Explanation of Japanese Kimono Design

Kimono (わふく, wafuku), the Japanese original meaning is "the general name of clothing", but later it specifically refers to its traditional clothing. The word originated after the Meiji Restoration and the opening of the country. It was originally called Wufu because it evolved from the Hanfu in the Jiangsu and Zhejiang areas of Soochow, China. Later, because the Japanese were of the Japanese ethnic group, it was also called kimono.

The synonym of this word is western clothes.

Now when I go to Japan, most people call them Wufu.

[Edit this paragraph] Explanation of kimono

Japanese traditional national costume. Japanese name for something.

For a long time in ancient Japan, there was a long-term use of sleeveless blouses, called "small sleeves", which were created by combining the "body area" in the south and the "tube sleeves" in the north. There are "body eight openings" (vents) under the sleeves. ). Starting from the 3rd century AD, Chinese robes were introduced to Japan and had an impact. "Xiaoxiu" continued to absorb Wu clothing (the clothing of the Wu state in the Three Kingdoms period, the Wu state clothing in the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period), Tang clothing (the clothing of the Tang Dynasty in China) and the clothing of the Ming Dynasty in China. Characteristics: During the Muromachi period (1338-1573), it developed into the "long sleeves" with a hem length above the knee and wide cuffs, which established the basic form of the kimono.

Kimonos are divided into men's, women's, and children's wear, as well as single clothes and jackets. There are "top clothes" (outer robes), "lower clothes" (under robes) and other types. The length of the kimono is generally ankle-length, with a crossed collar, a large right lapel, wide sleeves, eight openings on the body, no buttons at the top and bottom, a belt, and the family emblem printed on the garment. Men's kimonos are made of fabrics in black, brown, gray, dark blue and other colors, or fabrics with fine grids, polka dots, and bird's eye patterns. Women's kimonos are usually made of colorful silk fabrics with fine embroidery, paintings and additional decorations. Women's kimono obi (Obi) is made of woven or embroidered satin, about 3 to 5 meters long and 25 to 40 cm wide. It is usually woven in a single strip without cutting. It is wrapped between the waist and chest and knotted at the back. Eye-catching, there are more than 200 species. There is a small padding in the middle of the back of the belt to support the ruffles of the belt. Kimonos have always been loved by the Japanese people in various social activities.

[Edit this paragraph] Characteristics of kimono

Kimono is a flat cut, almost entirely composed of straight lines, that is, straight lines are used to create the beauty of the kimono. There are almost no curves in the cut of the kimono, except for a 20cm slit at the collar, and the excess parts are folded together when putting on the collar. If you take the kimono apart, you can see that the fabric used to make the kimono is still a complete rectangle. Since the cutting and making of kimonos has the above characteristics, there is more freedom in tailoring. When making kimonos, it is less influenced by the person's body shape. Even if people of different heights, short, fat, and thin wear kimonos of the same size, they rarely give the impression that the clothes do not fit. Because, it can be adjusted in size around the waist depending on the individual. Although the kimono is basically composed of straight lines that intersect the body in a straight shape and lacks the display of human body curves, it can show solemnity, stability, and tranquility, which is in line with the temperament of the Japanese. Not only that, the kimono also conforms to the nature of Japan; most areas in Japan are warm and humid, so the breathability of the clothing is very important. Because the kimono is relatively loose and has as many as eight ventilation holes, and the sleeves, lapels, and trains of the kimono can be opened and closed freely, it is very suitable for Japan's customs and climate.

[Edit this paragraph] The definition of kimono

There are many kinds of kimonos, regardless of color, texture and style, and they have changed in countless ways over the past thousands of years. Not only are there obvious differences between men and women (men's kimonos are more monotonous in color, more black, with fewer styles, thin belts, simple accessories, and easy to wear; women's kimonos are colorful and gorgeous, with wide belts, and various types and styles. There are also many accessories), and depending on the occasion and time, people will also wear different kimonos to show caution (women’s kimonos include wedding kimonos, adult kimonos, evening kimonos, banquet kimonos and general dresses) . The weaving, dyeing and embroidery of the kimono itself, as well as the complicated rules when wearing it (when wearing a kimono, pay attention to wearing clogs and cloth socks, and also have different hairstyles according to the type of kimono) make it a work of art. Designers continue to innovate in colors, colors and textures, applying various bold designs to colors and styles, so that modern impressions are subtly integrated into classical forms.

Before the Edo period, the word "bath" in kimono meant "hot water". At that time, people called kimono "Yukatabira". Curtain refers to single clothing, that is, clothing that is worn alone. Bathrooms in ancient times were basically steam-type, very similar to today's saunas. In order to prevent themselves from being burned by the walls and pillars, people wear bath curtains. Yuheko was called "kimono" since the Edo period.

Later, people gradually changed the way of bathing. They no longer wore clothes when bathing, but soaked in hot water. As a result, this kimono became a simple piece of clothing worn after bathing, and continues to this day as summer leisure clothing that embodies personal taste. In terms of price, it is very different from a kimono for a real banquet. It is usually around 100,000 yen, while a normal kimono costs at least 1 million yen.

The original Japanese clothing was women's clothing known as "Kantoi" and men's clothing known as "banner". The so-called "Guantouyi" is to dig a hole in the cloth, pull it off over the head, and then tie the cloth hanging under the armpits with a belt, and then wear it with a skirt-like bottom. The method is quite primitive, but quite effective. practical.

The so-called "banner" is to wrap uncut cloth around the body, exposing the right shoulder, just like the cassock worn by a monk.

The Japanese kimono was gradually evolved based on this. Various image materials of kimonos have been found on the Haniwa dolls unearthed from ancient tombs dating back to the 7th century in Japan.

In the 8th century AD, Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing was introduced to Japan and had a great impact on Japanese kimonos. The names of kimono at that time were such as "Akara grass", "Akara flower", "Akara brocade", etc. "Kimono", "banner" and later "kimono" were influenced by the Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing in Southeast Asia.

All kinds of kimonos have "big similarities" in styles and ways of wearing, and there are also "little differences". It is these "little differences" that have an important function of clothing: showing identity, age, and belonging. social class. Taking women's kimonos as an example, this "little difference" is mainly reflected in the sleeves. The sleeves of kimono are roughly divided into "black sleeves", "color sleeves", "hon furisode", "naka furisode", etc.

1. "Keep the sleeves", that is, the sleeves are relatively short.

2. The "black sleeves" kimono is often decorated with exquisite patterns. It is a dress for middle-aged women and is generally worn on more grand and solemn occasions, such as weddings and banquets.

3. "Iron Tomisode" is a kimono of various colors. The wearer is younger than the person who wears "Black Tomisode". It is also a dress worn on solemn occasions.

4. "Furisode" is a traditional costume for unmarried young Japanese women. It is relatively luxurious and is generally only worn during celebrations, graduations, and New Years (today, few people wear it even at such times) This kind of kimono). "Furisode" means long sleeves, often about 1 meter long and hanging down to the ankles.

5. In addition, there is a kind of kimono called "colorless land", which is worn in daily life. "Colorless Land" does not have patterns, but it has colors.

Ventilation is a major advantage and feature of the kimono, so the cuffs, placket, and train of the kimono can be opened and closed freely. However, this kind of opening and closing, especially the opening and closing of the skirt, has a lot to pay attention to. Different openings and closings have different meanings and show the wearer's different identities. For example, when an artist wears a kimono, the skirt is always open, and only the "V"-shaped intersection of the skirt is tied with a belt. This way of wearing not only gives people the feeling of taking off the kimono but not taking it off, showing a kind of implicit beauty, but also can show the identity of women engaged in this profession. On the other hand, if a woman who is not engaged in this profession wears a kimono, she must close the skirt. But even if the shirt is closed, the degree to which it is closed is also particular, and it shows the wearer's marital status: if she is a married woman, the shirt does not have to be closed entirely, and the area near the neck can be left open. But if she is an unmarried girl, she must close her clothes. In fact, there is so much emphasis on wearing a kimono that there are "classrooms" in Japan that teach people how to wear a kimono.

[Edit this paragraph] The structure of the kimono

1. Kakejin (かけえり), ***kin (ともえり)

2. Main kimono (ほんえり), Dijin (じえり)

3. Right predecessor (まえみごろ)

4. Left predecessor

5 .Sleeve (そで)

6. 袂 (たもと)

7. Left の衽 (おくみ)

8. Right の衽

9.剣前（けんさき）

10. Body and length (みたけ)

11. Sleeve and length (ゆきたけ)

12. Shoulder width (かたはば)

13. Sleeve width (そではば)

14. Sleeve length (そでたけ)

15. Cuffs (そでぐち)

16. Sodetsu (そでつけ)

[Edit this paragraph] The history of the kimono

It is said that there was a god named Izanagi in the theocratic era of Japan. , when he was performing the task of purifying (preventing calamities and praying for blessings by fasting, bathing, etc.), he often took off his shirt, hakama, and girdle, exposing his body. According to research by later generations, the theocratic era described in the legend is equivalent to Japan's primitive society period. Thousands of ruins of Japanese life in that era have been discovered. Their distribution area stretches from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south, almost all over Japan. The Japanese in primitive society lived a migratory life in groups, and their main production activities were hunting and gathering (don’t always think of the imperial era). Perhaps it was during that era that the Japanese began to process animal fur or leaves to keep out the cold, stepping out of the era of nudity. In the late Jomon-style cultural period (Japan's Neolithic Age, equivalent to 800-500 BC) and the Yayoi-style cultural period (the era when Japan used Yayoi-style pottery, equivalent to 300-300 BC), two kinds of Basic clothing styles. One is a pullover-style round-neck sweater, which is similar in shape to today's round-neck knitted pullover; the other is a double-breasted style, with the left placket used from the collar tip to the waist, and the two ends are tied with thin ropes at equal intervals. The sleeves are cylindrical and above the knee. Matching the blouse are hakama, scarf and Yusubi. Hakama originally refers to a kind of crotch cloth worn on the lower body to cover the top, but the hakama here refers to bottoms similar to pants with legs connected. Men have a kind of loincloth called Shang. The loincloth is tied around the top. Due to the pleats appearing in the knot, the clothing has undergone some changes. Most women wear Shang Shang. Unlike men, women's Shang Shang is floor-length, and its form is quite similar to the "Qima" skirt of today's Korean women.

Scarves are generally hung on the shoulders as a decoration. The form of hanging is not limited and is usually determined by personal preferences. In production work, scarves are often used as straps to tie long sleeves, or as a substitute for wrapping cloth. On parting occasions, people wave scarves to show their reluctance to leave. It has the same effect as waving handkerchiefs that became popular in the Meiji era to express farewell. Usubi is a ribbon-like fabric that is larger and longer than a scarf, covering the head and hanging around the waist. In ancient Japan, women were taboo about having their faces peeked at by men, so they used to wear masks.

According to documents such as "Kojiki", "Nihon Shoki", "Uekrin Atlas", "Old Sayings" and other documents, the clothing of Japan's late Jomon culture period and Yayoi culture period has adopted It is made of plant fiber materials such as Pu cloth, linen cloth, cotton cloth, rattan cloth, and Kobu, and the belt is made of Japanese cloth. The emergence of clothing materials is shrouded in the halo of myths, such as the Vulture God of Tianri cutting Chu weaving cloth, and the White Feather God of Richang creating his own linen for the benefit of the people.

Dyeing was already relatively common at that time. According to "Oshinki", when Emperor Kagekyo was the emperor, common people already knew to use madder to dye red, indigo to dye blue, acorns to dye yellow, acorns to dye black, and purple roots. Dye purple. Most of the dyed fabrics have no pattern, and occasionally there are some prints, which are usually done directly by rubbing leaves, flowers and grass. The plants used include moon grass, swallow grass, hazel, mountain blue, honeysuckle, etc.

1. Nara Period: The coarse cloth clothing of ancient Japan, with narrow sleeves and slanted front, is very similar to ancient Chinese clothing. However, there are actual written records that the introduction of Chinese clothing to Japan and the institutionalization of it should have begun in the Nara period. Japan's Nara period coincided with China's prosperous Tang Dynasty.

Japan sent a large number of scholars and monks to study in China. These envoys to the Tang Dynasty brought back to Japan the culture, art, and laws and regulations of the Tang Dynasty - the "Clothes Order" was one of the systems established in the Nara period to imitate the Tang Dynasty. The "Clothing Order" stipulates formal attire, court attire and uniforms - court attire includes crowns and hats, classified by official rank; uniforms are the clothing of civil servants without official positions, classified by industry. Generally speaking, the clothing colors of the Nara period were relatively simple. Heian period: In the Heian period (after the ninth century), due to the prevalence of national style, Japanese kimonos gradually got rid of foreign influences and developed unique features of luxury, beauty and sophistication. The colors of their clothes began to diversify, and their sleeves became wider. direction development. For example, those who are familiar with Japanese history must have heard of "Tang Yi" and "Twelve Singles". Tangyi is a kind of dress (dress), with purple and scarlet as the most precious, resplendent and extremely beautiful. Twelve singles is actually a way of dressing. It is not twelve layers of single clothes, but twelve layers of clothing called kui. The kui is light and transparent. When multiple layers of kui are stacked, you can still vaguely see the single clothes or The colors on the surface add to the hazy beauty. From here we can also get a glimpse of Japanese aesthetics, which not only like abstract beauty, but also like the beauty of the natural world that is truly and meticulously reflected.

2. Kamakura Period: Due to excessive corruption and extravagance, the rule of the public officials finally declined. During the Kamakura period, a relatively lean and simple samurai culture emerged, and the characteristics of this era were also reflected in clothing. At that time, the Yuan Dynasty unified China and invaded Japan ten times in a row: In order to facilitate the war, the Japanese returned to simple clothing and changed their wide sleeves back to narrow sleeves.

3. Muromachi period: In the Muromachi period, family crests were printed on clothes (in ancient Japan, every family had a family crest according to their surname, and it is estimated that the number of family crests exceeded 20,000), and the design of casual clothes began to become formalized. Straight and black hats are fashionable men's clothing and are very popular. Women's clothing, on the other hand, is moving towards simplicity.

4. Momoyama Period: During the Azuchi and Momoyama Periods of Oda Nobunaga (mid-16th century), people began to pay attention to wearing different clothes in different places, so the "visit clothes" worn for wedding banquets and tea parties appeared. "dress with sleeves" and "dress with sleeves" worn when participating in various celebrations, adult festivals, banquets, and blind dates. It is popular for women to wear small sleeves: although beautiful, they are still crude compared to Tang Yi and the like. During this period, "Noh" with its distinctive folk character gradually took shape, and gorgeous and luxurious "Noh" costumes appeared. At this time, there were no major changes in the costumes of the ministers. They were basically a continuation of the court costumes from the Heian period. The final integration of the ministers and the samurai was in the Meiji period, which is a story later.

5. Edo Period: The Edo Period was the most prosperous period in the history of Japanese clothing. At that time, although men's and women's clothing had changes, (for example, the shape of the small sleeves of women's clothing became closer to modern times, while haori was popular in men's clothing. lt;Black five patterns were the formal wear, followed by tea and yellow, and the knot became popular.) However, the basic pattern was set. By the Meiji era, the kimono in the current sense was finalized, and it has not changed much since then. Most of the kimonos we see today follow the special clothing styles of the Edo period.

[Edit this paragraph] The art of kimono

The history of Japanese painting has always been in sync with the history of Chinese art, especially during the Tang Dynasty in China, when Buddhist art was introduced to China and Japan, whether it is the mural statues in temples or the portraits in life, the two countries have similarities.

The paintings that truly reflect Japanese kimonos are mainly Japanese genre paintings. Japanese genre painting arose in the Muroku era (1392-1573), which is equivalent to the Ming Dynasty in China. At that time, many Chinese genre paintings were introduced to Japan, such as "Farming and Weaving Pictures", which reflected the production process of the working people in ancient China, and were used as a model to be imitated by Japanese painters. As a result, many versions of "Farming and Weaving Pictures Entering the Furious" appeared in Japan. The Noonaga edition also includes the painted screen "Weaving Pictures" from Koyasan Monsho-in Temple in Wakayama Prefecture. But the real rise of Japanese genre painting was in the Edo period. At that time, although there was a classical school of painting that specialized in traditional stories as painting themes, such as The Tale of Genji and The Tale of Joruri, they all appeared on the screens of the nobles of the imperial palace at that time. Such traditional themes It is generally expressed using traditional painting techniques. The characters in the painting are all wearing the gorgeous clothes of the palace at that time, and the style is somewhat similar to the official Hina doll.

But at that time, there were more genre paintings painted on these screens at the same time. This was a major feature of the early Edo period (early 16th century). Its painting center was in Kyoto. At that time, after the Hirohito Civilization Rebellion, Kyoto's economy was undergoing a transformation. As a symbol of revival, the Garden Festival in the 9th year of Mingguang Dynasty was also held annually in Kyoto. Because of this, a series of screen pictures appeared in large numbers, such as "Luozhong Special Picture" by Hōno Eitoku. This picture has three There are several editions, including the Taita edition, the Ryuhoku edition, and the Uesugi edition. In addition, there are also the "Rakuzhong Customs Picture" screen (first half of the 17th century) collected in the Tokyo National Museum, and the "Shijo Kawara Tour Picture" screen from the Jinggado Bunko. The theme of the screen is quite similar to the spring outings of the Tang Dynasty, but there are more characters and grander scenes, and the most prominent part is the content of kabuki. Such as four rivers and six willows. The former is the center of the rise of kabuki, and the latter is where wandering girl kabuki gather. Kitano Shatou Kabuki, which was founded in the eighth year of Keicho (1603), became popular overnight. In the last years of Keicho's reign, a permanent stage was set up in Shijo Kawara for the wandering girls of Rokujoyanagi Town to perform. At that time, there were a large number of texts recording this custom, and the place became the cultural center of Kyoto. From this you can see how kimonos were worn at that time.

However, the grand spectacle of kabuki was objectionable to those in power. In the 16th year of Kan'ei, the government ordered a ban on kabuki. Therefore, a large number of indoor entertainment scenes increased during the Kan'ei period.

By the mid-Edo period, the counterpart to the genre paintings was the Ukiyo-e of the Momoyama period. Ukiyo-e extracted a single beauty from an indoor amusement picture to depict it. This form was particularly popular in the Kanbun period. Therefore, it is called Kanbun Beauty Picture, among which "Yachyodaifu Picture" is a particularly outstanding work.

In the mid-17th century, print illustrations appeared in Edo publications. The people who drew these illustrations were called Itashita illustrators, and most of them were unknown illustrators. Among them, the one who stood out was Hisikawa Shinobu ( -1694), Shi Xuan served as the illustrator for the Edo edition of Suzuka Saikaku's "The Erotic Man". Each illustration can be appreciated independently. Shi Xuan is the founder of Ichi-e. The beauty in his painting "Returning to the Beauty" is wearing a kimono with a large embroidered flower pattern on a field of small red flowers. The beauty looks back and smiles beautifully, which is extremely touching.

In the second year of Minghe (1765), paintings centered on haiku became popular. It is produced with luxurious multi-color folded prints. Among them, the outstanding artist is Suzuki Harunobu (1725-1770). His prints are as beautiful as brocade, so they are called brocade-e. The beauties he painted are especially beautiful with willow waists, which became popular for a while. Representatives of beautiful women paintings after Harunobu include Katsukawa Harunai, Torii Kiyonaga, etc., but the most famous ukiyo-e master is Kitagawa Utama (1753-1806). Most of his paintings are half-length paintings or large-scale paintings, such as " "Ten Body Study of Women's Physiology" and so on. Since then, many genre paintings reflecting sericulture or textile production have also used this ukiyo-e style. The women in the paintings wear kimonos of lower-class working women.

In modern Japan, there is also a specialized school of painting named Bijinga, in which most of the paintings are Japanese women wearing kimonos.

Since the 30th year of Meiji, Japanese painters have begun to create new beauty painting methods, which can be roughly divided into three schools. One is the modern beauty painting school that emerged from Ukiyo-e, and the Kanto beauty painting school. Dysprosium Kiyokata is the representative; the second one is the beauty paintings mainly featuring noble ladies and upper-class wives, represented by Maruyama Shijo. Among them, the works lined with pine gardens have groups of Japanese ladies in kimonos, and they are gorgeous. The painting is graceful, with a plump face, and the method of making the kimono depicted is also very clear, whether it is a shackle or a yuzen, you can tell the difference; the third is a beauty painting that combines East and West, depicting Japanese women wearing kimonos in the style of Western paintings.

The above-mentioned art works related to kimono. It not only preserves the colors, fabrics, patterns, styles and accessories of kimonos from different periods in history, but also reflects the ways of wearing kimonos and the various gestures of Japanese people wearing kimonos. In addition, these works are actually kimonos in the eyes of the artist, revealing the attitudes and feelings of the artist and his contemporaries towards kimonos.

[Edit this paragraph] Types of kimonos

There are many types of kimonos, not only for men and women, unmarried and married, but also for casual and formal wear.

Men's kimonos have fewer styles, are more monotonous in color, mostly dark, have thin belts and are easy to wear. Women's kimonos come in a variety of styles, with bright colors and wide belts. Different kimono belts are knotted in different ways and must be matched with different hairstyles. Married women usually wear "furisode" kimonos, while unmarried ladies usually wear "furisode" kimonos. In addition, the pattern, color, style, etc. of wearing a kimono also vary depending on the purpose of going out, such as visiting, playing, and shopping.

1. Tomisode kimono: The dress worn by women when attending relatives’ weddings and formal ceremonies, etc., is mainly divided into black tomesode and colored tomesode. With black as the background color, dyed with five patterns, and patterns printed on both ends of the hem of the front body of the kimono, it is called "Kurotome" and is used by married women; fabrics of other colors have three or one pattern printed on them, and the hem Those with patterns are called "color sleeves". The first picture is a black furisode

2. Furisode kimono: also known as long-sleeved dress, it is the first dress for ladies. According to the length of the sleeves, it is divided into "large furisode", "medium furisode" and " "Small furisode", among which the most commonly worn is "middle furisode". Mainly used for adult ceremonies, graduation ceremonies, banquets, evening parties, visiting friends and other occasions. Because this kind of kimono gives people a sense of fashion, more and more married women wear "naka furisode".

3. Visiting kimono: It is a kimono dyed with a pattern on the whole. It unfolds from the hem, left front sleeve, left shoulder to collar to form a picture. In recent years, as the most popular simple dress, visiting kimono is large popular. It can be worn at school opening ceremonies, friends’ banquets, evening parties, tea parties and other occasions, and there are no restrictions on age or marriage.

4. Small pattern kimono: The clothes are dyed with small patterns. Because it is suitable for practicing wearing, it is generally used as daily fashionable clothing and can often be seen on dates and shopping occasions. Komon kimono is also a dress used by young women for semi-formal evening events.

5. Mourning clothes: all black including the belt, worn during funerals.

6. Wedding dress: the dress worn when getting married.

7. Yukata: worn before bathing.

8. Men’s kimono: Men’s kimono is a formal attire with a coat and skirt dyed with patterns. In addition to black, other coats and skirts dyed with patterns are only used as simple costumes and can be matched with any outfit.

9. Plain kimono: This is a single-color kimono (except black). If it is dyed with patterns, it can be used as a dress. If there is no pattern, it can be used as daily wear.

10. "Fushita" kimono: a general term for kimonos where the sleeves, front and back body, and collar patterns are all printed and dyed from the bottom up. Lighter and more comfortable than visiting kimono.

11. Twelve singles: These are the dresses worn by ancient women when entering the palace or festivals.

Divided into Tang clothes, single clothes, outer clothes, etc., ***12 layers

The following are the subdivisions of kimono

Furisode sleeves visit Fu け下げ小码 (こもん) 色无地Tsumugi (つむぎ) ウール物 アンサンブル robe (ゆかた) Haori (はおり) Doyuki コート (みちゆきこーと) Quilt (ひふ) Hakama (はかま), hanging (うちかけ), vertical (ひたたれ), large pattern (だいもん） plain coat (すおう) 胃 (かみしも) flat-mounted harness (そくたい) straight clothes (のうし) hunting clothes (かりぎぬ) twelve squares (じゅうにひとえ) 袿 (うちき) slender (ほそなが) Kappo Wear (かっぽうぎ) もんぺjinbei (じんべい) Work clothes (さむえ) Danzen (たんぜん)

Accessories

Japanese umbrella headscarf ショール襦袢ステテコHANjin帯马帯bag帯Nagoya Half-width 帯帯児帯（へこおび） 帯阳げ帯板（おびいた） 帯簯め帯簯发簪（かんざし） 栉（くし） 瀯ひも风子ハンドバッグ雪駄（せった） 下駄草苄 footbag hand armor and foot hoop（きゃはん） 褌（ふんどし） 荳文（ゆもじ）畳片（たとうがみ） 搐paper

[Edit this paragraph]How to wear kimono

Basic wearing method

The first step is to put on the foot bags (socks), and then put them on neatly in order. The straps cannot be tied too tightly.

1． Put on the kimono and put the sleeves of the undershirt into the kimono sleeves. Adjust the back seam of the kimono to the center of the back, then use a clip to secure the shirt to the kimono collar.

2． Lift the collar with your hands and adjust the length of the hem to a length that does not touch the ground.

3. Open the kimono and place the front collar at the waist to determine the width of the front. It is advisable to align the edge of the kimono with the side of the body.

4. After deciding the width, slowly open the front, then fit the bottom to determine the width, and then raise the lower part of the collar held in the right hand by 10 cm to make the hem thread tilted

5. Repeat the front and raise the lower part of the collar held by your left hand by 5 cm, being careful not to misplace it. After the waist appears, the creases are adjusted upward.

6. Tie the first string around your waist. The straps are tied from the front of the body to the front, crossing at the middle of the back and back to the front for knotting.

7. Smooth out the wrinkles at your waist. Put your hands through the slits under the kimono sleeves to check whether the kimono is caught by the straps, and smooth out the excess at the back.

8． Also smooth out the excess on the chest, pull the wrinkles to the armpits, grab the edges of the sleeves with both hands, and gently pull the cuffs.

9. Check whether the two collars are neatly aligned. If there is any misalignment, put your hand through the slit under the sleeve to adjust it. The neckline slit should not be too high or too small.

10． Tie a second string under the chest. The excess part must be pulled neatly, and the repeated part on the front must be horizontal.

11. Straighten your waist and tie a small belt called "Ida" on your chest. Because the small belt is stretchable, be careful not to tie it too tightly.

12. Check whether there are any folds or looseness on the chest and back. If so, straighten them toward the armpits. After the whole thing is finished, use a large mirror to check if there are any mistakes, and then take off the clip on the collar.

How to tie the belt

If you are tying the belt alone, you can tie a knot in front of your chest, then hold the knot in your right hand and the lower side of your back with your left hand, and pull it from Turn right direction to the back.

1． Fold the wide belt in half up and down, stick it to your waist, and determine the length of the knot hole. The appropriate length of the knot hole should be 20 cm.

2． Hang the knotted part over your shoulders, and tie the remaining part tightly around your waist twice.

3. After wrapping the waist twice, the remaining strap is folded in half and tied with the end hanging on the shoulder.

4. Keep your feet slightly apart to stabilize your body, and then tighten the straps firmly.

5. Pick up the knotted eye part and fold it into three.

6． Tie a rope around both shoulders and secure the eyelet to the rope with a clip.

7. Smooth out the wrinkles on the knotted wings.

8. The length of the knotted wings is shoulder-width apart, and the front side is rolled up.

9. Pick up the knot fin, place the strap pillow on the strap lining and roll it up.

10． Fold the knotted wings into beautiful pleats and attach them to the back.

11. Open the knotted wings and tidy them up beautifully. After completion, check again and adjust the angle of the fins.

[Edit this paragraph] Taboos about kimonos

Taboos about clothing

Japan has a custom of using clothes to "call on spirits": people either sit on the pillow of the deceased or board the Go up to the roof facing the mountains and sea, or wave the clothes of the deceased and shout loudly to call the deceased back. When washing used clothes for the deceased, you should wash them facing north and dry them in the middle of the night. After washing and drying, they must be folded neatly, stored for a period of time, and then beaten a few times with a stick before the living person can wear them. Therefore, when people wash their clothes, they never dry them to the north, and they never hang them outside at night.

In cities, most families do not wash clothes on the first day of the first lunar month. According to ancient customs, laundry is not allowed on the first, fifteenth, twenty-eighth of each month, or even on the festival days such as Bi'an. This is not only because of the need for a good rest during the holidays, but also because of the fear that the soul of the person being sacrificed on this day will wander by and cling to the clothes being dried. When wearing newly made clothes, in some areas (such as Kishu) the clothes are first draped on pillars; in some places (Okinawa) they have to chant "I am a thousand years old, and the pillars are also a thousand years old", "The clothes are thin, the body is strong" ". Even if you don't pierce the wooden pillars first, you should fold them and knock them twice before using them. This is all out of concern that there is some kind of soul hidden in the clothes. After collecting it for a period of time, beat it with a stick, or pierce the wooden pillar first. From a subjective perspective, it is hoped that it will play a role in resolving disasters and avoiding evil.

"Wu He Ji" records: "If you don't hang your crown on your back, you will dress like a dead person". There is a legend in Qinyang, Henan Province that "if you wear your skirt on your back, you will marry another man". Since the deceased goes to the underworld, which is completely opposite to the Yang world, they must wear their clothes and hats backwards after death. According to Japanese custom, when a dead person is buried, his clothes should be turned to the left, which means that all the attire of the deceased is the opposite of that of the living. Therefore, when people usually wear clothes, it is most taboo to have the collar nestled inside, or with the collar facing the front and the collar facing the inside.

Similarly, due to the idea of ??"animism", people believe that the clothes they wear must contain their own souls. Giving the clothes you wear to your closest friends means giving your soul away. He also gave it to the other party, which shows his sincerity. When some people donate clothes, they also put a five-yen Japanese coin in their pocket. This is a homophonic pronunciation of five-yuan, which means "fate" (fate with you). There is still a practice of giving "money to buy clothes". "," money to buy belts" are all manifestations of this custom.

Color Taboos

The book "Chinese Folk Taboos" once classified the colors of clothing into four categories: taboo on noble colors, taboo on cheap colors, taboo on ominous colors, and taboo on gorgeous colors.

The "Book of Rites" records that the colors of Tianzhan clothing vary according to the seasons. According to the yin and yang and the five elements of the season, they are divided into five colors: green, red, yellow, white and black.

In the fourth year of Zhenguan, Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty decided on the color of court uniforms for all officials, with purple in front of the vermilion: purple for the third rank and above; scarlet for the fourth and fifth ranks; dark green for the sixth rank; light green for the seventh rank; dark green for the eighth rank; Ninth grade light green.

It can be said that the color taboos in Japanese history are similar to these to varying degrees.

In the eleventh year of Emperor Suiko's reign (605), Prince Shotoku promulgated the "Twelve Ranks of Crown Ranks", and crowns were used according to rank.

From top to bottom are virtue (purple), benevolence (green), propriety (red), faith (yellow), righteousness (white), and wisdom (black). These six colors and crown positions are further subdivided into two categories, large and small, up to twelve levels.

In Japanese history, orange, crimson, cyan, and dark purple were designated as the colors for the attire of the crown prince, emperor, emperor, and prince respectively, and their use was restricted to others. In particular, dark red and dark purple were not allowed to be used by people other than the royal family. This rule lasted until 1945.

On the murals of the Takamatsuzuka Tumulus in Japan, in addition to portraits of men and women in Tang suits, there are also pictures of blue dragons, redbirds, white tigers, and black turtles as guardians of the four directions.

To this day, when wearing kimono in some places in Japan, white and red are generally not used unless it is a solemn ceremony. Because: white represents holiness and purity; red symbolizes magic.