Professional photographers will not easily tell you photography tips, see which one you know.

Professional photography has some difficult things to learn, but there are also many skills in it. Today, I will give you a detailed explanation of the problem of photographic light. After mastering the skills given to you by Beiying Photography, you will know what are the common photographic exposure problems? And how to avoid overexposure? How to avoid the brightness contrast of the picture?

Problem 1: overexposed or underexposed

Overexposure means that the brightness of a photo exceeds the exposure brightness range that this photo should be taken; Underexposure means that the brightness of a photo does not reach the exposure brightness range that this photo should be taken.

Simply put, the exposure of photos can be divided into high-profile, medium-profile and low-profile. High-profile means that the photo is bright, middle-profile means that it is not bright or dark, and low-profile means that the photo is dark. Not that the photos are high-profile or overexposed, but that they should be in the middle tone. High-profile words will be overexposed, or low-key middle tone or high-profile good.

When a large area of the picture is white, it is necessary to shoot with a high profile-plus exposure compensation, which is called adding white. There is a large area in the picture that is very dark, so it is necessary to keep a low profile-exposure reduction compensation, which is called black reduction.

How to accurately expose?

Whether it is a bright area or a dark area, the details are very rich and it is a good exposure. Exposure problems are easy to occur when the tolerance range is exceeded. Tolerance range refers to the range that can correctly accommodate the brightness contrast in photos. Simply put, even if your exposure is "normal", because the brightness contrast in the picture is beyond the tolerance of the camera, there will inevitably be dead white, dead black or both.

In fact, I suggest you use global metering (evaluation metering, multiple metering, matrix metering), and then shoot with 0EV, which is generally not a big problem. We can directly see the exposure results when we take pictures. When we add or subtract exposure compensation, the picture will become brighter or darker, and we can see the result intuitively. Take a picture at 0EV, then play it back and judge for yourself. If it is bright, reduce the exposure compensation; if it is dark, increase some exposure compensation.

Question 2: Scenes with large light ratio

The so-called large light ratio scene means that there are very dark (dark) places and very white (bright) places in the picture, and often only one can be guaranteed. This is the most direct case that the brightness contrast of the picture exceeds the tolerance. In fact, the most mature photographer, we should try to avoid the situation that the brightness contrast of the picture exceeds the allowable range.

Find a good view

Where to shoot and what kind of scenery to shoot are also important. For example, when shooting sunrise and sunset, many photographers will find several ground scenes in advance, and then go directly to the nearest location to shoot when the weather is fine. This will have a good ground view to set off the sky.

Question 3: Obvious dead zone

The so-called dead white is that there is a fault on the far right of the picture in the histogram, and a lot of information is gathered in the pure white position, even if it is pulled back, it can't be pulled back. After we obviously adjust the color scale, the brightness of the dead white position of the picture will not change, but white, which is called dead white.

Objects under white or strong light are most likely to be overexposed to white. There are many ways to avoid it, which requires improvisation, but the verification method has a very simple one-highlighting early warning. All cameras have this function, which may be called differently. It may be in electronic shooting or playback, which is an obvious dead white place.

So what is the standard for judging light and shade?

One standard is to ensure the effect of the subject you want to shoot.

Let's take sunrise and sunset for example. The sky is beautiful. So we have to ensure the color. If the exposure is too bright, the color will turn white; If the exposure is too dark, the color will turn black. At this time, we have to measure what color you want by ourselves.

Question 4: The color temperature is too biased.

Some people don't pay attention to white balance at all, and they don't pay attention to color temperature when shooting. So strange colors will appear in the picture. Being good at using colors definitely requires long-term cultivation and talent.

Sunrise and sunset actually look similar, and they are all very popular themes. Why do many photographers like to shoot such subjects? Quite simply, there will be a color temperature that changes very quickly at sunrise and sunset. When the color temperature is high, it can show the feeling of sadness and high cold. When the color temperature is low, it can give a warm feeling.

Color temperature is very important.

At sunrise and sunset, the color temperature is low and the picture is warm. After sunrise and sunset, the color temperature suddenly became very high and the picture was cold. The warmth and coldness of the picture will obviously have some different feelings. For the high color temperature after sunset, you can also express something. For example, I want to express desolation and loneliness.

Question 5: Outdoor glare

Whether shooting landscapes or portraits, avoid the sun hanging high when shooting outdoors. Because the light is too strong. The light shines strongly on people. Do you think the light shines on the face? If it doesn't shine on the face, it will be black. If it shines on the face, it will be overexposed. If there is a shadow, the shadow on the face is particularly heavy. If there are outdoor portraits, wait until the light is soft, such as one hour after sunrise, one hour before sunset, or cloudy.

Before, everyone said not to take pictures with strong light. In fact, the shooting scenes are all the same. Adjust the highlight and white level appropriately, darken the tone, and brighten the shadow and black level. The picture will be much better.

Observe light and shadow

Some people say that if the sun rises and sets, is it necessary to photograph the sky? Actually, not necessarily. Sunrise and sunset don't need to be filmed directly, and the indirect performance is also very good. The shadow falls on the wall, so that we can feel the sunset.

Question 6: What about the composition?

When composing a composition, we often mainly consider the scenery on the ground. This is especially true for scenes without the sun in the picture.

If the sun is in the picture, and the sun occupies a large area, we may make a composition in the middle. We may also want to put the sun at the focus of the three-point line. But whether the sun is above or below, I think it mainly depends on the actual situation on the spot. If it doesn't matter if it is placed above or below, there may be such a reference. The elements at the top of the screen appear to be floating; The element is in the lower part of the picture, and it seems to sink.

Appropriate focal length

The way you want to make the sun bigger: use a telephoto lens. The telephoto helps to enlarge the distant scenery, and similarly, the sun is far away. Remember, if you want to make the sun bigger, there is no other way than a super telephoto lens.

But it doesn't mean that shooting sunrise and sunset must be a telephoto lens, and it should also be viewed in combination with the scenery on the ground.