Travel notes? ‖? Wang Ping is an ancient book that cannot be read.

Wang Ping is located in the center of Wujiang, where the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal, the Ancient Canal, the Taipu River and the Qiantang River meet. Together with Huqiu, baodai bridge and a night-mooring near maple bridge, it forms the "Ten Canal Scenes" in Suzhou.

According to historical records, since the Sui and Tang Dynasties, there has been a pond road from south to north, during which reeds are divided. At first glance, the sky and water are Ma Pingchuan, hence the name Wang Ping. It has always been a land and water transportation hub in Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. In the Tang Dynasty, it set up a post station in Wang Ping. In the Northern Song Dynasty, there were huge ships of merchants and many rich people, which was a place of dispute between military strategists. Therefore, the ancient buildings in the town have been hit hard by wars, and only a few of them are left, which are not as well known as Tongli and Lili in Wujiang without wars.

But before the 1980s, in the eyes of my hometown people, Wang Ping's position was far better than that of Songling, the county seat. First of all, family members were very ill, and most of them went to Wang Ping District Hospital for treatment. That year, my brother's appendicitis turned into peritonitis, and he was treated in Wang Ping Hospital before he recovered his life. Second, at that time, the crematorium was located in Wang Ping, and "going to Wang Ping" became synonymous with "death". For example, a smoker goes back to his wife and says, "Hum, do you want me to quit smoking? Let's talk about it when we go to Wang Ping! " . Therefore, when people don't say "going to Wang Ping", they must add suffixes such as "seeing something wrong", "buying a fishing boat", "being a guest" and "having something to do" after the word "going".

Growing up, I drove through the 3 18 national highway and the next 227 provincial highway countless times, but I never walked well in the town. For me, it is a lotus in the pond-just a vision.

Sweet-scented osmanthus fragrance, just in Qiu Guang, friends meet to go around, but also happy to go.

At about ten o'clock in the morning, we got on the 748 bus. An hour later, we arrived at the famous Xiaojiuhua Scenic Scenic Area, which faces Wanying Lake to the south.

When my father was young, he led a flock of ducks galloping on Wanying Lake. He talked about Xiaojiuhua Scenic Scenic Temple many times, but I always thought it was just a small temple. Unexpectedly, standing in front of the ground-breaking and rebuilt temple, I saw the buildings in the temple scattered, the cornice hall magnificent, and the golden stupa towering. According to records, Xiaojiuhua Scenic Scenic Temple, also known as Jiuhua Temple and Dongyue Temple, was founded in 1685 to worship the King of Earth and the Bodhisattva Dizang.

We saw the zhaobi, archway and Guanyin statue on the white marble surface of Wanying Lake. Then enter the mountain gate, worship Maitreya Buddha and Bodhisattva in front of the Heavenly King Hall, walk inward, worship Dizang Bodhisattva in front of the Ursa Major Hall, continue on, cross the Dizang Pavilion to the northernmost part of the hall, and turn right to the Ten Thousand Buddha Pagodas. It is said that the tower is brightly lit at night and has become a landmark at night. After worshipping the stupa, head south to the mountain gate. Although I didn't worship Buddha one by one, I walked slowly around the incense temple, and the solemn and quiet Zen entered my heart quietly with Sanskrit.

Out of the Xiaojiuhua Scenic Scenic Temple, turn left and walk a few steps, which is the ancient canal that runs through the town in the north-south direction and flows quietly. There is a leisure trail between the temple wall and the ancient canal. The wall of the courtyard is designed as a cultural stele gallery according to local conditions, showing the historical sites and scars of historical stories, as well as the historical materials of sages such as Zhang, Lu Yu and Yan Zhenqing. Reading slowly, I can't help but be shocked by the profound historical and humanistic heritage.

At the end of the 200-meter-long trail is the famous Ande Bridge. It is said that there are two versions of the origin of the bridge name:

Say it. It turns out that crossing the river here depends entirely on the ferry. One day, a poor scholar who went to Beijing to take the exam but only had three pence on him repeatedly begged the boatman Diao Hua for convenience, but Diao Hua, who had been asking for money to cross the river, was narrow-minded: "It takes at least six pence to take my boat, and three pence can only be multiplied by half." Say that finish really turned around. The helpless scholar jumped into the cold river ... A few years later, the poor scholar became a policeman. He donated 100 taels of silver and built a stone bridge after the donation. People named it "Ande" to commemorate the achievements of the patrol.

On the other hand, Ender is a ferry worker. He saw that it was inconvenient for people to cross the river by ferry, especially in stormy weather, and asked the county official to build a bridge, but the faint official ignored it. One day, the wind was blowing hard, and Ender carried the ferry to the middle of the river. A fierce wave overturned the boat and fell into the water. In the face of danger, he kept calm and rescued the ferry passengers. After learning that this man was actually a patrolman traveling incognito, he begged him to go to the local government to build a bridge. The policeman ordered the county magistrate to build a bridge and reprimanded him for his inaction. The county magistrate later took the opportunity to fabricate charges, exiled Ender, tortured Ender and died in another country. Later, people took "Ande" as the name of the bridge.

Although the plots of the two legends are different, the theme is the same: the virtue of benefiting the people is immortal.

According to the data of Qiaotou, it was built in the Tang Dynasty, rebuilt in the third year of Qingyuan in the Southern Song Dynasty, built many times in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and rebuilt in the eleventh year of Tongzhi in the Qing Dynasty. This historical fact of reconstruction and reconstruction shows its important role in the history of transportation.

The North-South Ande Bridge spans the intersection of the ancient canal and Qiantang River, with a height of 10 meter and a total length of more than 50 meters. The bridge deck is more than 4 meters wide, and the single-hole stone arch is reflected in the water, which is inseparable and quite beautiful. Yan Zhenqing swam to Wang Ping when he was the secretariat of Huzhou. In the five-character poem "Climbing Wang Ping Bridge", there is a sentence of "looking at the extreme and balancing". In the poem Guo written by Yang Wanli, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, there is a sentence of "crossing the city in disorder, and Gao Qiao crossing the mast", which is enough to prove the spectacular shape of Andeqiao. There are thousands of bridges in Wujiang, and Ande Bridge is the most in China!

Climb the stairs, climb the bridge and look south. You can see the vast Wanying Lake and the cigarette-wrapped Xiaojiuhua Scenic Scenic Temple. Turning to the north, you can see rows of white walls and tiles in the town. Although it is cloudy, there is no blue sky to look at, but the slight autumn wind with a ray of Gui Xiang makes people feel relaxed and happy, and their hearts are washed away and forgotten.

Turn left, cross the bridge and walk into Si Qian Lane. I heard that this hutong, which is less than three meters wide and only 100 meter long, is the most prosperous street in ancient Wang Ping town. What is even more surprising is that Feng Menglong's three words and two shots of Qian Xiucai in Qian Xiucai's Misoccupation of Phoenix live in this alley.

However, Si Qian Lane in front of us is unremarkable. Only the archway with "Si Qian Lane" written in the corner and the red lanterns under the eaves show its extraordinary past.

Walking to the west of the lane, a three-story Shikumen caught our attention. When we stopped to take a closer look, the door number of "Xuzhai, Siqian Street" was posted on the door frame, marked with the words "the third national cultural relics survey site". Later, I learned from my friends that this is the former site of Qian Xiucai. In the 1940s, Xu, the former squadron leader of China * * * Qingkunjia Central District, lived here under the pseudonym of Li and worked underground to guide the anti-Japanese armed struggle. It turns out that this seemingly ordinary alley hides legends and red memories.

Go ahead, turn right when you get out of the alley, and a fried aroma wafts over, and your appetite immediately rises with passion. In the past, this store was called "JOE Cake". So is this "Xu family" and that "Xu family" a family?

Do not explore. Looking around the store, there are boxes of ice cream and malt cakes on the case, and Wang Ping pickles and spicy sauce are placed on the shelves against the wall. This is a specialty of Wang Ping that I have known since I was a child, but what attracts us most is the fried apple pie in the pot in front of the store. Ten dollars for three.

The shopkeeper is a handsome man in his mid-thirties, with a short beard and glasses, and some literature and art. He told us that his great-grandfather started the pastry business at that time, and his friend's restaurant next door was also his family's. It's time to eat. Out of curiosity about the Xu family, the purpose of our trip is to eat. So they went into the store and sat down, and each of them asked for a bowl of Hermes vermicelli pot, which is his family's signature food. I have eaten Hermè s noodles in Yuxingji, Suzhou-three fresh shrimp noodles, with shrimp seeds and yellow shrimp as ingredients. In Suzhou dialect, it means "eyes should be fresh." The "Hermes" fan praised the taste is really unusual. Shrimp, beef, sausage, cabbage, vegetables, mushrooms, quail eggs, oil gluten ... are all rich in ingredients, sprinkled with a little pepper, delicious and mellow, and eaten in a bowl, enjoying the pleasure and satisfaction of food rises like spring water.

Chatting with the owner, I learned that this "Xu family" is the same as another "Xu family" 500 years ago.

After coming out of "JOE Pastry", although I am full, I still want to go to the legendary Wang Ping food street-North Street for a walk. Go north along South Street to North Street. I don't know if it's after noon or if this street has become an empty nester. Streets paved with stone slabs are like Li Qingzhao's Slow Voice.

A few years ago, my relatives told me that there was an online celebrity noodle restaurant in Wang Ping North Street. The main ingredients are freshly fried shredded pork and eel. Only dried noodles were selected. There are only two tables in the shop, and only 16 people can sit at most. Business hours are only in the morning. This group of "only" words made my mouth water, but before this trip, my relatives told me that the noodle restaurant was closed for unknown reasons. We looked for it, but we couldn't find it.

Think of the year before the college entrance examination, a colleague who lives in Wang Ping went to North Street and ordered a brown sugar cube cake to distribute to students. We tasted it and agreed that it was soft and sweet, so we asked her to order it for us and then distributed it to the students one by one. One is to win the favor of "cake (high)", and the other is to let students relax in the atmosphere of eating "cake (high)" with a smile. After that, it almost became a convention in our school, a culture of college entrance examination.

I want to see if I can find this shop. Footsteps stopped in front of Mei Feng pastry shop. A couple with gray temples are wrapping green or white jiaozi. The stuffing is very big, and hot air rises from the earthen stove.

I asked, "Don't you make brown sugar cubes?"

"Do it."

"Did a school come to your store to order brown sugar?"

"There are many people ordering, but the school has never been here." The proprietress Mei Feng's financial quotient is not low. She immediately said, "Wait a minute, I'll give you a business card. You can call if you need to order a cake in the future. "

I took my business card, said goodbye to her and continued north. I saw a man in his fifties cleaning up his tableware in a "Cha's Cake Group Store".

I asked, "boss, is there any cake left?"

"It has been sold out for a long time."

"Do you only do business all morning?"

"Yes, after a busy morning, it will be white in the afternoon."

Continue to chat with him, only to know that he has to get up in the store every morning for decades, milling rice, kneading powder, kneading noodles and loading drawers ... People who expected to do business were not as idle and complacent as I saw. He said that a considerable part of his pastry market depends on customization, and the "Gao" we issued to students was customized from him. He was interviewed by CCTV's "Home Far away" program-his shop has long been an online celebrity shop.

Continue north and turn right to Anmin Bridge. Anmin Bridge, which runs from east to west, is commonly known as Beidu Bridge, also known as Beida Bridge. It is an arched single-hole bridge, and the shape of the bridge is similar to that of Ande Bridge. Are An Min and Ender "Brothers"? Express doubt. Du Niang said: In the thirty-fourth year of Jiajing in Ming Dynasty (1555), the Monk Circle was really first built. In the second year of Chongzhen (1629), people were Niu Mingda and Sun Xiujian. It turns out that An De was nearly 800 years earlier than An Min. Haha, I'm afraid only Peng Zu can witness the completion of these two bridges.

Come out from North Street and go around Nanqian Street. On one wall of the alley, there is a big brick carving with the words "Nanqian Street" written on it, "Looking across the street" in Fan Chengda and "Looking under the bridge" in Yan Zhenqing.

I read this poem by Fan Chengda in Selected Poems of Taihu Lake compiled by a high school teacher:

The poem reveals the author's worries about travel, but it is not difficult to see the prosperity of the year and the leisurely life of the villagers like poetry and painting. Fan Chengda, a famous minister of the Southern Song Dynasty who was born in Shihu, Suzhou, must have crossed this river system countless times in his tortuous political career.

I remembered Jiang Geng again. He must have taken this waterway when he visited Fan Chengda, who retired from Shihu from Huzhou. He must have returned to Huzhou from here with a geisha presented by a friend on the return trip of "Little Red Singing and I Blowing".

How many ancient celebrities creaked in this ancient canal? I'm afraid only time and space know.

Sitting in Nanqian Street facing south, you can see an old blue brick wall four or five meters high, which exudes ancient meaning. When I approached, I realized that this was the Chenghuang Temple, which was said to be built in memory of Li Shimin's 14th son, Li Ming. Go out of the alley along the wall and go back to Ande Bridge.

At this time, we want to explore the inside of the Chenghuang Temple and walk into the gate facing the pond. When I got inside, I found a hole in it-the old granary has now been turned into an exhibition space for "Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Collection", showing Wang Ping culture, Jiangnan culture and canal culture?

Like Columbus' discovery of the New World, we lingered in the exhibition hall in surprise, including old-fashioned postboxes, blue-gray artificial leather travel bags, bee sewing machines, double happiness table tennis, red radio, grain depot, rudder and straw bags. One old thing after another, so that the childhood memories precipitated in the river bed of memory emerge one by one?

After leaving Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Collection, crossing Andeqiao and returning to Xiaojiuhua Scenic Scenic Temple, we plan to go to Yinghu Park again.

Going west along Wanying Lake Road, you can see an island in the lake in the distance, which was called Pingbo Station in ancient times. In its west and north, there are dozens of meters span connecting bridges, which are connected with the shore and land. The one connected with Yingwan Lake Road in the north is called "Wang Bo". Looking from the bridge, the flat wave platform has a panoramic view. No wonder the ancients chanted that "the lake is ten miles bright, the crab house fishing village is at home, the drizzle is good and the wind is good, and the waves are flat and the fairy is asked." There is a four-star New Century Hotel on the island. If you stay inside, you will find it interesting to watch the sunrise in Yinghu Lake and enjoy jathyapple at night.

Continue to the west 100 meters, which is the Range Rover Bridge leading to Yinghu Park, forming an "iron triangle" with the other two bridges. Standing on the bridge and looking around, I only regret poetry like lake soup, and poetry only makes me look at the ocean and sigh. Borrow a poem from the poet Niu: "The water in the mirror is bright, and the middle reaches of this platform. Clouds fall from the shore of the lake, rush back to the front of the temple, and go to Qian Fan outside the willow, and a bird comes from the sand. In the past, the ancient walls were covered with raspberries and moss. "

Cross the Range Rover Bridge, go deep into the shade, and walk a hundred steps to Yinghu Park. It is bordered by Qiantang in the north, Development Zone in the south, Provincial Highway 227 in the west, Pingbotai and Wang Bo Bridge in the east. NaHo, a poet in the Song Dynasty, wrote the poem "Liu Ying in the Tang Dynasty": "Sunrise smoke sells spring paintings late, wicker hangs weakly, Shaoguang is newly dyed with goose yellow, and the east wind blows slowly." It is about the spring scenery around the garden site. Walking in the garden, willows can be seen everywhere. I think Mid-Autumn Night or March in spring is the best time to visit the park, and the Hà Thu Pool in the park makes me feel that summer is a good place to enjoy the lotus. There are willows in spring, lotus flowers in summer and the moon in autumn. What about winter? Maybe you can also come to a pavilion in the middle of the lake to watch the snow.

After swimming until half past three, the two decided to go home.

Wang Ping is not great. We feel that we have traveled all over the town, but after reading some beautiful articles about Wang Ping, we realize that we are just wasting water.

Some people say, "Wang Ping is an ancient book that can't be read." It seems worth reading again! Confucius said, "Review the past and learn the new."