Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - What famous designers are there in British history, in all aspects?

What famous designers are there in British history, in all aspects?

Lin Chun, a famous British architect, is the chief designer of Studio 8 Architects, a famous British architectural firm. Originally from Fujian, he was born in Malaysia. /kloc-0 graduated from AA College in London in 1987, and/kloc-0 founded Studio 8 architectural firm in 1994. He is now a professor in the Department of Architecture and Cultural Design of bartlett, University of London. In 2004, Lin Chunchun was selected to represent Britain in the biennial Venice Architecture Festival, and was selected as one of the cutting-edge talented architects in Britain by the British newspaper The Guardian.

Jan Kaplicky, a Czech-born famous British architect, went into exile at the age of 365,438+0 and became famous in Britain. In March 2007, Jan Karp Riski and his "Future System" architectural design institute won the architectural design competition of the New Czech National Library. An international judging panel, including top architectural design experts and UNESCO officials, awarded them the first prize for their works from more than 400 architectural design schemes from all over the world in Prague almost without objection.

Allen Tye, a famous British royal industrial designer, is the general manager and chief designer of Allen Tye Design Company. He is 60 years old now. He is not only a senior architect, but also an industrial designer with more than 20 years of industrial (product) design experience. He has served as a member of the Design Selection Committee of the British Institute of Industrial Designers, a special adviser on industrial design of the International Academic Review Committee, and a member of the British Industrial Designers Qualification Examination Group. 1986 was awarded the title of "Royal Industrial Designer", the highest honor of British industrial designers, because of its "high standard and high efficiency in special creative design". In addition to Britain, 46 newspapers and periodicals in Germany, Denmark, Japan, Australia, Italy, the United States, Finland and some Arab countries published articles introducing and commenting on Mr. Allen Tai's design works. The concept of "Healthy Industrial Design" (abbreviated as HID) first put forward by him is very influential in Britain, and HID has become the commercial symbol of Allen Tai Design Company.

John Gariano is the most touching romantic legend in the fashion world-from the clothes he designed, his colorful background to his miraculous fame, all these are like the most wonderful fairy tales. However, he is also a designer who doesn't want to go back to the ivory tower, and he doesn't want to be regarded as a designer of a clothing manufacturer.

In the spring/summer collection of haute couture released in Paris, people always guess in advance what fantastic creative performance John Gariano, the chief designer from Dior, will bring. After all, in the past, designers used spruce trees with a height of 12 to turn the interior of a huge gymnasium in the suburbs of Paris into a charming forest. Later, he created a Manhattan-style skyscraper scene in the caruso of the Louvre, which was used to decorate Paris, a conference place that has been lackluster, even including trash cans with famous CD trademarks printed on the side and crumbling towering chimneys. What's more famous is the most successful fashion tea party in the world hosted by Gariano at the Paris Opera House-partly the colors of English country gardens and partly the amorous feelings of Russian ballet. The most amazing thing is that Gariano occupied the whole Austerlitz railway station, rented a steam engine train to transport the model back and forth, and turned the whole platform into a Moroccan open-air market. Exotic curtains, extra fresh mint tea and dark orange gravel floors adorn them.

Of course, unless it's an accident, it's not John Gariano! He will also bring the christian dior Fashion Show back to the salon-the fashion show will be held in a single room with no more than 60 people at a time. Without the thrilling sound and DJ Jeremy Harry, without the dazzling lights, without the presence of more than 2,000 media people, without the cameras tracking the most beautiful models in the world and the spotlights shooting at the top ranking people, everything became quiet and restrained. A circle of spectators can see the clothes clearly at close range and hear the slight sound of silk skirts. More than ever, Gariano, who should be busy backstage at ordinary times, introduced the whole series in person. He stood there, holding a tissue in his hand, looking at the book nervously, with a shy blush on his face from beginning to end.

Gariano regards surrealism as his source of inspiration: "As Dali and Cocqueteaux know, wit is always romantic." He said that he was "always fascinated by the relationship between Dali and his wife Gallas and the gender advantage between them". Finally, among those who inspired him, he mentioned Ms. Ivanda, a famous surrealist photographer who persuaded her subjects to dress like Greek gods. "She comes from Strihan, London." Gariano said. In this typical game between the upper class and the lower class, he brought the whole performance back to reality with a loud noise, only blinked before leaving the room and added, "Just like me." After lunch in a restaurant near his Paris studio, I asked Gariano if the dramatic effect of his speech might distract the audience from clothes, after all, clothes themselves are really important.

"I know that's not the most important thing," he snapped his fingers. "Some people think I don't have to do this, but this is the background of the whole series and one of my favorite design methods." For Gariano, even the invitation to the press conference-a pair of crimson ballet shoes, a faded love letter or a beautiful bracelet hidden in a Russian doll-is an intrinsic part of the whole performance and needs careful preparation. Even the clothes hangers are very beautiful, and the bright sky-blue letter "john galliano" is printed on the deep purple velvet. Similarly, the designer changes his appearance with each season's clothing, from a bluffing pirate to a handsome Don Juan, from an English gentleman in a suit and tie to a rastafarian with bleached blond hair, all of which contain the information he tries his best to convey.

"The venue is part of the whole story," he explained. "I don't need to hang my name behind the runway to remind people that they know where they are. I often fantasize that I can hold two press conferences at the same time and let people choose which one to watch. Maybe I will do that one day. One is the performance with traditional white lights and white booths, and the other is the performance with completely Gariano style. I bet everyone will choose a dramatic statement. Nobody will go to the usual one. They will feel offended and call it a secondary performance. " Indeed, most of the most expressive images in today's fashion world come from Gariano, which is one of the reasons for choosing him wisely. Some people may say that it is dangerous for us to take for granted the strange world created by Gariano, and it is even more impolite to take it for granted. So, I once again got up the courage to discuss the possibility of this backlash with Gariano, and this time I quoted people's accusations that his clothes were not modern enough.

"What is modernity?" He asked, obviously a little skeptical. "If you insist on this definition, I believe my design is modern. This is a completely abused word. What does "modernity" mean to most people in this game? GUCCI or PRADA? Their interpretation of modernity also contains historical factors. "

Prada has always been inspired by the 1950s and 1960s, while Gucci reinterpreted the 1970s and 1980s. Perhaps in this era of minimalism and emphasis on function, which we are proud of, Gariano's elaborate production seems to be somewhat unbalanced. Undeniably, sportswear has never belonged to this unique designer's vocabulary, and pragmatic fashion has never appeared in Gariano's handbook.

"The definition of minimalism itself came from the 1960s." Gariano's press officer correctly pointed out.

"I think that only by interpreting clothing with today's fabrics, technology and influence can we have everything modern." Gariano added. You know, when I first used the bias cutting technique, people said,' Oh, that's retro.' At that time, you could only buy the most comfortable clothes at the flea market. Bias cutting is actually the most modern form of elasticity. You cut the cloth diagonally so that you can stretch it even without lycra. Nowadays, everyone is using bias cutting, and you can even buy it at Max & Spencer. "Now, bias cut dresses are back in fashion, and jackets with bias cut technology have become one of Gariano's greatest contributions to modern fashion. They freed women from shackles and liberated their bodies. They are no longer exclusive to slim bodies.

John Gariano, 46, was born in Gibraltar to a Gibraltarian father and a Spanish mother. They named him john carlos Antonio. "I left Gibraltar when I was six years old," he told me, "so I have a lot of travel experience." For example, in order to go to school in Spain, he crossed Tangier in northern Morocco. For Gariano, the searing Mediterranean tendency and preference for exoticism did not come from any fashion textbooks, but benefited from his early experiences. "All this-Muslim amphitheater, bazaar, knitwear, carpets, spices, aromatic plants and Mediterranean colors-has created my love for textiles."

/kloc-at the age of 0/6, Gariano entered East London College, where he met some people more like him and discovered the charm of art. After graduation, he entered St. Martin's Central College, and a star was born.

"I am a good student," Gariano said humbly. "Sheridan Bennett is my mentor. I study very hard, either staying in the library or sketching endlessly. " He also studied under Stefan Marks and Tommy Nutt. Today, Max has been recognized as the most influential figure in the field of British fashion trade. In the evening, Gariano went to the National Theatre as a tailor.

At that time, Gariano's graduation series in Saint Martin was called "freak", which was one of the greatest moments in the fashion history of this century. Gariano believes that he was inspired by designing clothes for the national theatre's play Dandong. They turned their coats upside down-that's 1984, deconstruction has not appeared in the clothing dictionary-and there are very loose and romantic cicada yarn shirts, which are impeccable even on today's catwalk. Gariano personally made every detail, from the broken magnifying glass as an accessory to the ribbon sewn into the coat.

"I was totally immersed in the performance, and it completely swallowed me up," Gariano said. "I still like it. I still like romance, such as decorating cobblestone streets with cicada yarn. Many things in this series still haunt me today, and of course some things have calmed down. "

Sally Brompton, the fashion editor of The Observer at that time, witnessed Gariano's performance. "All the audience were taken in," she said. "His talent is so extraordinary. This is a rare experience. You see something and find that it shines with talent. "

Of course, it takes a price to become the most concerned fashion designer at present. You have to stand in the spotlight to get ready.

"I feel a lot of pressure," he admits now. "You must grow up in public. You make a fool of yourself in front of people, but you have to go on working. So what? This is also part of a person's growth. "

The appointment of Gariano as Givenchy designer should be one of the most sensational publicity plans in fashion history. There were rumors months before the official announcement. After the official announcement, the media was very excited. Before Gariano designed the first complete suit for the new company, Givenchy made headlines.

"I can't tell anyone, not even my parents," Gariano said. "As long as I tell a person, even my best friend, he will tell his good friend. It's terrible. "

Shortly after Gariano took office in Givenchy, new rumors followed, saying that Alexander McQueen would take Gariano's current position, so that he could transfer to the most prosperous christian dior fashion company. At this point, the scandal in fashion has come to an end.

During the interview, Gariano wore a short and thick sweater and black jeans, oversized Nike soft sneakers on her feet, a fashionable black beret on her head, and a pair of huge hoop earrings hung beautifully. He said that one Friday night after taking over Givenchy for nearly a year, he received a phone call from Mr. Arnold, whose dress style was exactly the same as today.

"This is amazing." Gariano said that he is still immersed in the mood at that time. "I almost fell off the chair. I think I must have screwed up in Givenchy. At 6 o'clock in the afternoon, I received a phone call asking me to go to Mr. Arnold's office. I said to myself,' Oh, shit,' because I was unprepared. So when he asked me to do this job, I almost fell off my chair. " He smiled and said proudly, "Yes!"

Today, Gariano designs 12 clothing series every year. Dior store is like a big supermarket in Gariano, full of wedding dresses, petticoats, shoes, handbags and, of course, cosmetics and perfume. Some time ago, I went to his "supermarket" and found that it was crowded with customers of all ages, queuing to buy the image created by Gariano. Today, this designer has been sought after by people, or has always been so.

After lunch, I went back to his studio Gariano took the time to show me the garden in the front yard, and even here there is no lack of his logo. "Look at this little fountain," he said, pointing. "We planted some bulbs there." In the polluted center of Paris, there are lush vegetation, sparkling waterfalls and beautiful terraces. "We want the feeling of a midsummer night's dream." The designer said.

I asked Gariano how he wanted future generations to remember him, and he replied, "I think he is a romantic". John Gariano is indeed the most touching romantic legend in the fashion world-from the clothes he designed, his colorful background to his miraculous fame, all these are like the most wonderful fairy tales. However, he is also a designer who doesn't want to go back to the ivory tower, and he doesn't want to be regarded as a designer of a clothing manufacturer. Perhaps because of this, any slight criticism will annoy him.

"I have a lot of things to do," he said. "So many jobs, perfumes, new stores, I want to design men's wear ..."

Gariano's strength is beyond doubt. As long as he makes up his mind, everything is possible, everything is possible and perfect.