How to set up the camera correctly, and what are the setting skills?

Have you ever made such a setup mistake in photography? Check these six settings of the camera and follow the following custom tips to enhance the photo quality and improve the professional photography level.

1. White balance

Most photos are taken in automatic white balance mode. This is a simple choice, which is reasonable in most cases, but it is not optional for 100%.

Generally, the white balance system tends to correct the natural color deviation of bright areas to make the image appear too cold. For example, warm sunshine will become too cold in the morning or at night.

When shooting outdoors, in many cases, the best effect can be obtained by using sunshine or sunshine mode. They can even provide better results than automatic settings in cloudy or cloudy conditions.

Most cameras also offer a "shadow" or "cloudy" white balance option to add a little warmth to the image.

In some cases, this color shift may be too large. However, it is worth trying to do experiments with the camera to understand how each white balance setting works under different conditions.

For maximum control, please use the custom manual of white balance and set the value manually.

The camera manual will tell you the exact operation method, but this method is based on shooting a white or neutral gray target (a piece of cardboard is enough) in the same light as the subject, and using this image to set the white balance. ... after manually setting the white balance, you should see it become neutral when you shoot a white card or a gray card again.

If you like, you can use the white balance of the camera to set "preheating" or "cooling" the photos. You can try to use a non-neutral calibration target.

Step 2 be clear

Most digital cameras allow you to adjust the sharpness applied when processing JPEG images.

Some photographers think that the maximum setting is the best choice because it will produce the clearest image. However, this is not always effective, and high-contrast edges (such as a clear horizon) may be cut off and become too sharp.

In contrast, using the minimum value will cause small details to appear a little fuzzy. However, this is usually better than sharp edges.

The best way to get good results is to apply sharpening carefully, sharpening image by image gradually until the ideal effect is obtained, or at least use the intermediate distance setting for most shots.

Step 3: autofocus

Many photographers allow their cameras to set the focus automatically to achieve faster and more comfortable shooting. However, most cameras assume that the main target of the photo is the nearest object and it is close to the center of the picture.

Although it will produce good results in most cases, if your subject is eccentric and there are many objects around, the camera may not focus correctly.

The solution is to control the autofocus point. The camera manual will clearly indicate which mode to choose, but it is usually called single-point autofocus or autofocus selection.

After setting the correct mode, please use the camera's navigation controls to select the autofocus point on the target in the box.

In some cases, it may be found that the autofocus point is not consistent with the desired object. In this case, focusing and recombination techniques should be used. To do this, just select the central autofocus point (usually the most sensitive), and then move the camera to aim at the subject. Then, tap the shutter button to focus the camera on the lens. Now, put your finger on the shutter and make a composition. When you are satisfied with the composition, press the shutter button completely to take a picture.

4.Flash synchronization

By default, the camera is set to flash at the beginning of exposure. This does not cause problems when the shutter speed or the object and/or camera are stationary. However, exposing or moving objects for a long time can lead to strange results.

The problem is that the clear version exposed correctly will bring out the ghost of the subject, blur the image and give people the feeling that the object is moving in the opposite direction.

If you use the camera (or flash) menu and enable the flash synchronization function (post-synchronization) on the second curtain, you can easily get rid of this situation, which will make the flash light up at the end of exposure. Then, the motion of any object will be recorded as the blur in the back instead of the blur in the front, which will make the image more natural and really emphasize the speed of motion.

5. Long-time exposure noise reduction

The noise reduction function can compare the main image with the black box and "subtract" its noise to get the final photo. For the "black frame", the exposure time will be exactly the same as the main image, except that the shutter will not open and the light will not reach the sensor. The idea is to record the non-random noise caused by the change of pixel sensitivity and make it visible under low-speed shutter.

In this way, when using the noise reduction function, it takes almost twice as long to record an image, which is especially annoying for long exposure.

Nevertheless, the noise reduction effect is worth looking forward to, and the most reliable method is to use the built-in noise reduction system of the camera.

6. Long exposure

Many aspiring photographers overestimate their ability to hold the camera steady, so the shooting quality is high at a relatively low shutter speed.

When using a full-frame camera for clear hand-held shooting, the usual rule of thumb is to use the shutter speed of at least one second divided by the focal length of the lens. This means that if you shoot with a 100mm lens, the shutter speed must be at least1100 s.

Considering the cropping factor (the factor of increasing the focal length), this rule can be adjusted to suit DX cameras. For example, the 100mm lens of APS-C sensor (such as Canon EOS 700D) used in SLR digital camera (DSLR for short) has a cropping factor of 1.6. So to take a clear picture, the shutter speed should be at least1160 s.

The standard exposure ratio used by modern camera shutters is a fraction of a second: short exposure will reduce the molecules, and the exposure rate is expressed by the denominator:1100→100; 1/250→250, and so on.

Nowadays, many photographic lenses and some cameras have built-in anti-shake systems. This can speed up the shutter speed when shooting by hand.

In addition, some lenses can provide exposure compensation up to 4eV, which enables you to further reduce the shutter speed from1125 to116.