The pastoral dream of new Dali people

Dali homestay is well known. If the degree is concerned, tourists ask themselves, is it the first choice to stay in Dali Club?

but where do you live? I searched between Cangshan Lake and Erhai Lake.

The plane circled and landed, and Dali became bigger and bigger outside the porthole. Around Erhai Lake, the white belt became wider and wider, which was the reflection of the dense roofs. The homestays are mainly distributed in the ancient city of Dali sandwiched between Cangshan Mountain and the west bank of Erhai Lake, and the double corridors in the northeast of Erhai Lake. Entering the city from the airport, journey to the south will inevitably reach Xiaguan Town at the southernmost tip of Erhai Lake. Dali ancient city and double corridors are the choices of going left and right.

"Close the wind, close the flowers, and close the flowers. Cangshan Snow, Erhai Moon, Erhai Moon reflects Cangshan Snow. " This is a famous sentence written by the writer Cao Jinghua describing the beautiful scenery of Dali. However, in Xiaguan Town, which has become the center of Dali city, and it is in winter, the wind can only blow the cement forest. The towering and sharp shapes of buildings in the urban area always make people feel that man-made houses are not mistakes, but they are like bumps left when smearing mistakes on paper.

maybe it's the same in the ancient city? So I went east and ran to the double gallery, where there was the best scenery. In the plateau area, clouds generally travel fast, and there are often places where a pool of green lakes lies under the mountains. The clouds between Cangshan Lake and Erhai Lake are particularly varied, especially in the wide Erhai Lake, and the double corridors that are at a distance from Cangshan Mountain are the best places to watch. JASON ZHANG, the director who filmed Living Elsewhere, was one of the first strangers to notice the beauty of Shuanglang. He once recalled that at the beginning of this century, he always went to the artist Zhao Qing's home in Shuanglang Yuji Island, facing Erhai Lake, and stayed for an afternoon to watch the clouds and sunset. "It's raining here in the ancient city, but it's still sunny in Haidong, and as long as it's raining in the ancient city, the clouds in the past are especially spectacular from the double gallery. When the rain stops, you can see the clouds spread slightly and shed huge Jesus light from the hole."

"Go through a narrow alley leading to the seaside, no matter how broken the alley is, you will understand when you come to the end." My mind is haunted by the feeling of a designer who has built a house in Shuanglang for more than ten years when he first came. I went down to the Erhai Lake on the side of Shuanglang, but I couldn't understand his shock. Tourists are woven, shops occupy almost all the open positions by the sea, and the huge cruise ships on the water, even half the size of Nanzhao Island on the shore, can't be seen. The narrow hutong is filled with more than 4 inns, large and small. I shuttled among them, looking for those inns where the swimming pool can reach the sea, but found that the long arm of the excavator extended into the sea. Due to ecological management, the part beyond the ecological blue line on the Erhai Lake was demolished.

There is still an inn overlooking Erhai Lake halfway up the mountain, and there is still a pond at the entrance of the inn parallel to Erhai Lake. When you step back from the pond, you can always find the feeling of being in line with Erhai Lake. But the more you are in front of the beautiful scenery, the more you reflect on the essence of the hotel. Compared with hotels, the standard of comfort can't be lowered. Apart from the hardware facilities, it seems particularly important whether the host is interesting or not. Even if the host can take guests to play, it would be great. Dali is famous for gathering all kinds of people from all over the world. The ancient city of Dali should be a well-deserved gathering place for these people. As early as the 198s, when Shuanglang was still a fishing village, there were European and American hippies visiting the ancient city from Thailand and Myanmar.

go west to the ancient city. Far view is different from near view. The low gray-topped white wall is not against the pale blue Erhai Lake, and the homestays in the ancient city are small and medium-sized scenes in the courtyard, a tree and even a potted flower, all of which show the ingenuity of the people. I came to the ancient city to visit JASON ZHANG and find out what the new Dali circle is.

"In the 198s, the MCA opened by the local Nima was the most famous. At that time, many foreign hippies came to Dali. Nima catered to their needs, and first opened bars on the street. Later, cafes and bakeries appeared one after another, and it became a foreigner street, and Renmin Road was another story. Nima himself is a painter, MCA will be a gallery at first, and part of the space is an exhibition hall, where painters like Ye Yongqing and Han Xiangning hold exhibitions and sometimes even paint on the spot together. Later, when there were more people, Nima turned the three exhibition halls into Datong shops. Many people loved it, and men and women lived together, which was very loose and free. " JASON ZHANG came to Dali in 1998, and was the first foreigner to come to Dali in China. Later, several people simply partnered to open their own inn behind MCA as their own "manuscript room". At that time, what he missed most was a large group of people sitting on the people's roadside, having a glass of orange juice or coffee and basking in the sun all day. All the people passing by are acquaintances, nodding and greeting each other, just like the Beijing painting house where he lived as a child. "When you go down a street, your mobile phone can automatically connect to Wi-Fi. Eating or having a Party at night, on call, was only the idea of two or three people at first, and finally hula could come to a dozen. "

As long as these people are in Dali, the community lifestyle will not disappear as soon as their mobile phones ring, but JASON ZHANG said that since chairs were not allowed on Renmin Road, there was almost no place for him to stay in the ancient city. 216 was a turning point in the ancient city. At that time, the landmark Dolphin Ade Bookstore moved away from Renmin Road because it could not afford the rent, which marked the increasingly serious commercialization of the ancient city. At that time, MCA Inn was transformed into a high-end hotel by foreign capital, and JASON ZHANG's inn there also disappeared.

when I met JASON ZHANG, he closed his house in Shuanglang, and he was busy decorating his new home near the ancient city. I walked to the people's road where they used to bask in the sun, and clothing stores and snack bars have made it impossible to see which city they were born in. Only the bride who stood in the middle of the street and took pictures attracted people to meditate on Bian Zhilin's poem: "You watch the scenery on the bridge, and the people who watch the scenery look at you upstairs."

Although there are still exquisite homestays in the ancient city, the most important scenery is missing. I heard that the idle people moved to the periphery of the ancient town. I went north to Yinqiao Town, which is close to the ancient city, and found Taro, a Japanese man with long hair and beard, who planted radishes on his back. But I didn't find a homestay where his host was waiting for guests to visit at home. Following Taro's route of selling carrots every month, I finally found the host and his home called "the happiest person in Dali" at the foot of the mountain, in a rice field not far from Erhai Lake.

"They say I am the happiest person in Dali." When Pan Liangbin, 4, met me, he had just returned from swimming in Erhai Lake, and his hair had not been taken care of. Although there is plenty of sunshine in Dali in winter, we are basically dressed in sweaters and coats, but he is wearing a leather jacket with a tight fitness vest and a faint tendon. "I loved swimming when I didn't come to Dali. I have been swimming in the open-air swimming pool for more than ten years. The air here is so good that it is wasted without exercise."

He came back in a hurry because we had eaten and rested in his yard, for fear that we would not take good care of ourselves. His homestay has a single house. There is a pomegranate tree in the courtyard. A small building has two floors, with a tea table at the door. The first floor is the living room except the guest room. On the second floor above the living room is a bamboo kang with a small tea table and two futons on it; A Chinese sliding door is separated, and the other side is the guest room. The side facing the courtyard is full of glass windows, showing the fields outside the courtyard and Cangshan Mountain in the distance. The beams and wooden doors of the small building have been polished and brushed with wood wax oil. The wall in the living room is the original appearance of the stone exposed after scraping off the soil and mud. At first glance, it can be known that it is a transformed old house.

"I have pondered over every detail. The bed is customized by me, the bed board is made of local wood, the fabric of the bedding comes from the local area, and the handicrafts mounted in the living room are tie-dyed in Zhoucheng. I hope that guests can feel the local characteristics in the room, and some guests will look good and buy from us. " Pan Liangbin counted from hardware to software one by one. "Pay special attention to the water temperature when you take a shower. I found that the same brand of water heater can be washed continuously by three or four people when I use it in Hangzhou. It's hot and cold here. I asked a worker to repair the pipe, but it was all right. Later, I found that because the voltage was unstable in the plateau and the village, I had to put more water in advance. "

Pan Liangbin talked with us as if he were entertaining guests every day. Although he doesn't live in the shop, he comes here every day. He confessed that he was originally brought to Dali by his family from Hangzhou.

"At that time, my wife wanted to come to Dali to be her younger brother in the inn." Pan Liangbin is a native of Yangzhou. He used to do clothing wholesale business. He and his wife bought two suites in Hangzhou, and the registered permanent residence for the children can go to a good local primary school. He calls his brother-in-law "brother". He remembers that in 212, his brother "encouraged" him to squeeze out 2 days to play in Yunnan with his wife, and turned around all the famous cities around Dali. He thought it was just a tour, but his wife moved the idea of settling in Dali. "She told me at that time that in Hangzhou, it was nothing more than making more money, taking good care of the children and buying a house, so that life would be easier in the future. But this idea is wrong. I can enjoy it later, and I don't know what I have become. Instead of enjoying it later, it is better to enjoy it while living now. "

Pan Liangbin was persuaded. He himself hates the interpersonal relationships that are wary of each other in big cities. He always thinks about other people's motives before eating a meal with others, just worrying about his children going to school. Half a year later, once the child's problem was solved, he sold a house where he was living and came to Dali with his wife and children. "I thought at the time that I definitely needed money to come here, and the house must be sold, but I have to leave a set and leave a retreat for myself. However, I have to sell the one I live in, because if I really go back and the other one needs to be renovated, it will be so troublesome and I can't go back immediately. "

I was curious to see that he chose this "middle of nowhere" place at that time. He explained to me that at first he wanted to follow the trend and open a homestay in Shuanglang, so that he could live a comfortable life and earn some income, but at that time, the seaside price was either a partnership with another company or he had to pay 1 million yuan at a time, which made Pan Liangbin flinch. At that time, they ran all over Dali, and three kilometers outside the ancient city, next to the only road leading to Huanhai Road, they saw a small courtyard facing the rice fields. "I didn't want to do anything at that time. I just wanted to rent it first, and then I could live by myself."

However, due to lack of specific goals, Pan Liangbin fell into an idle situation during his first three months in Dali. Seeing his depression, my brother-in-law took him to Thailand for a tour. Compared with the homestay in Thailand, he thought it was more suitable for a restaurant. At that time, his brother-in-law rented hundreds of acres of land not far away to make an organic farm. The meat, eggs and vegetables on the farm were ready-made raw materials for restaurants. Because there are many Chinese restaurants in the ancient city, it is difficult to compete. They chose western food and invited Spanish chefs and chefs from Cuihu Hotel to do it themselves. "During the renovation, I was dragged into his social circle by my brother, learning sweets from Hong Kong, learning coffee from Kunming master, and learning flower arrangement from Polish girls." Pan Liangbin is busy again, but he is no longer as monotonous as he was in Hangzhou.

The dining room is next door to us, separated by a door. This is the reason why Pan Liangbin later tried to rent the single-family courtyard. After the small courtyard of the homestay was built, the complete model was formed in his heart. The passage between the restaurant and the B&B is located in the kitchen, and there are curtains blocking the door. If you are not staying in the hotel, it is difficult for outsiders to notice. Part of the courtyard wall is an extension of the kitchen, stretching out a hot pot restaurant facing the roadside.

"It's convenient for people in the courtyard to eat in the restaurant, and waiters can also bring food to the yard. If the guests want to eat hot pot, I will take them to our field to pick vegetables. " He was proud of this design, and while we were talking, the waiter in the restaurant next door came to our yard to "pull up the grass". "That's our own basil, which is used for pizza."

I saw two bicycles hanging on the outer wall of the dining room. Pan Liangbin said that it shows his love for cycling. He has recently fallen in love with kayaking and is going to put one beside him. "My life is very regular now. I sunbathe and swim in the morning, take care of the restaurant in the morning and wait for friends to get together in the afternoon. After so many years in Hangzhou, there are only one or two true friends, but it is very simple here. People who meet in swimming add a WeChat and meet every morning, and they become good friends. "

"I once thought about opening a homestay by the West Lake, but I dared not do it at all. Not to mention, even the guests who paid the deposit have to check out, and I don't know how to stipulate the time limit for not withdrawing the deposit. " Pan Liangbin knows that not all people can be as relaxed as he is. There is a brother-in-law Hong Jiaming behind him, and people in the homestay circle call him "Jiaming". He was the first foreigner to build an inn in Shuanglang.

"My brother's biggest change here is having a tattoo. He loves to deal with people, and Dali is especially suitable for him. " I met Jiaming next to Pan Liangbin's yard. As a native of Yangzhou, Pan Liangbin is strong, white and tall, but he is tanned and his hair is short, like an ascetic monk. I went with him to the farm in Pan Liangbin's mouth, which Jiaming rented and operated in 212. It is a hundred steps away from his brother's homestay:

9 mu of land, in which a lake is embedded and an island stands in the lake. Pigpens and chickens and ducks are hidden outside the fence, while geese are in the middle reaches of the lake. The lake separates farmland from grassland. The farmland with organic fertilizer flavor is divided into small pieces, and each piece is planted with the brand of vegetables. Horses graze on the grass, and the island in the lake is full of rabbits.

Jiaming and I walked to the middle of the grass, and from there, we crossed Rabbit Island to the west. Cangshan Mountain wrapped in clouds was in front of us, and Taro carrying a straw basket was halfway up the mountain. Jiaming told me that every other month, there will be a famous life market in Dali on this grassland. No matter JASON ZHANG or Taro, people from all corners of Dali will come here to set up stalls or sweep goods, including agricultural products, cooking and handicrafts.

Farms, restaurants, markets, I found Jiaming spreading a business ecology that connects all the new Dali people in series, and he told me that this is related to his origin, just like all foreigners who come here.

"I have been backpacking since high school, getting in touch with environmental affairs and running around the world. Later, my family felt that I was not doing my job properly, and I was under a lot of pressure. Because I liked to live in youth hostels when I was outdoors, I thought about opening a youth hostel. When I went to Lijiang to study and help people work, I went down to Dali and saw the lake and broad bean fields in Erhai Lake, like the feeling of hometown in Jiangnan, so I decided to stay. " Jiaming told me that the Shuanglang was still a fishing village at that time. When he saw domestic cows and plum trees, he decided to open the inn here. "My inn was first built with a cow house."

Since then, Jiaming has never stopped building houses, but just like the fishermen in Shuanglang didn't like the strong wind by Erhai Lake, the houses by the lake were the least valuable. For Jiaming, although the blue and scorching sun by the lake made him feel pure, when he entered his thirties, he no longer adapted to the enthusiasm of his youth, but turned his heart to the countryside and cared more about the daily life of daily necessities.

for his family, he wants to grow vegetables without chemical fertilizer and raise chickens and ducks that grow naturally. Born as a farmer, he can also do the work in the field. "In addition to 9 acres, there are more than 1 acres next to it." When Jiaming rented the present land, he found that something was wrong with this land near Erhai Lake with his knowledge of environmental protection. After learning from the local villagers, I learned that there used to be two lakes connected with Erhai Lake. During the Cultural Revolution, the lakes were reclaimed and filled. "The lake I see now took me more than a month to recover with 9 trucks and 4 excavators. The other piece was filled shallowly at that time, and it is still a depression. " Unlike Pan Liangbin, Jiaming came to the farm to rebuild the rented yard by the farm, with venues and pastoral products. He also wanted to be a classroom for educational experience. His family has been in grinding bean curd for generations, and he wants to put the stone mill in.

Pan Liangbin's homestay in Dali has a strong shadow of Jiaming. Jiaming said that since he was invited, he had to listen to him, but to outsiders, it was