Walking in Dandong

Yang quanfu

? I have an obsessive love for Dandong, which all comes from the origin of the place name of Danba. Danba is named after the initials of Dandong, Badi and Wang Ba, from which we can know the important position of Dandong in the history of Danba, or maybe Dandong Township is the highest place in Danba County, so it is unknown to take its initials. I really want to walk into his arms, but it's a long way and I haven't found a suitable partner, so I have to wait for opportunities again and again in loneliness. The more times I wait, the more I miss her, and how many times I have intimate contact with her in my dreams. However, this is a mirage and hazy. This year, the unit will organize teachers to supervise Dandong Primary School, which is a rare opportunity. I signed up for this hiking trip first, although the road ahead is full of mystery and unknowns.

? Travel experience

? A group of five of us set off from Danba at about 9: 30. When we crossed the village of Booker, the weather suddenly became unfathomable. The sky is full of dark clouds and keeps rolling. Occasionally, we can see some blue awnings through the cracks in the clouds. The rolling peaks seem to be within reach, and the black and white Tibetan houses on the roadside are neatly arranged. At the top of Tibetan houses, colorful prayer flags fluttered in the wind.

? After walking a few miles, suddenly, a beam of sunshine broke through the dark clouds and penetrated the misty and chaotic sky, shining on the distant mountain village, mysterious and brilliant, unparalleled. This is a unique magical natural scene in the plateau canyon! Without waiting for a careful reward, the sun reluctantly took back his indescribable light. At this moment, if I can keep that ray of light forever, I am willing to exchange my most precious things!

After the car drove past Yangliuping, the road surface began to be uneven, and the car swayed from side to side with the ups and downs of the road surface. Although the asphalt road was penetrated last year, the geology here is relatively loose, and the rocks above the canyon collapsed a lot in the rainy season, smashing all the newly built roads below. Due to poor road conditions, the road ahead can only move slowly in bumps. The engine of the car rang dully, and the windows swung like percussion instruments. Several colleagues in the same car joked that it was a free song and dance feast, and it was really a pleasure in suffering. Outside the window, the scenery is changing at any time, sometimes the canyons are crowded together, and a winding road barely passes by the cliff. It's scary to watch the steep wall cut. Sometimes the boundaries between heaven and earth suddenly become clear, just like a cornucopia.

Halfway through, Wen Wen, who is also a teaching teacher, suddenly burst into tears. I opened my sleepy eyes and looked out of the window. Oh, what is presented to me is an incomparable beautiful picture. Surrounded by the forest, a lawn lies quietly in it. We quickly stopped the car and ran excitedly to the lawn. On this square kilometer grassland, flocks of sheep are scattered leisurely among them, and the smoke curled up over several white tents slowly dispersed under the breeze and filled the grassland. Several vultures are soaring in the sky, hovering in the air, sometimes gathering together, sometimes spreading out, and letting the rising airflow slowly lift it up. There are all kinds of gorgeous wild flowers on the grass, and the faint fragrance is refreshing. Say goodbye to the hustle and bustle of the city, this is a world without competition, so quiet and so far away. I lay on this land that was rendered by green grass and wild flowers of all colors, and had a close contact with the earth. I let the dew on the grass get into my clothes and let the coolness spread in my body. By my side, the wild flowers on the grass are in full bloom, and some clusters are as proud as peacock's feather wings; Some are scattered on the grass, occasionally showing their gorgeous faces from the grass; Some are unique and unusually tall, with many tiny flowers around their branches, just like the stars all over the sky. Because it has just rained, dew remains on the petals of each flower, which rolls under the breeze and becomes more crystal clear under the sunlight, making the whole scene dynamic, quiet and charming. I stood up, sang songs, and ran wildly on this lawn with my colleagues. Although we are all in our thirties, we are brought back to our childhood by this beautiful scenery, shouting freely and expressing our feelings directly. After a crazy run, I lay on the grass again. At this time, the sun slipped out of the clouds and shone warmly on the lawn. Due to the sunshine, the grass around me exudes the fragrance of grass and wild flowers. I looked at the sky with rapt attention. The sky on the plateau seemed bluer, like a crystal clear sapphire. White clouds like cotton fly freely in the blue sky, sometimes scattered and sometimes gathered, which is in harmony with the sheep in the lawn. I closed my eyes and lay relaxed on the soft grass. At the moment, I feel a little lazy all over, which makes people forget all the fatigue and all the troubles in the world.

The breeze on the plateau blew quietly from the side, with a faint chill, and my nose smelled the fragrance of the forest brought by the breeze. Colleagues lie quietly on the grass like me, and also relax and enjoy charity from the plateau like me. After a long time, we bid farewell to this charming lawn and set off for the front. The sky on the plateau looks like a child's face. I was in Wan Li just now. Unexpectedly, the blue sky was covered by dark clouds in the blink of an eye, and the air pressure was very low. Then it began to rain in Mao Mao, and the fog filled the front. We can only hope that this changeable day will clear up early in the car. Finally opened the sphere of influence of the dark clouds, and we began to enjoy the gift of creation again. We all rolled down the window and let the warm air blow into the car. The car is galloping forward, and the scenery outside changes with the elevation. The mountains in the distance are endless Qinggang Tree and meadows. I know that we will arrive at our destination soon. After turning several foothills and crossing several rivers, I finally saw a corner of the plateau town. Bumping all the way, we arrived in Dandong, a plateau town with an altitude of more than 3200 meters.

The town is small and obviously deserted. There are almost no pedestrians on the roadside, and a small river passes through the city. Most houses on the roadside are built of stone. Each house has five floors, and the ground floor is a place for raising livestock. The second floor is the boiler farmer, kitchen and master bedroom, the third floor is the guest room, and the fourth floor is the lecture hall. The construction of the whole house mainly takes into account the local climate characteristics, so it will be paved with slate to avoid being covered. When we got off the bus, it began to get cold again. We wrapped ourselves up like birds and walked into the street. Our colleague, Mr. Chen, even exaggerated to the extreme, wrapped himself up, put on a thick winter coat and zipped his neck, which attracted passers-by to look askance and made us play a good joke on him. A large group of children surrounded us and pushed us forward, as if they saw whispering. From their eyes, I read the unique childlike taste of plateau children.

? Plateau town in the early morning

? As night fell, several teachers and I were arranged to live in a tourist host's house. At night, all was silent in Dandong. Occasionally, one or two dogs bark, as if it were Sanskrit sounds coming from the distant sky, so far away, showing the silence of the plateau town. I also gradually fell asleep in the sleep and snoring of my companions.

In the early morning, a ray of skylight squeezed in from the window, and the birds singing outside the window gradually became lively from a monotonous one or two. I quickly put on my clothes, strolled out of the room, walked into the cold street, and felt the different scenery of the plateau town. Due to the cloudy days for several days, the morning in this small town of Dandong is still chilly and full of autumn breath. A small river on the street is roaring with white waves and making a deafening sound. Weeds on the roadside stubbornly straightened up, and some grass leaves rolled with crystal dew. At a loss, they finally bowed their heads, and the dew suddenly slipped. They suddenly got into the grass and could not find its trace again. The grass seems to have unloaded the burden, straightened up again and accepted my eyes. Several tits jumped up from the bushes and flew to the treetops, showing off their voices on the undulating branches. The sky is getting brighter. With the creaking of wooden doors, the early housewives opened the door sleepily and stood in front of the door greedily sucking the humid air in the morning. Their actions are lazy, but they are so orderly. They walked to the door, picked up some firewood from the woodpile, and carried it home. In a short time, the whole town was filled with gauze-like smoke, which lingered over the town for a long time and finally merged. It formed a thin layer of fog and floated to the top of the mountain with the morning fog. It was a spectacle formed by the gathering of kitchen smoke, which reminded me of the scene of kitchen smoke floating in my hometown when I was a child. I continued to walk in the street, walking aimlessly, and finally walked out of the town and came to the wild. At this time, a gentle drizzle floated in the sky, such as silk, falling on the branches, on the grass and on me. I couldn't feel its existence, just like a gentle girl, slowly and gently came to this world, adding a lot of colors to the plateau.

? Erdaoqiao hot spring

? There is a natural hot spring two kilometers away from Dandong Township. It has long been said that this kind of water has magical curative effect. Many old people with crutches come here to soak for a few days, and when they leave, they can completely get rid of crutches and walk freely like normal people. In fact, I am also convinced of this rumor. There are many such hot springs in Danba, and people love to go to these places to soak their feet, because hot springs are rich in various minerals and can treat many skin diseases, especially leg cold and rheumatism. Because of the climate, people living on the plateau are prone to rheumatism. With the increase of age, these diseases are gradually revealed. On the plateau, you will see such a scene, where old people walk on country roads and streets with crutches. In order to cure these diseases, they like to soak in hot springs in their spare time. After school in the afternoon, several teachers and I drove to the hot spring. The car bumped on the muddy road. After several turns, we came to the hot spring. The small place here is called Erdaoqiao, probably named after a wooden bridge lying across the river. In Erdaoqiao, a dozen families are built around hot springs. When we arrived, several women were taking a bath in the hot spring pool, and several middle-aged men were sitting beside them talking loudly. Instead of avoiding suspicion, they sat naked in the hot spring water and enjoyed the caress of the pool water. There is even an uncle in the pond. They rub each other's backs, which is really a return to nature and extraordinary. My colleagues and I were embarrassed to stay by the pool because of traditional ideas, so we had to walk into a farmer's house and wait, hoping that they would finish washing soon. The beautiful teacher in the same trade comes from a big city, and we all thought that she would never dare to take a bath in the water in full view. However, regardless of the boys by the pool, she took off her coat and took a shower in pants and sweaters, which made us dumbfounded and fell for her spirit. After a long time, the teacher came back, washed clean and wet. In the afternoon, the temperature in Dandong was very low, and we were still sitting around the steel stove to keep warm, but she was barefoot and wet, as if she had merged with the hot spring and didn't know it was cold. Because the waiting time was too long, the darkness in the sky gradually lengthened, so we had to go back to school bitterly.

The next night 12, we drove to take a bath again. It was raining in Mao Mao, and the bathhouse was quiet again. Because of the cover of the night, we took off the shackles of the whole body and sneaked into the bathhouse naked. The sudden penetration of hot water into our skin made us grin, so we had to stand up and run out and sit back later. The headmaster of Dandong primary school told us not to move around in the water, so that the water temperature would not be so high. We followed his example and lay quietly in the water. Sure enough, the water is no longer so hot. I closed my eyes and enjoyed the gift of hot springs. The heat got into my skin, penetrated my bones, and flowed with my blood all over my body, which made me tired. After a while, my head sweated and my head began to feel dizzy. Finally, one of my fellow teachers couldn't stand the steam bath in the hot spring and returned to the car. We had to go back to the car one by one, and we returned to our residence at midnight.

? Tusi guanzhai

I have long heard of the reputation of toast in Dandong. Now that I'm here, my first task is to appreciate the prestige of Tusi Guanzhai. Dandong is a transliteration word in Tibetan, which means the place where the two rivers meet. Dandong Tusi is the westernmost of Jia Rong's eighteen Tusi and the most powerful one in Qing Dynasty. It is connected with Bati and Wang Ba Tusi in the east, the cliff of Geshizha estuary in the southeast, Rumidong Valley, Jiezong and Gezong in the south, Zhengming Tusi, Xiazhanjia Temple Hole and Huoerzhang Valley in the west and southwest. During the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, Dandong Tusi had five big heads and eight small heads.

Dandong Tusi Guanzhai is located on the uphill opposite Dandong Village, with a vertical distance of about 100 meters from the foot of the mountain. Walking up from the foot of the mountain, a winding narrow path is available for people to go up. On both sides of the path are grass more than one meter high, which makes you feel scared, as if poisonous insects and beasts lurk in the grass and will come out to bite you at any time. In my panic, I stepped up my pace, although it was only a few tens of meters away. Climbing to the construction site of Guanzhai, my clothes were soaked with sweat and panting. Guanzhai was built on a platform of several hundred square meters, and there were weeds everywhere. In the grass, the remaining stone walls are still looming. The whole official village is made of stone, and the base at the bottom is about two meters wide, from which we can also get a glimpse of the majestic height of the official village at that time. More than 20 meters away from Guanzhai, there is a small house, which is the hall of Guanzhai and has been well preserved so far. The architectural features are quite different from those of modern hall buildings, but the thick wooden doors reveal the primitive and quaint appearance, and there are no traces of carving and polishing, giving people a solemn feeling. Pushing open the door, the fragrance of ghee came face to face, and an ever-burning lamp swayed in the stone lamp trough, giving off a dim light and illuminating the bodhisattva on the altar. There is a futon on the ground. Because people bow their heads for a long time, they can't see its background color, but feel black. I also knelt on the futon, not to sacrifice to the bodhisattva on the stage, but because of the prestige of the toaster in Dandong. The ridge behind Guanzhai extends upward, and the hillside is covered with green bar trees. People can occasionally see colorful warp cloth hanging on trees and placed along the ridge. Right in front of Guanzhai, there is a cliff about 30 meters high. There are two dragon-shaped wild cherry trees on the edge of the cliff, which are flourishing. In the middle of this cliff, a 4-meter-wide road was artificially dug and circled. This road is paved with small stones of different sizes. Two horses can walk side by side on this mountain road, stroking the uneven rocks on both sides, as if feeling the bustling scene of traffic and people coming and going at that time. On both sides of the road are stone tablets engraved with six-character scriptures. Some are blurred by the tempering of wind and rain. But the vigorous brushwork seems to penetrate the stone, giving people a beauty of strength.

On the way back, I met a tough old man, and I quickly started a family conversation with him. During the conversation, I learned that the old man is 85 years old this year. But his ruddy face and super memory are hard to equate with his age. He told me about the rise and fall of toast in Dandong. Tusi in Dandong started from twelve tribes six years ago in Yuan Dynasty (1269), and there is no written record. One generation is inherited for 25 generations. After the riots in Sandusi, the toast in Dandong was also involved. Finally, he was defeated and captured, and was held in Kangding. Since then, it has never recovered and eventually disappeared into the dust of history. The old man told me mysteriously that the Tusi official village in Dandong was built on the elephant trunk, and then there was a flood in the mountains and the elephant trunk was washed away. Since then, the toast of Dandong has declined, and there are no descendants. Under the guidance of the old man, I once again turned my attention to the Tusi Guanzhai. The mountain behind Guanzhai is undulating, just like a hungry elephant stretching its nose to drink the river at the foot of the mountain. Guancun is located at the forefront of the ridge, giving people the feeling of being like a tree trunk. The stream rushing down from the front of Guanzhai separates Guanzhai from the hillside in front, and the long trunk is washed away by ruthless water.

When the old man finished, he stroked the beads one by one with his fingers and kept reading the six-character mantra. I also fell into nostalgia for Dandong toast, and I even began to hate this stream that interrupted the trunk. Without it, I think I will definitely meet the descendants of the toasts here and talk to them.

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