Can Chinese rose be hydroponic? What are the skills?

Cuttings should use shoots, preferably big shoots on big buds, and old shoots are not easy to take root. When cutting after flowering, leave as many leaves as possible. The most important thing is that the incision should not be too far away from the leaves, preferably about 5CM.

I have been trying to cut roses this year, and I have succeeded recently. About 30 degrees, in a bright place, don't direct sunlight. Put them in water first and then transplant them after taking root.

I used to follow the methods in books, and it was difficult to take root, so I experimented on my own.

1, after pruning, don't remove all the leaves, try to stay. Leaves are the source of nutrition produced by photosynthesis. The more leaves, the faster they take root.

2. It is best to cut off all the newly-extracted branches and cut them on the nodes of the trunk, where new roots are most likely to grow. Because the new branches are germinated by spores, they can be broken off by hand, and they have just been broken off from the joints of the trunk.

3. If the incision is more than 5CM away from the bottom leaf, the branches should be cut off at the waist, and the incision should be 5CM away from the bottom leaf as far as possible. This is done so that the nutrients produced by photosynthesis of leaves can be easily transported to the bottom to take root.

4. Plug it directly into tap water. There is no need to change water or let tap water stand for chlorine removal. I have never changed the water. If the weather is too hot and the water is dirty, you can change the water. Water is not important anyway.

5. Remove all the megaspores from the top leaves and branches. This is to prevent nutrients made by old leaves from being wasted on new leaves or to prevent branches from sprouting before taking root. If they germinate before taking root, cutting will soon fail! But if there are tiny spores, you can leave one. Tiny spores will not germinate after the branches are cut off, but will germinate after taking root.

6, in the environment of 25-30 degrees, in bright places, avoid direct sunlight, do not need any rooting agent, take root for more than 15 days, if the leaves are only 1CM away from the incision, 10 days will also take root.

7. You can also spray some 0.0 1% urea water or 0.0 1% KH2PO4 water solution on the leaves. You don't have to spray. I've tried several kinds, some are very strong, and some are s after spraying.

8. Some Chinese roses will wither a few leaves after being inserted into water, but not all leaves will wither. At this time, the bottom will sprout and take root, probably because the old leaves withered and transferred nutrients to the bottom to take root (personal guess).

8. The question is when to transplant after rooting and the survival rate of transplanting. After all, so many leaves are fished out of the water, their evaporation must be very large, and there are not many new roots, for fear that they will not be able to absorb water supply.

By the way, if the incision is on the node, the root will grow directly from the node. If the branches are cut from the middle, white spots will first form on the cambium of the incision, and then the wound will heal and regenerate roots.

It doesn't matter how you insert it, you can insert it obliquely, and it doesn't matter if the cut is at the bottom of the bottle. I also put it in Wahaha fruit bottle and Wang Laoji's tin can, because there are leaves on the bottle mouth, so I don't have to be afraid of hurting the petiole. In fact, such support will not hurt the petiole.

I can't see the sun mainly because it's still hot. If you get sunburned, the local temperature will exceed 35 degrees. Generally, roses will sleep above 35 degrees, which is not conducive to growth. At the beginning of September, I also took the cuttings outdoors to bask in the sun, thinking that this would speed up photosynthesis. As a result, after half a month of sun exposure, the incision has no roots, but the branches are still fresh and tender. So I moved the cuttings that had been dried for half a month indoors, and the roots came out immediately after five days!

Not seeing the sun does not mean putting the cuttings in a dark place, but in a bright place, such as a balcony facing north. It doesn't matter if the cuttings are dried for an hour at night. If you put it indoors, pay attention to ventilation. Without ventilation, all the leaves may turn yellow and fall off. If they are placed in a ventilated place, the nutrients in the leaves may transfer to the bottom to take root.

There is still one thing I haven't said, that is, the cuttings should be thicker, and the cuttings below 2mm should be avoided as far as possible, and those above 3mm are better.

This is not a transplant. Continue hydroponics, the roots have grown a lot.

When the roots grow to about 1cm, they can be transplanted into the soil. Plain soil refers to clean soil that is not fertile. The peat soil sold in the market is also very good, and fine mountain mud can also be used. It's better not to use sawdust, because I'm also doing experiments, and I'm afraid the nature of sawdust is not suitable for planting Chinese roses. Just plant flowers with small flowers. Be careful not to hurt the roots when planting. These roots are very fragile now. After 3 days, the roots can grow to 2-3cm, and there will be surprises. Some of my branches will be transplanted when the root is 3 cm, and some will be planted in1mm. Anyway, I have more than 10 branches, so I will do experiments one by one. Pay attention to avoid light about 15 days after transplanting, but don't water it indiscriminately, it will rot the roots.

Picking leaves is not good for you, because these leaves will produce nutrients that will take root in the future, and some will turn yellow directly, turning nutrients into roots. I don't know if your branches have not taken root yet, is it related to the picking of leaves? The most important thing in water insertion is the amount of leaves left. Under the same temperature and humidity conditions, the more leaves you leave, the faster you take root! In fact, you can find some Wahaha fruit and milk beverage bottles, Wang Laoji, Coca-Cola cans, Sprite bottles and even beer bottles, all of which can be used to insert water, because the mouth is small and just supports the leaves, so the water will not fill the leaves. It is not good to cut with disposable wide-mouthed plastic cups, and the leaves will be filled with water, which is not good for cutting.

It will be transplanted in a few days. If the leaves turn yellow after transplanting, don't be afraid, it is the leaves that transport nutrients to the bottom to take root. In fact, the incision should be cut directly at the node, and the incision should be as close to the bottom leaf as possible, and the farthest should not exceed 5CM. Your branches should be old branches. If it is a tender branch, the thicker it will take root, so in fact, the thick branch is much better than the thin branch, so when choosing.

I have been using a bottle with a narrow mouth, and the incision is facing the bottle wall, which does not affect rooting.

All my cuttings survived, and the survival rate was 65,438+000%. A variety has eight cuttings, and they all take root. Today is too much. I threw away a few weak ones. Now I temporarily transplant them into a transparent plastic bottle. Plastic bottles are 1.25 liter or 0.6 liter coca-cola bottle. Cut off the upper part, leaving the lower part 10cm high, and dig a few small holes under it with hot wire. One week after transplanting, some elements such as 0.05% compound fertilizer, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium can be applied. After just 20 days, many white roots have been seen on the bottle wall, which has grown a lot. There were two stout branches that took root at the earliest, and now two large spores are pulled out from the upper part of the branches and are growing vigorously. The other one has pulled out a bud, which seems to be in bloom. I feel dizzy so fast!

Branches with water inserted like this, because there are more leaves left, will grow more vigorously after taking root, and will not grow as weak as the method cut out in the book. So now I will strengthen the supply of fertilizer and water, so as long as there is fertilizer and water, let them bloom well, haha!

If the leaves turn yellow after transplanting, don't be afraid, it is the leaves that transport nutrients to the bottom to take root. In fact, the incision should be cut directly on the node, and the incision should be as close to the bottom leaf as possible, and the farthest should not exceed 5CM. Your slow-growing branches should be old branches. If they are shoots, the thicker they will take root. In fact, thick branches are much better than thin branches, so they should be tender, thick and strong when choosing.

I have been using a bottle with a narrow mouth, and the incision is facing the bottle wall, which does not affect rooting.