Traditional Culture Encyclopedia - Photography major - The Summer in Biandukou in Idle Cloud Time
The Summer in Biandukou in Idle Cloud Time
Biandukou was called Dadou Valley in ancient times. It is a steep canyon that runs through the north and south of the Qilian Mountains, with a total length of 28 kilometers. Historically, it was an important passage from Qinghai to Zhangye, and it was also a throat between Gansu and Qinghai that military strategists always fought for. Today the beautiful National Highway 227 passes through it. In midsummer, rapeseed flowers bloom as far as the eye can see on both sides of the valley mouth, which is quite spectacular.
July 25th was a Saturday, and the sky was clear and blue. Yun's BMW was carrying a family of three, starting from Zhangye, passing through Minle County, and arriving at a fried noodle shop near Biandukou. It was already sunset, but it was almost dusk.
In the setting sun, rapeseed flowers and highland barley fields are seen on both sides of the road. A square of charming green and patches of bright and dazzling golden are scattered and intertwined, spreading out into a vast and charming picture. In the dusk where the smoke is thick, it looks peaceful, peaceful and beautiful.
? There are many self-driving cars parked on the roadside. The colorful tourists held their cameras to capture the Mona Lisa-like beauty of the rapeseed flower sea under the setting sun. The cloud stopped and the family walked into the picture.
? Not far ahead is the scenic spot. There are plank roads and flower viewing platforms in the scenic area, as well as some cultural and romantic scenery. For example, the English words "I? love? you" standing in the sea of ??flowers are as bright as roses. You can often see it on Kuaishou and Douyin.
? In the past few years, there was no human modification and management, no money was spent, and it was completely a natural scenery enjoyed by the people. There is no barbed wire to block it, so you can climb up the mountain and get close to the atmosphere of the mountain freely.
When Yun came to the gate of the scenic spot, the sun had already set. The dust and smoke have cleared, and there are only a few cars and horses. In the dusk, several tired men and women from the village were holding horses, waiting for the last guest on horseback. ?
Yun planned to spend the night in Biandukou. One is to let YY experience the taste of mountain living, and the other is to be full of longing for the splendor of the sea of ??rapeseed flowers under the bright sun. So, we drove back to the Chow Mein Shop. Hope it will be good weather tomorrow.
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Chow Mein Village is a remote small village located at the northern foot of the Qilian Mountains. Before Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, this place had abundant water and grass, warm winters and cool summers. It was a paradise for nomadic people to breed and live. Today's fried noodle shop has an idyllic scenery, standing quietly on the side of National Highway 227, welcoming travelers passing through Biandukou.
The summer here is rainy and the climate is cool and humid, which is suitable for the growth of highland barley. As the name suggests, Yun thought he would eat delicious highland barley fried noodles, but this was just Yun's conjecture. No one knows whether the origin of the name of the fried noodle shop is related to highland barley.
Yun took things easy and parked in front of a B&B located on the side of the national highway. The family walked inside. In Sihe's courtyard, the patio has a suspended ceiling and some red lanterns are hung. There are seven or eight guest rooms, clean and warm. The young proprietress lived in a room at the door with a baby.
The night on the plateau comes quickly and silently. Shortly after dinner, the night engulfed the sea of ??flowers, fields, fields, trees, villages and the vast figure of the Qilian Mountains like a tide.
The night on the plateau is so peaceful and peaceful, and the time is leisurely. YY sat and listened to music, while his wife leaned on the bed and checked WeChat. Yun put on his coat and walked slowly outside the store.
? ? The cool wind from the Qilian Mountains blew the leaves of the poplar trees beside the national highway, making a soft rustling sound. In the dark and deep night sky, the twinkling stars are as bright as gems. At first I only saw one or two, but later I saw many more, looming, distant and close. The stars in the sky were flickering and flickering like fireflies.
The vast starry sky is so far away yet seems within reach. In the boundless darkness, stars larger than the sun are like suspended particles of dust. Who are people? Without looking up at the stars, people will never know how small and ridiculous they are.
When Yun went back to the store, YY and his wife had already slept. Lying on the bed in the inn, Yun was half asleep and half awake. The sound of trucks driving on the national highway at night came and went in Yun's dream all night long.
The next morning, when the sparrows got up, the clouds also got up. Walk along the path behind the village towards the hillside not far away. The grass blades were covered with a thin layer of dew, and the air was fresh and moist. The highland barley in the fields on both sides has plump ears and long wheat awns.
The rising morning light paints the blooming rapeseed flowers in the scenic area, the viewing platform in the sea of ??flowers, the exquisite cabins and the original gate with a fairy-tale color.
The Qilian Mountains are so close, they have lost their usual majesty when viewed from afar. The mountain becomes gentle, soft and quiet. The aqua blue sky, the dark mountain shadows, the green highland barley, and the golden rapeseed flowers all have different levels and distinct tones.
At this moment, the village has woken up. A rooster crowed briefly as if sleepwalking. When Yun returned, he passed by an old courtyard.
A small door opened on the closed mottled iron door. Yun looked in curiously and saw some farm tools and rotten grass piled messily in the yard. There is moss everywhere on the eaves and corners, and rows of dogtail grass grow densely on the roof. In the early morning sunshine, it looks absurd and desolate.
An old man stood with his back bent and coughed under the eaves of the corridor. When he saw Yun probing his head, he asked with a stern expression what's the matter? Yun said it was the tourists who stayed in the front yard last night, so the old man relaxed his guard and his face became kind.
? ? Yun chatted with the old man. The old man said that the land had been transferred and all the young people in the village had gone out to work, leaving the elderly and women who could not leave to look after their homes and the children left behind.
In rural areas, the income from land has long been unable to support farmers' heavy years. Young people have to leave their hometowns and go to unfamiliar cities to cleanse their lives with sweat. Home is not like home, and hometown is not like hometown.
The beautiful mountain villages and vast countryside are becoming more and more beautiful, but after all, the villages are lost and decadent, and are just an embellishment in the scenery. After the rape flowers fade, they will return to a long period of loneliness.
The industrious proprietress, wearing a white kitchen coat and a yellow apron, lit a fire in the open space in front of the yard and prepared breakfast for the Yun family. The rising smoke is like the faint sadness of the countryside, slowly floating in the air.
Life is not easy, and the landlady’s business is bleak. When tourists come to Biandukou and see rapeseed flowers, they either go to Qinghai or Zhangye and do not stay here. In the store last night, there was only a family of three. ?
The inn is adjacent to the highway, and the noise of passing cars is very clear in the quiet night. It is not an ideal inn for travelers who are as sleepy as clouds.
The boss lady saw Yun and asked with a smile when she would have breakfast. Yun said it was eight o'clock and was about to go into the store after saying that. Suddenly he saw a family of beekeepers living in a shack on the opposite side of the road. The clouds crossed the road and stepped forward. In the morning breeze, a handsome young man wearing a woolen green single coat was moving a honey bucket into the van.
The beekeeper stood among a pile of white barrels. He could not tell his age. He had an unkempt beard and long hair. It seemed that he had not taken care of it for a long time and was allowed to grow naturally and messily. Seeing the guests, the beekeeper's wife came out of the shack. A typical southern woman, petite, clean-cut, very capable and hard-working, with short ear-length hair, she took the initiative to talk to Yun and help her husband attract business.
Through conversation, we found out that the beekeeper’s family is from Sichuan. Every July, when the rapeseed flowers are in full bloom, they come to Biandukou to release bees. This is the seventh year. Beekeeping is a hard work that wanders around all year round, living among flowers and sleeping in the open air.
In winter and spring in the south, in summer and autumn, there are fewer flowers in the south and in full bloom in the north. The beekeeper family leaves Yunnan, Sichuan, and comes to Gansu, Ningxia, and even Xinjiang. He said that in about ten days, the rapeseed flowers will wither and they will move elsewhere with the bee swarms.
After saying that, the beekeeper scooped out a spoonful of yellow-yellow-green pollen particles from the bottle, poured it into Yun's palm, and let Yun taste it. Then he asked Yun to taste the honey of rapeseed flowers in bulk in the jar. He told Yun some common sense about natural honey. The honey is really good, fragrant and sweet.
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Yun asked in confusion, "Why is honey so sweet?" The beekeeper laughed and said, "The most bitter thing is Guo Lian. The sweetest thing is honey. If it’s not sweet, it wouldn’t be honey! "Early in the morning, Yun took care of the beekeeper's business and bought four kilograms for one hundred yuan. To be honest, honey is very good and not expensive.
The boss lady prepared breakfast: boiled eggs and stir-fried eggs Shredded potatoes, millet rice porridge and hot flower rolls, plus a small plate of rapeseed sprouts cooked in a local way. The rapeseed sprouts were a bit salty. YY, who was born after 1990, took a bite and found it difficult to swallow, but Yun ate it. The taste of my mother in the poverty era.
When I left the hotel, the morning sun rose over the mountaintops in the east. The rapeseed flowers in the morning light were bright and beautiful, and the green trees and rural houses were among them, which was peaceful and beautiful. Just like the impressionist master Monet, the landscapes painted by Van Gogh are bright, peaceful, and shocking to people's souls.
Yun thought of Zhuangzi's words, "The beauty of heaven and earth cannot be expressed." "I also think of what Rabindranath Tagore wrote, "Life is as gorgeous as a summer flower..." Yes! Everything in the world is tempted to come into being without knowing why it is born, and its beauty blooms without even realizing it.
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? After ten o'clock, the parking lot of the scenic spot was filled with tourists. Yun was a misty lone creature, either living quietly in his study or walking alone in the mountains and rivers. The clouds leave the sea of ??flowers and drive into the Biandukou Grand Canyon. The canyon is cool and quiet, with towering cliffs and a smooth, winding mountain stream. On the banks of the stream, there are green grass, fragrant wild flowers, beautiful peaks on both sides, and floating clouds on the top of the mountain.
Stepping on the lush grass in the canyon feels like walking on a soft carpet. YY found yak dung all over it and shouted to be careful of landmines.
The long black shadows of Qilian spruce trees in the canyon are like the caravans meandering away in the depths of the years, and like the lonely figures of those eminent monks and literati.
It is said that Zhang Qian, Su Wu, Huo Qubing and the monk Faxian. Cen Shen, Gao Shi, Wang Wei and Li Bai. They have all traveled here before for their respective missions and dreams. Emperor Yang of Sui Dynasty also passed by. He is not here to see the rapeseed flowers, he is here to rebuild the Silk Road.
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The cloud is standing on a huge rock, and the stream is running endlessly under the feet. Time goes back to the fifth year of Sui Dynasty, that is, the early summer of 609 AD. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty led a large group of troops and marched hard through this rugged canyon with an altitude of more than 3,000 meters and unpredictable weather conditions. Suddenly, strong winds came, dark clouds rolled in, heavy snow fell, and the temperature dropped sharply.
Historical records record: "The mountain passes are dangerous, and there are many people coming out. It is windy and snowy, the civil and military forces are hungry and wet, and the front camp has not been captured for a long time. More than half of the soldiers died of freezing, as many as eighty-nine horses and donkeys, and the concubines in the harem , Lord or lost each other in embarrassment, and stayed in the mountains with the soldiers."
Legend has it that during this tragic western tour, Emperor Yang's sister Yang Lihua also froze to death in the canyon. "Book of Zhou? Biography of Queens" records: "Emperor Yang visited the west and accompanied Princess Leping. She was the daughter of Emperor Wen, the sister of Emperor Yang, and the Tianyuan Empress Yang Lihua of Emperor Xuan Yuwen of the Northern Zhou Dynasty. She was buried in Hexi."
Two kilometers away from the mouth of the valley, there is a small mountain pile. It has been eroded by wind and rain, collapsed, and is desolate and lonely. There are luxuriant wild grasses and swaying mountain flowers on it, and there are no inscriptions or epitaphs. The locals call it the Niangniang Tomb, and it is said that it is the resting place where Yang Lihua's fragrance disappears.
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On a sunny morning, there is a cool breeze and green grass in the canyon. On the road, vehicles pass through it, and from time to time, groups of cattle and sheep can be seen walking slowly. The moonlight of the Han Dynasty, the charm of the Tang Dynasty, the snow and frost of the Sui Dynasty, and the thousand-year sound of camel bells have long been lost in the long river of history with the wind and cannot be found. The green mountains remain the same, the white clouds linger, and it seems like nothing has happened here.
The cloud car circled up, climbed over the mountains and ridges, climbed to the Oboling Pass with an altitude of 3685 meters, and came out of the Biandukou Canyon.
Standing on top of the mountains, standing under the blue sky and white clouds. Looking down, the Qilian Grassland is right in front of you. Looking back, Biandukou Canyon is hidden among thousands of green ravines.
This is the junction line between Gansu and Qinghai, and it is also a place where nomadic people worship heaven and pray for blessings. Mani stone piles with prayer flags flying can still be seen on the roadside. Several travel friends parked on the roadside and took photos with internet celebrity street signs with a happy POS.
After going down to the Erbo Ridge Pass, you will arrive at the small town of Erbo in Qilian County, Qinghai. The town is small and full of rich exotic customs. The words "Ancient Silk Road" on the roadside remind you that the ancient Tea Horse Market once existed here. Today, the town is still lively. Pedestrians passing through the Biandukou Canyon stop here to take a rest. The roadside is filled with all kinds of vehicles from all over the world.
? On the grassland, colorful wind horse flags are hung in a beautiful umbrella shape. A beautiful Dolma girl danced the graceful Guozhuang alone in front of an umbrella. Blue sky, white clouds and green grass tent. Yun's ears rang, "In that far away place, there is a good girl... I would like to be a lamb and follow her..."
Yun has been unable to become a lamb after all the vicissitudes of life. , Yun drove a BMW and reluctantly left the town and the dancing girl.
Where did the cloud come from, and where will it eventually return! This weekend, Yun seemed to have had a dream. I don’t know whether Yun dreamed of Biandukou, or Biandukou dreamed of Yun. When I woke up from the dream, the clouds were in Ganzhou.
? "A beautiful woman can't be saved in the world like a beauty in the mirror or a flower in a tree." If you must go to a grand flower event in this life, Yun recommends that you go to Linzhi in Tibet in March and have a romantic encounter ten miles away. The peach blossoms are colorful. In July, go to Biandukou in Zhangye and encounter the brightness and beauty of thousands of acres of rapeseed flowers.
Life is like a journey against the odds, and the clouds are also travelers. Meeting is like meeting for the first time, looking back is like a lifetime. The world is in a hurry. If you have the opportunity to pass by Biandukou in the summer, Yun Xiang would like to say to you, "Don't rush! Walk slowly! Enjoy it! Don't let this wonderful journey of your life go down!"
? (2020 summer code in Zhangye Yunzhai.
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