Nikon lens minimum aperture locking problem has 200 points reward.

In fact, the minimum aperture lock is to completely hand over the aperture control to the fuselage. The fuselage will automatically reduce the aperture according to the aperture value you set on the LCD screen or the result of photometry. This design is an all-round design, which not only considers that the old camera sets the aperture on the lens, but also considers that the new camera sets the aperture on the fuselage.

1) Lock it to the minimum aperture, that is, adjust it to F22, and then hit the pull rod on the lens to lock it. The purpose is to control the aperture value with the fuselage. At this time, if you remove the lens, you will see that the aperture is the smallest, but when you pull the lever on the lens tailstock, the aperture can be opened again. When you press the lens on the fuselage, the pull rod is pushed down to the full open position. At the moment of exposure, the fuselage controls the pull rod to move to a specific position, which is the aperture value you actually need.

2) Actually, I have explained this problem in the first article. The aperture can be adjusted on the old lens, but it is not suitable for cameras above D80. On a machine like D80, you can't feed information back to the metering and control part of the camera by changing the aperture value on the lens. This method is only applicable to older cameras. In the old generation cameras, after adjusting the aperture, such as F8, this aperture setting is to tell the camera what aperture you want in the exposure combination by changing some electrical characteristics (I estimate it is the resistance value), so that the analytical circuit in the machine will have more photometric values to determine the opening time of the shutter. At the same time, mechanically, there is a tenon or plunger left at F8 position. At the moment of exposure, the fuselage loosens the pull rod, and the broadcasting rod moves towards the minimum aperture. When it touches you and stops at the tenon position you set, your exposure aperture is realized.

The new camera does not need to set the tenon position in advance on the lens, and the body can directly control the stroke of the lever to realize aperture control. More advanced is that the electromagnetic aperture is completely excited and controlled by the fuselage. So the small ring with scale on that lens is actually useless, which is why the new lens, that is, the G series lens, has no aperture adjustment ring.

3) After locking the minimum aperture, the aperture value displayed by the camera is the result of your adjustment through the body broadcast wheel. When the camera is exposed, it will automatically shrink to the value you set on the fuselage. You can completely ignore the aperture adjustment ring, lock it directly, and adjust the aperture on the fuselage.

4) Set the minimum aperture for all new cameras. Unless he doesn't have an aperture adjusting ring.

The setting of the minimum aperture originated from cameras that automatically combine exposure and shutter priority modes. At this time, the camera can automatically select the aperture and control the lens aperture blade to shrink in place at the moment of exposure. You need to lock the aperture value to a minimum to achieve automatic shooting. The current machine, even if the aperture is the priority, the aperture value needs to be adjusted on the fuselage, so it still needs to be locked.

I feel that even if you set different aperture values, the camera will shrink according to the aperture value of the lens, which is different from that on the lens. Even if the aperture is given priority, the aperture value set on the lens cannot be correctly interpreted. Usually, my camera displays a fee, and the aperture is wrong. So, just lock it forever and adjust the aperture with the fuselage.

I don't know if I explained it clearly. Have a nice day. :)