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Let me provide you with some reference materials - the cultural connotation of Chaozhou cuisine (1) Comply with the natural order. In the dietary life of Chaoshan people, we often come into contact with the two terms "at that time" and "in due season". a concept. The aquatic products of the time and the vegetables and fruits of the time were always considered to be the most delicious and acceptable. Generally, restaurants and restaurants always advertise "seasonal dishes", "seasonal dishes" and "seasonal freshness" to attract customers. What is "at that time"? "At that time" means following the timing. For example, lobsters and yellow shrimps are abundant from late spring to summer, and it is most suitable to eat these two types of shrimps at this time; from autumn to winter, it is the time to eat sand shrimps. Another example is that you should eat bamboo shoots in May and June. After August, you can only "eat bamboo poles". This not only accumulates the long-term dietary practical experience of Chaoshan people, but also accumulates the ancient Chinese wisdom of "the unity of nature and man". What is "Yingjie"? "Yingjie" refers to foods that must be eaten in accordance with the seasonal order of the year. For example, it is a common custom in Chaoshan to eat rat cakes during the Chinese New Year. Shuqu, also known as Huanghua Quku, is a plant in the Asteraceae family. It has small, slightly round leaves and alternate leaves. There are white hairs on the leaves, and the flowers are yellow and wheat-colored. This is a wild vegetable with a mild nature and sweet taste. Rat cake is a kind of food made from rat grass mixed with glutinous rice flour and then wrapped with sweet filling. Why do we have to eat it during the Chinese New Year? Liang Dynasty Zongmao's "Jingchu Age Chronicles" said: "On that day (referring to the third day of the third lunar month, because of the climate, the growth of rattles in Jingchu is later than that of Chaoshan), take the juice of rattles and make a soup with honey and powder. , called dragon tongue (+half next to the word rice), because it is tired of the time and energy." This record shows that this food custom originated very early and has a wide coverage. It also shows that eating rat songs is to "weary the time". "Yan" means suppressing evil spirits. "Time-weary Qi" means driving away evil spirits and ushering in blessings during the New Year, combining food with benefits and avoidance of harm, and at the same time, combining food and drink. Another example is that on the seventh day of the first lunar month, Chaoshan people eat "seven kinds of soup", which is a bowl of seven kinds of seasonal vegetables. This custom also originated earlier. It is recorded in "Jingchu Suishiji", and it also has the meaning of celebrating the new year and rejuvenation. There are always some "festival" foods during festivals in our country, such as drinking Tusu wine on the first day of the first lunar month, eating glutinous rice balls during the Lantern Festival, eating rice dumplings on the Dragon Boat Festival, eating mooncakes on the Mid-Autumn Festival, eating Double Ninth Cake on September 9th, etc. Some are slightly more popular in Chaoshan. Changes, some remain unchanged. Later generations added some imagination and attachment to these festival foods based on various legends, but fundamentally, they are still just a response to people's dietary changes in time. (2) Maintain the authenticity of nature. Human beings must adapt to nature in their lives, otherwise it will be detrimental to human beings. However, in order to live a better life, humans have to carry out certain transformation and processing of nature, such as converting land into fields and clearing forests. Building roads, building ponds to store fish, sowing soil and growing grain, etc. Diet is also a kind of processing of nature by humans. A good beast, you have to "break bamboo, renew bamboo, fly earth, chase meat". After hunting the beast, you have to split it and eat it, cook it and eat it. This is not the processing of nature! But there is a principle here, that is, there should be no indiscriminate felling or indiscriminate hunting. Destroying nature beyond the reasonable needs of human beings is what the ancients called "a waste of natural resources" and will also be ruthlessly punished by nature. Chaozhou cuisine is a kind of delicacy, which means a more refined processing of nature, but during the fine processing, we try to maintain the authenticity of nature in terms of shape, color, taste and aroma of the dishes. This is obviously derived from ancient times. The idea of ??unity between man and nature. For example, the shape of the dish. In the Chaoshan banquet, lobster, whole chicken, and whole fish are served. Although they are all carefully cooked, the lobster, chicken, and fish must still be placed on the plate in their original shapes. The head, feet, and tail are all indispensable. On the one hand, the purpose of doing this is to show that you take care of yourself and treat guests wholeheartedly. On the other hand, it also has the deep meaning of showing nature, returning to nature, and thanking nature for its gifts. There are also some simulated snacks in Chaozhou cuisine, such as using ginger and potato puree to make bergamots, longevity peaches and other shapes in birthday banquets. They also imitate nature, showing that our food comes from nature and originates from nature. People and nature are inseparable and connected as one. The ginger-potato goldfish and colorful rabbit made by Shantou Longhu Hotel are so vivid and lifelike that the camera can't stop taking pictures as soon as they are on the table. This is an example. For example, what Chaozhou cuisine pursues in color is not colorful, but bright. Brightness is the color of life, the primary color of nature. When Chaoshan people fry vegetables, they pay special attention to "heating the pot with thick oil". Only by frying hot and fast in this way can the vegetables stay green and make people happy to get close to them. Lin Yutang said that when Westerners eat vegetables, they either make them into "salads" and eat them raw, or they cook them until they are very rotten and sticky. It can also be seen from here that the two have different cultural backgrounds. Another example is the aroma and taste of the dishes. Earlier we mentioned that Teochew cuisine pays most attention to the original flavor of the food. Now let’s take eating snake as an example. Chaoshan belonged to Yue in ancient times, and the ancestors once regarded snakes as totems. Therefore, the custom of worshiping snakes is still left in some places, and the practice of eating snakes is not popular. In recent decades, probably due to the influence of Guangzhou and the fact that snake meat has the functions of dispelling wind and activating blood circulation, removing diseases and dampness, and replenishing the body and replenishing qi, eating snakes has become increasingly popular in Chaoshan. The same goes for eating snakes. In Guangzhou, it is "when the autumn wind blows, eat snake soup". In Chaoshan, in most cases, snake bones are still used to make soup and the snake meat is sliced ??and eaten "raw (fire + feet)". By comparison, it is obvious that the Chaoshan method of eating snakes is more "close to nature". (3) Feel the taste of nature. The food customs of Chaoshan people are full of natural taste in many aspects, especially in the popular diet and popular culture.

For example, there is a snack in Puning called fried tofu, which is made from soy milk and potato starch in a certain ratio. It is fried and eaten immediately. It is dipped in leeks, salt water, or sometimes brown sugar. It is very delicious. The key to eating fried tofu is "hot", and it is best to eat it while squatting at a stall near the oil pan. Even in the coldest month of winter, it can make people sweat. Chaozhou people have a poem about bamboo branches that says: "The crispy skin and tender meat are hot, and the cold weather lasts for nine days. The rich eat skillfully and the poor eat well, and each of them appreciates the love of his hometown." He also said: "There is a stall at the intersection in front of the village, and the oil is hot in the oven and fried dried beans. The spicy sauce makes the head sweat in the cold weather, and the taste does not matter whether it is for the people or the officials." In other words, at least in terms of eating fried tofu, the poor and the rich, the people and the officials are completely equal for the time being. Obviously, this kind of food custom is closer to nature and closer to human nature. Strangely enough, some people have introduced this famous snack to Chaozhou banquets, but no matter how you follow it or improve it, it always feels less palatable and less attractive. Because what it loses is nothing else, but that crucial casual natural flavor.