Characteristics and manifestations of diet in Song Dynasty

First of all, the type of diet

(1) Grain: As an agricultural nation, the Han nationality has always occupied a major position in the diet. There were no crops such as corn and sweet potato in Song Dynasty. According to local conditions, the food of northerners is mainly millet and wheat, while that of southerners is mainly rice.

There are many kinds of pasta. "What you eat on the fire is called sesame seed cake, what you eat in the water is called soup cake, and what you eat in the cage is called steamed cake". Song Renzong's famous Zhao Zhen, in order to avoid the emperor's anonymity, people regard steamed cakes as sesame cakes, also called cage cakes, similar to steamed bread today. Soup cake is noodle soup, which is in the process of evolution from noodle to noodle, also called noodle. ① The sheep noodles, tung skin noodles, meat noodles and cooked tung skin noodles sold in Kaifeng food store, and the pig sheep noodles, shredded chicken noodles, three fresh noodles and bamboo shoots sprinkled with meat noodles sold in Lin 'an noodle shop all belong to soup cakes. In the late Southern Song Dynasty, "medicinal chess noodles" appeared, which was "only one minute thin, as thin as paper". Sesame cakes, also known as Hu cakes, are sold in Hu cake shops in Kaifeng, including door oil, chrysanthemum, wide coke, thick edge, pulp cake, general anesthesia and other varieties. Some sesame cakes are undoubtedly stained with sesame seeds, while oil cake shops sell steamed cakes, sugar cakes, packaged cakes, lead plates and other varieties. Food stores and night markets also sell white meat Hu cakes, pig pancreas Hu cakes and vegetable cakes. The prickly heat is also called rice cake. Su Shi's poem says that "green oil is tender, yellow and deep", which is undoubtedly fried pasta. There are various kinds of pasta for sale in Lin 'an, collectively referred to as "steamed food". In addition, it is estimated that it should also be made of rice flour or flour. ②

There are steamed buns, wonton and ③ pasta in Song Dynasty, such as plum blossom steamed bread, Cao meat pie, bamboo shoot fern wonton, grouted steamed bread, thin skin spring cocoon steamed bread, shrimp steamed bread, meat cake, sugar steamed bread and imperial academy steamed bread. 4 York's poem "Steamed Bread" said: "Zi Peng Sheng has red meat, and the general iron bar has white lotus skin." It means steamed buns. After Song Renzong was born, his father Song Zhenzong was "very happy" and "gave the courtiers steamed bread in the palace, all of which were golden beads". (5) This is the word "steamed bread", which means good luck. Cai Jing's "family gathering" and "making crab yellow steamed bread" are just "more than 1,300 yuan".

(1) Huang: "Jing Kang Su Su Miscellaneous Notes" Volume 2, soup cake; Cheng Dachang: Xiufanlu Volume 15 Don't Believe, sequel Volume 6 Steamed Cake; He: Zhi, Volume IV, Politics; Wu Zeng: Notes on Neng Zai Zhai (volume 15), distinguishing soup cakes from boiled soup cakes. (2) Senator Meng: Dream of Tokyo Volume 3, Puxi Volume 4, Food Store and Bakery; Wu: Dream (Volume 16) noodle restaurant; Gao Cheng: The Origin of Things, Volume 9, Hu Bing; Zhuang Chuo: On Chicken Rib Roll, Volume 6 of Zhou Mi: Old Stories of Wulin, steamed for food; Countless Victory Records of Old People in West Lake; Ling: The Record of Yufeng contains "local products and food". (3) Lu Juan Jiu wonton,: Rat Pu Juan wonton. (4) Yuan: "The wind creates a small Du" (Volume 2); Lin Hong: The Qing Palace in Shanjia, Volumes I and II; Dream of Liang Lu (Volume 16), vegetarians in restaurants and food stores. ⑤ York: Yu Junji, Volume 3; Wang: Records of Yan Yi's Thoughts, Volume III.

Specially set up a "steamed bun kitchen", in which "people with shredded onion" can't "make steamed buns". This is one aspect of the ruler's luxury.

One is to make biro, which is covered with dough, with fruit or meat and spices in it, and then baked. ② About fried dumpling and jiaozi.

Rice and millet are mainly used for cooking and porridge. There are seven treasures porridge, five flavors porridge, millet porridge, sugar bean porridge, sugar porridge and cake porridge in Lin 'an area. In the Song Dynasty, there was a custom of drinking Laba porridge in both north and south. Kaifeng is called Qibao Wuwei porridge, and Lin 'an is called Wuwei porridge. On the 25th day of the twelfth lunar month, "people cook red bean porridge to worship the god of food, which is called population porridge". (4) Fan Chengda's poems describe Suzhou's customs, saying, "On the 25th day of the twelfth lunar month, rice is like pearl beans", and "Ginger crumbs and cinnamon poured with sucrose are smoother and sweeter than cattle." . ⑤ Peas, barley porridge, peas and jujube porridge eaten in the north, the latter should be millet porridge. ⑥ Glutinous rice food also includes chestnut jiaozi, cakes, bean balls, hemp balls, dumplings, water polo, sugar cakes, honey cakes, chestnut cakes and milk cakes. Gao Peng is made of "white tender, cooked, mashed, mixed with rice flour, added with white sugar (fried) and steamed". Water polo is "sweet soup wrapped in sugar" and rice flour paste is "steamed rice flour with sugar". ⑦ There were rice noodles in Song Dynasty, which were called rice noodles or rice noodles. When describing "rice noodles" in Xie Fangde's poems, he said: "Zhang Huayao's line is straight and flexible. Tanghai is boiling, and it tastes better than soup cakes. ⑧ Zongzi is "a famous kind of millet", which was called "drum" or "drum Zongzi" in the Song Dynasty. At that time, it was "the custom of steaming rice in a bamboo tube", and dates, chestnuts and walnuts were added to Zongzi during the Dragon Boat Festival. Pet-name ruby this custom has been passed down to this day.

Limited by the ancient production level, it is also very difficult for the broad masses of the lower classes to maintain food and clothing. As Sima Guang said, "The farmer's wife eats chaff but not enough." Attending the northern poor usually drink millet porridge, or "chopped vegetables". ⑾ porridge is also often used for disaster relief, such as "Huzhou Confucius official Zhu used rice 800 stone as porridge to help the poor". Ouyang Xiu's poem "Eating Bad People" says, "Tian Jia grows glutinous rice to make wine", and "If you spend winter and spring without porridge in the kettle, you must come to the official.

The difference of staple food between north and south in Song Dynasty is quite obvious. But in the Northern Song Dynasty, 67 million stone rice was transported to Kaifeng every year, so some northerners, especially officials and soldiers, also lived on rice. Song Huizong's favorite "Wang Nai's house is next to a temple", "Snow-colored rice grains flow out of the ditch of Wang Nai's house every day", and a monk "seeps out, washes it, dries it, and accumulates it into a cellar for several years". Cai Jing's "grandson can have children, but he doesn't know his crops." Cai Jing once asked them, "Where does rice come from?" One man said, "Get out of the mortar." The other man said, "No, I saw it on the mat." This is because rice was transported in mat bags in the Song Dynasty. Southerners "rarely make noodles as bait".

(1) Zeng Minxing: Volume 9 of Duxing Magazine; Luo Dajing: Helin Youlu Volume 6 Shredded Onions. (2) Records of Shengji Zonglu (189), Treating Women's Blood with Food, and Cooking in China (1988). (3) Old Wulin Stories (Volume 6) Porridge, Dream of Liang Lu (Volume 13) Going out at dawn. (4) Tokyo Menghua Record 10 December and Menglianglu Volume 6 December. ⑤ Fan Chengda: "Shihu Poetry" Volume 30, porridge line with the number of mouths. ⑥ Su Shi: After Dongpo Collection, Volume 4, Tangyin City, A Pea and Barley Porridge Show Three Sons; Zhou: Records of Clear Waves 1. All landowners dream Liang Lu (volume 13) all kinds of groceries, Wulin past events (volume 6) cakes, Shanjia Qing Palace (volume 6); Tao: Wan Shuo 106 Vegetable Recipe. 8 as high as the sun: Wei Lue, Volume 4; Xie Fangde: Dieshan Collection Volume 3 Xie Rice Noodles. Pet-name ruby things Jiyuan volume nine zongzi. Attending Sima Guang: Biographies of Sima Wenzheng, Volume 48, Official Letter of Visiting Agriculture in Begging Province. ⑾ York: "E Guo Jin? Compilation Volume 4 Chronology of Wang E Shi Hang. ⑿ Wang Gong: Miscellanies of Shen Jia; Ouyang Xiu: Complete Works of Ouyang Wenzhong Volume 4.

The joke said: "The child never sleeps steadily first, and even the stick leans against the door. Why not buy a pancake medicine and kill it? " (1) In the last years of Shaoxing, Song Gaozong, 8 Jin Army retreated northward after its failed attack on the Song Dynasty, and "abandoned the millet mountain products", while Song Jun "had many people in Fujian, Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and could not eat millet, so there were dead people in Japan". This can be regarded as an extreme example of southerners not eating northern food.

At the turn of the Northern Song Dynasty and the Southern Song Dynasty, with a large number of northerners moving south, the double cropping system of rice and wheat in the Yangtze River basin became more common. In April, farmers in many places "had enough wheat and rice", but in some areas, such as Fuzhou, Jiangxi Province, "they were tired of eating cheap wheat and rice and refused to eat it, so they refused to plant it". (3) Yushan County, Xinzhou, "Qi Xie's wife is not filial to her aunt. Every meal is made of wheat, but she doesn't have enough to eat. She eats her own food". In addition, if people grow buckwheat in Raozhou, they can feed it for a month or two. When you are hungry at different times, you can get radishes, miscellaneous vegetables and rice, and you can also live. (4) "There is a mountain between Yuan and Xiang, and farmers only plant millet"; (5) Their staple food is the same as that of northerners. In Hainan Island, "the japonica rice produced is not enough to eat, and it is full to eat with potato and taro bibimbap as porridge". ⑥ Southern Yao people "plough mountains for a living and feed on millet, beans and taro". The above examples show that Renye Fang doesn't just eat rice. ⑦

(2) Vegetables: Vegetables occupy an important position in the diet of Song people, which is known as "vegetables are not as good as valleys". There are many varieties of vegetables in Song Dynasty. In Lin 'an Mansion of Liangzhu Road, there are varieties of vegetables, such as moss heart, dwarf yellow, big white head, small white head, yellow bud, mustard, lettuce, spinach, lettuce, bitter vegetable, ginger, onion, onion, leek, garlic, eggplant, cucumber, wax gourd and preserved wax gourd. In Huizhou, on Jiangnan East Road, the vegetable varieties are mustard, celery (including bamboo celery and cress), garlic, onion, ginger, leek, coriander, Yuntai, alfalfa, spinach, radish, lily, taro, burdock and water bamboo. 8 Fujian Road Fuzhou has various vegetables, such as fermented grains, mustard greens, radishes, black sunflower, white beans, lettuce, Yuntai, Cai Yong, Jinshui, pineapple, bitter vegetables, oriental lettuce, eggplant, amaranth, coriander, Hao Tong, bracken, ginger, onion and leek. Many vegetables also have different varieties. According to "Fungus Spectrum", there are famous mushrooms such as Fugu, Pleurotus ostreatus, Chestnut Shell Mushroom, Tricholoma matsutake, Dictyophora dictyopteris, Maigu, Jade Mushroom, Yellow Mushroom, Purple Mushroom, Four Seasons Mushroom and Amanita Mushroom. ⑨

It seems that there are differences in vegetable varieties in different places, especially in the north and south. Su Shi, a native of Sichuan, once wrote a poem in praise of (1) Zhang: "Gui" rolled down; Wake up alone magazine volume10; Chicken ribs. (2) Xu: Compilation of the Northern League of Three Dynasties, hereinafter referred to as Compilation of the Northern League, Volume 246. ③: Huang Richao (Volume 78), Advice on Planting Maiwen in the Mid-Autumn Festival in the Seventh Year of Xianchun. (4) Hong Mai: "Records of Yi Jian C" Volume 8 thanks and 7 sisters-in-law; Shi Hong: The Collected Works of Panzhou, Volume 46, On Drought Miscellaneous Son. ⑤ Zhang: Supplement II to Miscellaneous Notes of Yungu Slaughter and Burning. 6. After Dongpo, volume 6, Wen Zi Congshu, and Dongpo Continued, volume 3, He Kangnong; Li Guang: Zhuang Jianji Volume II and Su Shi's Poems. ⑦ Going to Africa in the week: 3 people answered the questions outside the ridge. See Zhu Ruixi's Cooking in China19851northern cuisine and southern cuisine in Song Dynasty,19941rice noodle exam. Luo Yuan: Xin 'an Annals, Volume II, Cai Ru; Hidden friends: Xian Chunlin An Zhi, Volume 58, Property; Mengliang Lujuan 18 attribute. Pet-name ruby Liang Kejia: dishes of Three Mountains in Xichun (Volume 4 1); "Say money" volume seventy "bacteria spectrum".

Second, the prosperity of the catering industry

The catering industry in Song Dynasty developed synchronously with the commodity economy, especially in big cities. In Kaifeng City at the end of the Northern Song Dynasty, "the house of street brokers often only buys food and drinks from the shops in the city, but ignores the vegetables at home". "The night market will not reopen until after midnight, and everything will be known if it is noisy." Although it snows heavily and rains in winter, there are also night markets. " The night market sells all kinds of cakes, fruits, meat and soup. And "people who sell tea with bottles." Pay five shifts a day, and the soup shop occasionally fills the lungs and explodes the lungs. The hotel sells more candles, no more than 20 cents per minute, porridge, rice, snacks, occasional facial cleanser, soup and tea medicine. " The catering industry in Kaifeng generally includes restaurants, food stores, cake shops and tea shops. The food styles and cuisines of restaurants can be divided into three categories: northern cuisine, southern cuisine and Sichuan cuisine. "Everyone is extravagant and picky, whether it is hot, cold, warm, whole, or absolutely cold, fine pouring, fat pouring and so on. "Kaifeng has many famous restaurants and restaurants, such as Alum Building, which was later renamed Fengle Building. In Xuanhe, Song Huizong, "The third floor is higher, and the fifth floor looks at each other, each with a flying bridge sill, light and shadow connected, beaded curtains embroidered and lighted by candles". Vegetarianism in temples has also become a catering industry. In the famous Suoguo Temple, "every vegetarian meal, though three or five hundred points, can't tell the difference between eating tea and animals. " ⑤

The catering industry in Lin 'an in the Southern Song Dynasty included tea shops, restaurants, tea-matching hotels, noodle restaurants and vegetarian restaurants. Its famous shops include sweet bean soup in front of the grocery store, candied dates, Guanxiangkou Guangjia soup, Qiantang Waisongwusao fish soup, Yongjinmen Guanfei, Wujianfangmi fried shop, restaurant in the southeast corner of Taiping Square Street, Chaotianmen Lizhujiayuan molasses cake shop, Mansion and Xichun Mansion. The catering industry in Lin 'an often imitates the Kaifeng fashion of the Northern Song Dynasty, and there are also morning markets and night markets, and aquatic dishes are particularly rich. There are all kinds of delicious food in the restaurant. "Anyone who drinks soup can ask for it at will. Although ten guests want it blindly, they might as well. If you sell hundreds of products, you can make supplies without effort, and you are not allowed to make mistakes. Before the wine arrives, set a number of dishes to watch and raise a glass for fine dishes. (1) the old learning temple notes, volume 6; Shi Shengzu: Xue Ji Zhai Zhanbi, Volume 4, "Cooking sugar began in the Han Dynasty, not in the Tang Dynasty". ② Naideon: Jisheng Restaurant in Beijing; " Dream of Liang Lu Volume 13 Miscellaneous Grocery. (3) "chicken ribs" volume. (4) Zhang: "Complete Music" Volume 26 "On Fundraising"; Shi Yang: Guishan Collection 1 Shang Shengyuan Emperor. (5) Dream of Tokyo, Volume 2, Night Market in Qiao Zhou, Restaurants, Fruit for Losing Weight, Volume 3, Surname Trading in Suoguo Temple in Puxi, Xingjie Ma, People Entering the Market at Dawn, Volume 4, Food Store. For the catering industry in Kaifeng, please refer to Chapter 7 (II) of Zhou's Study of Tokyo in Song Dynasty.

The easier it is, the weirder it is. "Local" brokers often have more homes than shops and buy food and drinks quickly. " ①

Of course, the catering industry in the Song Dynasty also showed class differences. For example, in Lin 'an City, "there are restaurants selling vegetable soup, fried tofu, fried fish, fried clams, fried vegetables and fried eggplant. These restaurants are the inferior people who want to eat and go to the market. " There are also "workshops" that produce jiaozi, steamed bread and lung irrigation. "Or those poor, all from the workshop to get goods, direct compensation at the latest. Although there is no penny, you can make a living. " There are many food vendors along the street in the city. Kaifeng's "backstreet or open space is converted into a building, and the back-to-back residential area is called a yard. They are all small houses, selling steamed pears and dates, yellow cakes, steamed cakes and beans every day. " (2) "In Fanyang City, Zhang Er, a citizen lives by selling porridge". "Residents in the west of Fuzhou City, especially those with poor families, can only open small tea shops and often lack food." "Raozhou sells pig and sheep blood cooked by four people and sells people to raise their wives and children. The daily income cannot exceed that of 200 yuan. " ③

There are also restaurants in small towns and transportation hubs. Such as "Zhu Han, a native of Guangzhou, moved south and lived in Chen Da Village, Yiyang County, Xinzhou", "Jingshan, a place name, opened a restaurant and a guest house. In the winter of the seventh year of the Avenue, Nanju people went to the province to try, and the exchanges were very prosperous. " At that time, shops in rural areas and cities often operated restaurants. "Yongfeng and Pucheng villagers built hotels, Yanzhou guests brought silks, and the rooms broke down." Husband and wife are "drunk" and kill for money. ④ "Wang Yiqi, a villager from Dexing South City, is located in the village", and ⑤ this is a single country hotel. Lu You's poems include "Go to the small market in the middle of the night to buy wine to comfort the journey", "Niuyinqiao small market is east, and the store door is the same as the horse", "Singing strangers, buying official wine under the bridge lamp", "Selling cold wine in the grass market", "Hungry cooking sunflower rice from a wild shop" and "Small market has wine bottles", which are naturally inferior to high-class restaurants in big cities. Another poem by Lu You tells the story of his stay in Shilicao Market in Sichuan: "The moon is dark and windy, and the lights and green beds are full." Coarse rice mixed with sand, thin vegetables and other grass thorns. Calm and full, I don't feel any different. "In the Song Dynasty, government-run post stations used to arrange meals for officials and scholars. For example, a poem written by Lu You in a post office in Mi Mou Town, Sichuan Province said: "The post office hastily puts plates and pots, and there are many fruits to buy and stir-fry. " ⑦

Three. Dietary customs and cooking skills

As we all know, the dietary customs and cooking skills of different nationalities and times are very different. It is common for Song people to have three meals a day. Chen Chun said that the poor in rural areas "have not enough meals, and there is only one meal in the town, or there is no food at dusk". Today, the poor can't (1) dream of Liang Lu (13) and Puxi (16). All people go out of the city at dawn and night markets (16). For the catering industry in Lin 'an, see chapter 8 of Lin Zhengqiu's The Capital of Southern Song Dynasty: Urban Economy II. Business. (2) Dream Liang Lu (16) noodle restaurant, Wulin past events (6) workshop, Tokyo Dream Lu Hua (3) miscellaneous sales. ③ Yi Jian Bingzhi (1 1) Zhang Erzi, Yi Jian Gui Zhi (8) You Bohu, Lv Sigong. (4) Yi Jian Zhi Ding Volume 7 Jingshan Guest House, Yi Jian Branch flies a volume 3 Pucheng Road Store. ⑤ Jianyi Sanzhirenjuan 10 Guest of Wangyi Restaurant. 6. Bo Poetry Volume III, Long Wood Night Arrives at Jinduicheng, Volume VI, Niuyincheng Drinks, Volume XXIV, Boating to the Bridge across the Lake on the 4th of early autumn, Volume XXVIII, Village Residence, Volume VIII, Walking in the mountains. All landowners "Bo Manuscript" Volume 6 "Mi Mou Town Inn Drink", Volume 8 "Since Guanghan Family Shili Grass Market". ⑧ Chen Chun: "The Complete Works of Beixi University" Volume 44 "On the Salt of Shangzhuang Daqing".

Can guarantee three meals a day. Fang Hui said that "the temple eats without plowing" and "two porridge and one meal after shaving" generally refer to the eating customs of Buddhism and Taoism in southeast China. He also said: "In recent days, Southeast Province has been studying hard and feeding scholars, and a meal has been broken into seven and a half, and the best white rice is also available. People often eat lilies, and a meal can serve five people. Don't eat more than two meals, and don't worry at noon. " Although it is three meals a day, dinner is different. The main meal of monks and Taoists is one meal, while the main meal of students should be two meals in the morning and evening. According to the dietary customs of the Tang people in the Song Dynasty, "snacks in the morning are snacks", which is different from students' "taking care of themselves in the afternoon". Dim sum is equivalent to hunger today. ②

Nowadays people often eat fruit after meals, while Song people eat it before meals. The ninth volume of Old Wulin Stories records the royal banquet of lucky general Zhang. At first, it was dedicated to dried fruits, carved honey, fragrant and salty fruits, preserved fruits, cut fruits in season, and new fruits in season, and then served as food and wine. This custom is also reflected in the Water Margin, when holding a banquet to entertain guests, the fruit should be displayed.

In addition, there are many regional and ethnic differences in the dietary customs of the Song Dynasty. For example, the so-called "salty in the south, sour in the north, sweet in Siyi village, and light in Zhongzhou and the city". In ancient times, there was no need for hot food in the cold food festival, but "cold food was forbidden to fire", especially "it was popular in Hedong", "January was originally a cold food, so it was called January Festival" and "Shaanxi didn't give it for three days". Is there one in Kaifeng? Not strict. In ancient times, the custom of eating on the floor was completely changed in the Song Dynasty. However, at least some monks still retain ancient customs. Shi Shengzu "once watched Lord Huayan eat thousands of monks in Chengdu", "sat on the floor without tables and chairs, that is, an ancient banquet was set up" and "the dinner room became silent". During the Northern Song Dynasty, the "rice monk of Suoguo Temple" in Kaifeng was in a similar situation. It goes without saying that monks are vegetarians.

Guangnan "Guangxi girls and boys, take their afterbirth, wash it, finely cut it and fry it with five flavors." Invite relatives to hold a banquet and buy wine. If not, you will be angry. (4) Guangzhou people "regardless of wealth, old and young, men and women, from morning till night, would rather not eat rice and only love eat areca". Qinzhou people "die, don't eat fish, but eat crabs, turtles, oysters and snails. This is called vegetarianism because it doesn't bleed. "When the Li people in Hainan died, they didn't eat porridge and rice, but only drank and ate raw beef, thinking that filial piety was right." The Han people in Guangnan and some ethnic minorities "eat everything, regardless of birds, animals, snakes and insects", and their food includes rats, locusts and beehives. Some ethnic minorities also have the habit of "drinking water through their noses", that is, inserting a "small tube" into their noses to drink water. Southerners "take boats as their homes, collect seafood for a living and eat it raw". ⑥ Yao people "grow crops, millet, millet, beans and sweet potatoes for miscellaneous food, cut bamboo tubes for cooking, and hunt wild animals in their spare time to continue eating". When they offered sacrifices to Pan Hu at the beginning of the year, they "mixed fish, wine and rice in wooden troughs and buckled the number of troughs as gifts". Zhuang people like to "eat rice and water". All these became part of the rich and colorful food civilization in Song Dynasty.

China has a long history of cooking technology. In fact, in the Song Dynasty, many delicious dishes were cooked according to the principle of combining color, aroma, taste, shape and name. However, limited by the production level and social conditions at that time, cooking skills could only be enjoyed by a few people in the upper class. (1) ancient and modern examination papers 18. (2) Volume II of Dim Sum, Volume II of Notes on Changing Zhai, and Volume II of Braised Chicken Ribs describe Sun selling fish to steamed cakes, saying, "Dim Sum is OK." (3) "Ping Zhou Can Talk" Volume II, "Chicken Ribs" Volume III, "Learn fast? Bi, Volume 2. (4) Cheng Peng: "Mo Ke Dao Xi" Volume II. ⑤ Answer the generation outside the spine, Volume 6, Betel nut eating, smell, vegetarian food, Volume 10, nasal drinking, general examination of literature, Volume 33 1, cited by Gui Zhiheng. 6. Gui is in Zhi Heng. All landowners "Literature General Examination" Volume 328, Volume 330 cited "Gui Zhi Heng".

The aforementioned "Legend of Wulin" Volume 9 records the royal banquet of lucky general Zhang, and provides the earliest list of royal banquets in China. Among them, there are only 30 dishes for "fifteen glasses of wine", such as "the first cup is boiled quail with litchi and white kidney", the second cup is "milk label, three crisp soup" and the third cup is "sheep tongue label, sprouting belly". In addition, there are ten kinds of fruit banks to persuade wine, such as fried kidney flower, roasted quail breast, moistened chicken and rabbit, fragrant fruit, carved honey, stewed oysters and clams, and ten kinds of kitchens to persuade wine, such as lotus seed duck, three treasures and glutinous rice. Some emperors in the Song Dynasty "gave the prince a few sheets of paper every day", which was written by my wife. For example, there are about 20 kinds of white kidney with wine and vinegar, roasted quail with three fresh bamboo shoots, roasted pigeon, lake fish paste and fried frog. ①

In the Song Dynasty, there was a so-called luxury banquet called "four divisions and six bureaus". The accounting department is responsible for all kinds of furnishings, and the tea and wine department is responsible for tea soup, hot wine, seating arrangement and welcoming guests. The kitchen department is responsible for cooking, and the desk department is responsible for sending cups, cups and vegetables. The fruit bureau, honey frying bureau and vegetable bureau are responsible for the supply of three kinds of food, while the oil candle bureau, incense medicine bureau and scheduling bureau are responsible for lighting candles, spices and cleaning. ②

At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, a magistrate hired a "Kyoto cook" to "carry back the sedan chair". She bought "five points for a sheep's head and ten points for a sheep's head", only "shaved her face and threw the rest away" and said, "This is not for the nobles." Five pounds of onion is just "take the heart of leek, dip it in light wine acyl, and discard the rest." Other servants picked up the rest of the sheep's head, but she smiled and said, "If that generation is really a dog!" " "The" sign "in the Song Dynasty is soup, and the dishes like the sheep's head sign cooked by the chef are of course" fragrant, crisp, beautiful, delicate and delicate, which is hard to describe perfectly. However, the chef had to ask for a large sum of money as usual. The official had to feel "weak" and thought that "this kind of cook should not be used often." After two months, he will be entrusted with other things and kindly send them back. " The "lowest" cook in Lin 'an can't even afford a magistrate, which shows the extravagance of the ruler and the high and expensive cooking.

Judging from the existing historical materials of the Song Dynasty, including the recipes provided by Shanjia Qing Palace, people in the Song Dynasty cooked with water, oil and various seasonings, such as boiling, steaming, frying, frying, baking, etc., which are generally similar to today's. During the Song Dynasty, I liked to give all kinds of food and dishes nice names, which have been quoted many times before. For example, in Shanjia Qing Palace, there are golden rooster, lung-nourishing jade, fairy rich cake, pastry paste, Dongpo tofu and so on. Tofu, named after the writer Su Shi, is also unique. Today, it has become an important part of China's food civilization to get a good name for food and dishes. (5) (1) "Notes on Tibet" Volume II, "Talking about Money" 95 "Jade Food Batch". (2) Jisheng, the capital city, has four divisions and six bureaus, and Meng Lianglu (volume 19) rented the banquet for the four divisions and six bureaus. ③ See Zhu Ruixi's Cooking in China (1993, No.6) and China's ancient "money". (4) "Preaching" Volume 73 Hongxun "Gu Manlu". ⑤ In this chapter, please refer to Chen Weiming's "A Preliminary Study of Food Culture in Tang and Song Dynasties".