David Xu photographer

Edit | Nana

Photography | Xingcui Studio

Produced | Fashion The Secret Behind TM

Oscar Wilde said, "People who don't judge a book by its cover are superficial."

Statistics show that men pay more attention to women's present when choosing women, while women choose men more for the future, even for the reproduction of high-quality offspring. In this way, we can understand why many higher animals are male and have higher face value than females. For example, male lions are more powerful, and male peacocks have more gorgeous feathers-females are all visual animals. How can they get sister paper without a glamorous appearance? How can we continue the gene?

Unfortunately, the reality is that many men in China don't pay attention to image and think that dressing up is a woman's business. Many younger brothers didn't rush to buy suits until they graduated from college and looked for jobs. Even the secret master heard that a university dormitory bought a suit together. Are you all the same height and weight? Same skin color and body shape? How can a man who has not been tempered by a suit have elegant manners and gentlemanly manners? Some surveys clearly show that a high-quality image can increase income by 20%, and talent and face value are the signs of successful men today.

The Secret Master and Wang Weizhong Rome, the founder of Ace, met at the World Buyers' Event in Naples. Rome is an international buyer with more than 65,438+050 Italian brands. What he does is not simply selling clothes. He carried out the image project of Mr. China, which is a good thing for self-interest and others. Fashion The Secret Behind? Wang Weizhong Rome, the founder of Ace, was invited to give a lecture on "Gentleman's Cultivation Methodology" in the series of activities of the industrial empowerment project "World Trade Center Lecture Hall X Secret Lesson 5" to help students take a decent first step.

Where does the first step of a decent gentleman begin? The first set of clothes in life, should I choose ready-made clothes or customize them? The warm-up tweet of this secret class was warmly welcomed as soon as it was released, and 30 seats were almost exhausted. The secret master intends to tilt the quota to many young people, many of whom are college students who have just got the admission notice. They have been taught since childhood to study hard and get good grades, and they have little idea about dress code and dress etiquette. The secret master and Mr. Ace talked about this situation when they met in Milan in July. Many men not only stay away from fashion, but even fail to reach basic etiquette. It is really necessary to start classes, and image management also needs literacy. It's time to set up a decent man image for boys before entering the university and open the door to the evolution of gentlemen!

1

Returning to the classics is the most practical way to wear it.

I shouted "Wolf" many times all summer. /kloc-in August of 0/7, the typhoon really landed in the underworld. The Secret Master was very worried about the attendance, but the enthusiastic and studious students all showed up at the Fashion The Secret Behind Shanghai Fashion Experience Center in the Fashion Design Valley on the sixth floor of Shanghai World Trade Center on time, without wasting the careful planning and preparation of the Secret Master.

From the very beginning, Rome throws out the ultimate question of image-building: what is appropriate? He believes: "inappropriate clothes may ruin opportunities or life."

So how to choose between personal preference and occasion object? His answer is straightforward and easy to remember, just following a principle: "Shall we go first? I ",and the most error-free way is to" return to nature ".

What kind of clothes can be called "classic"? Knock on the blackboard!

You made the right choice? Five items, a pair of leather shoes, a tie, a suit, a shirt and a pair of trousers, the image of a decent gentleman is handy.

Look at its shoes? Know this man.

"For a gentleman, shoes are the most important." Wang Weizhong believes that "elegance begins with the first step when you know a person by his shoes. Instead of spending a lot of money on clothes, it is better to choose a pair of high-quality leather shoes. " With 2+ 1 pair of classic leather shoes, the shoes can get a full rest. The two basic shoes of a gentleman are Oxford shoes and Derby shoes, and that+1 is a monk shoe. Most of the remaining shoes are derived from these. The characters behind the classic leather shoes are also quite interesting. For example, the most suitable shoes for walking weigh 500~550g/ piece; Classic leather shoes generally have 5 pairs of eyelets, and the length of shoelaces is between 75 and 80 cm. A pair of leather shoes can't be worn for two days in a row, but they have to stand for 24 hours; There are shoe braces and shoehorns. Take off your shoes at home after a busy day. No matter how tired you are, you should put the shoe brace in conveniently. ...

A tie is not an ornament, it embodies taste and knowledge.

Don't underestimate a small tie, it's very knowledgeable. A classic tie is 146~ 148cm long and 7~9cm wide. The tip of your tie should be right under the belt buckle. Tall people are advised to buy long ties, especially those who like to wear half or the whole of windsor knot. When you take it off, you should roll it up and put it away, and do important care regularly to ensure its full edge.

Don't be afraid to choose colorful ties in the market. The first tie Rome taught you to choose should be 100% silk and navy blue polka dots, because polka dots are the earliest recognized artistic patterns and the most classic.

From formal to casual, the order of ties is: plain color, dark color, dot, stripe and print.

So how do you judge whether a tie is of high quality? It's not the brand, just the following three points.

1, look at the top of the chunk first. There is a triangular part at the back. Fold it back, just to cover it. The more sewing, the better handwork.

2. Confirm the elasticity of the tie. Lay the tie flat on a flat surface, with one hand on the wide end and the other hand on the tie, and then stretch it to both sides. At this time, the tie will stretch slightly, and it will return to its original state after you let go.

3. Look at the cutting style. Yes, ties, like clothes, pay attention to tailoring. A good tie is usually cut diagonally, which means that the fabric of the tie will be cut at a 45-degree angle. In order to determine whether the tie is cut diagonally, you can grab the narrow end of the tie and lift it or hang it on your arm. If the ties are twisted together, you can be sure that they are not cut diagonally.

At this point, Roma concluded: with high-quality classic leather shoes and ties, a high-grade suit is good, even if it is ordinary, it will show outstanding temperament and image. On the other hand, this is wrong. Leather shoes and ties are of average quality. Even if you put on personal tailor's high-class suit, you will look ragged and have a bad temperament. In other words, an ordinary suit of 3000 yuan, with a pair of Italian shoes and a tie, looks like a suit worth 1 10,000 yuan. Conversely, 30,000 yuan for a set means a lot? Suits in the south are full of ordinary ties and rotten leather shoes, which are completely ruined. Because of cheap leather shoes and ties, the value of high-end suits cannot be fully reflected.

A good white shirt is better than a dozen clothes with strange styles.

If you need to work, you need to wear a shirt from Monday to Friday. How many shirts do you need to buy at least one year to look like a gentleman, and you wear different clothes every day? ? The answer is ... five!

They are: white cotton shirts, light blue cotton shirts, white cotton shirts with blue stripes, blue cotton shirts with white stripes and striped shirts of different colors.

The data and details behind the classic shirts are also interesting. The material should be 120/2 or above pure cotton. Pin 1cm7 or above, which is dense enough; The collar width is 7~7.5cm and the collar height is 4 ~ 4.5 cm. Cuff 7cm, just one button; It's longer than a casual shirt. ...

Why do the first and last buttons open horizontally and the other buttons open vertically? That's 2 horizontal and 5 vertical? Haha, the secret owner sells small links. This question is left to everyone to answer. You can leave a message backstage, and the prize is the ticket for Shanghai Design Week.

"People with taste wear suits."

Cai Lan said in "I decided to lead an interesting life": "People with taste wear suits." Rome deeply agrees with this. He goes in and out of various exhibitions in Europe all the year round. He pointed out that the three major producing areas of suits are Britain, France and Italy, which means it is right to choose suits from these three countries. A classic Italian suit contains two elements: dark blue and three buttons (actually two and a half buttons), while three timeless uniforms are thin straight single-breasted suits in navy, gray and charcoal gray.

Some people may ask, why do adults prefer classic suits in the formal social and business world? It's very simple, because the classic suit is the most comfortable social costume in the adult world, and the natural material is the most comfortable and the tailoring is the most comfortable. ...

He believes that when choosing a suit, seven places must be checked:

1. Shoulder: It's just the right size and can't be modified (be careful if someone tells you that you can change your shoulder).

2. Sleeve length: measured from the thumb upwards, 10~ 1 1cm.

3, length: basically covering the buttocks.

4, sleeve cage: can not be enlarged.

5, placket buttons: 3.

6, cuff links: 4 (dripping)

7. Chest bag: ship type.

The key role that can not be ignored: formal stockings

Almost heartbroken Roma said: "The worst match in the world is a classic suit, but wearing a pair of white socks." He believes that the five events are important, but the strength of a pair of small socks can not be ignored. If you are elegant in other respects but wear a pair of white socks, all your efforts will be in vain.

? What kind of socks should I choose for formal wear?

Of course, the color is black and navy blue, the length is 38cm or 45cm, and the material is wool or silk.

2

Let's talk.

Why are men in China either greasy or sissy?

Secret Master: Compared with women in China, men in China seem to pay less attention to their own image, or think that paying attention to image will appear superficial. what do you think?

Wang Weizhong: It's not fair to men! Everyone has a love of beauty. The men in China don't dress well, which is of course related to the lack of aesthetic education. However, Italian and Japanese men are not necessarily much better than China men, but they just dress well. Because their entire supply chain has a bottom line, it is important that they will not push strange products to consumers. Men in China always need to take care of their children and their wives. They are under pressure and have no time to pretend to be beautiful. In fact, the pleasure of dressing up well and establishing a good image can be alleviated, and it can also be experienced by yourself. Many of our guests sometimes exclaim "It's so comfortable" when buying our clothes. They are not children, but uncles in their forties and fifties, and some are government officials. Why are they screaming? Explain how uncomfortable they used to wear it! Good formal attire, fabric structure and even proportional relationship have a very in-depth study of patterns. These clothes are practical, not fancy, just in place.

Secret owner: I heard you say: "Looking at European countries such as Italy, many minority brands have a big feature that they are slow." I know you also admire this "slow fashion". Contrary to fast fashion, what do you think?

Wang Weizhong: Those tasteful European minority brands are only updated twice a year. No matter how the market changes, it has its own principles and rhythms, and the requirements for quality are extremely high. This "slowness" can precipitate technology and aesthetics into a fashion. And some fast fashion products will be updated in two weeks, can you make the burden on the earth less heavy? People who buy these products can wear them for a long time. You see, I wear clothes for three or five years and leather shoes for ten or twenty years. Actually, I don't have many clothes, but I am very stylish and brilliant.

Student: I have all the basic models. I think there are some bright patterns in black, navy blue and gray. Do you have any suggestions about collocation?

Wang Weizhong: The Japanese tea ceremony is divided into three stages: keeping, breaking and leaving. Today, we discussed the most basic defense. In order to enter the "break", you can use some props and master them skillfully before you can enter the third stage of "separation". I have a guest who likes to wear colorful pants and then echo other accessories. But he still wears a dark flannel suit on formal occasions, which should be planned according to his occupation, preferences, environment and other aspects.

three

A classic gentleman grows up.

This time, the secret master was delighted to see that many students had made an appointment for the on-site image transformation. Some are wearing suits for the first time, and they are dressed for sports and leisure as soon as they come in. The exhibition after the transformation of Mr. Ace's team image is really surprising. Let's wash our eyes with a wave of pictures-

In addition to the small prize of Master Wei Mi, I would also like to thank Franco Bassi, an Italian classic handmade silk tie provided by Teacher Ai Si, and a set of family photos worth 1000 yuan provided by portrait photographer CiCi for students trying on clothes.

four

A little emotion from the secret Lord

Some people say that men are like steaks, filet mignon is tender, full of fragrance to the naked eye, and brisket is the most chewy, but only by proper cooking can they show their characteristics to the maximum extent-wearing textured clothes, making ends meet, and what they wear is what they are!

Gu Zhaolong Xu Tianjun Cai Guanting Xu?

Where is Yan? Hu Yongqin? He Jinlong Xue Lei Zhu Jie Qu Wei?

Hu Jiwei? Xu He should play the flute.

Shi Jichen Xia Fang Wang Cheng? Lisa Deng Encheng Li Zong?

Yan hong? Zhang Wei? Liu Jianyong? Chang Jiuming? Qu Yijia? Li Xiaodan?

Thanks to Shanghai Yingdong Trading Co., Ltd. for its friendly support to capsule life.

Shanghai World Trade Center was put into operation on 1999, with a total construction area of 280,000 square meters. It consists of three main commercial parts: shopping center, Expo and tower. It is an influential international professional exhibition and trade center at home and abroad. At present, nearly 1,000 enterprises from more than 20 countries and regions have settled in the WTO, becoming a global trade professional service platform focusing on the fashion industry. Micro signal: shmart2299

Liu Peifang, founder of Fashion The Secret Behind, director of Shanghai Fashion Experience Center.

China Clothing Person of the Year

As a journalist, he has worked for 26 years and is a senior media division.

Focus on the fashion industry and value people and things.

Committed to becoming a content creator, resource integrator and industry promoter.

Fashion The Secret Behind Industry Empowerment Project Shanghai Experience Center

Address: Floor 42, Floor 6, World Trade Center, No.2299 Yan 'an West Road.

Tel: 02 1-62373739

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