How does Canon 5d2 customize the short film start key to the shutter key?

The default is to press SET in the middle of the back turntable to stop or start video shooting.

I'll give you the experience of a netizen setting up 5D2. Take a look.

Shooting mode button

Unlike Nikon, 5D2 has a specially designed button that can quickly change the shooting mode. Nikon D300 and D3 also have shooting modes such as "standard", "portrait" and "scenery", but it is not as convenient as this button, with fewer steps and more convenient to use.

There is also C 1-C3 customization on the mode disk.

This is an old tradition of Canon, which has existed since I used Canon's small digital S50. It's very convenient to use, and I don't need to turn on the LCD often. Save electricity and time. For example, I often use black-and-white photos, which can be assigned to C 1 in black-and-white mode. When you want to take black-and-white photos in the future, just set the mode to C 1.

15. Live view function

The live view function is nothing new, but what I want to say is the difference between 5D2 and Nikon D3 and D300 in this respect. First of all, the 5D2 real scene is more convenient to use, whether in handheld mode or tripod mode. Secondly, 5D2 live view can realize "exposure simulation", that is to say, when taking a view, you can directly see the light or dark effect after the adjustment of exposure compensation on the LCD screen, which is convenient for you to master the correct exposure.

Third, the menu part:

After pressing the 5D2 menu button, nine columns of menus will be displayed on the LCD. Now, let's discuss it from left to right one by one.

The first column of the menu:

1. Image quality

This is the setting that makes me feel most different from Nikon. Because Nikon SLR has a fixed image quality setting, 5D2 can set RAW and JPG respectively. There are four original options: Unused, Original, sRAW 1 and sRAW2. My choice is RAW, because this is a habit I have developed since I first started using Canon S50.

In addition, I won't choose to use sRAW 1 and sRAW2, because after using these two items, although the storage space is saved, the number of pixels is reduced, and the image size of RAW becomes 386 1×2574 and 2784× 1856, and the JPG or TIF of DPP resolution is as big as that, unless you interpolate. But why should I take a 2 1 10,000-pixel camera as a 1 10,000-pixel machine or even a 5 million-pixel machine? It is understandable to say that sRAW format can improve the speed of continuous shooting, but this is not the case, so I don't understand the more special significance of these two formats.

Note: Many people on the Internet have had a lot of in-depth discussions about this sRAW format, and the conclusion is that shooting with this sRAW format at high sensitivity will have better image quality. I tried it, but I didn't find the effect they said, or to say the least, it might be a little effective, but I couldn't see it.

As for the option of JPG format, I will always use the biggest option, that is, the option with the best picture quality, because the picture quality is the most important to me.

Note: The problems of three RAW formats are complicated. I won't repeat the discussion in my other post here: Starting Jani's Double major: My feelings about using Canon 5D Mark II.

2. Prompt tone: On

I like the sound prompt when focusing.

3. No card release shutter: Off

Because choosing off can prevent you from forgetting to install the memory card, because if you don't install the memory card, there will be a flashing CF letter to remind you where the aperture value is displayed on the shoulder screen.

4. Image confirmation time: Off

I don't like to play photos from the LCD immediately after taking pictures. When I want to watch it, I will press the play button myself.

5. Ambient light correction: On

To put it bluntly, it is to eliminate the role of dark corners. One of the advanced features of 5D2 is that there are a lot of data of Canon lenses in the camera, which can automatically eliminate the intensity of dark corners. Of course, the memory of the camera is limited, so it is impossible to put all the data of more than 100 Canon lenses in it, but don't worry, you can add the lens data you need through the EOS utility software provided randomly.

The second column of the menu:

1. exposure compensation /AEB

I found that adjusting the exposure compensation in this way is exactly the same as adjusting the exposure compensation through the body buttons and speed control dial. I don't know what's more secret, or this item on the menu will be a bit snake-footed.

Note: A friend told me in his reply after reading this post that the adjustment range of these two exposure compensations is different. It can only be adjusted within the range of plus or minus 2 through the power switch+large dial, but the adjustment range can be expanded to plus or minus 4 through the menu. I followed his prompt and entered the menu to practice. But unfortunately, even if I adjust through the menu, I can only adjust the exposure compensation within the range of plus or minus 2. I wonder if this guy has confused AEB (that is, automatic bracketing exposure setting) with exposure compensation. There are graphic prompts in the menu, telling you to turn the speed control dial to adjust the exposure compensation, and turn the main dial to change the range of automatic exposure. The range of automatic bracketing exposure can reach plus or minus 4, but exposure compensation and AEB are two different things, don't make a mistake.

2. White balance

The adjustment result through the menu is the same as that through the body button, but it seems that it is impossible to set the specific color temperature value through the body button.

3. Customize white balance

The method is as described in the manual, and rap is not needed.

4. White Balance Offset/Surround

These are also two settings.

The first is the white balance shift, which is global. At first, I didn't adjust this option. Later, I found that the film made by 5D2 was a little cold. I liked things with warmer colors, so I adjusted the white balance shift to the right by one grid, that is, A 1, which made the film very popular with me.

The second is to set the white balance surround. This is a very common function on SLR, just read the manual.

5. Color space

There is nothing to say. After the film was finished, I just put it on the screen and didn't ask for anything, so I chose sRGB.

6. Photo style

It's no different from the mode key on the camera. It seems to be a snake foot, too. Please let me know if you find anything new.

7. Dust removal data

This function is similar to Nikon's, but I haven't used it yet. After a period of use, it is proved that the dust removal function of 5D2 fuselage is very effective, and it seems that this function is not needed.

The third column of the menu:

One * * * has five items: image protection, rotation, image deletion, printing instruction and transmission instruction. Like the playback menu of most cameras, it is mostly operational and has nothing to set.

The fourth column of the menu:

1. Highlight warning: off.

If you don't turn it off, there will always be flashing white flowers, which is very uncomfortable. Open it if you want, but to be honest, I never read it. Someone told me in the reply that if so, I can only stay at the amateur level forever. However, I don't want to be a professional, so I feel at ease.

2. Display focus: On

I like to see if I focus on the right place when I play back, so I think it is very useful to open it. If anyone hates this red dot, turn it off.

3. Display histogram: brightness

That is, the black and white histogram. In fact, I prefer to look directly at the photo itself, so I don't look at the histogram much, let alone the color RGB. I don't watch it for the same reason that I turned off the highlight warning on it.

4. Slide show (operation command, not setting)

Use the main dial for image jump: 10.

Just use the default settings. Actually, it's not very useful to me either. I just play back the one or two I just took once in a while when I need it (for example, to see if it is empty).

The fifth column of the menu:

1. Automatic power off; 1 min

I like this function very much, and I think 1 minute is also appropriate. Anyway, if you want to shoot again, just press the shutter halfway.

2. Automatic rotation: On

So that when you shoot vertically, the playback picture is horizontal, and you have to turn the fuselage in one direction.

3. Format (operation command)

Whether it's a new card or an old card, I have to format it before each use. Someone borrowed it and returned it to me. I have to reformat it. What if I am infected with the virus?

4. Document number: continuous

No matter what kind of SLR I have, I set it like this. The advantage of this is that you can know how many times your camera has pressed the shutter from the folder number and file number.

5. Select a folder

Operation command, but if there are other photos in your CF card, such as JPG taken by Nikon camera, you just need to select them here and watch them through LCD.

The sixth column of the menu:

1.LCD brightness

There are two items: automatic brightness and manual brightness. I found that the automatic brightness is sometimes very dark, so I'm not used to it, so I put it on the manual and turn it to the right.

2. Date, time/language

I adjusted it once when I bought the machine. In the future, unless the internal clock is very inaccurate, I will enter this option to readjust. The clock accuracy of 5D2 is not bad, but I adjusted it several times later, mainly when recording the track with external GPS. At this time, the internal time should be accurately adjusted to the standard time obtained by GPS from the satellite.

3. Video format: PAL

I live and work in Chinese mainland. Of course, TV is in PAl format. But so far, I haven't seen my photo on TV.

Clean sensor

There are three options: automatic, manual and immediate. Since there is an automatic function, I will definitely use the automatic function, which is to clean it up before turning it on and off. In addition, I found that if your camera has been turned off automatically, it will not clean automatically when you turn the switch to the off position again.

5. Real-time display/short film function setting

Real-time display is LCD framing or real-time framing, and you don't need to put your eyes on the viewfinder (if you use this function, the viewfinder will be black). This function is very useful for macro shooting, because the depth of field is very shallow when macro shooting, which can be enlarged and easy to focus accurately.

When shooting a video clip, you can't use the viewfinder to view the scene, but only use the real-time display function.

There are many settings for this option. One * * *, seven items, there are options in the options. It's dizzy at first sight. You really need to read the instructions carefully before using it.

1) Real-time display function setting: On

If you often use LCD to take pictures or use the short film shooting function, it will be convenient to set it to on. Just press the "real-time display" button. There are also options for "still images only" and "still images plus short films". My setting is the latter. Anyway, the shutter is used to take pictures, and the setting key is used to shoot videos, which do not interfere with each other.

There are also two options for shooting still pictures, namely "still image display" and "exposure simulation". I choose the latter, because then you can see the effect directly from the LCD when you make exposure compensation.

2) Grid line display: off

I choose yes or no, because the grid lines on the LCD are too thick and look messy. However, I like this grid line in the viewfinder, but it would be a pity to change the focus screen.

3) Silent shooting: mode 1

If you want to shoot a short film and take pictures at the same time, it is definitely not possible to record the shutter sound, especially when recording with the microphone on the fuselage, the solid sound transmission is more powerful. Therefore, these two mute methods are both to reduce the sound of the shutter.

4) Photometric timer: 16 seconds

No need to change, I think 16 seconds is enough.

5) autofocus mode: fast mode

There are fast mode, real-time mode and face priority mode. I only choose the fast mode because the focus speed is faster.

6) Turn off the recording size of the video: 1920× 1080.

Since it is a high-definition specification, it is estimated that I will definitely not use 640×480.

7) Recording: On

I don't like silent movies. But it is best to use an external microphone, otherwise the mechanical noise of the camera itself will be recorded.

The seventh column of the menu:

1. battery information

You can see how old and new the battery is, how much power it has, and how many times the shutter has been pressed. There are also registered batteries, and up to six batteries can be registered. I only have two batteries. I registered and saw different serial numbers of the batteries. Besides, I don't find this function has any greater practical value.

2. Information button

Basically, the information in the viewfinder and shoulder screen is displayed in LCD.

3. External flash control

I don't have a Canon flash yet. Nikon's SB800 doesn't seem to work on 5D2. I don't know how to set this option properly.

4. Camera user settings

At first glance, I really don't know what these words mean. The initial idea is to save your current settings to C 1, C2 or C3 on the "beer bottle cap". The so-called "registration" is to save the current settings. Canon especially likes to use the word "registration". I don't know why.

Clear settings

There are three items in it: clear all camera settings, clear copyright information and display copyright information.

1) "Clear all camera settings" means to restore the camera to the factory default state. See page 45 of the manual for specific default values.

2) "Clearing copyright information" means clearing the photographer, owner and other information that can be put into the image Exif from the camera.

However, it should be noted that 5D2 is different from Nikon D3 or D300. This information cannot be directly added to the camera, but must be added to the camera through the attached software. For example, I just open EOS utility software first, then connect the computer and camera with USB cable, and add photos of Monty Tiger Fish through the software. In this way, when I shoot any film with this camera, my lines will be on it. And "clearing copyright information" means clearing this information. But I don't know what's necessary. Is it necessary for someone to lend me a camera to use this function? Because he didn't want to leave a picture of Monty Tiger Fish on his film.

3) "Display copyright information" is a photo of the giant salamander displayed in my camera. Let everyone set it according to their own ideas.

6. Firmware version

It is used to upgrade firmware. I used it once, that is, firmware upgrade to eliminate black spots. Otherwise, just check the firmware version number of your current fuselage.

The eighth column of the menu:

This menu is the most complicated and interesting part of all the settings. In Canon's own words: customize the camera. A * * * has four parts, and each part has 4-8 options. These options need to be carefully studied.

The first part, exposure: C. Fn I(***7 sub-items)

1. Exposure increment: 1/3 level, because I like to adjust it more finely.

2.ISO sensitivity increment: 1/3, for the same reason.

3.ISO sensitivity expansion: On. Because if you don't open it, sometimes you need to use the sensitivity of ISO50 or 6400 or above, which feels awkward.

4. Automatic cancellation of exposure envelope: ON. I don't like the exposure surround set last time, even if the camera is turned off and turned on, because exposure surround is not commonly used after all.

5. Exposure order: I changed it to the order of-0+, which is completely my habit.

6. Safety offset: On. I opened it as soon as I saw the benefits in the manual. The instructions are vague about what a safety deviation is, so here is a supplementary explanation.

What is a safe offset?

Users can control the aperture or shutter speed according to their own intentions by choosing aperture priority or shutter priority. However, due to the different brightness of the surrounding shooting environment, it is sometimes impossible to obtain appropriate exposure.

For example, outdoor in clear Wan Li, a large aperture lens with the maximum aperture of f/ 1.4 is used to shoot people at full aperture, and the aperture priority automatic exposure mode is adopted. When the aperture value is selected as f/ 1.4, the camera will increase the shutter speed to get proper exposure, but sometimes even if the shutter speed reaches the highest, it still cannot be exposed correctly, because in this case, overexposure will occur. Using the safety offset function can effectively avoid this kind of problem. When using aperture priority automatic exposure or shutter priority automatic exposure, if the user's settings can't get proper exposure, the safety offset function will force the corresponding settings to change to avoid exposure deviation. This is a very useful function. Canon mid-range digital SLR and above have this function, and users can choose to turn this function on or off through the custom function menu. It is an essential function for users who want to use the aperture priority automatic exposure or shutter priority automatic exposure function to shoot and want to avoid improper exposure.

7. Flash synchronization speed in aperture priority mode: I can only understand it after I have Canon flash.

Part II, Image: C. Fn II(***4 sub-projects)

1. Long exposure and mania reduction function: automatic. The reason is that I think it's too easy, and it's also because I seldom spend too much time on exposure.

2. High ISO sensitivity and manic reduction function: standard. I think this must be a compromise between detail preservation and noise elimination.

3. Highlight Tone Priority: Off.

I think this is a function that Nikon doesn't have at present, which is somewhat similar to the concept of dynamic range on Fuji S5. It's certainly useful in preserving highlights, but I don't understand that ISO with a minimum of 200 can only be used at this time. Besides, I gave it a rough try, and it had a certain effect. For the specific comparison chart, please refer to my 5D2 experience sticker.

4. Automatic brightness optimization: off.

This function is similar to Nikon's D light. I like films with strong contrast, and the dark details will not be opened unless they are particularly needed.

Part III, autofocus/drive: C. Fn III(***8 sub-projects)

1. lens drive when autofocus is not available: focus search is on.

According to the instructions, it is particularly convenient to turn off when using a telephoto lens that is easy to defocus. I didn't have such a telephoto lens, so I chose to turn it on.

2. Lens autofocus stop button function

First of all, we must understand what is the "lens autofocus stop button", otherwise it is meaningless to study this option.

Canon also recognized this point, so it specifically stated under this option in the manual that "only telephoto is lenses are equipped with autofocus stop buttons", suggesting that this option is only effective for this specific button on this lens.

I don't have this kind of "telephoto is lens", so there is no need to set any options here, because the setting is useless, because you don't have this hardware at all. For example, there is no external flash installed on your camera at all, but you desperately press the button on the 5D2 body to try to set the flash exposure compensation. What can be achieved except in vain?

Someone read my post "My Feeling of Using Canon 5D Mark II" and found that I said in it "I can't simply press the shutter to lock the focus and exposure functions at the same time", and then more than N people questioned me. Some people say that 5D2 will definitely work, some people say that 5D2 is estimated to work, and some people say that 5D2 should work. Someone told me in an educational tone: read the instructions several times! One of the most honest people is to tell me directly who I am looking for in the manual. However, the basis he told me was the second item in C. Fn III, so let me choose "2". Automatic exposure lock "Press it. Unfortunately, this friend didn't understand what he meant when he said, "Press this button to lock the automatic exposure ...". The "button" here is the button on "telephoto is lens", not the shutter button! And my question is how to lock exposure and focus at the same time by half pressing the shutter. I told him that what you said was two different things, but he still insisted on his point of view and said that I didn't read the instructions carefully. Finally, I was really helpless. I can only say that you'd better read the instructions, especially to find out what the instructions below "2" are. Automatic exposure lock "means.

3. Use the multi-function control button to select directly.

As mentioned above, I find this setting very convenient to use. Just press the autofocus selection button to set the focus on the autofocus point, then press the multifunction control button vertically to select the center focus point, and then press this button obliquely in eight directions to select the other eight focus points.

4. Overlay display: On

The four sub-expressions of "overlay display" are too vague. In fact, it refers to whether you see the red focus in the viewfinder. I like to see the right focus, so I turned it on.

5. Auto-focus auxiliary flash

It doesn't make sense to me, because there is no auxiliary focusing light on the fuselage, so I have to buy an external flash. If I buy an external flash, I will turn on this option, because sometimes this auxiliary light is very useful in dim light.

6. Mirror pre-lifting: Off

As for whether it is on or off, it depends on what you are shooting. If I take a macro shot on the shelf, I will turn it on and release it by cable or remote control to minimize the vibration and ensure the picture is clear.

7. AF point area expansion: On

This option is only valid for artificial intelligence servo autofocus. Although I don't shoot moving objects very much, I still turn it on because all I have to do is switch the focus mode.

8. Auto focus fine tuning

This is specially used to deal with out-of-focus lenses. I have five L heads at present, and I haven't found them out of focus yet, so I don't need them yet.

Part IV, Business/Others: C. Fn IV(***6 sub-items)

1. shutter button/autofocus start button

I choose metering+autofocus, because this is the best way for the camera to shoot. I didn't choose 3 because I really don't like the feeling that the shutter doesn't respond when it is half pressed, because after it is set to 3, you must press AF-ON to focus first, and then press the shutter to expose.

In addition, a friend replied that you can set it like this first, and then save it to C 1 or other two locations, so you can rotate the bottle cap when using it. I thought about it and thought it was a really good idea, but I still won't use it like this because of my habit.

2. Auto focus start/auto exposure lock button switch: Off

I'm quite used to the position of these two buttons, and I don't think it's necessary to do the opposite.

3. Specify the set button: Normal.

Because I don't want to give the SET button any other functions. Some people like to set it to change the picture quality. I don't need it because I never change it.

Dial direction in 4.TV/AV setting: reverse direction.

This is a habit problem, because I am used to turning right to increase the aperture.

5. Focus screen: a

I can only choose A, because 5D2 doesn't equip you with that kind of focusing screen with a grid, so you should be careful when shooting scenery in the future, because without a grid, it is easy to have a tilt of the field of vision. But changing the focus screen will definitely cost extra money. At this point, Nikon D200 and D300 have done a good job, with an option to turn the grid on or off without changing the focus screen.

6. Add original inspection data: Close.

There is a simple reason. I didn't buy the "OSK-E3 original data security package" software. Even if I open it, it's useless without software to verify the film.

The ninth column (last column) of the menu: register "My Menu"

When you buy a machine, turn on this option, and there is only one line in it: My menu settings. After you enter this business, you can do other things according to your own needs.

The convenience of this option is that you can put the commonly used menu options here as needed, so you don't have to look for them one by one in each menu item in the future.

For example, my current setting is like this, very simple. I only chose four items: 1. Format; 2. High notes are preferred; 3. Automatic brightness is preferred; 4. The reflector is pre-lifted. Anyway, this item is freely set according to your needs and can be changed at any time in the future.