The literary and artistic young women of the Republic of China traveled to Zhongnan Mountain and left behind a lasting legacy

In March 1947 (February of the lunar calendar), Ms. He Zhenghuang, a cultural relics expert, visited Zhongnan Mountain with several friends. This was her first time to Zhongnan Mountain, and she was deeply impressed by the scenery and people in the mountain.

After returning to Xi'an, Ms. He Zhenghuang wrote the article "Looking for Dreams in Zhongnan Mountain".

He Zhenghuang in his youth

This article details what he saw and heard in the mountains. Although it is written in modern prose, it is written fluently and is deeply inspired by Chinese classics. The writing is exquisite. Among the travel notes on Zhongnan Mountain that I have seen, this one may be the most worth reading and re-reading.

The original article was published in the 3rd issue of "Travel Magazine" in 1948.

Searching for Dreams in Zhongnan Mountain

1. Zhongnan is in sight

Zhongnan Mountain has been the distant screen in front of my window for five years. During the year, day and night, it accompanies me all the time and has become a close friend in my life.

Zhongnan Misty Rain in 1933

Whether it is cloudy, sunny, rainy or snowy, Zhongnan Mountain dazzles us with various wonderful lights and colors. Sometimes, "the mountains are washed by clear clouds and appear graceful." "Like wiping"; sometimes the clouds are half-circled, and the mountain skirt is like a cut; sometimes it is wrapped in heavy makeup, like a white dragon hanging in the air; and all of these are what I like. No matter when I wake up at the beginning of spring and still have to wash my clothes; no matter when I wake up from wine on an autumn night and stand under the full moon; I always have to take some time to open the south window and gaze at it for a long time.

He Zhenghuang, Wang Ziyun and his wife

In the middle of spring this year, Yun (Wang Ziyun) proposed to use the spring break to travel to the southern part of the country. In order not to make my long-time friend become a He met ordinary acquaintances and wanted to object, but was finally convinced by the two "Qin people" and had no choice but to agree.

It is already February in the lunar calendar, and the apricot flowers have already bloomed, but in the deep mountains, Chang'an may not be an example. Although you can wear thin spring clothes today, you have to bring cold clothes when walking.

The jeep is borrowed and can accommodate four people. It is just right. It sets off at 12 o'clock and goes out of the south gate of Xi'an and heads south. After passing Xingjiao Temple, it becomes the untravelled road. Climb straight up, and soon the Cuihua Mountain Peak is gradually in sight.

At the foot of Zhongnan Mountain in 1936

Cuihua is the name of a peak in Zhongnan. It is famous for its beauty. It is a famous scenic spot on the outskirts of Chang'an. There is Tianchi Temple nearby, and you can also visit Zhongnan. Since it's so close, I plan to visit it tomorrow.

2. The white-haired beauty traveled to Zhongnan

It was more than three o'clock when the car arrived at the entrance of Taiyi Palace. There were troops stationed in the palace. They negotiated with the person in charge for permission and then moved in. rest.

The style of Taiyi Palace Daoyuan still exists, but many slogans have been added. The room is small, but quite new and clean, and has screen windows and floors, which is rare here.

This was originally a remote mountain pass, the exit of Ziwukou of the ancient plank road (the author made a mistake here, the entrance and exit should be the exit of the Qinchu ancient road), and it was also the terminus of the southern suburbs bus ***, so there is We visited a small market, but the only things that could satisfy our hunger were flatbread and thick noodles.

Mr. Xia (one of the Qin people traveling with him) had a friend who lived in a nearby village. He made a special trip to visit this place as the only way to go to Tianchi Temple. He pointed out the direction and made an appointment for everyone to gather in the morning. Traveling together in this place, we will stay in Taiyi Palace.

When I got up early the next morning, there was still no one in the street. I wanted to buy a basin of water to wash my face. I knocked on several doors before buying it. After washing my face, I came out and asked a small shop to turn on the bellows and boil some eggs for breakfast. I brought a few pieces of hard and thick flatbread and started on the road.

Zhongnan Mountain 1937

After passing through a garden, a dry river with piles of rocks, and some ditches, we arrived at the cypress forest that Mr. Xia pointed out yesterday. The name of the place is Shachanglin. The whole village is hidden in the depths of Berlin. The houses are all grottoes. It is secluded and secluded, like a fairyland. I found Mr. Xia smoking a dry cigarette on the wheat field outside the cave. He introduced his friend Jiao, an old man with a white beard. But he was also very interested, so he put on his Li stick and joined our team. Lei Junnai hummed two lines of limerick: "White snow and red apricots are a wonder, white hair and red beauties travel to the south." Everyone couldn't help laughing.

Going up the mountain from the back wall of the grotto, the mountain road is still flat and there are layers on the mountainside. It's all wheat fields, flat green and lovely. As we walked, the road became wider and wider. Mr. Xia told us that in the Ming Dynasty, the Qin vassal king believed deeply in Buddhism and built a special avenue from Xi'an Dongguan directly to Tianchi Temple, commonly known as the Royal Road.

We were walking along the Imperial Road, getting higher and higher. Looking back at the Shenheyuan, we could clearly see that there were quite a few stone Buddhas lying in the ground beside the road, and there were also works from the Tang Dynasty. However, due to severe and long-term wind and sun erosion, it has returned to its original stone quality. Thousands of peaks stand in the mountains, mountain springs trickle, and one or two goshawks circle up and down in the empty valley, which is quite quiet and interesting.

3. Tianchi Temple

The mountain road suddenly turns up at a dead end. When I look up, I see a towering tower, and temples appear one after another. Tianchi Temple arrive.

Xia and Jiao went inside to discuss tea, while we sat and rested on the plateau outside.

The wind blows gently, bringing bursts of spring breath.

The sky is blue and transparent, and the pagoda in front of the temple is quite beautiful. You can also see the southern Wutai arching behind the pagoda from a distance. The scenery is dark and moving, especially a few half-open peach blossoms and a group of flowers flying around the pagoda. Wild pigeons intoxicate people with a sense of tranquil beauty.

Ms. He Zhenghuang took a photo at Tianchi Temple, 1947

The monks welcomed us in and diligently treated us with inventory and dried fruits. The temple was very large, with broken foundations and abandoned furnaces piled everywhere. It can be imagined that incense was flourishing back then, but now it is very desolate. Except for the so-called temple fairs, there seem to be not many tourists in normal times. The temple is full of thin bamboos and slender green, which is the most lively embellishment of the whole temple. We respectively Painting everywhere, the surroundings are quiet.

Have lunch in the temple, which is still called Sujie. After dinner, we choose a path to go down the mountain and go around to the foot of an abandoned pagoda. This pagoda is not liked by ordinary people because the pagoda body has fallen, especially the lower floor. The broken bricks have been piled up on the ground. They are heavy on top and light on the bottom. They are about to topple over. However, its format and structure, in its undying structure, prove that it is indeed a Tang Dynasty object. Compared with the original pagoda in front of the temple, Six or seven hundred years earlier.

After painting several paintings, the sun was setting in the west, and the mountain road was rugged, so I didn’t dare to stay for a long time. I looked for a way back to Taiyi Palace, and it was already dusk.

4. Go straight to Qingyun

On the morning of November 1, I packed up my luggage, said goodbye to the person in charge of Taiyi Palace, and went straight to Cuihua Mountain. The whole mountain is for the front travel, so the road is very wide and well built. Along the way, there are gurgling mountain springs, layers of green shade, and the scenery is very beautiful. The people I meet along the way are either soldiers or woodcutters. Only these two kinds of people are blessed to appreciate the elegance of the mountains. On the cliffs on the roadside, there are vines peeling moss, which is written many slogans.

Since it was a military area, we were not allowed to take pictures or paint. We walked to the post and asked, and found out that it was still ten miles up the road and there was no place to stay. I felt that I was disappointed, and I was afraid that I would not be able to reach a resting place tonight, so I decided to Return and turn onto the road to Nanwutai.

Zhongnan Mountain Waterfall in 1935

The path taken by the woodcutter is not as wide and flat. They are all winding paths, but there are also streams and small water birds, dotted with silence. I was already a little tired. Fortunately, Mr. Xia was in a good mood and sang local songs from Qin along the way, which made everyone laugh often and cheered up. tired.

After walking for two hours, we walked through the winding and narrow uphill steps. It seemed like an endless long staircase going straight up to the blue clouds. At first, I was sweating as I walked, and then as I climbed higher and higher, the weather suddenly changed. When it gets cold, I have to put on a coat.

We walked until dusk, then reached a towering ridge. Looking around, it was suddenly enlightening. The vast mountains were covered with light in the sunset, and they were undulating under our feet. Like the raging waves of the sea, they are so furious that they are so majestic and majestic that they make people tremble.

I suffer from anemia, and I dare not look down too much. Besides, it is already late, and there is still a four-mile uphill climb. We need to make a last effort even though we are very tired, and have no choice but to continue upward. Log in. When the snow is white, it still remains in the ravine, and the climate is even colder. But the mountain scenery is excellent, and there are pictures everywhere. On the one hand, we are nostalgic for this majestic and quiet mountain scenery, but on the other hand, we are really tired and can hardly walk. On the last section of the road, we almost have to take a rest every three steps.

After twists and turns, we walked again and again, until the last light of the day left and we were extremely tired, we arrived at a canyon. The twilight was dim, and the mountain color became darker. In the midst of panic, suddenly, Hearing the gentle sound of the evening bell and wooden fish beneath his feet, he lowered his head in search of the sound and suddenly saw a large, splendid temple, half exposed at the bottom of the valley. Incense smoke curled up and candle shadows rippled. Everyone couldn't help cheering, "Lei Jun" Jumping down first, we finally arrived at today's destination "Big Thatched Peng".

5. Big Thatch

Walking down the stone steps down the cliff valley, Mr. Resting, with a cup of tea in hand, not feeling tired, the monk lit a candle and talked while preparing dinner. Outside the window, the mountains are all peaceful, the pines are roaring, and the joy of living in the mountains is truly unforgettable in my life.

The pine forest of Zhongnan Mountain in 1906

The so-called big thatched cottage is a retreat place for monks. As early as the Tang Dynasty, monks built thatched cottages in this deep valley. From then on, the incense became more and more popular. It has been expanded to a large scale; the current palace is quite new and is specially designed to entertain pilgrims from Wutai facing south. The guest house is quite clean. Although it is in the deep mountains, the food can be served immediately. Although the appearance now has gray tiles and white walls, painted beams and lacquered columns, However, he still kept his mantle and adopted the old name of Big Thatch. Not long after he sat down to rest, Mr. Xia was already lying on the earthen bed, snoring loudly. We then went into another small guest house to sleep, holding candles.

The top of Nanwutai in 1936

I got up a little late the next morning because I was really tired from yesterday. The two gentlemen, Xia Lei and others, had already climbed up to the big platform to watch the sunrise. The so-called big platform is called Daiding, which is the highest peak of the southern Wutai. It is only half a mile away from the big thatched roof. After washing their faces, they had returned and said that today was the right time. It was slightly overcast, which was a pity at sunrise. Since breakfast was coming soon, we planned to go up early. First, stand on the edge of the cliff outside the temple and take a leisurely look. You can see clouds and waves like the sea, all around the valley. The peaks are rising out of the clouds, like countless small islands. Nearby, you can faintly see pine branches, and in the distance, it is a blur. Unable to see clearly.

Zhongnan Mountain Zhiyun Republic of China

At this time, a monk handed us a book of inspiration from Guanyin Bodhisattva, and opened the first paragraph, which is Nanwutaifu The story of the dragon was written vividly and vividly, and the monk even vividly pointed out the places such as Dragon Shuan Stone and Fulongping mentioned in the book. Originally, we did not believe this, but now we are standing on Zhongnan Mountain. On the top of the mountain, with the sea of ??clouds, bells and ancient temples in the background, listening to these stories made me feel at ease, so I listened to them as if they were real.

6. Clouds and mist on the Datai

The Datai of South Wutai in 1934 (painted by Lin San)

After breakfast, we went up to the Datai with our sticks. The snow along the way has just melted, making it difficult to walk in the mud. After about half a mile, we reach the top. This is the highest point of the five peaks. Its coolness, Manjusri, and spiritual beings are all in the eyes. The peaks seen in the morning, Everything is within one step.

The clouds are still slowly rising out of the sky, making the whole world covered behind a thick veil. Standing on the top of the platform and on the edge of the cliff, I can't help but feel silent and colorless in front of the moon, and the extremely high and desperate scene. I had something to say, but unexpectedly, after thousands of miles, today we ordinary people have a deep appreciation of the artistic conception of the emptiness of all forms.

The Sacrifice Platform at Nanwutai, Zhongnan Mountain in 1935

The clouds and fog are getting thicker and thicker, making it difficult to distinguish them at close range. What I just saw is like a series of distant peaks like small islands in the sea. At that time, they were all gone, but the white clouds were blowing against my face, and the soft dampness swept over me, and gradually became thicker. Photography and painting were unable to do so, and I was quite hesitant.

Clouds and mist on Nanwutai, 2018 (photo by Puyang Ziliang)

In fact, the most faithful drawings and photos today should be a piece of pure white paper, because everything in front of you, Except for the boundless pure daytime, no trace of shape or color can enter the picture or lens. However, this famous painting can only be engraved in my heart forever and cannot be displayed to others. No one is willing to believe that this blank piece of paper is the real thing. This is the masterpiece of this moment on the top of Zhongnan Mountain. Since painting and photography were out of the question, it would be lonely to go back to the temple for leisure, so we agreed to go down the mountain and come back another day, so we immediately returned to the big thatched hut, packed our bags, said goodbye to the monks, and set off together to go down the mountain by another way.

Unexpectedly, within a few dozen steps, the clouds turned into drizzle and fell one after another. We thought at first that it turned into rain due to the cold weather in the mountains, but at the bottom of the mountain it might still be clouds, and we continued to move forward, but the rain gradually began to fall. The mountain path was getting denser and slippery, and the leaves were all wet. It was quite difficult to walk on the paved mountain path, and no one had anything to protect them from the rain, so they had no choice but to let it get wet. The sound of rain became louder and filled the empty valley with the sound of rain.

I have always been fascinated by the realm of "empty valley, spiritual rain", and I encountered it accidentally today, and I am truly happy. However, his fur coat was all wet, his shoes and socks were soaked, and the rainwater had entered his neck with his hair. He looked like a drowned rat in a miserable state. He also saw that Old Xia's bald head was exposed to the rain and was unusually shiny, which made people laugh and cry.

7. Got this good opportunity

Finally, I found a small nunnery on the side of the road, with the words "Purple Bamboo Forest" written on the gate. Overjoyed, Mr. Lei went up the steps and knocked on the door, but there was no answer after a long knock. Mr. Xia pushed hard and found that the door was not bolted. Because they all went in, they walked through the bamboo path in the rain to find a shelter. After a while, a blind nun came out. Answer: The nunnery does not accept guests inwardly, but a few steps downhill, there is a Sansheng Palace, which is specially designed to receive visitors from the mountains.

We left in a hurry, so we went downhill in the rain again. When we turned around in a valley, we saw a temple. We went to knock on the door, and a Taoist priest came out. Although he was not an immortal, he allowed us to stay overnight. Shigure The sound became more urgent and the whole valley was dark. We felt as if we had met a savior, and we were so happy that we couldn't describe it.

When we entered the Sansheng Palace, we found that the windows were bright and clean, and it was spotless. We were ashamed to say that we were too lazy to enter the guest room. We first sat down on the outer corridor, calmed down, and waited for the little Taoist priest to light the fire. After drinking water, everyone took turns changing into mud shoes and wet socks. Mr. Xia also changed into a pair of boots and entered the guest room one after another.

Cangsong Ancient Temple in Zhongnan Mountain, 1936

The guest rooms are small and exquisite, elegantly decorated. There are simple fruit boxes on the table, apricot blossoms in bloom in the bottles, and on the wall. In a strange couplet, we each sat down (one by one), with a large window and thin curtains, hot tea and dried fruits, pouring in from the heavy rain. Unexpectedly, we got this wonderful encounter, which was extremely gratifying.

The scenery outside the window is changing rapidly, like a dreamland. At this time, with a cup of tea in hand, the sound of rain filling my ears, Yun and Lei Jun each spread out their paper to paint a picture.

The Taoist priest prepared dinner with several plates of pickles and a bowl of soft noodles. It was quite delicious. After dinner, he listened to Mr. There was talk, and everyone's laughter matched the mountain rain outside the window. They were ready to wake up to the excitement. At night, they cut the candles and fell asleep. Yesterday in the monk's house, today in the Taoist temple, I didn't realize that I was laughing.

The cliffs and pines of Zhongnan Mountain in 1936

It rained continuously all night. When I woke up early, I saw that the nearby mountains were washed with bright colors. The rivers and farmhouses at the foot of the mountains were gradually visible, but the mountains in the distance were not visible. Still in the vast whiteness, the rain gradually turned into snow, flying all over the mountains, and the weather became colder. We looked at each other, not in a hurry. But encountering snow while traveling to the south is probably a good story in my future memories.

The ancient temple in Zhongnan Mountain in 1934 (painted by Lin San)

But we had to be left behind. The snow flakes were large and dense, and soon all the mountains were white. In the clear white sky, you can distinguish distant rivers, gray cliff valleys, fresh green fields and pine trees, first-level mountain roads, and occasionally you can see a corner of Wangsi. The scenery is quite beautiful, and everyone can enjoy it while enjoying it. I also painted many paintings.

When we got tired of painting in the afternoon, the Taoist priest took out a chess set. The snow was still snowing. Everyone played chess for fun. The Taoist priest brought out the Tao Te Ching and the Yin Fu Jing. Bones, unable to understand the great transformation of the Tao, I had to put it aside. This Taoist priest has an appearance of being a guest, and he never bothers others. He always entertains us just right, which makes me dissatisfied with Taoist priests. One change.

8. Exploring the way down the mountain

It was another day. I woke up early in the morning, opened the window and looked out. The snow was about a foot deep, but the sky was as blue as azure and it was sunny. Everyone decided to repack their bags. , exploring the way down the mountain, before leaving, I felt a sense of dependence on the elegant Taoist temple and the friendly Taoist priests. The Taoist sent them out of the mountain gate and gave each of them a Zhongnan bamboo stick for pulling out snow.

The snow was shin-deep, making it difficult to walk. Everyone became an expedition team, especially as we got further down the mountain, the weather became warmer and the snow was melting, making it extremely slippery.

Further down, the snow gradually thinned out, and the sun radiated more heat. Our shoes and socks, which turned from walking in the snow to water, gradually dried out again.

Beneath Zhongnan Mountain, March 8, 1914

When we arrived at the foot of the mountain, it was a wonderful sunny day. It was very inconsistent with the description of our group, and we ourselves didn’t seem to believe it. Those who came just now in the strong wind and thick snow looked up at the Zhongnan Peak and saw a rugged area. The big thatch and Sanqing Palace had long been sealed in the depths of the white clouds. If it were not for the clear stick in the hand, it would be really difficult. You would think it was an elegant dream.

This article is exclusively compiled and published by "Zhongnanshan Story"