There are several kinds of silks and satins. Name more than five names.

The varieties of silk weaving in ancient China are silk, yarn, silk, silk, silk, silk, brocade, satin, silk and so on. Today's silk fabrics are divided into four categories: yarn, yarn, twill, silk, spinning, crepe, brocade, satin, crepe, kudzu, tweed, velvet and silk 14.

1.qi

Silk fiber with simple twill pattern. It was produced in Shang Dynasty at the latest. In ancient times, except for bicolor, they were all woven from raw silk and dyed again. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the geometric pattern appeared more complicated arc structure than the Han flag. In the Tang Dynasty, the patterns of Qi were more realistic, while those of Song and Qi were longer, with bright and dark flowers, mostly filled with medium-sized geometric patterns. After the Song Dynasty, Qi was rare.

2. Twill fabric

Fabrics with twill patterns can be divided into plain twill and textured twill. Plain twill is a single twill or varied twill fabric, while grain twill is a single-layer dark fabric with twill bottom. This variety existed in silk fabrics in the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties, but there was no preserved object. In the Tang Dynasty, the production of silk began to flourish, and the brocade produced in Zhejiang was particularly precious. In the brocade of Li Deyu in the Tang Dynasty, there were many brocade patterns, such as Xuan Goose, Tianma, Bao, Brocade and so on. Silk production in the Song Dynasty was very large.

Step 3: Wait

A thick plain fabric woven from two doubling yarns. A Chinese picture was found in Dunhuang, Gansu province, which read "Ren Kang's father is a horse, 2 feet 2 inches wide, 4 feet long, weighing 242, worth 618" and so on. Use silk, silk, silk, silk? Wanwan, Wanwan and Wanwan are plain fabrics, of which Wanwan and Wanwan are thin or ultra-thin fabrics, and Wanwan and Wanwan are relatively thick.

4. Luo people

The warp yarns are made into silk fabrics with obvious twist by twisting weave-the ground warp and twisted warp are interwoven with weft yarns by correction method to form pepper-shaped twist holes. The Shang Dynasty appeared. Luo monofilaments from Zhejiang and Sichuan were very famous in the Tang Dynasty. Wherein the monofilaments have uniformly distributed holes, hereinafter referred to as yarns. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, the varieties of Luo increased, mainly including dark flower Luo, flower Luo, brocade Luo, makeup Luo, brocade makeup Luo and so on.

Step 5: stories

Silk fabric with uniform square holes on the surface. Gauze embroidery was found in the ruins of the Six Kingdoms Palace in Xianyang, Shaanxi. In the Song Dynasty, the warp and weft of yarns were more sparse and the square holes were larger. The lightest yarn is called "light capacity yarn" and is produced in Bozhou.

During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, there appeared dark yarn (the same color of flowers and the ground), flowered yarn (the same color of ground weft and warp, and the different color of grain weft and warp), golden yarn (the same color of ground weft and warp, weaving golden flowers with a gold thread on the transparent yarn ground) and twisted gold yarn (it is common to weave a dark yarn with a plain false yarn on the ground, and twist the gold thread to dig patterns). Woven colorful patterns with untwisted colored velvet, which is thin and gorgeous, are used for court summer dresses. Woven gold makeup yarn (the difference from makeup yarn is that in addition to weaving twisted gold thread, a piece of gold is woven every 1 ~ 2. This piece of gold is mainly woven in the center of flower heads, stamens and other parts and used for hemming, so as to make multiple garments, one for each. The origin, size, craftsman, weaving date and year are often recorded on the seal, and gold makeup flowers are woven everywhere on the clothes (specially woven according to the specifications, sizes, styles and fancy designs of official clothes and royal clothes). Most of them are made of plain fake yarn, and the background color of the pattern is made of sheet gold or twisted gold thread, and the pattern is made of colorful velvet silk, so most of them are transparent yarn ground, while some of the main pattern decoration areas are.

Step 6

A thin fiber woven from strongly twisted silk. After weaving, after scouring and shaping, the surface of the fabric presents concave-convex crepe due to shrinkage, which is called crepe in later generations.

7.silk

In ancient times, it was a kind of plain silk-like fabric with compact texture, lightness, delicacy and smoothness. Plain weave fabric appeared as early as the Neolithic Age and has been in use ever since. There are other fabrics in the past dynasties, such as Wan Yi, spinning, silk, silk, silk, silk and so on. (silk) and other changes.

8.satin

Since the Tang Dynasty, China has had weft brocade, and the weave pattern has changed from plain warp double-sided weaving to twill pattern with weft. Later, through the improvement of loom components, the number of healds controlling the ground warp was increased, and satin appeared in the Song Dynasty. Only one of the satin warp and weft appears on the surface of the fabric, and the weave points on two adjacent warp or weft are evenly distributed and discontinuous, so the appearance is bright and smooth, the texture is soft, and the thickness can be adjusted according to the purpose. It is an extremely rich and beautiful advanced silk weaving variety.

9. cosmetic flowers

Jacquard fabric woven with colored silk thread by picking process. According to different tissues, cosmetic fabrics can be divided into cosmetic yarn, cosmetic yarn, cosmetic satin and so on. Makeup began in the Tang and Song Dynasties and flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is the representative of the highest level of ancient Chinese silk fabrics.

10. zhijin

Woven fabrics with different weaves of gold thread appeared in the Tang Dynasty and were popular in the Song and Yuan Dynasties, the most famous of which was the stone lost in the Yuan Dynasty. Weaving gold usually requires less flowers on the ground in order to give full play to the effect of showing gold.

1 1.jin

Colorful jacquard cooked silk fabric.

1 1. 1 Jin Jing

Brocade is a kind of colorful fabric, which is woven with colored silk thread and heavy fabric. It is one of the most complicated and changeable ancient silk fabrics. Brocade began in the Western Zhou Dynasty. Before the Tang Dynasty, flowers were mainly represented by warp brocade.

The warp of warp brocade has obvious flower warp and divided warp. One set of weft yarns is interwoven and the other set is sandwiched, with distinct patterns. During the Warring States period, the techniques of warp and brocade developed greatly. Besides tricolor warp and double-layer weave, there are colored warp and brocade. In the double-layer fabric with flowered warp, there is a group of segmented color-changing striped warp, and in the double-layer warp, there is a group of special hanging warp, which makes it a long floating weave. In addition, there is a kind of warp brocade with double weft weave, that is, a group of weft yarns interweave with warp yarns to form a plain weave, and the other group of weft yarns hold up the warp yarns that show flowers and hold down the warp yarns that do not show flowers. However, the brocade pattern in the Warring States period is still relatively rigid. This situation was not fundamentally changed until the Eastern Han Dynasty. Brocade patterns in the Eastern Han Dynasty are generally realistic, with figures and animals galloping in the turbulent Shan Ye, full of movement and strength, and embellished with auspicious words. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, a rigorous, symmetrical and rhythmic pattern replaced the traditional style of the Han Dynasty.

1 1.2 Weft brocade

Influenced by the textile culture of the western regions, brocade in Wei, Jin and Tang Dynasties began to weave patterns with colored weft, which is called weft brocade. Since the mid-Tang Dynasty, weft jacquard has become the mainstream of silk jacquard fabric, because many weft shuttles of different colors can be alternately woven, thus enriching the colors of brocade patterns.

In the Song Dynasty, Shu brocade became a famous variety in Chengdu, Sichuan. Chengdu Brocade flourished in the Three Kingdoms. Ruijin Palace silks, created by Dataidou in Yizhou in the Tang Dynasty, have various fancy styles such as pheasant, fighting sheep, phoenix, swimming forest, etc., and are called "Lingyang Palace Lane". In the Song Dynasty, the style of Jin Shu produced by Chengdu Golden Academy became more fancy. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the production of Shu brocade in Chengdu declined, while the heavy brocade, fine brocade and box brocade produced in Suzhou prevailed for a while, and some colors inherited the style of Song Dynasty, which was called "Song Brocade". Song brocade uses special knotted and consolidated weft yarns, and the patterns are mostly geometric skeletons decorated with flowers or broken branches, with elegant and harmonious color matching.

1 1.3 double brocade

The pattern is displayed in a two-layer structure. Its organization appeared as early as the Han and Tang Dynasties, and became popular again in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Its patterns are all two colors, the front and back patterns are the same, but the colors are opposite. Most of them are small and medium-sized ground patterns.

velvet

All or part of the silk fabric is made of pile tissue, and the surface has fluff or loops. Terry rings appeared in Han Dynasty, and they were woven on brocade. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, velvet had many names, such as Zhang Rong and Zhang Sa Ding.

. I feel elastic, I won't stick to my body because of sweating, and I am firm and comfortable.

helix

It is woven in plain weave by warping and weft breaking. When weaving, natural silk is used as warp, and weft yarns of various colors are dug by small shuttles and woven according to the figure. Finally, there is a gap between different colors of weft, such as "engraving", so it is also called engraving and kerning. Silk reeling technology appeared in the Tang Dynasty, prevailed in the Song Dynasty, and has continued to this day.

(2) Printing varieties

1. Direct printing

Dye or pigment is mixed with adhesive and printed directly on the fabric with relief or hollow board to show flowers. In the Qin and Han dynasties, direct printing adopted the method of combining stencil printing with hand painting, and then further developed.

2. Jia Valle

Silk is sandwiched between two hollowed-out discs, which are tightly clamped to prevent dyeing. When the disk is untied, the pattern appears immediately. Javalle began in the Tang Dynasty and prevailed in the Tang and Song Dynasties. It was still used in Ming and Qing dynasties, especially in Zhejiang and Tibet.

Wring out valerian

Tie the fabric with thread or fabric itself, then dye it and break it into a pattern, which has a halo effect. Strangulation, also known as tie-dyeing, appeared in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, flourished in the Tang and Song Dynasties, and has been in use ever since.

4. Valium wax and Valium ash

Wax Valle is a product that uses wax as resist agent for dye-proof printing. Wax valerian, also known as batik, first appeared on cotton cloth in the Eastern Han Dynasty. It seems to have been introduced from the Western Regions and spread widely in Wei, Jin and Tang Dynasties. Due to the lack of wax in China, anti-dye printing with gray instead of wax appeared in the Tang Dynasty, also known as gray valerian, which was widely used in cotton fabrics in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, that is, the popular blue printed cloth.