Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - Why does the old playwright Chaplin always wear that hat?
Why does the old playwright Chaplin always wear that hat?
Rostain said, "Compared with color photos, black-and-white photos have an abstract quality, which needs the viewer's own interpretation. Color increases the picturesqueness of photos, but sometimes it also hinders the pure and true information that photographers want to convey. "
This film tells the conflict between individual enterprises and the pursuit of happiness in the industrial age. The hands of the clock slowly pointed to six o'clock in the morning and the movie began.
A flock of sheep rushed in and cut in with the scene where the workers filed in.
A huge metaphor has emerged: workers are manipulated like these inanimate animals, bumping aimlessly like headless flies, but please look at the picture carefully. All the workers in the factory are wearing hats.
But no one in the whole play wears the same hat as Chaplin, which is also Chaplin's very clever shooting technique, that is, to make his own characteristics different so as to be remembered. And this top hat is not small. The exact name should be "bowler hat". In America, people also call it "Derby hat". It was also the most classic clothing accessory during the Great Depression.
Speaking of bowler hats, we should start from Britain in the middle of Victorian era19th century, when hats gradually became popular in London. Edward Coke, a nobleman at that time, hoped to have a strong hat to protect his head when he was outdoors or hunting. At that time, he found the most famous and oldest hat shop in London and made such a hat for it. The crown is made of oval hard material (it is not an exaggeration to say that it is a beautiful helmet), the brim of the hat is curled, and there will be ribbons at the joint.
After repeated tests by Edward Coke, he himself recognized the hat very much. Later, more people found that bowler hats were not only practical, but also popular with people, and soon spread to a wider crowd. This change made it run through the whole class system in Britain, because only people with social and economic status would wear hats in Britain at that time. Since the beginning of the 20th century, British railway workers have been wearing it to protect them from being affected at work.
Today, bowler hat is still one of the best-selling styles in Lock & Co stores, and the people who buy it still cherish and miss that era from the heart. It was probably the best Modern Times and the best silent film era.
The coke in Lockhart Town is about 3000 RMB.
When you mention it, don't you think of hats?
Think of at most one hat.
Every hat has its own name
Fedora is the first choice in the hat industry in the eyes of gentlemen. Whether you see an elegant gentleman wearing a gentleman's hat made of soft felt in an old movie or a noble gentleman wearing a well-made fedora in an old photo, the status and charm of the fedora have been enduring and endless.
Michael Jackson
Because the material of the hat is called Fedora, the hat made of it is also called fedora hat. Memories are often associated with the images of American old-school gentlemen, Chicago gangsters and private detectives.
Judelo
The original fedora evolved from a milliner's hat, and in the 1970s, it became the standard for grandfathers. In the golden age of Hollywood, Fedora was the standard for almost all classic movie actors. Michael Jackson, Jude Law and Johnny Depp are all followers of Fedora hat. A new generation of James Bay takes it as a distinctive personal symbol and never takes it off.
Depp
A typical Fedora hat is 1 1- 12 cm high, with a brim of about 3-4 cm and a symbolic "pinched" drop-shaped concave shape at the top. There are many changes in the style of Fedora, mainly in these three places: cone, brim and strap. We can choose men's hats with different taper and brim to match our face. Long face should choose a wide-brimmed hat; Round and square faces are suitable for narrow sides.
Because the overall style is American, in addition to being suitable for matching suits, American leisure can also be hold. In the collocation of single items, with windbreaker and woolen coat, the gas field suddenly increases, and the gas field of 2.8 meters is no longer a legend.
Trilby is a close relative of Fedora, also known as jazz hat. It's a British variant of the fedora. The coat is almost the same as the Fedora hat, except that the edge is narrower than it, and the back edge is often turned up when worn. Compared with the serious Fedora hat, it is more playful and lively. Trilby's narrow brim is more suitable for shallow wearing on the head, which has a very casual sunshine feeling. People with short face and small head are more suitable to wear.
James bond
Trilby comes from a literary work ending in 19. At that time, George, the writer of the satirical pictorial PUNCH in Corrupt Countries? Du? Moliere's novel Trebey was adapted into a drama, which tells the story of a musician named Svengali who hypnotized an unknown painting model into a famous singer. Trilby was worn by the protagonist in the play. As expected, it spread quickly. Even spread to the racetrack, until the end of 1920s, Trilby became the standard of racing clothes.
Among the varieties of fedora hats, there are not only the soft version of Trilby, but also the tough version of Homburg, the Chinese flower name-Hamburg hat. The biggest difference in appearance from Fedora hat is that the brim flies upwards, which looks domineering and domineering.
It is a kind of hard felt hat with concave top and upturned brim, which originated from German national costume in19th century. Traditional hats usually have ribbons on the edges and some small feathers on one side. At the beginning of the 20th century, it was introduced to England by King Edward VII, and immediately conquered the upper class in England. It became the standard for men such as bankers and politicians at that time.
In the1930-1940s, this tall felt hat became the standard dress of gangsters-the hat had no feathers, the edge was not covered with ribbons, and the upturned part was selectively pressed out. See look in The Godfather for details.
Al Pacino
Especially Al Pacino, the actor of the second generation godfather, the Humboldt retrospective on his head has become a sacred product for countless fans to avoid misfortune, and he pays tribute to it every day. Because his image is so deeply rooted in people's hearts, Humboldt even won the title of Lord's hat.
There is no doubt that this is a classic choice of traditional English gentlemen, because most of the materials are mainly tweed, and universal knowledge and tweed are the favorite of the British people.
Its history can be said to be the oldest in men's hats. Its origin can be traced back to14th century, and later it became a necessity for upper-class men to wear wool suits when they were on vacation in the countryside. Its bones are full of changeable temperament, which can give consideration to both handsome and elegant, and can also reflect retro and fashion at the same time.
Bloody gangster hat
The most traditional flat-top hat is usually made of houndstooth plaid and twisted grey cloth. Although classic, it is easy to appear old, outdated and heavy. You may wish to choose a light and thin style, plain cotton texture, and wear it more naturally.
Another feature of this kind of hat is that it can make people look a little playful when worn askew, and it has a strong yuppie flavor. A flat hat is more suitable for people with long faces, and a slightly wider brim will make up for the problem of long faces.
In terms of collocation, flap cap's British temperament is too strong. Therefore, this suit with English old-school tweed fabric is a perfect match.
Flat top hat, English name: pork pie. Seriously, it is really named because it is shaped like a pork pie.
Pork pie
Although the name is a little cute, the flat top of the hat and the brim around it like a planetary halo have a strong British gentleman flavor. This hat is said to have originated from the American imperialists during the Civil War, when it was an American military cap. This kind of hat is often associated with jazz and blues culture. At that time, a famous saxophone song by Sir King Lester Young was called Goodbye Pork Pie Hat.
Lester Young "Goodbye Pork Pie Hat"
In the 1960 s, a wave of rude boys appeared in Jamaica, and this kind of hat is an indispensable costume. At that time, ska singers in Jamaica (especially rock steady became the most popular music form) Laurel Aitken had a song called "Give me back my pork pie hat". It didn't take long for the rude boy wind to cross the ocean, and it began to affect the British MOD generation, including the rude boy's favorite pork pie hat. However, Jamaicans and Britons have shorter brim than Americans.
As we all know, this kind of hat does not come from a man, but from a young girl, the heroine of the movie "Lover", jane march. That kind of self-conscious and noble, lonely and confused arrogance is first shown through her skirt and hat.
The movie "lover"
Porkpie is more suitable for long and angular faces or square faces, and the rounded crown will bring a touch of softness to your face.
In addition to being circled by countless ghost teachers who have been sucking powder recently, Ghost Edge has also successfully brought goods for fishermen's hats. In the stereotype, fisherman's hat will give people a simple, Japanese and immortal temperament. But through the personal demonstration of the ghost side, we also saw the casualness, laziness and even coolness of the fisherman's hat.
Ghost bian
The origin of fisherman's hat is not the neon that speaks for it, but with the hip-hop culture at that time and the wearing of many pop stars and rappers, it has become popular since the 1980s and 1990s.
LL Cool J
Fisherman's hats are also popular in international fashion week. Burberry Prorsum 20 15 S/S improved the fisherman's hat earlier, widened the brim, and chose protein almond biscuit blue with high saturation. It seems to tell people that fisherman's hats can also be fashionable.
Backstage Burberry Prorsum Men's Wear
In collocation, the sparks generated by the mix of fisherman's hat and formal dress are also quite intriguing. In addition, it can be perfectly integrated with fisherman's hat and "Xiannan" cotton and linen cloth, and can also be well matched with tooling. Can be said to be a very versatile hat.
Nowadays, it is an essential prop for young literary women to travel and take photos. Its hard corners are more suitable for women's soft faces and long hair. It is not easy to control a boatman.
What impresses everyone most is that the two protagonists in Gatsby are dressed in this way. Short face and square face are not suitable for wearing this kind of hat. If you insist on wearing it, you can choose to lift the brim or wear it obliquely to make the whole look less short.
Leonardo DiCaprio
Tobey Vincent Maguire
In the collocation of light-colored suit and leisure holiday style, Boater can play a icing on the cake, especially beach holiday style, Hawaiian shirt, shorts, sunglasses and a Boater. The complete holiday style look is easy to be concave.
As a media with connotation and texture, we are definitely not limited to the type of popular science hat. After summarizing the types of hats, let's look at other knowledge of hats.
There are many silk linings for high-grade hats, most of which are sewn by hand, while the middle and low-grade linings are glued or sewn mechanically by sewing machines, and their fixity and durability are far from those of manual sewing.
lining
The sweat band of a hat is often the most easily overlooked part. But it is the most important part to wear, and it is in direct contact with your skin, so you can directly feel the quality of the material.
In the middle and low grades, the sweat belt not only absorbs sweat poorly, but also tends to feel bored, and the material is hard and the elasticity is poor, so it is very uncomfortable to put it on your head. A top hat and a sweat belt are much better. Not only does it feel comfortable and elastic when it comes into contact with the skin, it will not have a headache after long-term wear, and it will not relax after years of wear.
Hat type
Hats are constantly deposited through historical accumulation. Therefore, the nuances of hat changes are not something that any factory can handle. It takes decades or even hundreds of years of experience to know how to solve and avoid the problems in hat making, which makes these classic hat types more and more perfect.
Perfect hat type
Many people make the mistake of choosing a rough outline when choosing a hat. The hat shape does not refer to the whole outline, but also includes the shape of the hat tongue, the way of splicing, the way of sewing and so on. Many soft hats, such as caps, must be placed on the table to see if they are deformed when they are still standing. A high-quality hat can maintain a perfect contour even when standing, and it is not only after wearing it on the head that a good-looking contour is formed.
Pay attention to your health
Different hats have different maintenance methods.
Flat hats don't have to worry about losing the prototype if they are stacked at will, because the shape of the hat has been finalized in the factory.
For a hat like Fedora, in order to avoid deformation, it is best to have a special hat Jact box, paper box or leather box when it is not put away for a long time. High-end hat shops all have such boxes.
Hartjett
Pay attention to dust prevention in daily use, and gently brush with a special cap brush when cleaning. Ironing machine is also a sharp tool for cleaning hats, and rubber or sandpaper can be used for stubborn stains. Be sure to avoid washing with water.
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