Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - How to shoot HDR scenery with D80 D90? Recently, I want to try to take landscape photos of HDR. It is better to have detailed methods and parameters. Thank you for your help.

How to shoot HDR scenery with D80 D90? Recently, I want to try to take landscape photos of HDR. It is better to have detailed methods and parameters. Thank you for your help.

HDR stands for high dynamic range, which is a post-processing technology. By taking one or more photos and merging them, and then adjusting the contrast, we can get images that can't be taken by the conventional aperture shutter combination. In fact, whether it is film or digital camera, the photos they take are not the same as what our eyes see and feel. The human eye will not see the scenery with fixed aperture value and shutter time. Sometimes, we shoot some wonderful scenes, but when we show them to others, we still can't help it. I wish you were there. Even the best photographer with the best equipment can hardly record the scenery the way he sees it. Cameras can faithfully record lines, colors and shadows, but they can't remember and imagine like our brains. When we observe a scene, our eyes will constantly move to adapt to the light, thus combining a scene that has been adjusted to adapt to observation. The camera can only take photos of one parameter combination. Taking the Mac platform as an example, this paper introduces the production process of HDR, but the software he uses is available on both MAC and PC platforms, including: Photomatrix, a famous HDR processing software. It is easy to find Photoshop, post-processing Noiseware, and reduce the noise of LucisArt-because you need to take several photos to put them together, unless you have the terminator's arm, you still need a solid and stable tripod, preferably with a cable. What? Is the tripod too heavy and troublesome? You, you, you want to make a good movie, but it's too much trouble? Choosing an HDR scene is very important. Imagine a scene with both extremely bright and extremely dark scenes. You can see the bright and dark details with the naked eye, but you also know that the camera can't shoot them at the same time-you won't shoot the camera directly at the sun (what, your camera can shoot? You don't have to watch it anymore. Sell your camera. Canon, Nikon and Sony have all been defeated by you. However, with HDR you can. HDR will open a whole new world. The more works you shoot with HDR technology, the more sincerely you will appreciate and appreciate our colorful world with changing light, and prepare for HDR by setting the camera to aperture priority mode. This is very important, and you don't want the lens glare in the final photo to be like a horror movie. (Note: It is estimated that the author means that if the aperture is not given priority, the aperture size may change in several photos with different exposures, and the light and shadow effect of the photos will be different. Welcome to discuss) Set the camera to automatic surround exposure. If the camera can only take 3 photos through automatic exposure, set the exposure compensation to -2EV, 0 and +2EV. Nikon D3x used by the author is generally set to -2,-1, 0,+1, +2. In most cases, the compensation range of +2 to -2 is satisfactory enough, unless you are shooting a very bright scene outside the window in a very dark room. When it is particularly bright or dark, the author usually takes 5 pictures, -2,-1, 0,+1, +2. Don't forget that your camera may be set to take only three photos at a time. Try shooting in RAW format. JPG is not impossible, but RAW is more flexible in post-processing. RAW saves more information than JPG. However, when dealing with it in Photomatix, there is no difference between RAW and JPG. Be sure to use a tripod. This is Photomatix. In fact, any fool can do this. Photmatix needs at least 3 photos for HDR processing, then it can make a tone map, and finally save the processing results in JPEG format. Photmatix can be used in three ways: making HDR works with multiple photos surrounded by exposure (most of the time), processing a large number of photos at a time, and converting a single photo in RAW format into HDR. This tutorial mainly describes the first usage method in detail, and the last two are briefly explained. In fact, the first one is clear, and everything else is easy to handle. The following picture is a screenshot after starting photomatix (don't forget that the author made the demonstration on a mac, and the PC is similar). After starting Photomatix, there is basically only one menu in the interface. First of all, you have to choose the original picture. Note that the author has chosen a picture in RAW format here. In fact, he should first convert these pictures into JPG format, which is also the suggestion of Photmatix website. Select the photo you want, and then click OK. Then a second dialog box will appear, and the following figure shows the settings commonly used by the author (in fact, nothing is selected). Because he used a tripod and cable release, he didn't have to worry about camera shake. If you are shooting by hand, obviously you need to select "Align Source Image". Try other options according to your actual situation. I think other denoising software is better, and the effect of correcting halo in Photoshop is better, so I don't choose the above options. Anyway, after a few more tests, you will know the effects of various options, and then click the generate HDR below, and wait ... your computer will toss for a while. Then you will see a strange photo, which actually produces an HDR image. This photo is of little use until the tone mapping is completed. So, click the "Tone Mapping" button (which can also be found in the menu) to open a new dialog box with a bunch of high-tech appearance options. Every photo is different, so how to set the options here is not certain. Of course, the consequences of chaos will be as shown in the figure below. Although this effect is also shocking, most people may not appreciate it. The core setting is "Fairing" five radio buttons. Generally speaking, the fourth option is enough. Don't try the fifth easily. As for other options, here are some suggestions from the author: Strenth should be adjusted to 100%, because we have to call back later in Photoshop. Pay attention to color saturation, which is easy to supersaturate. The luminosity setting should also be adjusted to the right as far as possible, unless it looks too peaceful. The higher this setting, the brighter the glow effect. Black and white points generally need to be adjusted, and the histogram should be surrounded by two triangular markers as far as possible. Micro-smoothing can adjust the contrast of details. The author usually sets it to 0, and if there is a problem, go to Photoshop to fix it. After adjustment, click Process, and then save the result as JPG.

Hope to adopt