Are the 80s really as cool as they say?

Petri, who was born in Scotland, has visited India and Africa, is the lead singer of the band The Chelsea Set, and has worked as an antique buyer at Sotheby's. In the late 1960s, Petri, who was determined to go to London to realize his "band dream", found out that he was just an "outsider".

In an atmosphere shrouded in punk, mod culture and sexual revolutionary ideas, the streets of London at that time were filled with new immigrants, including people of different races, skin colors, and non-mainstream sexual identities. As a Scottish GAY, Petri deeply feels that he is different and even feels marginalized.

At first, he set up a stall in the Camden Market in London (a gathering place for punk youth) and worked as a photography assistant. In the 1980s, the emergence of The Face, the index magazine of British pop culture, not only changed the face of fashion magazines, but also marked the advent of the Buffalo era.

Fashion turbulence that breaks the mainstream tradition of gender and skin color

The Face, a unique publication that goes against the mainstream, specializes in exploring rising subcultures and new products, and makes fashion appear for the first time in the world Stylist jobs. So who is qualified to be the "first stylist"? The answer is none other than Ray Petri!

At that time, Petri organized a team called "Buffalo" and went to the streets from time to time to discover new fashion styles. Photographer Jamie Morgan once said: "Ray, being gay, wanted to show that a man can be sexy, well-groomed, beautiful." (As a Gay, Ray wanted to show that a man can be sexy, well-groomed, and beautiful.) Based on street style and influenced by reggae and club culture, Buffalo officially subverted the fashion mainstream of the year.

Compared with the "white beauty" in mainstream fashion magazines, Petri prefers to use models of Latin American, Caribbean and Mexican descent. The emergence of Buffalo has also successfully broken the boundaries between streetwear and high fashion. In an era obsessed with the "suit revolution," this blazer paired with a checkered skirt, or a trench coat and boxer shorts were definitely the best proof of rebellion.

In addition, Buffalo also started the development of asexual fashion. Petri, who likes to disassemble, tailor and splice by herself, not only improves the tailoring of clothing, but also expands the consistent gender dressing - boys are still strong and strong in skirts; girls are still not charming in suits. This "non-mainstream" attitude has successfully broken through traditional fashion values.

In the cover of The Face in 1985, Petri randomly found a 13-year-old boy named Felix on the street. Wearing a feathered felt hat with a killer sticker on his head, and a black suit and white turtleneck, he stared at the camera with a deep frown, his eyes provocative and cold.