In the rainy season in Jiangnan, the most beautiful place is Jingdezhen in the green mountains.

The plum rain season in Jiangnan

The green mountains and ancient towns are shrouded in mist and rain

Traveling at this time will definitely be very different from the scenery under the clear sky

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Jingdezhen in the rain is more peaceful, simple and clear

It’s like traveling back to an ancient village

Today, let us take you to explore Jingdezhen in the rain

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Appreciate the different beauties in the rainy season in Jiangnan

01

Sanbao Pottery Village

If you have the opportunity to visit slowly, it is worth it. A miraculous story. After all, the most touching thing about a place is never just the scenery here, but the people.

Strolling through the urban area of ??Jingdezhen is as ordinary as any other city, but more than ten miles southeast of the city is the magical Sanbao Pottery Village.

△Every studio in the Pottery Village seems to have endless stories to tell.

Ceramic artist Li Jianshen built his dream residence at the foot of the mountain more than 20 years ago. At first, there were only old farmhouses and ceramic workshops here.

It looks like an ordinary farmhouse, but there is something special inside the door. It has brown tiles, earthen walls and old wood, and various porcelain bottles and pots are embedded in the walls.

△Adobe walls and clay pots create a simple yet fashionable Sanbao Village.

There is a stream brought in from the outside in the yard. The water is clear to the bottom. There are lying porcelain bowls and shards, some half buried in the mud, and ancient wooden farm tools sitting quietly aside. , faded red Spring Festival couplets are pasted on the door, the vegetation is deep, the moss marks are silent, only time flows as usual, everything is random, simple, without rules, but wild and natural. Now it is called "Shiwai Taoyuan", where you can stay and have delicious food.

Opposite is the Sanbao International Ceramic Village Art Museum. In the most quaint houses, you can often see the most contemporary artworks.

Heading further towards the mountains, accompanied by clouds and mist and clear streams, the studios of various ceramic artists and the creative bases of ceramic brands are scattered among the faint green mountains along the way.

This is an extension of Sanbao Ceramics Village - Sanbao International Porcelain Valley. The entire Sanbao should be a living museum. Almost everyone living here is related to ceramics.

I flipped through an old magazine in a pottery cafe and saw this sentence: "There is a place where ordinary young people call it Jingdezhen, artistic young people call it Changnan Ancient Town, and second-rate young people say they come here on their own. This is the journey of touching porcelain... In addition to the cups and plates that make life better, in addition to the long history, Jingdezhen has been refreshed. It is both old and new, small and beautiful, and it is also very cool. ”

△The stream flows through the workshops in the valley, dyeing both sides green.

I think that the Sanbao Village in the depths is such a unique place due to the collision of integration. It not only has the secluded atmosphere of a paradise, but also gave birth to highly modern ceramics. Art.

Even though it is hidden in the mountains and valleys of a small town, there are always international exchange activities. Everything is so incredible and natural.

02

The hometown of blue and white porcelain

This hometown of blue and white porcelain is so peaceful that you can hardly see the traces of thousands of years. There are always children and children under the big camphor tree at the entrance of the village. People enjoying the shade, a flock of ducks waddling past in the fields.

Wanting to go a little further, my friend took me to Jinkeng the next day. Jinkeng is not a pit but a village.

Only a few kilometers out of the city, when we arrived in the suburbs, we realized that the word "Qinghe" in the sentence "The first summer is still peaceful, and the beauty has not stopped" was used brilliantly. There is probably no other word that can be used. Describing the current season, the morning sun shines through the lightness of the flowers and leaves, the soft wind blows through the itching of the ears, everything is getting clearer and clearer under the sky, but there is no heat to torment, the greenery is warm but not eager, silently guarding the arrival of midsummer The tenderness and silence before.

△Under the big camphor tree at the entrance of the village, I listened to my grandfather talking about his childhood.

This place is surrounded by mountains on three sides, and the terrain is long and narrow. The Xiaonan River, a tributary of the Changjiang River, slowly passes around the village. Jiang Qi's "Tao Ji" in the Southern Song Dynasty records: "The stone and mud entering the pit are exquisitely made, and the lake pit and ridge back , The produce of Jie Tian is second to none.”

△In early summer, lotus flowers dot the fields in Jinkeng Village.

Some lotus flowers have bloomed in the wetland early, and some of them are light red and soft. Fortunately, they are far out of reach, otherwise if you touch them, they will seem to ripple and spread into the transparency of the air.

There are egrets rising and falling from time to time in the dark green and light blue background, and the slightly dull green is inexplicably lively.

A few old houses on the edge of the field are the "Dongjiao School" - a non-profit organization for ceramic cultural exchanges.

When I walked in, I heard a burst of laughter, "Come here, drink tea and eat apricots, it's a bit sour, but it will relieve the heat." Teacher Huang was busy greeting the guests. The couple were majoring in archeology and "farmed when they were busy, and farmed when they were free" in the village. "Time Archeology", rather than saying that entering the pit made their life like a peach blossom garden, it is better to say that they changed the situation in entering the pit. Not long ago, Jingdezhen suffered a heavy rain. I heard a friend said that walking on the street was like crossing a river, but in the village of entering the pit, because of the previous call to the villagers by the Dongjiao School The rivers were dredged and the water systems were sorted out and the situation was basically unharmed.

Along the wooden plank road, you can reach the restored ancient water basin and follow the path. There are several Song Dynasty kiln sites hidden deep in the forest. The kiln mouths are buried by soil and weeds. They are silent and hide their history. traces.

△The little girl selling cucumbers has an innocent smile.

Green is the color of youth, the color of the East. Ancient books say that "the color resembles the color of an object when it is born."

Even though the word "green" is so few and far between, it represents the heaviness of mountains and rivers over time. It falls at the beginning of the growth of heaven and earth, adding a light and moist vitality. It can be expressed everywhere without the need for interpretation.

The high-quality porcelain stone in the pit created the blue and white porcelain of Jingdezhen Song Dynasty. The pure fetal texture and the warm enamel of celadon are also a fresh beauty of green with white. Like a sweet rain at this time, almost the entire south is dyed with a thin layer of light blue.

03

Ancient Town by the Yao River

A dragon boat race soaked the old walls and tiles on both sides of the Yao River. This place belongs to Fuliang County, Jingdezhen, and was once Jingdezhen The birthplace of the ceramic industry.

△The sky is blue and misty rain awaits, Yaoli is waiting for you.

When the rain fell, I said goodbye to my friends and came to stay in an ancient town by the Yao River.

In the early Song Dynasty, it was commonly known as "Yaoli" due to the large number of porcelain kilns. In the late Qing Dynasty, after the decline of the porcelain industry, it was renamed "Yaoli".

The ancient town can also be regarded as a pan-Huizhou circle. Whether it is Shigang Scenic Spot, which combines Chinese and Western styles, or the Cheng family ancestral hall, which is a typical Huizhou style, it can write about the prosperity of the past.

The rain in the ancient town does not dampen the mood. The tall and deep old house is suitable for a table of cards. The spectators seem to be more enthusiastic than the players. My mother-in-law took advantage of the lull in the rain to go to the mountain to pick up a bundle of firewood. If it continued to rain tomorrow morning, it would be difficult to light the stove.

"What's so good about this?" I held the camera, and the most I could get was this question. Maybe it just seems poetic to us, but to them it's just day after day.

A night of rain filled the Yao River with water, and the morning mist erased the outline of the distant mountains. The trees breathed green breath, and the air was filled with the smell of green grass, neither light nor heavy.

Ignoring the rain, I held an umbrella and walked back and forth by the river for a long time. The rain between heaven and earth fell in the silence between heaven and earth, and all the hesitations will be washed away. , melting into the joy of a mountain stream, every splash of water you sing is affirmation.

△The once prosperous dock is now lonely and deserted.

Landscapes should be carefully viewed in the rain, and the same goes for villages. Only through the dense water vapor can the green color appear moist and calm.

After the heavy rain, the distant mountains and nearby villages, wooden bridges and streams were all lost in the mist and mist. They looked like a wet green landscape, with azurite, stone green, and flower-green mixed with each other. It becomes a subtle color of varying shades.

Obviously there is no one to wait for, and I don’t like singing, but I can’t help humming "The sky is blue waiting for misty rain, and I am waiting for you...", who told me to love this so much? The scenery of the mountains, the temperature of the wind and the sound of falling rain.

Everything is so clean that there is no trace left, as if there should not even be any worries. When I returned to the inn all soaked to the skin, a group of northern uncles next door were still playing cards while looking at the rain outside the door and muttering, "It keeps raining like this, it's impossible to play," and I wasn't going to tell them that I missed it. Something.

Not far to the north of Yaoli is Yaonan. The Lishutan deposits are the most representative kiln site with cross-sectional features discovered so far. The firing period ranged from the mid-Tang Dynasty to the mid-late Ming Dynasty. between. To the south is Kaolin, where kaolin, the high-quality porcelain clay required for making porcelain, is produced.

△Making and repairing the blank... This is a process of dialogue between man, clay and knife.

On the way to Kaoling, you have to cross the East River. There is an ancient wharf for transporting porcelain stones on the river bank. Over time, it has naturally become a market. The wharf that was built with strips of stone in the past has long become a tourist destination for women. In the land of clothes, perhaps there are only the dents made by wheelbarrows on the stone road, and we still remember the busy days of transporting ore to and from the high mountains.

△After the hibiscus flowers bloom, the rainy season begins in the ancient town.

Some of the old houses facing the street have been painted white, and the brand-new shop names painted on the walls seem to flash the desire for the old street to be reborn due to tourism, and are connected with the East River that has flowed for thousands of years. Can't even water satisfy you?

In any case, those footsteps walking across the stone bridge every day, although they are in a hurry, there is never any hesitation.

But we are just passers-by after all. The day we left has already cleared up, and in the clear and almost transparent season, some phoenix trees have already sprouted leaves, and the sour smell of the first plum has not yet spread through our teeth and cheeks.

During the intervals between the rainy season, there will be wisps of sunlight falling, and every inch of sunshine is worth cherishing. It is a dream, a hope, and even more an expectation. I will make an appointment with my friends next time. Next time, I will try to make a piece of porcelain by myself, refining the clay, making the blank, glazing, and firing...

Pour the beauty and tranquility into the sagger, all the heat Roast and scars are the chords of life. A pair of ordinary hands holds a piece of celadon and touches the original business of heaven and earth. What I am willing to spend a longer time to slowly understand is this one of the purest and most charming ceramics. city.

★ Voyage recommended★

How to get there

Self-driving: The whole journey from Shanghai to Jingdezhen is a high-speed drive, which takes about 6-7 hours.

High-speed rail: Shanghai has a high-speed rail that goes directly to Jingdezhen, but the frequency is less, twice a day. You can also take the high-speed rail to Wuyuan and then transfer, which has more frequency and is more flexible; starting from Beijing, you need to transfer in Shangrao or Hangzhou , the whole journey takes more than eight hours.

Airplane: Shanghai has one direct flight to Jingdezhen Airport every day; Beijing has about two direct flights to Jingdezhen every week.

Stay

Jingdezhen Taoxichuan International Trade Hotel

Located in Taoxichuan Ceramic Culture and Creative Park, it is a high-end themed boutique hotel with the theme of Taoyi culture. The factory area of ??"Universe Porcelain Factory", one of the top ten state-owned porcelain factories, was renovated. It has an industrial style design, a waterscape in the atrium, solid wood furniture, and paintings from the old Jingdezhen Porcelain Factory on the walls. The artistic atmosphere of ceramics is everywhere. Just outside the door is the Creative Plaza, where you can stroll along the Taoxichuan River. There is a ceramic night market with stalls on weekend nights, making it convenient to go shopping and eat.

Address: Tao Xichuan Creative Park, No. 150, Xinchang West Road

Food

Xingyixian Space Yixi Restaurant

Restaurant's The boss is also a designer. The entire restaurant embodies light and shadow in details, which is a very good aesthetic space design. The dishes are also amazing and are creative dishes. The lime seabass and beef in sour soup are both worth recommending.

Address: No. 110, Sanbao Road

Shiwai Taoyuan Restaurant

The restaurant is located in an old house in Sanbao Pottery Village. The environment is quite unique, with green mountains and green waters. The room is simple and quiet, with a strong rural atmosphere. The restaurant serves local Jingdezhen flavors, which are farm dishes. Because the ingredients are fresh, it is worth a try, but some dishes are spicy.

Address: Silijia, Sanbao Village

Taste of Sanbao

Located in Sanbao International Porcelain Valley, backed by mountains and facing countryside, it has a farmhouse style. There is a special cave inside. The dishes focus on local farm dishes and the taste is very authentic.

Address: No. 260, Sanbao Road, Jingcheng Town

-The End-

Text/Qing Jian

Photography/Qing Jian< /p>

New Media Editor/Strawberry Girl