Almalek: Apricot Blossom Village hidden by glaciers and snowy peaks

Nanzi

The Pamir Plateau is famous for its cold, desolate and desolate scenery. If we go deep into it in early spring, we will be surprised to find that there is a green oasis belt in the valley, and those long-dormant trees are full of white or pink apricot flowers. The nearly 300 kilometers long Tashkurgan River Valley forms a spectacular corridor of almond blossoms every spring. Almalek Village in Tartajik Township is an ideal place to view Pamir almond blossoms.

In the spring of 2017, I traveled with Hao Pei and several other Xinjiang photographers to Akto County, Kizilsu Kirgiz Autonomous Prefecture, and visited Almalek Village to visit apricot flowers.

The flowers bloom early in front of the house, and we are busy visiting relatives and friends. Hepei Photography

The road to Almalek Village is full of dangers. Due to the impact of mudslides, the road that was blocked and repaired was very bumpy. Along the way, the scorching sun was dazzling, and my eyes were so dry that I had to blink and blink. Just when I was about to close them, a feast of apricot blossoms miraculously appeared in front of me, and clusters of dense mist-like flower clusters warmly greeted me. We come. Then, the stone house appeared, and a woman with a dark face and a high nose looked at us in front of the door. At this time, the wind carried the smell of snow from the nearby ridges, and the petals of the almond trees in front of the door fell like spring rain—the village of Almalek arrived.

After hearing the news, the villagers gathered around us, and adults and children helped us carry our luggage. For the past two days, we were staying at Kadel's house. I gave the old man sugar cubes and tea leaves, and he put the best dried apricots, almond tea, and naan cakes on a small wooden table to entertain us.

Almalek Village is located in a river valley and has a warm climate. The apricot flowers here bloom at different altitudes around March 25. Generally speaking, places with low mountains bloom first than places with high mountains. This is caused by the difference in temperature. Old trees bloom before new trees. What is the reason? Friends joked that maybe flowering is an ancient skill, and old trees master it more skillfully and better than new trees.

I suddenly discovered that this spring scene seemed to be in sharp contrast with the gray-black mountains, the ice tongues hanging from the peaks, and the cold and cold environment. Isn't it a miracle given by God that there is such a paradise on earth under the arrogant and cold cliffs of China's West Pole?

Here, the bark of the old apricot trees is thicker, the wood is hard and deep, the wood grain is as clear and colorful as tiger skin, the trunk is gray-brown, full of cracks, and bent like a python. Each tree is different and very different. It is difficult to find a tree trunk that is slightly straighter. But even such an inconspicuous tree does not occupy a piece of fertile land, but it rushes to a vigorous date with spring every year. The apricot flower buds that seem to be open but not open are red, the half-opened stamens are pink, and the apricot flowers in full bloom are white with pink, without any blemishes. When an almond tree suddenly emerges from the jungle beside the road, it will wrap people up in it without any explanation. It is in such a desolate stage that Xinghua brings a touch of warmth and intoxicates the visiting guests.

The apricot blossom season in Almalek Village is very short, only about 10 days. It rushes from a passionate flower to the fruit at a burning speed. In July, when the apricots turn a transparent yellow, you can even see the flowing, honey-like syrup through the tight skin.

Apricot flowers and embroidery are suitable for both inside and outside. Hepei Photography

Unfortunately, fresh apricots are very seasonal and are the most difficult fruit to store. When the apricot fruit is green on the branches, people cook it in polenta and noodle soup to get its sour taste to make the food taste better. In the season when apricots are ripe, the ripe apricots fall to the ground with crackling sounds. Under each apricot tree, there is a golden patch. The old man and the children pick them up with buckets, and pour the uneaten apricots on the roof to dry them. In this way, it can be preserved until next year to connect with the fresh fruits of the next season. At this time, apricots are of course the easiest snack for the villagers in Almalek Village. Every child will have a few apricots or dried apricots in his pocket, as if the love of apricots is downward, and there is an old man's love. And compassion is inside

The spring scenery knows no distance, and you can reach the cold mountains when you go out. Hepei Photography

In the village of Almalek, the almond tree is the beloved tree of childhood for children, and it is also a natural playground for selfless play. Their way of playing is improvised and innate. of. Under the apricot tree, there are traces of children's childhood games and naughty and cheerful thoughts everywhere. They ran, chased and jumped under the almond tree; they poured some water on the stone, grinded the apricot kernel into a small opening and took out the almond, which turned into an apricot whistle; they climbed to the highest point of the almond tree, and their whole body Hanging on the treetops, with almond blossom pollen on their faces and bodies, their ears are red, their eyes are wide open, looking into the distance, trying to fill their bodies with wonder at nature.

To the locals, an almond tree is a growing mineral deposit. What a person takes from an almond tree is actually the generosity, gifts, and gifts of an almond tree.

At dusk the next day, the air was slightly cold, and we took a walk at the head of Almalek Village. Along the way, the canyon is windy and the clearings are green wheat fields. The few sheep came home late in twos and threes, and the donkeys walked slowly on the dirt road as if there was no one around.

The wind on the plateau blew by, and the apricot blossoms were like rain, and the fallen flowers were colorful. Just when I raised my head, I was once again shocked by the blooming flowers of the vast apricot trees all over the mountains and fields. In this village of Almalek, which is about 2,400 meters above sea level, there are more than a thousand almond trees with a history of more than 100 years. They are generally more than ten meters high, and some trunks are 50 to 60 centimeters in diameter. Under the cover of these tall almond trees, local "blue geli" (traditional houses) are scattered here and there. The color of apricot blossoms suddenly flowed out of the sky.

Having lived in Xinjiang for many years, my biggest regret is that I could not live quietly in Almalek Village for a year and a half, recording the details of their lives from spring to winter. I even want to be a part of it, guarding the apricot trees day and night, gazing at the white snow on the Pamir peaks in ecstasy. At the same time, I realized that it would be difficult for me to integrate into their lives and even destroy the peace there. Perhaps we will never be able to form their innate sense of understanding with the plateau.

One early morning, we decided to say goodbye to Xinghua Village. During this period, the slight chill of early spring on the plateau ferments together with the silence of the entire village. The morning light shone slantingly, and Kader's wife was spraying water to clean the door.

A gust of wind from the plateau blew by, and the apricot blossoms rained down all over the sky. She just took the trouble to sweep out the morning light in the wind and dust...

There is no way out in the mountains, but there are bright flowers in every village. Photographed