What are the craft requirements for hotel furniture?

1. The purpose and significance of surface treatment of solid wood furniture:

1. Protective effect, improve the durability and firmness of wooden furniture;

2. Beautification The surface of wooden furniture increases the artistic effect;

3. Increase the added value of the product and its special functions - electrical insulation, sound insulation, heat insulation, fire prevention, anti-skid, anti-insect, etc.

4. How fast the paint dries and how much paint is consumed.

2. Contents of surface treatment of solid wood furniture:

1. Wood surface treatment includes two contents: one is to solve the defects on the wood surface, such as dullness. Wood burrs. Mujiezi. Natural defects such as cracks, decay and mildew, insect holes, scars, bubbles, seams, glue seepage, cutting knife marks, feeder indentations and defects caused by the processing process; the second is to solve the problem of wood surface cleaning, such as Resin, pigment, glue seepage, hand dirt and other pollution.

2. For this reason, the wood surface treatment must first make the wood surface smooth, and the second is to try to remove oil stains. Before applying paint on the surface of furniture, the wood surface should be treated to be smooth and clean, and the wood background color should be treated well. On this basis, the paint will obtain an ideal coating film.

3. Wooden furniture painting surface treatment:

1. Removal of wood hair: Although the surface of furniture made of wood has been finely planed or polished, the smoothness reaches requirements, but there will always be some wood fibers left on the surface that have not completely detached from the wood surface. Once these wood fibers absorb moisture or solvent, they swell with moisture and stand up. Due to the presence of wood hair on the surface of the wood, color will accumulate around it during painting, affecting the uniformity of coloring. At the same time, the interior of the wood wool is not colored. When the wood hair is sanded off, the wood hair breaks off to reveal its own color, and small white spots will appear on the paint film, commonly known as sesame white. Therefore, wood hair must be removed before painting. Generally, furniture can be sanded several times. For high-end furniture, the following methods can be used:

2. Remove dirt: stains on the painted surface (such as glue marks, Oil stains, etc.) will affect the uniformity of the painting color as well as the drying of the paint and the adhesion of the paint film, so it must be cleaned before painting. Stained surfaces can be sanded down with No. 1 or No. 1 and a half wood sandpaper. If the sand does not come off, use a polishing planer to clean the surface. Scrape away any remaining paint from tenon joints and other glued joints. Oil stains can be polished with sandpaper first, then washed with gasoline, or treated with the above-mentioned fire burning method.

3. Removal of resin: When there is resin in local areas of softwood, it will also affect the adhesion of the paint film and the uniformity of color. You can dig it out with a knife or chisel, and then replace it with wood of the same type. The direction of the wood fibers should be consistent. If digging is not allowed, it can be washed away with organic solvents. Commonly used solvents include turpentine, gasoline, toluene, acetone, etc. Remove the resin, and after the surface is dry, apply 1 to 2 coats of shellac varnish to the area to prevent the resin inside from seeping out again. You can also wash with alkali first and then with water. Generally, you can use 5% to 6% sodium carbonate solution or 4% to 5% caustic soda solution to saponify the rosin, and then scrub it clean with a brush or sponge and hot water.

4. Bleaching: If the furniture is to be painted in a light color, or in any color that has nothing to do with the original material color, the white surface of the furniture must be bleached. Under normal circumstances, bleaching is often performed on the local surface that is too dark to make the surface color of the painted wood consistent. Before bleaching, the dust on the surface needs to be removed. There are many methods of bleaching. The same bleach has different effects on different materials, and different bleaches have different effects. Commonly used bleaching agents are a mixture of hydrogen peroxide (30% concentration) and ammonia (25% concentration) (hydrogen peroxide: water: ammonia = 1:1:0.2); sodium hydroxide solution (250 grams of sodium hydroxide dissolved in 500 grams of water) solution) and hydrogen peroxide. Another method of bleaching is to apply a sodium hydroxide solution to the wood surface. After about half an hour, apply hydrogen peroxide again. After treatment, scrub the wood surface with water, neutralize it with a weak acid (such as about 1.2% acetic acid or oxalic acid) solution and sodium hydroxide, and then scrub it clean with water. The above two methods of bleaching wood are suitable for ash. Oak and other wood have better results, and the bleached surface will not discolor for many years.

5. Dyeing: The surface color of transparently painted furniture is determined by the color of the wood itself and the color of the paint film. The dyeing mentioned here refers to the use of certain substances such as iron sulfate before painting. Potassium dichromate, potassium permanganate, etc. interact with the tannins in the wood to change the color of the wood.

There are many dyeing methods. The most commonly used method in my country now is to dye the thin bark of red camphor wood with ferrous sulfate. After this treatment, the thin skin of the camphor wood becomes dark green or light gray and is glued to the appropriate parts of the furniture. After being transparently painted, the wood grain becomes more prominent due to the staggered depth of the material color, beautifying the furniture. surface. After testing, the appropriate concentration of ferrous sulfate is about 2%, and the thin skin needs to be soaked at room temperature for about 8 hours. Heating and soaking only takes about half an hour, but the amount of tannins contained in unused camphor wood varies, and the actual soaking time required is also different. During soaking, changes in material color should be observed regularly to avoid staining too darkly.

6. Filling and inlaying: There are often holes in the white furniture, such as insect holes, nail holes, cracks caused by dry wood, counter-grain grooves formed during counter-grain cutting, and cracks next to tree knots. Localized pits, conduit slots in hardwood, etc. These pores will absorb general varnish, paint and other coatings, causing waste of coatings and uneven coating surfaces, affecting the quality of the coating. Therefore, these holes must be filled and leveled with fillers such as putty, water-based powder, and oil-based powder according to specific circumstances. Putty is made from a large amount of extender pigments (commonly used are old powder, gypsum, etc.), varnish or colored paint, colored pigments, and appropriate amounts of water and solvents. Putty is generally prepared and used by painters themselves at the construction site at any time. Putty is not only used for filling larger holes and gaps, but also for comprehensive filling of painted surfaces.

7. Apply varnish: In order to make the coating effect close to the standard sample, you should first experiment on a sample that is the same as the furniture wood before constructing the furniture. After experimenting and confirming the process, go to painting furniture or interior decoration. In addition, it should be emphasized that shellac paint should not be used as the base color and primer when painting the desktop. Because shellac is afraid of hot water. When applying the topcoat, pay attention to phenolic varnish, ester varnish, alkyd varnish, and one-component urethane varnish. The paintable lines and surface drying times vary greatly, so attention should be paid to the construction. If you are painting natural furniture or the color is very light, it is recommended to use thin nitrocellulose varnish instead of shellac paint as the primer.

Example: Let’s take the surface treatment of pine furniture before painting as an example:

①. Surface modification: Use No. 1 wood sandpaper to smooth the surface and remove dirt and oil stains.

②. Filling: Use shellac old powder putty to fill holes, gaps and uneven surface. The putty should be filled in and solid.

③. Polishing: Use No. 1 wood sandpaper to smooth the dried putty. Wipe away sawdust with a rag.

④. Apply primer: Add an equal amount of diluent to the acrylic resin matte varnish, mix thoroughly, then brush or spray, and dry at 20°C for about 2 hours.

⑤. Polishing: Use No. 0 wood sandpaper to gently smooth it.

⑥. Topcoat: 100 parts of acrylic resin matte varnish, diluted with 120 parts of special thinner, brush or spray on the furniture surface.

Pre-painting treatment is not only the basis of painting, but also an indispensable and important process of painting. It is a key link to improve the coating adhesion and corrosion resistance. The quality of pre-painting treatment is directly related to the quality of the painting, the life span of the painted product, the market competitiveness, and even the value of the painted product. This is a link that must be paid full attention to.