Heyeping in Heyeping tourist area in Wuzhai County, a hazy love poem

Author: Hao Zhiming Heyeping is a name in a dream, like a classical woman from the South. And she is in Shanxi, in northwest Shanxi, Wuzhai County in northwest Shanxi, which we often think of as desolate, barren, and full of yellow sand. Maybe it's a necessary illusion, maybe it's an accidental ignorance. At least I belong to the latter, and I don’t have the color of life in my mind about Wuzhai and other areas in northwestern Shanxi.

When the name Heyeping appeared again and again, and the female poet Ren Lin related to her, they gave me something like a dream. It gave me an impulse to encounter. In the fragmentary descriptions of Lotus Leaf Ping - pastures, cows and horses, mushrooms, forests, Haizi, the Great Wall..., an endless yearning unfolds.

Wuzhai is 250 kilometers away from Taiyuan. This is stated in the "Wuzhai County Chronicle". From Taiyuan on the Dayun Expressway to Xinzhou, along the newly built Xinwu Line, we slowly entered the mountain forest at a place called Yanghu. This is Ningwu Mountain, with huge strange rocks accompanying it. The car slowed down, climbed over Ningwu Mountain, passed through a gentle valley bottom, and climbed over Guanjuan Mountain again. The mountain is high and the road is steep, so the car goes down cautiously. I have been telling myself to slow down

For yearning, eagerness is definitely. Therefore, it will be faster. But you have to go slowly to Heyeping. Just as rushing can disrupt people's thoughts, the quiet Heyeping won't like people who bump into it rashly, right? Maybe this is the mystery of God's creation. In front of Heyeping, there is a mountain that you must slow down your pace and mood.

As you get off the mountain, head left to the south. The sign at Heyeping tells you the way forward. A huge reservoir appeared - Nanfeng Reservoir, which gathered the sweetness of Qinglian River and embraced everyone who walked into Heyeping with dreams.

Starting from the reservoir, we have actually entered the Wuzhaigou Scenic Area. What flows in the valley is the Qinglian River, which originates from Heyeping. The river is not big, and it fits the shape of the girl in my mind. Strange-shaped stones can be seen everywhere on the mountains on both sides. Stone Buddhas, stone tigers, stone lions, kissing lovers (Lover Ridge)...the mountain color gradually deepens, and the exposed stones and loess gradually disappear, replaced by gradually taller trees, the louder sound of water, and huge stones. They all ran into the ditch. About 5 kilometers away, we arrived at a small village called Dianping, where we saw the "Wuzhaigou Resort" renovated from a forest farm compound.

In this largest primary secondary forest in North China, North China larch and spruce are the masters here. On the rocks where the soil is almost invisible, they all stand straight up, touching the sun. The huge Qingquan stone turns the tinkling harps played by the Qinglian River water into an original sound that will intoxicate and soothe you.

The gradually upward cement road was replaced by a rugged gravel road, which was even more uneven due to the flash floods a few days ago. Is Heyeping really as inaccessible as that noble fairy? The road to find is so difficult! Ren Lin's younger brother, Manager Ren Wei, explained that because this area is close to Heyeping and belongs to the core protected area of ??the primeval forest, building the road will destroy the natural ecology and has not been implemented for a long time. In this way, we can understand the well-intentioned reason why it is difficult to travel. Let Heyeping be more reserved!

Six or seven kilometers away from Heyeping, fog has enveloped the entire mountain forest. It is impossible to go to Heyeping. Regret is inevitable, leave the dream behind. Ren Wei took us to Sifang Forest. Sifang Forest is a scenic spot in Heyeping. It gets its name from the fact that it overlooks the surrounding forest and surrounds an approximately square meadow. Natural trails created by tourists and shepherds crawl among the trees. Sometimes soft and sometimes hard are stones or "steps" formed by the intertwining of tree roots. The old beams photographed look like fossils. There is a small spring under the roots of the tree. A faint mist loomed in the forest, and little droplets of water hit my face, like rain or fog.

There are no birds singing in the forest because of the cloudy sky, and it is as quiet as the moonlight on a spring night. Lao Liang's camera shot left and right, and his admiration made me gradually forget about Heye Ping and get lost in the mist of Sifang Forest. Breathing does not require any lung function, it is natural and smooth, and the air full of water vapor moisturizes the chest that is surrounded by dust and smoke. We met mushroom pickers by chance and showed us their little harvest. They say that there are many people picking mushrooms and it is difficult to find them, but as long as it rains and the sun shines, they can grow in one night. Maybe this is the realm of searching. Even though they don’t know much, there are still many people who are searching. From the foot of the mountain to now, we have met many mushroom pickers. Probably they all know the philosophy of letting things go. And what about my dream of finding Heyeping?

After walking hundreds of meters through the forest, it suddenly dawned on us that a green carpet-like meadow lay diagonally in front of us. The meadow is dominated by alfalfa and carex, which are said to be sweet. No wonder it has become a natural pasture. Ren Wei told us that we should come in June and July. There will be flowers everywhere, almost one species every week. This is the first of the seven meadows we encountered in Sifang Forest. The cattle herder told us this place is called "Evil Tiger Rock". I'm surprised by this horrible name. But this soft, moist meadow can completely dispel this terror. It is gentle here.

The cowherd also showed us his mushrooms, such as water skin, big handful, comatus, white silver plate, red silver plate... among which the red silver plate is the most precious.

Looking up, I saw trees again, scattered among the meadows, more or less, with weird postures, some even turned two 90-degree turns, and some were lying on the ground and still growing. Some of them have withered and are standing there like iron. Watching the time, watching the secret of creation.

The fog became thicker and thicker. We passed through another forest and saw cattle in the fog.

There are dozens of them, grazing leisurely. We also saw a large area of ??the famous local dry lotus that we encountered when we first entered the forest, but there were relatively few of them. It is said that one of the reasons why Heyeping is famous is because of the dry lotus that grows here. Unfortunately, we missed her flowering period, but occasionally we can still see golden spike-shaped flowers staring at us aloofly.

It was getting late, the fog was getting thicker, and no one could be seen ten meters away, so we decided to go down the mountain. Although there is some illusion of getting lost here and forgetting everything, the life that may belong to life does not allow us to do this. However, when you leave the city, you must forget about being a member of that sequence at this moment, and give your life to the quiet mountains, soft meadows, and thick fog. At least for a moment, you must close your mind. Close your eyes and take a deep breath of the air of Sifanglin.

People are so strange. On the way down the mountain, I suddenly asked about the direction of Heyeping. My longing hits me again, like this moist air, refreshing into my body. It seems that tonight's dream is very fragrant, but will the desire for a clear tomorrow disturb my dream? If I were to write a love poem for Heyeping, the introduction would seem too lengthy, but if I were to interpret an artistic conception, it might not be enough.

The next day, when I woke up early in the morning, the sky was still a little gloomy, but the fog had dispersed, and the shadow of the sun was dormant behind the clouds, and it might come out at any time. Lao Liang and I both sighed at God's blessing and finally stopped waiting any longer and hurried up the mountain.

Some of the cold air makes me more awake as the altitude increases, and it is still a rugged mountain road. At this moment, I was even more careful because I was afraid of disturbing He Yeping's dream. The car suddenly broke through the mountain forest at a place called "Three Monkeys Worshiping the Lion". The quiet tour guide Xiaomao pointed ahead: We are almost at Heyeping. On the left side of the road is a forest with the best forest appearance, neatly placed there. They also stopped in front of them like a knife, stroking the lotus leaves. In the ditch under the road and on the right side of the road, the forest gradually decreased and turned into a gentle slope with a few stones and meadows. The Qinglian River is trickling down along the half funnel-shaped Lotus Leaf Ping.

(Interlude: When he was approaching the top of the mountain, Lao Liang suddenly stopped the car excitedly. It turned out that he saw Luya Mountain in the rearview mirror, and a cloud of white mist was passing through the mountain. Luya Mountain It became mysterious. He immediately started taking pictures and was grateful for the adventure of getting up early. He said: "If you miss this kind of beauty, you will never see it again.")

Yes, it is the process of searching in life. Maybe it's a momentary opportunity. He Yeping finally embraced me.

The Lotus Leaf Ping is clear because of the strong wind.

A green, slightly curly lotus leaf lies shyly in front of us. Because the weather is getting colder, there are not many cows and horses, but they are just dotted on the lotus leaf field. Xiaomao told us that there are nearly ten thousand cows and horses at most. Sheep have a date here. It turns out that Heyeping is as pure and natural as in the dream, with cows and horses grazing leisurely and tourists on horseback strolling. Horses cannot run wildly on Heyeping, because Heyeping is not as vast as the Inner Mongolia grassland, and there are round hills on the ground, called frozen hills, which are caused by the presence of perennial frozen soil. And will change with temperature changes. There is only a bend called Happy Horse Bay near the northern edge where you can run around. Therefore, Heyeping is a place where you can feel calm. No wonder those on horseback always ask the horseman to run, but the horse is strolling leisurely. She seems to be telling those eager people to slow down! Just the way we came.

On the edge of Happy Horse Bay is the ruins of a section of the Great Wall of the Northern Qi Dynasty. More than 1,400 years of wind and frost have caused the once tough character to lose its strength and are scattered irregularly in piles. Only at the northwest end is a small section that can be called the wall, which reads the resume of the Great Wall. On the reddish-brown stone, the moss is dry and black. It seems to be telling people the vicissitudes he has experienced, and it also seems to be telling us that he is now lying quietly in the gentle arms of Heyeping, looking at the Liao and Song Dynasties, the prosperous Tang Dynasty, and the sun, moon and stars.

Going into the center of Heyeping, the two flat peaks in the north and south are called the North and South Jiangtai. It is said that Heyeping was once the place where Yang Liulang herded horses and stationed troops. Beijiangtai is the highest peak of Guanchuan Mountain, with an altitude of 2784 meters, 39 meters higher than Luya Mountain. Follow the rutted cattle road (the road that cattle and horses have trodden all year round for drinking water, and the locals call it the cattle road) towards Nanjiangtai, in order to see one of the wonders on the lotus leaf terrace - Ganhaizi, which is round and exquisite. The lakes range from hundreds of square meters in size to a few square meters in size. Xiao Mao said that there are also some in Beijiantai, but they are not as big as those in Nanjiangtai. There are more than a dozen in total. The Nanjiang Terrace has the flavor of a prairie, and is much smoother. As far as the eye can see, only the surrounding peaks such as Luya Mountain are dotted on the edge of the meadow, like mirages on the horizon. Close to the edge, the steep slope below you is as green as weaving, and the cattle are leisurely. Farther away, your eyes disappear into the 24,000 hectares of Heyeping subalpine meadow and the 820,000 hectares of virgin forest. The round dry sea is like a mirror or a plate, and the water is slightly rippled by the wind. This kind of lake is said to "never dry up in case of drought and never overflow in case of flood." It has water all year round, nourishing all living things in Heyeping and nourishing the souls of people who walk into Heyeping. She makes your heart feel like water and your love like the sea.

The mountain wind was so strong that it felt freezing. The sun was in the clouds, shining patches of sunshine on some places outside the Lotus Leaf Ping, and disappeared in an instant. Lao Liang is waiting for a light ray of sunshine, and I am waiting too. When we got down to the middle of Nanjiang Terrace, the sunlight really came out. It was faint and barely cast a shadow, but it was warm and considerate. Lao Liang started his photography excitedly again.

This soft light is best for photography.

I began to be surprised by the mystery of Heyeping. After painstaking pursuit and waiting and hoping again and again, she always gave me the results I wanted most. Is this really a process of finding a lover? The horses are also happy because of the sunshine. They are a little more alert than the cows. They will not turn a blind eye to you, but they are not afraid of you. They will look at you and communicate with you from a distance of more than one meter. They have experienced so many people that they have become indifferent. And what about us?

Although it was cold, under Lao Liang’s enthusiastic encouragement, I took off my coat, reclined in the arms of He Yeping and took a picture, and then gently told her, goodbye! When I went down the mountain, I felt a little sad, and my communication with Heyeping was a little less. After two days of experience, I suddenly felt like Heyeping was like a hazy love poem, like the beautiful woman in the love poem. Under the background of fog, my soul completed this immature poem, and then read it shyly and silently to Heyeping.

Passing by Shimazha (it is said to be the place where the Yang family’s generals circled their horses, so named because it was surrounded by natural stones), Lao Liang wanted to reach the top. After boarding it, it turned out that many people only saw the appearance of "Three Monkeys Worshiping the Lion", and few people looked at the content behind the lion. There are some cows lying in the large stone fence, and the meadows and forests in the distance, as well as the Qinglian River in the ditch, constitute the unique character of Heyeping.

Suddenly, little drops of water appeared. Looking back at Heyeping, a cluster of white mist quickly passed by. Heyeping has returned to her hazy artistic conception.

I finally understand the scheming of yearning—let’s use Ren Lin’s poem to explain—

When the last tourist left

You open The words I want to say

are fluttering and fluttering

are all written on this

plateau with an altitude of 2784 meters

200 million A stage of 21 square kilometers is created every year

Just to keep you clean

Be able to talk to the sky...

——"First Snow on Lotus Leaf Ping"