Teach you long exposure and create a perfect sunset.

Lead: If you ask a landscape photographer his favorite shooting time, I believe he will tell you that early morning and dusk are his favorite shooting time. I hope that through the skill introduction of this article, you can know how to use this time to shoot your ideal scenery blockbuster.

Teach you long exposure to create a perfect sunset? The setting sun is infinitely beautiful, buried by the coming night? This sentence is a bit sad for the Spring and Autumn Period, but what about the first half? To see the sun, even though he is glorious? But it tells an indisputable fact. This is why so many photographers like to shoot sunset and dusk scenes. There is also a special name in English for this period of time, that is, at sunrise or sunset, the contrast between cold and warm is very strong. So if you can record the beauty of this time, it will definitely add a lot of color to your photos.

Before shooting

? The early stage is not enough for the later stage? I can't agree with this sentence at all You know, rigorous shooting is the premise of getting perfect photos. If you just want to add luster to the photos through the later period, it really goes against the original intention of photography. In order to take such a landscape photo, several accessories are essential. Let me explain it slowly.

Reasonable control of light ratio and exposure time

There are many methods to control light ratio and exposure time, and black card shaking is one of them. However, due to the complexity of technology, there is a simpler and easier way to master, that is, using filters. When cameras enter the digital age, many people ignore the role of filters. Although some filters can achieve the same effect through post-adjustment, using filters can obviously make you get more intuitive and better picture quality in the early shooting. Specifically, when taking this photo, two kinds of filters are mainly used, one is GND medium gray gradient mirror, and the other is ND medium gray mirror. The sensitivity of the camera is far less than that of the human eye. The function of GND is to darken the bright part of the photo and get more details than the highlight part of the scene. The function of neodymium mirror is to prolong the exposure time and make the clouds flow. There are many ways to extend the exposure time. Narrowing the aperture and reducing the sensitivity can achieve the same effect, but the aperture is too small, which will affect the image quality. Secondly, the sensitivity of the camera has a minimum value, which cannot be reduced indefinitely. Therefore, the use of subtracter can avoid the above two disadvantages. In the choice of metering mode, due to the wide shooting scene, it is suggested to use global metering or central key average metering, which can take into account both highlights and dark parts. I used GND and ND8 filters for this photo, and the specific shooting parameters are: 30SF13; ISO50 .

Use various methods to stabilize the camera.

When it comes to stabilizing the camera, a tripod is an indispensable tool, so in order to take satisfactory scenery photos, especially when the exposure time is long, it is best to carry a tripod with you. Besides tripod, there are actually several ways to help you stabilize your camera. The first point is to use cable release. Don't underestimate the camera shake when you press the shutter. Using cable release can help you finish shooting without touching the camera, especially when the exposure time is 1-2s. If there is no cable release, you can also set the camera to self-timer mode, which can also ensure that you will not have physical contact with the camera when it triggers the shutter. The second point is a little trick. If shooting with a SLR camera, please turn on the mirror pre-lift function. For large SLR cameras, when the reflector is lifted, it will cause machine vibration and jitter. Using the mirror pre-lifting function, the camera can lift the mirror before exposure to reduce this jitter. If your SLR camera doesn't have this function, turn on the 2s delayed selfie. In this case, most cameras will give priority to lifting the reflector and wait for shooting, which can achieve the same goal.

post processing

I believe that through the preliminary preparation, you must have made a satisfactory work. Let's add luster to your photos through several later adjustments. The later software we use here is Lightroom, because it is easier to use and faster to adjust than photoshop.

First, import the raw files of the photos you have taken, and really take raw photos, because the space and fault tolerance rate will be higher in the later period. Will you see one after importing? Shame? Our photos are completely different from those on the camera display, because raw photos usually only retain the most original information, so we need to adjust ourselves to look real.

Don't adjust that pile of parameters yet. Why don't you pull down the slider and find it? Lens correction? Column, as I said just now, the solved raw file only contains the most original information, so we need to find the lens you used to take pictures through this option and check it when you finish taking the camera? Internal correction? This step. If you are still not satisfied, you can adjust yourself by manual mode.

Next, we will enter the real later stage. Many friends have told me that there is no idea in the later stage of the photo, and it is often adjusted for a long time. Finally, look good before outputting. In fact, this late idea can be obtained by observing the photos. Judging from this photo, because it is a long exposure at sunset, the whole picture will be underexposed and will be improved later (if the sunrise is taken, the steps are the opposite); In addition, the highlights should be pulled back to keep more details of the clouds; Instead, adjust the shadows and color levels to make a slight contrast. Therefore, according to the above conclusions, I adjusted the photos. It should be pointed out that the later period is as uncertain as the earlier period, and the specific value has no more reference significance. Everyone needs to adjust according to their own actual situation.

Maybe the photo doesn't look much better through the above adjustment, so now it's time to do magic. We passed, right? Clarity? 、? Brightness? 、? Saturation? The adjustment basically achieves the effect of the final photo. The adjustment of clarity is mainly to make details such as clouds more obvious, while brightness and saturation are just as the name implies. Because I did my homework in the early stage and didn't modify the light ratio in a large area in the later stage, it is really important to shoot in the early stage. After the above adjustments, the later period basically ended. Now I can output photos to share with you.