My camera is Canon EOS11D and the lens is 18-135. Can I shoot a meteor shower at night?

shooting meteor showers is not a technical activity, but it takes a lot of time. Because the meteor can't be predicted in advance, so adjust the ISO parameters and exposure combination in advance, and then wait patiently for the radiation point. And this waiting is not empty waiting, but constantly taking pictures, so that there will always be bright meteors caught.

choose the place with the least light damage, that is, it is as dark as possible without light interference. As for the adjustment of parameters, ISO is generally set not to exceed 8, but as large as possible, and the aperture should be large (the smaller the aperture value f, the larger the aperture, which should be noted). Set the focal length as wide as possible, depending on your environment, that is, go in the direction of 18. 18-135, I don't know whether the distortion at the wide-angle end is high or not, but it should not affect at night. Exposure time depends on your equipment. Because the earth rotates and the exposure time is too long, the stars in the sky will pull (the stars will move with the rotation of the earth), and the longer the focal length (the closer to 135), the more obvious the pull. Generally speaking, if the exposure time is less than 15 seconds, the cable will not be obvious.

The steps of shooting are different, so mine is for reference only. The background of a meteor is a starry sky, so the background is also very important. If there is a equatorial plane, especially a professional hoshino equatorial plane, it can offset the pull wire produced by the earth's rotation, so you can take a beautiful starry background. If there are these equipments, it is a master, so I won't teach others how to swim. If not, it doesn't matter. You can also ignore the background or choose the star orbit as the background.

The shooting location should be one with little light damage. Forget this. Besides your SLR, the equipment needs a stable tripod, which is very important. cable release with timing function (you can set it directly on the camera without this, mainly to prevent the camera from shaking by pressing the shutter on the camera. If you don't have it, just don't take the first one), equatorial instrument (according to your background requirements, it doesn't matter if you don't have it). After installing the camera and tripod, aim at the vicinity of the radiation point. First, according to what I said above, switch to M file, set the exposure combination, adjust the focus, and take a few photos casually until you are most satisfied with the background starry sky. This should be patient. Even if there is a meteor passing by, don't care. Be sure to adjust the parameters to the most satisfactory. Then set the time delay to take pictures, and call the camera for automatic exposure every few tens of seconds or minutes.

post-processing. What is said upstairs is right. Long exposure has a great influence on the life of the camera, but the biggest influence is noise and overexposure. Therefore, the general photos of the star field are all exposed for a short time and then superimposed later. The same is true for shooting the star track, which is exposed for more than ten seconds, and then repeatedly exposed at intervals of more than ten seconds. In the later stage, dozens of photos are superimposed by software and post-processed, so that it will not be overexposed and the noise will be small. If you choose the star track as the background, you can follow what I said above and superimpose it later, so that there will be meteors in the middle with different directions from the star track. If you don't choose the background, you can deliberately set the ISO to a low level or the aperture to blur the background stars, so that there are few background stars, and if there are many meteors, the superposition will highlight the fireworks effect of the meteor shower. But there is a disadvantage that you will miss a lot of dark meteors, and if you don't set them properly, it may not work very well.

In short, beautiful meteor shower photos are good equipment, good preparation, good exposure combination and good post-processing. You can't master it all at once. After coding so many words, if you still have any questions, you can go to Baidu Astronomy Bar to ask, where many friends of Astronomy Association and Photography Association are old hands. Ask them.

I hope my answer is helpful to you. Please accept it!