Urgent! ! The full text of Yu Dafu's essay "Southbound Miscellanies"! ! !

yu dafu

122, Monday, the fifteenth day of the ninth lunar month, the sun is shining and the sky seems to have changed. In the afternoon, I accompanied Wenbo to swim by the lake. I made an appointment to cross the river early tomorrow morning and play with wild geese on the rooftop. As soon as I got home at five o'clock, I rushed to write a monthly essay for Shanghai Shengsheng Art Company, entitled "The Return of Tong Junshan", with 2000 words; What I remember, of course, is what I saw and felt when I went to Fuyang and Tonglu with Wenbo the day before yesterday. But Wenbo doesn't like to see celebrities in classics, so he doesn't write their names, but only writes that my old friends came to Hangzhou and accompanied them to Tonglu. The crooked poem written on Scout Mountain cannot be copied, because the meaning is equal and it has no reserved value.

In the evening, I borrowed a book "Tiantai Mountain Quan Zhi" edited by Zhang Lianyuan Juean from the library, and planned to take it as a tour guide. Because Zhang Zhicheng was in Ding Younian, Kangxi, and the Local Records of Tiantai Mountain compiled by Deng Chuan, Shi Ming was a little later, or the mountains were like water, which was somewhat similar to the Tiantai today.

Looking through the annals, I went to bed at ten o'clock, because I have to get up early tomorrow, and I have to cross the river and cross Xixing to start by car.

Tuesday, 22nd (September16th), sunny and foggy. Get up at six o'clock, just after taking a shower, Wenbo's car has arrived at the door. I was in a hurry to pack my bags, bringing two big bags of cigarettes and alcohol, a box of canned clothes, shoes and socks, a book, paper and pen, and a pillow. These are all thoughtful articles prepared for both of us the night before summer.

Boating to the river, the ferry didn't leave at seven o'clock. Pedestrians loaded three or four boats, and soldiers loaded two boats, waiting for the boats to be towed across the river, because they remembered Wang's poem: "In less than three days, a thousand troops crossed the river!" Two sentences. I don't know if this is the case in the original poem. It seems that all the ancient strategies were taken from Hangzhou by the troops crossing the river on the other side. Sun Wu of the Three Kingdoms and Qian Wusu of the Five Dynasties all had the same military strategy. Bo Yan destroyed the Southern Song Dynasty and the Second Division of Gaoting. Both sides of the river are also heavily stationed, and the Qiantang Chamber will not sigh for three days in Deyou Palace. If the Qianjiang Bridge is completed and roads are opened everywhere, the strategy will certainly change.

Xixing went ashore, and the sun shone on the tiles of others. It was not yet eight o'clock. In the station near the shore, I looked everywhere for the car lent to us by the highway bureau, but I couldn't find it. As a last resort, I had to call the highway bureau to urge it. After calling twice, I said that Chevrolet 509 had passed Jiang Lai at six o'clock this morning. I'm annoyed. I feel that on the first day of travel, the first time I moved, I was not satisfied. I don't know what will come of my trip to Taiwan Province. So I had to go to the hotel next to Xiaoshao long-distance bus station to drown my depression and wait for the bus.

At about nine o'clock, the bus finally came. I asked why it was late. It was the inconvenience of bus transfer. I got on the bus in a hurry and drove southeast. I visited Ke Yan, Lanting, Kuaige, Longshan, Yuling, Yudong, East Lake, Liu Ling and Houshan, and I will revisit them another day. At about 10 o'clock in Shaoxing, the stone fence on the tree-lined road, a song of Jianhu Lake and an empty pavilion on the floating mountain are just like epiphyllum in a dream, showing their faces outside the window.

Out of Shaoxing, the trees on both sides of the driveway are quite neat, and the autumn willows are gloomy and swaying to send the car away, like a wonderful sketch in Master Wang's songbook. Shaoxing from the riverside to the source of Cao 'e River, the road direction is south to east. Cao E broke down, went up the river and drove due south. After passing through Haoba, Sanjie, Zhangpu and other places, the right hand is constantly crossing the mountains in the middle reaches of the Yangtze River (Zhushan Painting Mountain, etc.). ), the left hand is the clear water of Cao 'e River. The scenery is clear and the people are rich. This is really a beautiful place in Jiangnan. Crossing the stream at twelve o'clock, look at the Shengshan Stream Pavilion outside the East Gate of Shengxian County. I went downstairs to have lunch and left.

After the car entered the new field, it walked along Donggang for a while until the bamboo was gradually pulled into the highlands and twisted, until it reached the big bridge, and the ridge was finished. Ask the builders what this is called, and the foreman says it's a guardian (or temple) ridge. I don't know which word it is. One day I will find it when I open the Xinchang County Records. In this guardian ridge, you can already see the Tiantai Mountain range of Tianmu Mountain from a distance. You can cross the ridge, bypass the Tiantai Mountain, and then enter the Tiantai boundary. My family name is Wang and my family name is Yu. When I first entered Tiantai Mountain, I saw Qingxi winding and isolated from the world. Naturally, I also have some evil thoughts. But when I entered the mountain, the mountain peak I saw from afar disappeared, so I sang two folk songs: "It is difficult to know each other from the mountain to the rooftop, without Liu Ruan." Know yesterday on the lake, wenbo had made a playful said to chardonnay:

"Tomorrow we two pretend to be Liu Chen Ruan Zhao, and the choir will go to Tiantai. Are you afraid? "

At four o'clock in the afternoon, cross Qingxi, see Chicheng Mountain, and stay in the Imperial Palace in the northeast of Tiantai County. This temple was founded by the wise Zen master of the Sui Dynasty. Because the Zen master could not see the completion of the temple, he only left a secret word: "If the temple is completed, the country will be clear", hence the name. It is large in scale, with many monks, and there is a Buddhist research institute, which gives lectures and does homework every day. This is really a big jungle, and the rooftop is the birthplace of authenticity. Hua Qing, the mage who came to have dinner with us, looks different, a bit like Dongpo in the painting.

That night, I only saw some buildings in the temple, a Liang Meiwei outside the Galapagos Temple, and a bright moon on the Banxi River. After eight o'clock, I went to bed.

Wednesday 24th (September17th) is sunny and cool. Get on the sedan chair at seven o'clock in the morning and go to Fangguang Temple to see "Liang Shi Waterfall".

Go out of the temple gate first, go east and north, cross the ridge along the mountain stream, and the morning light shines on the hill on this side of the valley. The stream kept pounding, trying to push Shi's weak brother to the night cry. The mountains on both sides of the strait are also green. For example, in July and August, red leaves are sandwiched between them, and only one or two points are dyed. When the stream reaches the end of the mountain, it turns to a small ridge. At the end of the mountain, there are mountains ahead. There is a road pavilion on the back of the mountain, which looks like it is in the sky. A stone step road across the ridge leads directly to the high mountain under the pavilion. Ask the bearers that this is the only way for Jindiling and Huading Temple Fangguang Temple. Had to get off the sedan chair and climb up the hill. Fortunately, when we set out this morning, the monk gave two rattan sticks and put them in the sedan chair. It was only in the middle of Jindiling that I realized that these rattan really had unexpected effects.

When we reached the top of Jindiling, there was a big Osaka on it. People's points, villages and fields are all symmetrical. The rice fields are ripe, but the golden color has not been cut. Looking back, there are streams and distant trees at the bottom of thousands of feet; Far away, you can clearly see the tower in front of the Congress Temple, which is said to be the tower of the Sui Dynasty. Looking further west, it is the rural area in the northwest of Tiantai County, where Shifengxi and Qingxi are poured, which is where our car passed yesterday. The road on the ridge has become three branches, one is our route, the other is south to east, the platform of Taiping Township under Wang Folong is Gaoming Temple (clearly standing on the ridge temple), and the other is facing north, then going to the high mountains, passing through Lengfengque and Chen Tianyang to Longwangtang, which is the avenue from the east to Huading Temple and from the northwest to Fangguang Wannian Temple.

In Jindilingtou, there is a Zhenjue Temple among the trees. Outside the temple gate, there is a monument to the Yuan Dynasty and the Four Years Tang Dynasty. In the main hall of the temple, there is a real bone tower of a wise master. According to legend, after the master died in Xinchang Buddhist Temple in the seventeenth year of Emperor Kai of Sui Dynasty, his disciples were moved and buried here. The legendary Zen master Dingguang waved to the wise master in his dream, that is, on a big stone at the head of this ridge, which is now called "Rocking Rock".

A big village in the northwest of Lingtou, Di Chin, commonly known as Tatou Village, because the common name of Zhenjue Temple is Tatou Temple, the so-called Tatou refers to the bone tower of the wise master; The villagers have no wisdom, that is to say, the tower in front of Xiaoguo Temple was moved by immortals overnight. The tower body has been placed, only one tower head is missing. The fairy moved the tower head here, and the golden rooster crowed. It's almost dawn, so he has to give up the tower head here. Now looking at the sky in the tower in front of Xiaoguo Temple, there is a round hole on it, and you can see the sky like a roof; Jinjiling, the common name is also called "Jinjiling"; But the villagers didn't think well, but they couldn't incorporate Yindiling east of Tatou into their myth.

When I arrived at Tatou village, I saw the great plains on this high mountain, as well as the Pinggu and prospect in the east, west, north and south, and I was already a little reluctant to go. At a higher level, commonly known as "water mill pit" and "puddle" on the plateau, it is even more unconsciously shouted out. There are mountains on the mountain, and upstairs is a new scene, a quiet village with running water, people, rice fields and vegetable gardens; The children were watching the rice cutting, and the yellow dog and the white dog gave us suspicious eyes. There is a Peach Blossom Garden on the Peach Blossom Garden, which gradually overlaps three or four ridges. I still don't think it's on the top of the mountain. This is the strangest place in Tiantai Mountain. If the rooftop is to be built into a summer resort in the future, it is very suitable to be located in Shuimo Pit (the outer terrace of Chen Tianyang and Lengfeng Que).

Go north from Jindiling, fifteen miles to Longwangtang and fifteen miles to Fangguang Temple. The temple is in the middle of Chung Shan Man, up and down. I don't know how many steep roads I have to take to get there. The discoverer of this place is Jintan, which is still revered today. Later, it was said that 500 people really lived here. Song Jianzhong built a temple in Jing (11), which was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in four years (1 193). Its subsequent rise and fall history cannot be verified. In the middle of a valley, three temples were built according to the inclined position of the mountain. China is located near Liang Shi Waterfall, the former site of the Epiphyllum Pavilion.

In this deep valley, the direction of Liang Shi Waterfall is about southwest. After the Dragon King Hall, it rained a little. We didn't bring a compass, so we couldn't tell the direction. A golden stream, an unknown stream, flows from north to east; In front of Fangshang Guangsi, on the big stone beside Zhongfang Guangsi, two streams meet to form a river dozens of feet wide. The river flows to the southwest and rushes to a big stone, which naturally stands there, a bit like a door. I don't know that after tens of millions of years, the gate of this big stone wall was finally washed into an arched hole by dirty water. This cave is four or five feet wide and has a high handle. The water flows through this hole and down the stone, becoming a waterfall dozens of feet high. This is a simple explanation of Fangguang Temple and Liang Shi Waterfall.

Fangshang Guangsi, above the waterfall; The Zhongfangguang Temple next to the waterfall and Liang Shi, boarded the epiphyllum pavilion of Zhongfangguang Temple, overlooking dozens of waterfalls under Liang Shi and Liang Shi; Xiaguang Temple, located in the south of the stream below the waterfall, passes through Liang Shi from China Guangsi and Xiaguang Temple, and stands beside the stream downstream of the waterfall. Looking up, it really is a veritable wonder, a colorful green landscape painting by General Xiao Li. First, there is a Qingxi at the foot; Half a mile above the stream, there is a waterfall that seems to be 10 thousand feet high; Five or six feet high from the waterfall, a very thick and large natural Liang Shi suddenly appeared, which stood on the water and was connected with rocks at both ends. Above this waterfall and Liang Shi, several streams, a cluster of distant mountains and a half-angle skylight can be seen from a distance; On both sides of the waterfall Liang Shi and the stream, there are green bamboos, red and green trees and yellow walls. Unfortunately, the flying angle of a China Guangsi Epiphyllum Pavilion was propped up in the forest on the waterfall, and it was a little delicate and ethereal; If you make a corner of the pavilion again and add some cinnabar paint to match the scenery, then this painting can really be said to be a Chinese odyssey. After we had lunch in China Guangsi Temple, we went around 89 miles and saw a waterfall called "Copper Pot Dripping Water", which was surrounded by a big stone circle and looked like a big urn. On the way down, I saw the water bead curtain and Youlong. Since the copper pot leaked, it could have been going west to south, to Wannian Temple and to Taoyuan Cave. However, for one thing, it is dusk, and for another, the three days we planned to spend on the rooftop may not be enough to go to Taoyuan to learn from Liu Ruan Chengxian, so we decided to give up the Taoyuan Cave of Wannian Temple, climb the mountain from a path, climb the mountain in the stream, and go straight to the highest peak of Tiantai Mountain to borrow Huading Temple for one night.

Thursday 25th (September18th), sunny. Last night, in the cold wind, fog and rain, I climbed from Houshan to Huading. Although Huading Temple was built in the first year of Jin Tianfu, Shang Deshao, but the wise Zen master once sat here for a banquet, so the platform at the top of the temple, that is, three miles away, is still the remains of the wise master. It is said that when the weather is fine, you can see the sea in the east, the mountains in Fujian in the southwest and Hangzhou and Dapen Mountain in the northwest. In a word, this place is the highest peak of Tiantai Mountain, which is the 48,000-foot peak mentioned by drunken Li Bai. Watching the sunrise here is the same as watching the sunrise at the top of Mount Tai, Laoshan Laoding and Huangshan Mountain. Although we are young, we are also ambitious. The night before, we said to the monk, "If it is sunny tomorrow, please wake us up at three o'clock, so that we can go to Taiwan to watch the sunrise."

At three o'clock before noon, a coolie in the temple really knocked at the door. Lying in a thick quilt is still cold to the bone marrow, and I am a little afraid to get out of bed. However, I have made an appointment first, so I naturally don't regret it. I can only bite the bullet and get up from the shadow of kerosene lamps with a cold shiver. I washed my hands and noodles, drank a catty of hot wine and ate a bowl of noodles, but it was still not hot. Ask the coolie, is the sunrise really visible? He also said, "There is still some fog. If the fog can gather, the sun will naturally be visible. " At some point, he had lit the lanterns of Huading Temple, so we had to lazily follow him out the door. A burst of cold wind, a piece of thick fog, all come from the darkness on us; The lantern presents a fog circle, and the trees on the roadside are dark and grotesque, like evil spirits in hell. Suddenly, a strong wind blew away the fog barrier, and the first quarter moon exposed half of its face in the treetops. All around us was white and bright, and then the fog came again. The moon is gone again, thick and thick, like a solid layer of black fog, only the footsteps of the three of us and the sound of crutches touching the ground can be heard; The cold, silent, horrible and strange air surrounded us tightly, which made us a little afraid to speak. On both sides of the road, there are some short Miluo trees, which are slightly taller than people. As soon as the cold wind passed, the branches and leaves rang wildly. The three-mile road from Huading Temple to Baijingtai really broke out in our cold sweat, because the hot sweat couldn't come out, and a gust of wind blew from our bodies, clothes and bodies as if it didn't exist.

Under the thick stone wall of the prayer platform, we opened the door of the tent. We just sat shivering under the candle light and kerosene lamp, waiting for the sun to come out. After Brahma's chime, which was very depressing and quiet, stopped, the sky was a little gray and bright, the fog barrier had not yet opened, and the objects were still unclear. Look at the watch in your arms, it's already past six; The two men discussed it and asked the little worker again. Knowing that they failed to watch the sunrise today, they had to admit their bad luck and get up and leave. But I have seen a magic tower behind the platform for praying for blessings, two stone tablets in front of the platform for praying for blessings, namely "the first peak of Mount Tai" and "the place where the master worships the platform for praying for blessings", and many castle-like awnings, Taibai Reading Hall, Mo Chi and Guichi. But I can't stand the hard work of getting up early and taking the risk.

I went back to the temple, had breakfast, got on the sedan chair and went down the mountain, and then passed countless mountains. After the Dragon King Temple, we went to Tatou Temple by the same route, and the sun lit up, so the scenery in the valley ahead was particularly beautiful, and our stomachs naturally lightened in the morning. When we went down to the south of Tatou Temple and the sedan chair arrived at Gaoming Temple, we didn't even want to see the valley scenery of Minghua, because we had walked more than 40 miles of mountain roads from China, and everyone was hungry. The beauty of this country is really hard to swallow.

Gaoming Temple is also one of the twelve halls of Ming teachers. This temple was built during the reign of Tang Tianyou. It is said that the master's discovery is here. Because he was talking about the Jing Ming Jing of the Buddha Dragon, the wind suddenly blew away and landed here. The master thought it was an excellent temple base. Later, the temple was called "net name" and the main hall was called Zhuan Jing Ren. That's the reason. However, the people who are now called Gaoming Temple are probably named after the temple's dependence on Gao Mingshan or Gao Mingshan's name.

Among the treasures in the temple is a cassock of a wise Zen master and a copper bowl. But they are all forged things; There are only four volumes of Bayeux Sutra and Dalagni Sutra, but we don't know when these two sutras were relics.

Six or seven miles northeast of Gaoming Temple, there is a scenic spot called "Luoxi Fishing Boat", which is a mixture of several strange rocks and mountains, and is one of the eight scenic spots on the rooftop. Originally arrived in Gaoming, we must go to see this scene, but we got up too early in the morning. After a full meal, we were exhausted and under the sunshine, urging us to return to Xiao Guo Xiji to rest early, so we gave up this deep "snail fishing boat" and hurried back. The so-called Eight Scenes on the Rooftop was created by Cao Yuan Wen Hui. The other seven scenic spots are Chicheng Qixia (Chicheng Mountain), Shuangjian Huilan (in front of the National Assembly Temple), Huading Guiyun (Huading Temple), Broken Bridge Snow (near the "copper pot dripping water"), Qiongtai jathyapple (northwest of Tongbai Palace), Taoyuan Xiao Chun (under Taoyuan Ridge) and Han Yan Xixi. There is also the Tiantai Mountain local chronicles monk mentioned earlier, who is also a monk in Gaoming Temple. I have to mention it in particular, because an endless lamp tower behind the temple and an shurangama altar in the temple are all relics of lanterns.

Friday 26th (September19th), sunny and warm. I just visited the rooftop for two days, and I feel quite fulfilled; Today, I'm going to create my own world, take a map of local history and search the scenic spots near Tongbai Palace. Don't sit in a sedan chair, you don't need guidance. At eight o'clock in the morning, from the front of Dajiu Temple, take a bus to the place where Qirulai Tower is located. Seeing Chicheng Mountain along the way, the color is deep purple, and the outline is no longer like the city. Because the sun is in the east and we watch it in the shade, it's different from watching it in the afternoon.

From He Dian to Hefang Village, from east to north, you must cross the stream several times. A row of hills in front of us and a waterfall in the middle of the mountain are our destinations. Tongbailing is the mountain, and Qiongtai and Sima Regret Mountain are connected to the west. The waterfall is the "Tongbai Waterfall", and the width of the waterfall is called the king of Tiantai Mountain Waterfall. "Liang Shi Falls" is much smaller than its size. Unfortunately, pedestrians can see waterfalls dozens of miles away on the official road, which is very obvious, so few people pay attention to it. Once upon a time, there was a waterfall temple and a revival view near the waterfall, but now only the old address is left. "paranormal examination" contains "Hua, swimming in the river on March 3, suddenly saw two Taoist priests on board recruit him and eat millet; I ordered someone to send Huang Yi ashore, but it was in front of Tiantai Waterfall Temple. It was already September 9. " It shows that people in the past had no illusions about this waterfall.

Where to shop, walk ten miles to the waterfall at the foot of Tongbailing, then go up the mountain for five miles, and from Tongbailing head to the north and west, it is Tongbai Palace. This Tongbailing Mountain is not high from a distance, and it is really a bit laborious to walk. But as soon as I reach the top of the ridge, my eyes will be scared by those ghosts; Because Tongbai Township near Tongbai Palace, Fiona Fang Shili, is all flat, dotted with rural fields, rice streams, bridges and forests, surrounded by high and low peaks on three sides from east to northwest; When I was panting to climb Tongbai Mountain, who would have thought that there would be an idyllic world on such a high mountain and such a large plain? Who would have thought that there would be higher peaks around this plateau village?

Tongbai Palace is a Taoist temple, located in the fields in the southwest and middle of Tongbai Township. It is said that the origin of this Taoist temple was due to Sima's seclusion in the Tang Dynasty, so it was built (in the second year of Tang Jingyun). In the first year of Xiangfu in Song Dynasty, Tongbai Daosi was changed. At that time, because the Song Emperor believed in Taoism, Tongbai's Taoist worship was indeed brilliant in the annals. It was destroyed by fire in the early Ming Dynasty, and now the Taoist temple was built in the thirteenth year of Yongzheng in the Qing Dynasty. At that time, the scale was also very large, with the largest stones and stone foundations, which were beautifully carved. Now it's really a disaster, only one imperial tablet still stands high in the broken house in front of the temple. In April of the following year, there was also a tablet in the vegetable field of the main road of the Song Dynasty, "The document of the longevity of the white clouds in Shangshu Province", and the handwriting is still clear. On the west side of the Taoist temple, there are two "Boyi" stone statues, which were transported from Beijing by Taoist priests of Song and Huang. These statues are still intact, but the statue of Sima Wei Zi is gone. Taijun has two famous people who deserve a memorial tablet, and there are many inscriptions on the wall and upstream. The west corner of this Taoist temple is very quiet.

After we had lunch in Tongbai Palace, we walked more than three miles to the west to see the "Qiongtai Shuangque". Passing through 500 templo mayor, the temple is very small, and everyone in the village says it is very effective.

The scenery in Qiongtai is really amazing. A half-mile-wide pit twists and turns, and the inside and outside are five or six miles to ten miles. There are cliffs on both sides of the river, and there are many small holes in the wall, so the shape of the wall is strange. Standing on the rock head, looking at the opposite side, like a big cursive screen of Xiangyang Huang Tingjian, I looked at my feet in the blink of an eye, which was amazing. The black stone wall cut straight down is far more than 10 thousand feet, which is not enough to describe the trembling mood of those who stand on the rock. And what's under this pit? This is a bluish green water. There are two pools which are said to be bottomless. There are also two stone mountains, the so-called Shuangkui. They rise from the bottom of the valley and stand by the pool, like Jiao Shan in the Yangtze River. In the middle of the pit, two quees are connected together, and the middle is as low as a saddle. There are also grass flowers, pine trees and several cypress and maple trees with red leaves on the rocky mountain. If you see them in the painting, you can keep them. Some people say that at the outer mouth of this deep pit, from the bottom of the valley, there are two peaks standing on the wall, that is, Shuangque. But in the name of boredom, no matter what it does. We sat on the rock head beside the immortal and climbed a flat rock peak protruding westward like a peninsula in the mountain valley. We were surprised, happy and reluctant to leave, and actually spent an afternoon. Go back to Fandian along the original road, get on the bus and go back to Xiaoguo Temple, Chicheng Mountain, the sun, only a little tower head.

The three-day date to be spent on the rooftop has ended, but Yan Ming and Han Yan, who are more distant in Xixiang, and Chicheng Mountain in the near future have not been there. In the evening, I lie in bed and watch Xu Xiake's travels, Wang Siren (Ji Chong), Wang Shixing (Heng Shu) and Pan Lei (Tang Jia) of Quan Zhi in Tiantai Mountain, and the Travel Notes of Taiyue Tiantai Mountain written by Zhou Hua, a lay man in Tiantai Mountain. I am discussing with Wenbo whether to go to Yandang by bus or go again tomorrow. Yandang only plans to stay in it for three days. Stay here for one more day, and the wild goose will be cut off for one more day. Didn't Xu Xiake have a record of going to the rooftop twice and visiting Yandang twice? Why don't we learn from him and make an appointment later? This is Wenbo's opinion. He lives in Beiping, so it is not easy to come. I live in Zhejiang. I can come back if I want. Since he said so, I am naturally happy to agree. So I packed my luggage and other things, fell asleep hastily, and prepared to get up early tomorrow morning and drive to Yandang.

1934 1 1 3rd of the month

(Original load 1 93565438+1October1Literature Volume 4No. 1)