martyrdom, and placed in a small bamboo barn with a bamboo stick named clothes tied outside.

(5) The hem of a single skirt is slightly larger than the skirt waist, and eight pieces are sewn on the skirt surface, with widths of 27cm, 27cm, 27.5cm, 26cm, 27cm, 24cm, 27cm and 26cm respectively, and the hem side width is 12.5cm. ..

(6) The quilt consists of waist and feet. There are 4 waist pieces, each foot is connected with 2 pieces, each piece is 30.5 cm wide and 45 cm long. There are 2 pieces on the left and right ankles, of which 1 piece is full silk with a width of 50 cm and a length of 6 1 cm. The other 1 block is made of half a piece of silk, with a width of 25 cm and a length of 59 cm. 1 length 12 cm wide rectangular crotch is inserted into the upper side of ankle, and 1 wide side is connected with ankle. 1 Sew the edge on the foot of the leg, fold it into a triangle and unfold it into a funnel. There is 1 stripe hem with a length of 32 cm and a width of 9 cm at the lower part of the hem to make a small hem, and silk tapestries are embedded in each seam of the hem. Embroidered silk fabric, dark yellow silk. The upper part of the foot is connected with the waist. But the crotch is not connected. The back waist opening forms the crotch. The salamander has a waist width of 0.5cm and a body length of 1 16cm.

(7) The hat unfolds in an irregular frustum shape, which is high at the front and low at the back when folded, with a convex top and a round hole. There are two straps on the inside of the back of the hat, which should be a hat system. The width is 18.5cm, the front is 25cm, and the back is 40cm. Red-brown silk fabric with dark yellow silk lining; Large diamond brocade frame.

(8) The tip of the Ma Xie is semicircular, with a gentle slope on the side. The inner layer is straw, and the surface layer is coated with linen and black paint; Then cover it with brocade. The sole is woven with hemp thread, and it is woven 27 times from the middle to the outside. There are many papillary knots below. It is 23 cm long and 5 cm high.

2. Indirect materials about costumes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period have been unearthed everywhere.

There are a lot of indirect materials about the costumes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Some figures with clear clothing structure are selected for readers' reference.

Painted decorative figures unearthed from Chu Tomb of Warring States Period in Changsha, Hunan Province are very concise, but their styles are very realistic. The man sitting in the middle is indoors and is the host of the dance. The dancer performed a dance outdoors. She looked beautiful in long sleeves, wide hem, V-neck robe and tight belt. Corpse whisperer: "King Chu Ling has a thin waist, but there are many hungry people in the country." This figure painting shows a dress with a thin waist. In addition, the neckline, cuffs, hem and belt of all the characters are white, probably wearing white shirts on the lining of dark robes. Although the crown is unclear, there are tassels hanging down and tied under the jaw.