Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - The design field of jewelry art design
The design field of jewelry art design
One of the elements of jewelry art design is creative ability and art skills. The two can promote each other. In addition to creative ability and art skills, it also includes the jewelry designer's thinking and organizational ability about the properties and structure of jewelry materials, and the construction ability of visual space. Accurately positioning the object of jewelry art design and taking it as the starting point of design is another important factor in jewelry design. Jewelry design should emphasize the perfection of realistic beauty and pursue the beauty of aesthetics. Since aesthetic psychology has With the changes in the development of social culture and lifestyle, jewelry design must also be constantly innovated to keep up with the needs of the times.
In fact, as long as it involves the field of art, you will face the choice between formalism and functionalism. If anyone engaged in design work simply pursues formalism or functionalism, they may enter a dead end in their design career. , it is difficult to achieve further development. The basic principle of jewelry commercial design is that it is beautiful, practical and economical, and is oriented to pursue and guide fashion trends and pursue profits; the principle of jewelry art design is that it is beautiful and unique, with less consideration for the practicality and economy of design solutions, and is oriented to guide fashion trends and satisfy satisfaction. Different needs of a few specific objects, etc. The focus of jewelry art design lies in the use of expression techniques. Its design constraints are relatively simple, which makes the selection of expression methods more flexible and free. Its content mainly includes the material structure, shape, color, decoration, composition and pattern composition of the jewelry design object. These contents come from the designer's personal experience or occasional inspiration and often have a strong personal touch.
Jewelry design has different applications in the art field and the commercial field. As a branch of art design, jewelry art design is somewhat different from jewelry commercial design.
It must be clear that jewelry manufacturing can never be completely replaced by mechanical manufacturing because its manufacturing process involves exquisite and complex manual skills and individuality. Due to the beauty of simplicity, the diversification of vision makes modern people advocate individuality. Generally speaking, most people like simple, refined and perfect styles, which change with fashion trends and seasons and have become common elements in jewelry design. Exquisite structural processing and material use, geometric techniques and rational design fully demonstrate the modern style, allowing creativity and production technology to be fully expressed. Diamonds and precious metals can be perfectly used in jewelry design. The streamlined shape and simple shape composition reflect the nobility and exquisiteness of diamond jewelry; the clear, tough outline and the solidity of precious metal create a concise style of futuristic jewelry design and demonstrate its agility. Transparent and clean diamonds and solid precious metals repeatedly embody the concept of purity and purity, making them even more transcendent. Taking advantage of human visual differences and the so-called contradictions in vision, in two-dimensional composition, people feel that the graphics area is larger or smaller than the actual graphics area; in three-dimensional composition, the actual volume of graphics with the same volume may feel different; In the color composition, the color tendency is more obvious and prominent. The above design rules, through the actual use of precious metals and diamond materials, due to the brightness of platinum, increase the metal reflection on the side or inner surface (diamond base) through the refraction of light, giving people a greater illusion. Therefore, two pieces of diamond jewelry with different styles, although the weight and cut of the diamonds are the same, have obvious differences in the size of the diamonds due to different psychological factors.
From flat to three-dimensional shapes
Since the precious metal materials of diamond jewelry such as K gold, gold, platinum, etc. are relatively expensive, it is impossible for us to create a physical space like outdoor sculptures. Flatten into thin sheets or hollow out the back to reduce weight. For example, metal sheets can be bent, twisted, enclosed, welded, etc. to form an empty form (solid space or virtual space) with staggered heights and virtual and real transformations, or it can also be composed of entities themselves. Metal sheets are welded into circles, cubes, cones, and relief effects created by chiseling, which can be incorporated into diamond jewelry design elements. Jewelry art design has made great progress, showing colorful and different styles, and strives to find natural, simple and innocent media in the colorful world, in order to achieve an artistic state of returning to simplicity and expressing an eternal beauty. Jewelry art designers integrate personal emotional changes into their works, which undoubtedly brings the artist closer to the jewelry wearer, making the material beauty, craftsmanship beauty and artistic beauty of crystal highly harmonious and unified.
Artistically speaking, artistic beauty is the "soul" of the aesthetic characteristics of modern art jewelry. It is a kind of comprehensive beauty. It is an artist who, under the guidance of aesthetic goals, aesthetic ideals and aesthetic practice requirements, highly unifies the spatial shape, color matching, material combination, craft production, functional use and spiritual connotation of jewelry in terms of aesthetic rules. Its aesthetic center is ——"Spiritual Beauty". Cultural connotation and spiritual realm are also one of the signs that distinguish art jewelry from other types of jewelry. Measuring the value of a piece of art jewelry does not depend on the weight of the metal and gemstones, but on its inherent artistic taste, unique artistic shape, and new value concepts it conveys. From this point of view, art jewelry can even break away from its traditional meaning, as an independent work of art for appreciation.
This kind of artistic beauty comes from the beauty of reality, but is higher than the beauty of reality. Its purpose is not to persuade, but to infect. Crystal jewelry needs to create original crystal art jewelry with cultural personality on the basis of inheriting the tradition of jade.
The traditional and classical elements are right in front of us. They can be plant patterns; human figures; they can also be the clean, smooth and simple lines of Ming-style furniture; the geometric grid shapes of the windows of ancient houses; and even the prominent architectural structures of the Tang Dynasty. For decorative techniques, we must fully understand these "classics" that can be used for reference. At the same time, we must have the concept of modern digitalization in our minds, and use a dialectical approach to combine curly grass patterns with nano-geometric circles, or use crystal Inlaid on a large roof-shaped headdress, this is indeed a modern decoration.
In terms of design, jewelry art design is different from commercial jewelry design. The former is based on high concentration of thinking, sublimation and combination into commemorative or symbolic jewelry; the latter is jewelry developed and designed with the purpose of making profits to cater to the consumer market. Crystal art jewelry design is currently the most common in China, with engraved jewelry being the most common. Designers have created a large number of works with auspicious meanings by inheriting ancient patterns and cultures. Common ones include "bat in the eye of money" and "dragon and phoenix presenting auspiciousness" Crystal jewelry such as pendants, ring faces, and hand ornaments carved from other themes, but most of these are jewelry designed with "wraps" inside or using "smart colors." For transparent and pure crystals, especially the most unique yellow and purple colors in crystals, the crystals are often polished into various geometric shapes with facets, so that the "gloss" and "brilliance" of the crystals are more brilliant, with K Gold inlays are made into jewelry.
Commercial jewelry design most often adopts this form, but there are still art jewelry. Designers will design "sun" and "harvest" according to the characteristics of the dazzling golden crystal. Works with themes such as "Golden Autumn". In the design of inlaid jewelry, crystals with a wrapper inside or non-transparent and pure crystals are most commonly used to learn from the jewelry designs of other jewelry and undergo secondary transformation. Or use "edging" or "melon seed buckle" to make simple jewelry. The purpose is to reflect the "style" inside the crystal. In terms of the current development of artistic crystal jewelry, it can not only show the modern concept of shape, but also highlight the jewelry tradition. The charming design is currently the most artistically valuable design. From the perspective of jewelry audiences, they often prefer the "classic" and "traditional" aspects of jewelry. For example, you can use classical patterns as decorative textures on the surface of jewelry with abstract and minimalist shapes to create an atmosphere of blending ancient and modern, or you can use simple crystal patterns on the surface of jewelry. Precious diamonds, rubies, sapphires, etc. are inlaid on the original stones to create a difference in feeling and vision. The application of composition in design
Constitution is a modern modeling concept, which studies the shaping of form. The concept of "form" here includes the two-dimensional "picture" and the three-dimensional "form-body". Therefore, the study of form in composition studies has two aspects: plane graphics and three-dimensional form. At the same time, in order to make the form more eye-catching, we also need to study the color that plays an important role in the visual effect. So graphics, form and color constitute the three main aspects of compositional research. Structural science actually includes three components: "plane", "three-dimensional" and "color".
Planar composition is a specialized study of plane modeling issues. It starts from the study of the elements that constitute plane graphics and pictures, and through the analysis of plane modeling elements and repeated composition experiments, studies the general rules of the composition of graphics and pictures, and improves the ability of plane modeling. Three-dimensional composition is to extract the constituent elements from various three-dimensional shapes for analysis. From the texture processing of the body to the construction of the three-dimensional form, from the shaping of a single body to the spatial combination of forms, corresponding analysis and research on issues such as materials, tools and techniques have been conducted. Gradually construct three-dimensional forms from flat materials
to improve the ability to perceive three-dimensional space, cognitive abilities and creative thinking abilities.
Color composition is the study of color rules. Its main content is to study the phenomenon and essence of color, color expression, color perception, color matching, color composition rules, etc. Therefore, composition studies study things such as shape-shaping materials (because in the modeling process, whether it is two-dimensional modeling, three-dimensional modeling or color processing, there must be the intervention of materials), the combination relationship of shapes, and the expression techniques of shapes. , color performance and other aspects. Jewelry design is mainly a process of creating three-dimensional shapes. Here is a brief introduction to the components of three-dimensional shapes (body, color and texture) and the application of composition forms in jewelry design.
The composition and method of a body
A body is the extension of points, lines, and surfaces in three-dimensional space. According to the way the body is composed, it is divided into different types: the body formed by line extension is called wire body, the body formed by surface extension is called surface body, and the new body obtained by the body's self-change is called block body.
Wire body: The wire is characterized by its length, which is light, tense, with a sense of extension and movement; in the process of forming a body with wires, the arrangement of the different positions of the wires can produce different effects. The group structure is present, thus forming different feelings such as interlacing, rhythm, layering and stretching.
Wires include hard wires. The methods of hard wire construction include frame structure, grid structure, single shape, etc. Monolithic modeling refers to fixing individual hard wires one by one and performing rotational deformation. The forms include emission, gradient, rotation, etc., and then are interlaced, overlapped and interspersed to form various shapes. The key points of modeling are to create a sense of order, rhythm, etc. through the accumulation of wires up and down and the continuous development of front, back, left, and right; and soft wires are two major categories. Soft wires can be constructed by stretching or tying.
Knots are designed using different knotting methods and can be widely used in some jewelry designs made of non-metal materials (silk, plastic, etc.). my country's traditional knitting art and some ethnic minority jewelry actually use this form of composition for artistic modeling. In modern jewelry crafts, metal materials are sometimes shaped using soft wires: such as gold wire woven necklaces, knotted shapes, etc.
Surface material body: Surface material body is composed of planes in two-dimensional space. The surface material itself has a sense of expansion, fullness and lightness, and it can be bent, folded, etc. to form a body. During the modeling process, please note that the surface material can be flat or curved, and the modeling forms include repetition, gradient, etc. Since jewelry is generally small in size, the number of basic surface materials used for styling should not be too large, so as not to appear messy and complicated and affect the visual effect.
Block body: a new body is obtained through deformation and recombination of basic blocks. There are three methods: deformation, shape cutting and shape combination. This is often used extensively in jewelry design, and jewelry modeling is an important means of design.
The application of color in design
Color refers to the surface color of materials used in modeling design, including natural color and artificially processed color. In the current jewelry design, precious metal materials express the true color of the material, while the surface color of jewelry made of K gold materials and other non-precious metal materials is often artificially processed to present various colors according to needs. In modern jewelry consumption, people pursue a kind of fashion, so the colors of jewelry are closely connected with fashion and are rich and colorful.
The reflection of texture in jewelry design
Texture refers to the surface effect of the work, that is, the surface texture. It includes the texture of the material itself and artificially created texture effects. The four creation methods include superposition, shaping, shaping (carving, corrosion, wrinkles, etc.) and weaving. Artificial surface texture treatment gives the metal surface a rustic feel. In jewelry design, the following methods are commonly used to create different textures on the jewelry surface.
Polishing: Use a polishing machine to polish the metal surface to make it smooth, bright and dazzling.
Sandblasting: After the jewelry is polished, a sandblasting machine is used to spray quartz sand on the surface of the jewelry at high speed under the action of high-pressure gas to form a matte effect, so that the surface of the jewelry is no longer dazzling and becomes delicate, hazy, and Soft glow.
Wire drawing: Use emery to perform directional movement on the surface of the jewelry, thereby forming fine metal stripes on the metal surface, giving it a silky luster. Selection of original design elements
Design is a creative process. It is the analysis, deformation, segmentation or combination of original design elements to obtain a shape that reflects the designer's ideas. This process consists of two steps: the selection of original design elements and the evolution from the original design elements to the final design shape. The design comes from life, and the original design elements come from the objects recorded (sketching) by the designer in the process of observing life, including people, animals, plants, architecture, art, etc. These objects contain rich culture, from history to modernity to the future, from China to the West. The designer's sketching of objects is different from ordinary art paintings. It focuses on the characteristics, structure and rules of things, rather than texture, light, shadow and color. For example, when observing the structure, you need to carefully observe the various parts of the object and the characteristics of the connection between the various parts. Observing the internal organizational form of objects, such as anatomical sketching, can also discover beautiful modeling elements, which will inspire design modeling. In addition, observation and shape selection from different angles can enhance the ability and approach to select design elements. The original design elements evolved through various forms to finally obtain the design shape. Generally speaking there are three main methods: deformation, shape combination and shape segmentation.
The application of deformation in jewelry design
Deformation can make the shape have a sense of life and human touch (Figures 26 and 27). The specific methods are:
1. Distortion makes the shape soft and dynamic
2. Expansion shows the resistance of internal force to external force, making it elastic and full of life
< p>3. Tilt makes the basic shape form a certain angle with the horizontal direction, showing a tilted surface, creating a sense of instability, and achieving the purpose of being lively4. The coiled basic shape changes in a specific direction. And present some kind of dynamic.
Application of shape combination in jewelry design Shape combination is also called the addition rule. It refers to the combination of two or more basic shapes into a new three-dimensional shape. There are many forms of combination, including symmetry, repetition, gradient, mutation, contrast, harmony, etc. The application of the law of addition allows a simple structural element to evolve into a complex, emotionally rich design.
The application of shape segmentation in jewelry design. Shape segmentation is also called the subtraction rule, which refers to the segmentation of basic shapes to form new shapes. The divided surface (line) can be a straight surface (line) or a curved surface (line); the cutting directions include horizontal, vertical, oblique and roundabout. The value of segmentation lies in understanding and changing the existing space to obtain the required spatial shape and beautiful visual effects.
Notes on design evolution
Design must reject mediocrity. As a designer, the most important thing to pay attention to is the spirit of innovation and the awareness of rejecting mediocrity.
It is necessary to avoid the homogeneity of jewelry theme styling elements.
Although the patterns and shapes that can be expressed in jewelry design are limited, this limitation is a test of the designer's ability to recreate and sublimate limited resources. At the same time, we must create new soulful things of our own on the premise of a deep understanding of social culture and popular psychology.
Avoid homogeneity of expression techniques. Drawing from the same sketching materials, the styling elements extracted for design are completely different. This requires training your own observation and evolution abilities. For example, if you observe the buds of an apple tree from different parts and angles, their shapes and structures are different. You can extract them according to your needs and skillfully use materials and colors to express them. Sometimes we just look for the laws of beauty in nature, such as the delicate and symmetrical beauty of peacock feathers, instead of directly using its shape as a styling element.
Analyze the design evolution process of good jewelry design works and summarize them to provide inspiration for your own design evolution. But don’t blindly imitate, be good at thinking from different perspectives, dare to break through conventions, and find new ways of expression.
The application of patterns in jewelry design
There are many kinds of patterns, including animal patterns, character patterns, floral patterns, decorative patterns, geometric patterns, etc. These patterns can be evolved into various designs.
To use these patterns skillfully, you must first have a good idea of ??these patterns. How to get these patterns? This can be achieved through observation and understanding of related fields in life (such as architecture, paper cutting, embroidery, wood carving, stone carving, brick carving, printing and dyeing, painting, etc.), through a large number of copying of various patterns, and a large number of sketches of natural forms. Skillful purpose.
Different patterns often contain different semantics. For example, dragons and phoenixes in animal patterns symbolize auspiciousness, peonies in flower patterns symbolize wealth, plum blossoms symbolize perseverance and tenacity, evergreen symbolizes eternity, and olive branches symbolize peace. Various auspicious cloud patterns, water ripples, wishful thinking patterns, etc. are typical decorative patterns, which appear in large numbers in architecture and other related artistic shapes, and have also been applied to jewelry patterns.
Geometric patterns are "shapes" composed of points, lines, and surfaces. Although they do not reflect specific things and meanings, their harmonious beauty gives people visual pleasure and is spiritually pleasing. Aesthetic effects, this harmony is manifested in many aspects, such as the golden section ratio of 1:1.618, which is called the golden section online, and is formed into a golden rectangle. During the European Renaissance, this ratio was used almost everywhere in buildings and handicrafts. Another example is the rhythmic beauty of tower-shaped geometric patterns. Geometric patterns are often evolved and simplified from representations. Jewelry art design has its origins in arts and crafts design. The needs of the objects have gradually differentiated. These two ways of jewelry design have produced many differences, such as design principles and positioning design procedures, design content and expression forms, etc. However, at the same time, they still maintain many characteristics and start from the perfection of art. Gradually improving and constantly learning from each other in the process of pursuing their own development will be the development direction of jewelry design in the future.
For those engaged in jewelry art design, it is important to clarify the commercial design of jewelry. Under the premise of distinguishing and connecting with jewelry art design, we should continue to learn the artistic composition methods and expression techniques in different fields, learn advanced design methods, and make them an important element to promote the continuous expansion of our own design methods, which will make the 21st century The level of jewelry design has made a fundamental leap, making high-level jewelry design an important driving force for the prosperity of the jewelry industry. Jewelry design requires designers to have high comprehensive qualities. China started late in this area and has very few professional talents. It is unanimously believed that the establishment of such an organization aims to cultivate more talents, improve the level of domestic jewelry design, and bring the Chinese jewelry market into a new era. The formation of jewelry art and design styles is based on different trends of the times and regional characteristics, through creative conception and creation. Expression has gradually developed into a representative form of jewelry art design. It is usually closely related to local human factors and natural conditions, and it also needs to have the characteristics of conception and shape in creation. and internal factors. Although style is expressed in form, style has profound connotations such as art, culture, and social development; from this deep meaning, style does not stop at or be equal to form.
Jewelry. The styles of art design can be mainly divided into: traditional style, modern style, and mixed style.
Traditional style
The traditional style of interior refers to the interior with historical and cultural characteristics. Style. Generally speaking, compared with modernism, it emphasizes the inheritance of historical culture and the continuation of humanistic characteristics. The traditional style is generally referred to as Chinese style, European style, Mediterranean style, etc. in different periods. The characteristics of each region are not exactly the same. For example, European style is also divided into: Gothic style, Baroque style, Classical style, French Baroque, British Baroque, etc.; Ming and Qing styles, Sui and Tang styles, Hui style, Western Sichuan style, etc. p>
Modern style
That is, modernist style.
Modern style originated from the Bauhaus school founded in 1919. It emphasizes breaking through old traditions and creating new buildings. It pays attention to function and spatial organization, pays attention to the formal beauty of the structure itself, has simple shapes, opposes redundant decoration, and advocates reasonable design. The composition process respects the performance of materials, pays attention to the texture and color configuration of the materials themselves, and develops non-traditional asymmetrical composition techniques based on functional layout. Pay attention to actual craft production operations and emphasize the connection between design and industrial production.
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